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TQ10 Graphite from the 80s

Old 04-29-2014, 06:31 AM
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Ravenwoods
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Default TQ10 Graphite from the 80s

I know nothing about radio controlled cars. A friend that was moving away gave this radio controlled car to me that had belonged to his son in the 80s. The box says it is a TQ10 Graphite. The end of the box says DLRTQ10 competition rolling chassis kit. It came with a Futaba FP-T2NBL Attack controller (Frequency 75.430 MHz).

The car appears to have everything it needs except a battery. How do I know what kind of battery it needs? The original kit came without motor batteries and bearings. It mentions a NiCd battery.
Old 04-29-2014, 06:40 AM
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R32GolfTA06
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Any standard NiCad stick battery would do the job.
Old 04-29-2014, 07:06 AM
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Ravenwoods
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Well I glanced through batteries on Ebay and it seemed there were various voltages and shapes of batteries. Seems like one would need to get the correct voltage and battery shape.
Old 04-29-2014, 08:09 AM
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R32GolfTA06
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A typical standard NiCad battery pack is a 7.2v 6 cell rectangular pack.. but you would need to ensure this would be the right shape for your car. This is a typical example
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BSP-RC-Ele...item5402c999b3

There are a few people selling TQ10s on ebay with similar radio gear as what you have.. so I will let you know what they say when they get back to me
Old 04-29-2014, 08:17 AM
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Ravenwoods
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I don't have the car with me now but I'm guessing this shape battery fits my car:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Duratrax-Ony...item2c723fc2a0
Old 04-29-2014, 08:21 AM
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R32GolfTA06
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Originally Posted by Ravenwoods
I don't have the car with me now but I'm guessing this shape battery fits my car:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Duratrax-Ony...item2c723fc2a0
additionally...The mah rating in this case which is 1800 is the cell capacity, typically the bigger the mah rating the longer the running time.. If I where you I would take the car down to your local hobby store and see which of the standard battery packs will fit.. Then you know for definite
Old 04-29-2014, 08:32 AM
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R32GolfTA06
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The guy selling his TQ10 on ebay just got back to me and he seems to run a 7.2v 6 cell NiCad in his car.. so any of the standard 6 cell 7.2v ones would do for what I see
Old 04-29-2014, 08:41 AM
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Ravenwoods
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I dropped by a hobby store the other day only to discover it no longer exists. We are in interior Alaska and may not have a proper hobby store. I found another one in the phone book but I suspect from the address that it is run out of someone's home. Opens only at 11am apparently. I'll give them a call then.

My friend gave me three boxes. One with the car in it, one with the Futaba radio controller, and another one with a battery charger. The battery charger does not appear to be specifically made for RC car batteries. I'll have to have a look at it more closely. Also I was about ready to get rid of an old 7.2 volt cordless drill that has a small charger. I wonder if that could be adapted to charge this car's battery.
Old 04-29-2014, 09:00 AM
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R32GolfTA06
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just buy a NiCad battery and charger on ebay.. they are cheap http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BSP-RC-Ele...item5402c998af

I wouldn't recommend using items that aren't intended for rc use.
Old 04-29-2014, 09:16 AM
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Ravenwoods
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Thanks for the advice. Is the TQ10 something rare? I found this on Ebay and appears to be the same setup, same body, same controller:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tchlink:top:en

My 13 year old daughter is interested in playing with this. Is it rare or valuable enough that it should go to a collector?
Old 04-29-2014, 09:30 AM
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yep I would say that was the same as yours... well I would imagine with its age, it might not be made anymore.. so I would say it was rare.. but someone else who knows more about them might say differently..i just know that rc cars get upgraded or replaced with new versions quite quickly.
Old 04-29-2014, 07:14 PM
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it's a more race-y version of the old associated rc10 gold pan. probably hasnt been made since '90 or so. quick google search says it's not that rare. it wouldnt be the end of the world to let her run it however, compared to it's modern counterparts, it'll be pretty slow and the battery life will be short. any 6 cell nicad stick pack will work and chances are a nimh pack will too.
Old 04-29-2014, 07:32 PM
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One other option would be to run a modern battery (lipo) there are a few advantages assioated mainly with run times and charging times.

I would recomend a battery like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Duratrax-LiP...item43c7e56ff9

and to make it look the part...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-LiPo...item5af6150965

Then all u would need is a LVD
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8S-Lipo-Li...item27e3182c4c
Old 04-29-2014, 11:01 PM
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I wasn't keen on recommending a lipo to someone who sounds like a beginner. lipos can be dangerous in the wrong hands as you know and the esc may not be compatible?
Old 04-30-2014, 12:01 AM
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I'm different. I highly recommend them. I get what u are saying but I feel a teenager or adult should be responsible enough. With charging any battery there are always safety precautions.

Mainly because they generally have a higher mah rating, and can be fully charged in just over a hour. Some other things I like is they are a lot lighter and hold a higher voltage under load... I found nimh are only good for a few minutes then from there on the just get slower and slower. Where a lipo goes hard for a lot longer and only noticeable slows down towards the end of the cycle
example a half charged lipo at 52% capacity is still 3.86v per cell. On a 2s lipo that's 7.72v... So it's nearly safe to say a 1/2 charged lipo is pushing as hard as a fully charges nimh under load. Where a 1/2 charged nimh is very noticeable slower than when it was fully charged...

As as far as I knew there is no comparability issues the only thing u need to watch is not to discharge them below 3v per cell otherwise u can damage a cell. And that $3 buzzer I linked simply plugs into the ballance port when u are driving the car and will have a audible alarm when the batteries start to get flat

the only real safety issues is.
not to over charge (correct charge current and proper lipo charger will prevent that from happening
not to over discharge (LVD or LVC or a buzzer will prevent that from happening

Last edited by phmaximus; 04-30-2014 at 12:05 AM.
Old 04-30-2014, 12:08 AM
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Did u get a chance to check out that link for the wraps??

how awesome does this look for a lipo.... It's make to look like a old 7 cell with a wrap and a fake cell... Even as a 6 cell it still looks cool
Old 04-30-2014, 06:03 AM
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Ravenwoods
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So it sounds like a specific voltage such as 7.2 is not important.
Old 04-30-2014, 09:08 PM
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Ravenwoods
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Originally Posted by R32GolfTA06
just buy a NiCad battery and charger on ebay.. they are cheap http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BSP-RC-Ele...item5402c998af

I wouldn't recommend using items that aren't intended for rc use.
I just checked out the charger that was given to me. It is a Panda and "charges 6-cell Ni-Cd batteries in 15 minutes and 7-cells in 20 minutes" and come with a Tamiya connector. So I'll just buy an battery on Ebay and see if the car works.
Old 05-05-2014, 10:30 AM
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Ravenwoods
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Received a ni-cd battery in the mail this morning from Ebay. The old car does work. But I do have some questions. Should this car also have reverse? It goes forward just fine but when I pull the lever back it does not reverse.

The Futaba Attack Controller (FP-T2NBL) has a switch to the left of the accelerator control. I'm not sure what that does. There is another sliding adjustment adjustment to the right of the control. I'm assuming that fine tunes the accelerator some how. I it is just like the fine tuning adjustment on the steering control. The steering control adjust is rather self-explanatory.

When you turn the car on it intermittently acts like it wants to go. Is that normal?
Old 05-05-2014, 11:36 AM
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here is a pdf of the manual http://www.manualslib.com/manual/378...ba-Attack.html maybe this will hill help.

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