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setup questions

Old 02-01-2014, 02:15 PM
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blvdbuzzard
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I went to the track again. Way to much fun. He had a great time. Running around and watching the guys with the really well setup cars flying around. Sort of makes us look like the old Ford model A's were are so slow.

As I watched my car more closely, I could see it needs a lot of help. I crank the wheel to turn and it goes straight. I see the wheel are turned but nothing is happening. It is sort of sliding then all of a sudden as I slow down it grabs and snaps into the corner. This makes it really hard to get a good line through the turns. On the higher speed section with larger turns it handles pretty good. It holds the line and turns when I turn the wheel.

From stock, the shock oil is pretty light, not sure of what weight. The dampening was almost not there. So I make a guess and bought some 25 weight oil. Well that is a little to thick. I am going to try some 20 weight and see how that does. I have no pre load on the shocks, the lower A arms are pretty close to level when sitting there with the battery and body mounted.

I do have sway bars installed and I have (2) sets of tires. I have the stock set that is a mini pin type of tire.

http://www.hobbypeople.net/index.php...for-8134.html#

I also have a set of Gladiators.

http://www.hobbypeople.net/index.php...-tires-m2.html

I noticed that after they watered the track, the Gladiators worked better, but filled up with clay. They started to skate around and slide. When I would do a good jump they would loose a bunch of the clay then they would stick again. As the track dried a little, I switched to the stock tires and they worked a little better but still had tons of push. The truck just would not turn in the tight stuff.

I have been reading about setups, watching videos, but sort of lost in all of the information. I know that almost every one else was running clay tires, that will be my next thing to get. But I would like to know about the sway bar setup.

If I make the sway bar stiffer in the front, will that make it better or worse? If I do the same to the rear, how does that effect the front?

Do I want more or less body roll?

I have 4 positions on the shock tower to mount the shock, there is an inner hole, a top and bottom hole, and an outside hole and 3 positions on the lower A arm. Right now the shock is in the center hole on the Arm and the top hole on the shock tower. What position would be a starting point try and get it to turn a little better?

My truck handle so bad, the 2 wd trucks and buggies out turn me 2 to 1.

Here is the track I run at. They are a bunch of great guys. I got help from one of the racers with gear mesh. Seems every one there is all about the fun of running them. In the video, on the left side under the Tekno sign, there is an "S" turn onto a table top. This is where the truck handles like a brick.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ObuIlaMD5Fs

Thanks for any help.


Buzz.
Old 02-01-2014, 03:11 PM
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Big Alice
 
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Yer gonna be busy for a while. lol http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...licky%20thingy

Another one. http://users.telenet.be/elvo/1/1_content.html
Old 02-01-2014, 03:23 PM
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nitroexpress
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Might help if you mention what type and brand of vehicle you are running.
Old 02-01-2014, 05:24 PM
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blvdbuzzard
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Really, why would I need to let you know what I was driving? Aren't all cars the same. I knew I forgot something. Old age is setting in.

I have a DHK Raz-R. Not a top brand but for me it is still fun to drive.

I will be reading for a while. Need to put what I see the car doing in terms of what I read. I can see more time at the track. Never a bad thing.

It is hard to setup my truck at home. The ground is not even close the clay track. I have super slippery granite or sticky soft dirt to drive on at home.



Thanks.

Buzz.
Old 02-01-2014, 05:52 PM
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phmaximus
 
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Sounds like u have to much rear traction and not enough front traction causing excessive under steer
with out knowing much about ur car and setup its hard to say where to start.

Sounds des like the suspension could be to stiff at the front..

Are u running and drag brake? A mall amount can help keep the weight on the front

Depending on a lot of factors.... If u were to make the front stiffer u will loose even more front end traction.

Last edited by phmaximus; 02-01-2014 at 05:55 PM.
Old 02-01-2014, 07:49 PM
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blvdbuzzard
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I have not tried to setup a drag break. I was out doing repairs and just checking the car over after the abuse from last night. I loosed the front sway bar, tightened the rear one. I do need to get lighter oil for the shocks. They are to stiff. I will work on getting the front softer. That should help out. I will try some 20 weight oil in the front and see how that works.


Thanks.

Buzz.
Old 02-01-2014, 08:00 PM
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nitroexpress
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Originally Posted by blvdbuzzard
Really, why would I need to let you know what I was driving? Aren't all cars the same. I knew I forgot something. Old age is setting in.

I have a DHK Raz-R. Not a top brand but for me it is still fun to drive.


Buzz.
Because if you have a 2 wheel drive, it won't be the same as a 4 wheel drive.
Check your diff oils. Like many RTR's, you probably have grease in the diffs. Not optimal.
Old 02-01-2014, 10:17 PM
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blvdbuzzard
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I tried to use a little humor, very little I know.

It may be time to tear it apart and check everything. I need to pick up some stuff first. About all I have is 25 and 60 weight shock oils. Will need to pick up some of the heavy stuff for the dif's.

The LHS has Associated 1000, 2000, 3000, 5000, 10,000 dif fluids, start with 3000 and 5000?


Buzz
Old 02-02-2014, 12:10 AM
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If it's pushing (understeer) I don't feel that changing the diff oil to thicker is going to help
Is recommend things like stiffen the rear and soften the front.
and run 0 toe

as for ur shock locations on the suspension arms for both front and rear I'd try moving them to the outer most holes. This will limit the suspension travel and slightly soften the suspension.
Old 02-03-2014, 06:03 PM
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blvdbuzzard
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I went by the LHS today to get some wheels for the tires I have on order and some 20 weight oil. While i was there, I ran into a guy who goes to the same track. I start asking him about this setup. He said first things first, what tire's are you running. I showed him and he laughs and said before you do anything, get some that are made for clay tracks. I showed him what I had on order. He said perfect. Then he started showing what to do if the car does what. I tried to explain as best as I could what the car was doing and he gave some good ideas. So, the Bar Codes will be here this week so I may head back the the track on Friday. I do "NEED" to try them out after all.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWHA7&P=7


Buzz.
Old 02-04-2014, 03:52 PM
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blvdbuzzard
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Well I must be doomed to failure.

So, I clean a section of the bench, break out the tools, pull the wheels off. Clean the car up a little. I go to move the shock to the inside hole on the A arm and the inside hole on the shock tower. Well they now bind on the wing mount in the rear and the upper link in the front. So it looks like about all I can do is move the shocks to the out side hole on the lower A arm and leave the shock in the top middle hole on the shock tower. Bummer.

I did change the shock oil to 20 weight. My new tires should be here tomorrow. I am looking forward to see how the new tires handle compared to the stock ones.


Buzz.
Old 02-04-2014, 04:38 PM
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Bummer. Don't worry.... Moving the top position only really changes the rate of shock compression vs suspension arm compression. And can make the suspension ever so slightly stiffer of softer.

ive got a massive tip for ya.... Get some o ring grease on the shock seals.... It will lubricate and protect the seals from the silicon oil.
ive been using the Losi o ring grease with great success...

the difference it makes on dry seals is absoulty amazing, I was shocked.

example, brand new traxxas XXL Ultra shocks, pre assembled just add oil...

when they are brand new, the bottom seal is adjusted way to tight as well as been un-lubricated
So there is a crazy amount of resistance in the seal, the seal sticks to the shaft and makes it physically hard to compress the shock. It feels like trying to compress a shock with 60wt oil even tho its dry.... No BS, it's that tight

even if u back of the seal adjuster, The o ring starts to stick and twist itself because there is no lubrication.

but chuck some o ring grease on there and adjust the seals, its as smooth as butter.

In fact that that smooth u can easily feel and adjust the seal tension/drag.

just keep in mind when adjusting
a tighter adjustment won't leak as much but won't be as smooth
a looser adjustment will be smoother but will leak more.

IMO the secrete to good shocks is a good freely flowing bottom seal.

without grease the only way the seal gets lubricated is by leaking oil.
Old 02-04-2014, 05:29 PM
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blvdbuzzard
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I know I bought an off brand truck that is not really much more then a entry level, but above the toy grades. I would have liked to at least try the adjustments to see how they worked. I will be ready when the tires come in. I am looking forward to this Friday to see how they do on the track.

Thanks for the tip. I have a running list of stuff I need. I have a few more bottles of shock oil, now the oring grease. I need a new tool box, a few more tools, Tired of taking them out of one box to take to the track then putting them back. I will be putting together a car box. It will have all of the tools and supplies in one easy to find place.

I have also been looking and ready about what truck to get. Not sure what I want. I was looking at the Slash Platinum, was set on that one, yet the SC10 4x4 is also right there. Looking for a good handling truck, not sure I will ever enter a race, but would like it to handle better then the one I have. Looks like a new thread in the future.


Buzz.

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