Need opinions
#1

Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Milton,
DE
Posts: 2,638
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts

Thought I'd try something different, well at least for me. Had some spare carbon fiber from a recent customer build and wanted to try using it instead of my typically painted on windshield mask. Only had a little so had to work the mold a little different way, but the end result I think looks ok. Please comment, good/bad...this is only an experiment.
The carbon fiber was placed as part of the 1'st layer directly in the mold, not laid on top of an already completed canopy. The dark gray is tinted gelcoat, that was supposed to be a backer to darken any uncovered areas within the strands of CF. It almost worked....but still came out OK I guess.
The picture bottom left is a scuffed finish ready for clear coat, subsequent pictures show 2 layers of automotive clear coat over the entire hatch.
The carbon fiber was placed as part of the 1'st layer directly in the mold, not laid on top of an already completed canopy. The dark gray is tinted gelcoat, that was supposed to be a backer to darken any uncovered areas within the strands of CF. It almost worked....but still came out OK I guess.
The picture bottom left is a scuffed finish ready for clear coat, subsequent pictures show 2 layers of automotive clear coat over the entire hatch.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Edmonton, AB, CANADA
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts

Hey Scott. Why not try clear gel coat on your mold then apply the carbon fiber and roll out as usual. I think a hatch made from carbon fiber would look even cooler. Your hatch looks good though. Crap , now you got my brain rolling! I feel my wallet getting lighter....
#4

Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Milton,
DE
Posts: 2,638
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts

Good thoughts, however the styrene in all polyester resins would have a reaction with the clear coat applied to the mold and wrinkle it for sure! Another thing is I don't just pop these out of the molds and paint....I like to sand, fill in any imperfections, prime (if needed), and finally apply base coat. I use clear gelcoat directly in the molds allowing it to kick off, then place the carbon fiber over that in the correct area again allowing it to kick off. Spray in my normal gelcoat over everything and add my fiberglass as normal.
You will always get a better finish clear coating after the part is out of the molds anyway...no doubt. Have a new vacuum bagger that I've been anxious to use. The new cat molds will have very wide flanges so I can bag the parts using epoxy instead of polyester. This will defiantly enable me to build a completely air pocket and defect free (hopefully) part that will be superior to any polyester part. I would then be able to make 100% carbon fiber pieces that would look better than this windshield only part came out.
You will always get a better finish clear coating after the part is out of the molds anyway...no doubt. Have a new vacuum bagger that I've been anxious to use. The new cat molds will have very wide flanges so I can bag the parts using epoxy instead of polyester. This will defiantly enable me to build a completely air pocket and defect free (hopefully) part that will be superior to any polyester part. I would then be able to make 100% carbon fiber pieces that would look better than this windshield only part came out.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Edmonton, AB, CANADA
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts

You can get clear gel coat so you won't get any reaction. I have used it in the past for pulling show parts for demo purposes. It is gel coat without pigment and is styrene based. You can pull the part and if there are any imperfections (usually air pockets unless you vacuum bag ) they can be filled with the clear gel followed by wet sanding then a few coats of clear and buff as usual. It works believe me. However if you can vacuum bag you will pull flawless parts most of the time. The look of carbon v-bagged is dramatic to say the least.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Edmonton, AB, CANADA
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts

Heres one example.. http://www.fibreglast.com/showproduc...rdener-10.html
one more http://www.ferro.com/Our+Products/Li...hield+gelcoat/
one more http://www.ferro.com/Our+Products/Li...hield+gelcoat/
#7

Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Milton,
DE
Posts: 2,638
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts

Thanks for the links, but if you re-read the 1'st paragraph in that post, you'll see that I'm already using it!
. I had just enough clear gel to do that initial layer in the mold, followed by standard gel after the CF was placed. Not the best order to do things, but I was working with scraps of materials, and left over drops in the can! Getting ready to re-build the DCS hatch to remove some side vents that are not functional that I never really liked anyway. Will be making a large flange just for bagging purposes and be able to build in epoxy.

#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Edmonton, AB, CANADA
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts

Sorry read too fast. Was thinking you did it other way round. Reading and cooking supper don't work too well.....any how I think you'll luv vacuum bagging. I always enjoyed it...
(Good thoughts, however the styrene in all polyester resins would have a reaction with the clear coat applied to the mold and wrinkle it for sure!).... This is what confused me in your post.
(Good thoughts, however the styrene in all polyester resins would have a reaction with the clear coat applied to the mold and wrinkle it for sure!).... This is what confused me in your post.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Perth W.AW.A, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts

Hey Scott,
That looks awesome.....
What I used to do was apply a coat of vinyl ester resin onto the prepped mould, leave to cure and lay up the carbon fibre or even a hybrid (carbon/nylon, carbon/kevlar and such different color combos) with your chosen epoxy resin on top of the cured vinyl ester resin, then vac bags it.
I used this many time to make kayaks, canoes and paddle blades with great success.[sm=thumbs_up.gif]
P.S As you might know, DONT vac bag polyester resin......
That looks awesome.....
What I used to do was apply a coat of vinyl ester resin onto the prepped mould, leave to cure and lay up the carbon fibre or even a hybrid (carbon/nylon, carbon/kevlar and such different color combos) with your chosen epoxy resin on top of the cured vinyl ester resin, then vac bags it.
I used this many time to make kayaks, canoes and paddle blades with great success.[sm=thumbs_up.gif]
P.S As you might know, DONT vac bag polyester resin......

#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Mt. Clemens,
MI
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts

Why not try an overlay on a finished part? Blue tape one side of the c/fiber, cut to desired shape, wet-out and apply. let it cure, peel tape, sand it , clear it, polish. Bikers have been doin this for years with some way cool effects. Texallium, hybrids, color dyed twills. I'm doing this on the sides and radii portion of the deck on one of my cats, along with likely a build thread when it's complete.
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: kingwood,
TX
Posts: 421
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts

Looks fantastic..I have spent the last 17 years working with custom molded carbon fiber and bubble formed plastics..so i know how much work went into that..