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CNC Aluminum Protection

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Old 10-15-2015, 12:47 PM
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mattster1971
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Default CNC Aluminum Protection

For those of us who like to use aftermarket replacements with CNC aluminum in key areas, such as chassis support braces or differential mounts, is there a recommendation for protecting them from scratching etc. Example. I have the orange anodized support braces on my Hyper GT and they scratch easily so they orange rubs off and the metal shows. I just wanted to keep it nice longer if possible since they are so pricey. Has anyone every used Clear Plasti Dip to protect them? any other suggestions would be welcomed.
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Old 10-16-2015, 07:18 AM
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Anthoop
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There are different types of anodising and varying qualities...I have never used Plasti-Dip but would guess it would work...or just use aerosol lacquer (gloss-satin-matt).
Old 10-16-2015, 09:35 AM
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I guess this wasn't a popular question, many looks few replies. Everyone thinks Aluminum is a waste of money, but if you are building a project for show it isn't. and maybe you want to protect your investment. Thats just me.
Old 10-19-2015, 02:42 PM
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put it on a shelf, and never run it would be my suggestion to keeping it looking nice

Basically anything you put on it will grind off FAST so you would have to apply it every few minutes(or at least every time you hear it scrape)

As for aluminum being a waste of money... only certain parts like aluminum A-arms are a complete waste
C-hubs, knuckles, shock towers(well a lot depends on the aluminum quality here), braces, and some other parts are ok, and what I usually run.
Old 10-22-2015, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by SyCo_VeNoM
put it on a shelf, and never run it would be my suggestion to keeping it looking nice

Basically anything you put on it will grind off FAST so you would have to apply it every few minutes(or at least every time you hear it scrape)

As for aluminum being a waste of money... only certain parts like aluminum A-arms are a complete waste
C-hubs, knuckles, shock towers(well a lot depends on the aluminum quality here), braces, and some other parts are ok, and what I usually run.
Putting it on a shelf and not running would be a waste of time and money. I am not trying to protect the chassis from scratches, thats impossible. more like the support braces etc. that I scratched up putting new exhaust manifold springs on. That type of small protection. nothing more, nothing major. thank you for the suggestions, I will trial and error until I find what I like then.
Old 10-26-2015, 07:23 AM
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I think the only practical way to protect the anodizing Is to do like collector said, some kind of spray coating. How 'bout automotive clear-coat? That stuff is tough. The only thing I'd wonder about a spray coating over anodized aluminum is, would it stick well enough without the surface being lightly sanded first?
Old 10-26-2015, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by EXT2Rob
I think the only practical way to protect the anodizing Is to do like collector said, some kind of spray coating. How 'bout automotive clear-coat? That stuff is tough. The only thing I'd wonder about a spray coating over anodized aluminum is, would it stick well enough without the surface being lightly sanded first?
Automotive clear coat (lacquer) is two pack paint....as I said you can get aerosol lacquers in various degrees of gloss that would be sufficient.
To prepare the part for paint there are two choices....either use a clear adhesion promoter or just a light scotching with grey scotch....and obviously a thorough clean with solvent wipe before painting.
Old 10-26-2015, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Anthoop
Automotive clear coat (lacquer) is two pack paint....as I said you can get aerosol lacquers in various degrees of gloss that would be sufficient.
To prepare the part for paint there are two choices....either use a clear adhesion promoter or just a light scotching with grey scotch....and obviously a thorough clean with solvent wipe before painting.
Thank you for your responses. I did purchase clear lacquer and it did the trick. It adheres fine after a thorough cleaning with rubbing alcohol. It was great for coating the front and rear shock towers and the top the the center differential. Those are the pieces I wanted to treat. I had to drill new holes in the shock tower for new shocks I got. Its funny how manufacturers make their vehicles so nothing will fit competitors vehicles. example. The shocks for the TLR 8ight 3.0 are great and I wanted to use them on the Hyper 7. Well to make them fit, I had to drill bigger holes in the shock towers to accomodate the mounts, the original mounts won't work. And the ball ends were shorter, but not only that , the metal inserts in the ball ends were too wide for the A-arm holes to mount, wouldn't slide into the a-arm. Instead of routing out the a-arm I just popped the silver balls out and ground down both sides evenly checking with my calipers to make sure I got them thin enough to fit. I wish the rear shocks were about 1/4 longer but other than that its all good.
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