cen gray thunder upgrade info
#4

My Feedback: (1)

It's going to run really rough for the first few tankfuls so expect that. Afterwards it will start very easily, usually on the first or second pull.
I didn't like the water intake line coming in over the carb so I rotated the cooling head 90 degrees.
I tested a lot of props and found the X-637 to be a good one.
The boat's radio gear is exposed to the elements so a waterproofing spray like Corrosion X is almost a must for the receiver and servos. Bag the RX and battery pack.
Run time is awful with the small tank provided. A Sullivan SS-4 (Square Slant 4 oz.) fits right in the place of the stocker and probably give you at least twice the runtime.
Keep the steerable outdrive parallel to the transom or in line with the bottom or handling gets "interesting".
The 3rd knob on the transmitter controls steering throw (dual-rate) so if it doesn't turn enough, rotate the knob until you get enough. If you have too much then turn it down. The only reason I brought that up is that there was one person who complained about not having enough steering and that's what the problem was. You can adjust it too far and the joint will pop out so take it easy on the dual-rate.
If you do a search in the Nitro boat forum you may be able to dig up an ancient thread on the one that I had.
Oh, I forgot to add one important thing. The hull is fuel-resistant, not fuelproof so if you spill any fuel in there, clean it out ASAP. If you don't, it will soften the plastic and ruin the bottom. Most will collect around where the skeg is.
I didn't like the water intake line coming in over the carb so I rotated the cooling head 90 degrees.
I tested a lot of props and found the X-637 to be a good one.
The boat's radio gear is exposed to the elements so a waterproofing spray like Corrosion X is almost a must for the receiver and servos. Bag the RX and battery pack.
Run time is awful with the small tank provided. A Sullivan SS-4 (Square Slant 4 oz.) fits right in the place of the stocker and probably give you at least twice the runtime.
Keep the steerable outdrive parallel to the transom or in line with the bottom or handling gets "interesting".
The 3rd knob on the transmitter controls steering throw (dual-rate) so if it doesn't turn enough, rotate the knob until you get enough. If you have too much then turn it down. The only reason I brought that up is that there was one person who complained about not having enough steering and that's what the problem was. You can adjust it too far and the joint will pop out so take it easy on the dual-rate.
If you do a search in the Nitro boat forum you may be able to dig up an ancient thread on the one that I had.
Oh, I forgot to add one important thing. The hull is fuel-resistant, not fuelproof so if you spill any fuel in there, clean it out ASAP. If you don't, it will soften the plastic and ruin the bottom. Most will collect around where the skeg is.
#5
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what do you mean by keeping the steerable outdrive parallel to the transom or in line with the bottom or handling gets "interesting".
#7

My Feedback: (1)

There are a bunch of marks on the outdrive's strut including a big one that should be the neutral position. Trying different angles can also change the handling charcteristics of the boat as it might want to spin out or flip easier.
I wish that I had a video of mine when I had it. It flipped over once and the cowling kept it afloat with the motor still running. Even with a hole drilled over the top of the carb to let some cool air in it wasn't nearly close to wanting to go under.
Some Lustre-Kote can't hurt to help seal the inside of the hull. Lustre-Kote will become more nitro-proof the longer it's on there. I've got a field box that I shot in metallic purple many years ago and it's still holding up against 65%.
I wish that I had a video of mine when I had it. It flipped over once and the cowling kept it afloat with the motor still running. Even with a hole drilled over the top of the carb to let some cool air in it wasn't nearly close to wanting to go under.
Some Lustre-Kote can't hurt to help seal the inside of the hull. Lustre-Kote will become more nitro-proof the longer it's on there. I've got a field box that I shot in metallic purple many years ago and it's still holding up against 65%.
#9

My Feedback: (1)

Pull the RX apart and spray some in there. Remove the bottom cover off the servos and do the same thing. You can wipe off the excess or leave them open for a while if you'd like. Most don't need to be done again unless you use the boat a lot then twice a year for a little insurance. I've got some Areo-Plate that used to be made by Aerotrend Products. The little 4 oz. bottle has lasted me for years and treated a lot of radio systems. There is also a product called The Stuph which does the same thing and comes in a squirt bottle.
I've had a boat flip, fill the radio box full of water, drained it out, fired it up and ran it immediately after without a glitch.
I've had a boat flip, fill the radio box full of water, drained it out, fired it up and ran it immediately after without a glitch.
#10
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ok that for all your help you really have helpe me alot with that prop do i nreed to do any thing to it like with the shaft size and sharping and balancing
#11

My Feedback: (1)

The prop will slip right on. Yes, they need to be shapened and balanced to get the most out of them.
I just went into the AquaCraft site to see what they had to offer but the only thing close to what you need is the 37mm prop that comes stock for the Super-Vee 27. I was hoping for a GrimRacer prop in the size that you need. Their next option is a 40 x 52. These props come out of the package fairly sharp and really well balanced. They're shiny too!
I just went into the AquaCraft site to see what they had to offer but the only thing close to what you need is the 37mm prop that comes stock for the Super-Vee 27. I was hoping for a GrimRacer prop in the size that you need. Their next option is a 40 x 52. These props come out of the package fairly sharp and really well balanced. They're shiny too!