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Engine replacement kyosho inferno MP6 help please...

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Engine replacement kyosho inferno MP6 help please...

Old 03-22-2020, 05:29 AM
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HirenB
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Default Engine replacement kyosho inferno MP6 help please...

Hi all new to the forum...and hoping I can find a soul out there that can advise on replacing the engine on an inferno MP6. Totally appreciate that it's very old and will be a little fiddly to do. I did order an OS.21 engine from ebay with mounts however these did not fit all, fortunately the seller was very accommodating so managed to return it. Any advise is greatly appreciated, I have tried searching the forum but not been able to get clear direction with this. If anyone can help please message me. I can post post pictures if needed. Thank you, Hiren.
Old 03-24-2020, 02:41 PM
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D3MON
 
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should be any big block be able to fit, was the O.S. engine that you had purchased an O.S. .21TM by any chance? the .21TM is what is considered a small block, though its displacement is of the "big block" category, the actual crankcase size is that of a small block.
do you still have the old engine? maybe post a picture of that. (you will need 10 posts in total to post pictures though).
if it wasnt a .21TM, what engine was it? and what/how was it not mounting correctly?
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HirenB (03-26-2020)
Old 03-27-2020, 06:01 AM
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HirenB
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Hi D3MON,

Thank you so much for the reply. The new engine i bought was called " MAX 21 VG-P"(picture of the box attached. The issue centres around the mounting holes in the engine, the old engine as the front 2 closer together than the back. I have included pictures of the hold engine. Any help greatly appreciated.
Regards Hiren.












Hi D3mon,
Old 03-29-2020, 09:51 PM
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D3MON
 
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Originally Posted by HirenB View Post
Hi D3MON,

Thank you so much for the reply. The new engine i bought was called " MAX 21 VG-P"(picture of the box attached. The issue centres around the mounting holes in the engine, the old engine as the front 2 closer together than the back. I have included pictures of the hold engine. Any help greatly appreciated.
Regards Hiren.












Hi D3mon,
ahh i see, yeah forget that Kyosho did those type of mounts back in the day.
check this out, they dont have any in stock but give engine models that have that same mount type.
RC Car and Truck Nitro Engines
is the engine just low compression? or other internal issues? might be able to send it out to get re-pinched, (i hear good things about Rayaracing.com, and RW-mods.com
sorry not much help on a new engine.
another option but definitely at your own risk, would be to get a different engine mount from another buggy and drill holes in the chassis to mount the other mounts too.
maybe something like a Kyosho MP7 engine mount? just a thought.
Old 03-30-2020, 12:30 AM
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HirenB
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Hi D3MON,

Thanks so much for the information. I will see what i can source from the sites you mentioned and will try mashing some mounts to see what i can do
With the existing engine, it doesn't hold a tune no matter what i try. I have taken it to a hobby shop and they also struggled (they were very amused at the age of the car, possible more interested in getting me to buy a newer car altogether). The engine does fire up and run fine, however at the low revs the engine dies, when the breaks applied it seems to die, so when starting i have to have the throttle opened up quite a bit. I have tried everything to get it running but cannot find that sweet spot.
Again very much appreciate the help, will see where this journey leads now
Regards
Hiren.
Old 03-30-2020, 08:30 AM
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D3MON
 
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Originally Posted by HirenB View Post
Hi D3MON,

Thanks so much for the information. I will see what i can source from the sites you mentioned and will try mashing some mounts to see what i can do
With the existing engine, it doesn't hold a tune no matter what i try. I have taken it to a hobby shop and they also struggled (they were very amused at the age of the car, possible more interested in getting me to buy a newer car altogether). The engine does fire up and run fine, however at the low revs the engine dies, when the breaks applied it seems to die, so when starting i have to have the throttle opened up quite a bit. I have tried everything to get it running but cannot find that sweet spot.
Again very much appreciate the help, will see where this journey leads now
Regards
Hiren.
please dont take this the wrong way as i have no idea your nitro experience, but it does seem that a few of those items are related to tune.
to me it seems like the idle gap needs to be set and throttle trim needs to be adjusted to rest against the idle screw. from the sound of it the throttle trim is holding the idle open just a little so when you brake it closes the carb slide instead of the carb slide getting mechanically held open by the idle screw.
the tune is going to be different (at least on the HSN, the LSN is kind of a once and done though sometimes does need minor adjustments.) every time you bring it out. make sure to be tuning while the engine is up to temp (230+), and only one needle at a time.
it sounds like the LSN is probably either rich and loading with fuel or lean and starving for fuel.
(at all times make sure you are getting good smoke out of the exhaust primarily when at higher RPMs, when it is running really rich those and at low revs it wont look like much is coming out though, and monitor temps 230-280F is operating range, too much higher will damage and too much lower, the engine isnt warm enough for the surfaces to mate correctly)
if you can reset to factory settings and lean from there (factory settings are very rich and should not put the engine in danger of running lean idle gap at around 1mm, 1mm is too large for a tuned engine, so this will shrink down to .5-.7mm once it gets closer to tuned in.)
start with your HSN, lean it out 1/8 of a turn at a time, do a speed run, then if necessary, lean another 1/8 of a turn. once you are still on the rich side but still getting good power, work in the LSN, again start with 1/8 increments.
do a speed run, then note what it sounds like when it comes down off of throttle, the idle will probably dip then climb back up this means you need to lean slightly, do a 1/12 turn and do the same.
once you start getting good power off the line, you will probably notice the idle is climbing, this is because your idle gap/needle needs to be adjusted. once if it idles down, then picks up, lean the LSN a touch then repeat, once it stays consistently a little higher close (loosen) the idle gap needle 1/12 of a turn, then high speed pass, and note how it sounds. should either high idle a sec then drop down, or stay consistently same at a good rev.

Hope that helps.
there is a decent possibility at an air leak given the age, so if you are still having issues after going through a tune, might look into getting new o-rings for the carb, or maybe fuel line/tank. carb o-rings may be trying to locate a rebuild for another engine to use as that is an older engine and parts are probably going to be scarce.

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