CNC Aluminum Protection
#1
Thread Starter
CNC Aluminum Protection
For those of us who like to use aftermarket replacements with CNC aluminum in key areas, such as chassis support braces or differential mounts, is there a recommendation for protecting them from scratching etc. Example. I have the orange anodized support braces on my Hyper GT and they scratch easily so they orange rubs off and the metal shows. I just wanted to keep it nice longer if possible since they are so pricey. Has anyone every used Clear Plasti Dip to protect them? any other suggestions would be welcomed.
#2
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There are different types of anodising and varying qualities...I have never used Plasti-Dip but would guess it would work...or just use aerosol lacquer (gloss-satin-matt).
#3
Thread Starter
I guess this wasn't a popular question, many looks few replies. Everyone thinks Aluminum is a waste of money, but if you are building a project for show it isn't. and maybe you want to protect your investment. Thats just me.
#4
put it on a shelf, and never run it would be my suggestion to keeping it looking nice
Basically anything you put on it will grind off FAST so you would have to apply it every few minutes(or at least every time you hear it scrape)
As for aluminum being a waste of money... only certain parts like aluminum A-arms are a complete waste
C-hubs, knuckles, shock towers(well a lot depends on the aluminum quality here), braces, and some other parts are ok, and what I usually run.
Basically anything you put on it will grind off FAST so you would have to apply it every few minutes(or at least every time you hear it scrape)
As for aluminum being a waste of money... only certain parts like aluminum A-arms are a complete waste
C-hubs, knuckles, shock towers(well a lot depends on the aluminum quality here), braces, and some other parts are ok, and what I usually run.
#5
Thread Starter
put it on a shelf, and never run it would be my suggestion to keeping it looking nice
Basically anything you put on it will grind off FAST so you would have to apply it every few minutes(or at least every time you hear it scrape)
As for aluminum being a waste of money... only certain parts like aluminum A-arms are a complete waste
C-hubs, knuckles, shock towers(well a lot depends on the aluminum quality here), braces, and some other parts are ok, and what I usually run.
Basically anything you put on it will grind off FAST so you would have to apply it every few minutes(or at least every time you hear it scrape)
As for aluminum being a waste of money... only certain parts like aluminum A-arms are a complete waste
C-hubs, knuckles, shock towers(well a lot depends on the aluminum quality here), braces, and some other parts are ok, and what I usually run.
#6
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I think the only practical way to protect the anodizing Is to do like collector said, some kind of spray coating. How 'bout automotive clear-coat? That stuff is tough. The only thing I'd wonder about a spray coating over anodized aluminum is, would it stick well enough without the surface being lightly sanded first?
#7
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I think the only practical way to protect the anodizing Is to do like collector said, some kind of spray coating. How 'bout automotive clear-coat? That stuff is tough. The only thing I'd wonder about a spray coating over anodized aluminum is, would it stick well enough without the surface being lightly sanded first?
To prepare the part for paint there are two choices....either use a clear adhesion promoter or just a light scotching with grey scotch....and obviously a thorough clean with solvent wipe before painting.
#8
Thread Starter
Automotive clear coat (lacquer) is two pack paint....as I said you can get aerosol lacquers in various degrees of gloss that would be sufficient.
To prepare the part for paint there are two choices....either use a clear adhesion promoter or just a light scotching with grey scotch....and obviously a thorough clean with solvent wipe before painting.
To prepare the part for paint there are two choices....either use a clear adhesion promoter or just a light scotching with grey scotch....and obviously a thorough clean with solvent wipe before painting.