Easy way to copy a hull
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is there a easy and cheap way to copy a 14in hull. Have tried searching but i only find guides on how to produce sturdy molds intended for multiple uses, and i only need one copy and want to keep it as cheap as possible. Is this practical at all or should i just give in and buy another.
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Why not mix up a batch of plaster-of- paris (spelling?) coat your hull in something to stop it from sticking,plonk the hull in and let it go hard and hey presto.
Just a thought.
Steve
Just a thought.
Steve
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yea i was thinking of something along those lines, but have no idea of what plaster of paris is or what i can use to coat the hull with. This is what i was thinking of making the mold with http://www.biltema.no/products/produ...?iItemId=96822 , its like epoksy and hardens after 1 hour. And how many layers of fiberglass do i need to make it though enough for a hull, is one enough considering its a very small hull?
#4
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The non-sticking stuff is PVA ( PolyVinylAlcohol) ,
and for a cheap one-time mold ... go to the drugstore and buy 2 rolls of plastering bandage.
That stuff for broken limbs :-)
After that is cured .. give it 2 > 3 layers of epoxy , than you have your mold.
and for a cheap one-time mold ... go to the drugstore and buy 2 rolls of plastering bandage.
That stuff for broken limbs :-)
After that is cured .. give it 2 > 3 layers of epoxy , than you have your mold.
#6

Not exactly the easy way out, but for multiple piece molds you could prep something like this.....oh, the green is PVA to make sure the white gelcoat I applied cures hard and not have a sticky surface. Check out my website linked in my sig line, it may inspire you to try something like what you are thinking of.
Layers of glass go on top of the "plug" and popped out to make your mold. Probably more work than you want to do, and definately the most expensive way but you get the best results.
Layers of glass go on top of the "plug" and popped out to make your mold. Probably more work than you want to do, and definately the most expensive way but you get the best results.
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ok thanks for all the answers, got a pretty good idea of what i need to do now. Not sure i'm going to save any money doing this but its a great feeling when you know you made something with your own two hands, especially if it works
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Hi mineralvann,
As the hull is rather small, have you considered using silicone?
The company I work, sells it as a two part product (Silicone + hardener) to make a copy of damage at a crime scene.
I'm sure it'll work for a hull aswell, check out if you have something similar around in Norway.
Another option is the stuff that is used to protect machining tools during transport; it is liquid when heated and cures around the product, leaving a waxy/plastic-like surface.
I've seen it used to copy procucts aswel.
If you find a workshop that uses this stuff, see if you can make a deal to make a mold of your hull, laminate the product and return the material used, as it can be heated and melted again.
If the hull is ABS, forget it, the heat will deform it.
Regards, Jan.
As the hull is rather small, have you considered using silicone?
The company I work, sells it as a two part product (Silicone + hardener) to make a copy of damage at a crime scene.
I'm sure it'll work for a hull aswell, check out if you have something similar around in Norway.
Another option is the stuff that is used to protect machining tools during transport; it is liquid when heated and cures around the product, leaving a waxy/plastic-like surface.
I've seen it used to copy procucts aswel.
If you find a workshop that uses this stuff, see if you can make a deal to make a mold of your hull, laminate the product and return the material used, as it can be heated and melted again.
If the hull is ABS, forget it, the heat will deform it.
Regards, Jan.
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Dreamin'
Nice that I stumbled across this, getting close to the stage for making the mold for a 1/72nd Surcouf and was looking for a nice article for using the plug to make copies. Thanks
Nice that I stumbled across this, getting close to the stage for making the mold for a 1/72nd Surcouf and was looking for a nice article for using the plug to make copies. Thanks

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Thats actually what im looking for, but the closes i have found yet is the product i posted a link to earlier where they use epoksy instead of silicone. Is the stuff you talk about commercially available and if so whats it called. I am a bit worried about if the epoksy, bandages or plaster of paris stuff will follow every crevasse and provide an exact copy. The reason for me wanting to copy the hull is that i am trying to make a micro jet drive boat with a flood chamber so im sure it will be a lot of trial and error and the original set me back about 180 dollars. But as dreamin hemi said "it may be cheaper AND easier to just purchase another hull"
#12

ORIGINAL: Tachikaze
Dreamin'
Nice that I stumbled across this, getting close to the stage for making the mold for a 1/72nd Surcouf and was looking for a nice article for using the plug to make copies. Thanks
Dreamin'
Nice that I stumbled across this, getting close to the stage for making the mold for a 1/72nd Surcouf and was looking for a nice article for using the plug to make copies. Thanks

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ORIGINAL: mineralvann
Thats actually what im looking for, but the closes i have found yet is the product i posted a link to earlier where they use epoksy instead of silicone. Is the stuff you talk about commercially available and if so whats it called.
Thats actually what im looking for, but the closes i have found yet is the product i posted a link to earlier where they use epoksy instead of silicone. Is the stuff you talk about commercially available and if so whats it called.
Or PREMEX 2001 Schmelztauchmasse, geruchs-neutral (non smelling)
You find that on page 29: http://premex.de/documents/k009_060710_pl.pdf
Regards, Jan.
#15

My Feedback: (51)

I have a 52" Eliminator hull that when I got it the deck wasn't on the hull bottom and I had an extra deck without a bottom.The guy who has the molds hasn't done any manufacturing yet,so I decided to make one out of wood.I know the hull bottom is 14" wide,so I'll use a contour gauge at different points on the hull bottom,where I'll put the frames inside the hull.The contour gauge can only shape half of the hull bottom at a time so I'll have to do the right half of the frame and flip the gauge over to get the left side,to make a full frame on paper as a pattern.I'll put frames at 6 or 7 places in the hull and stringers will tie these together.I'll have to figure out the keel after I get the frames made.If the fiberglass deck doesn't fit properly I'll just build a wood deck onto the hull bottom. http://www.right-tool.com/12steelpinco.html I'm just going to borrow one of these gauges from an auto body shop that has one .
#17

My Feedback: (51)

Hope to get started in the near future,after I get a few others things completed.I've built wood boats before but never tried this before.I have a small contour gauge ,but couldn't get the full shape of 1/2 of the hull bottom,so the bigger one with longer pins should do that.When I get started I'll post a few pics of the progress.