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How to protect the paint? Varnish? Which one?

Old 06-02-2008, 08:27 PM
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Default How to protect the paint? Varnish? Which one?

I'm finishing the paiting process, Humbrol and Revell enamel paints for the deck, cabin and hull, using an airbrush.

After years of (mostly Krylon) spray paints and house varnishes, now I really don't know what to use to protect the paint (from water and UV).

I'm afraid that house varnish will attack the Humbrol or Revell enamel. Is there any model-intended varnish or gloss that can be applied over the enamels protecting them without damaging the paint? And it has to be capable of being airbrushed (properly thinned).


Old 06-03-2008, 10:32 AM
Steve Collins
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Default RE: How to protect the paint? Varnish? Which one?

Use an automotive gloss clearcoat (not the stuff that comes in spray cans).

I had my doubts about its compatibility with enamels and other types of paint. I recently painted a helicopter canopy with a combination of enamels, lacquer, and even a water based acrylic. I used DuPont Chromaclear gloss clearcoat and it had no adverse effect on any of the paints I used.
Old 06-11-2008, 08:11 PM
Dreamin Hemi
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Default RE: How to protect the paint? Varnish? Which one?

Clearcoat would work very well like mentioned above
Old 06-12-2008, 05:34 PM
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Default RE: How to protect the paint? Varnish? Which one?

First off auto clears (urethanes) don't play nice with enamels. There is a great deal to learn and understand before you use them. They must be used within certain windows (time frames) or you will have to deal with delamination, orange peel, or wrinkling of the base coats. Also the catalysts used are toxic and a proper respirator is needed for your protection along with good ventilation. I don't mean to scare you but it takes knowledge and practice for good results. I agree that they are the best choice but an airbrush is not big enough so you will need a detail gun and compressor that provides enough cfm's. You can use it to cover enamels but you will need an intercoat (base without pigment). Once this is dry you will have to scuff it with a red scotchbrite pad then shoot a dry or mist coat of clear. followed with 2-3 medium wet coats - the clear needs to tack up before the next coat or you could end up with severe solvent pop (this happens when the surface dries before the solvents have evaporated). The reducers are temp rated so use the one for the temps you are in and watch out for humid days as this can cause blushing. If you are not set up for clearing figure on spending about $400.00 for equipment and paint supplies. Now the fun begins with wet sanding and polishing with out burning through the clear.

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