screws
02-18-2004, 10:46 PM
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RE: screws
Although it is possible to strip out a phillips head screw with the correct sized screw driver, you can reduce the chances of doing so simply by using the correct sized screw driver.
If the screws are bubble head (not flush, kinda like a mini dome) and you have a dremel or other type rotary tool, use a cut off wheel to cut a slot through the head making it a standard (slotted) screw. Don’t cut too deep or you’ll just be cutting the screw head in half. Attempt to remove using a standard screw driver. If the screws are counter sunk (flush mount) then this method is not advisable for you will be cutting into the chassis itself in order to make the slot.
Another way is to obtain left handed drill bits. They are not cheap but you can purchase packages of 2 to 4 to whole sets. In some cases, you can buy them individually but it’s rare. With the appropriate sized left handed bit, you simply put it in a reversible drill and then just go about drilling out the screw. If all goes well, the bit will “catch” the screw and simply turn the screw out for you. This method works for both bubble head and counter sink screws.
If the screws are counter sinks, you may also take a standard drill bit (if a left handed bit isn’t available) and drill out the head of the screw itself. The bit size needs to be slightly smaller that the outside diameter of the screw head and you don’t want to drill any deeper than it takes to remove just the head. Once you’ve done all four and the engine is removed, there is enough of the screws sticking out from the engine block to get a small pair of vice grips or pliers to turn them out (I advise the vise grips).
If the screws are bubble head, you may use the above noted method also or by whatever means possible (dremel, grinder, whatever) grind away the head, remove engine, remove what is left as noted above.
If the screws are bubble head (not flush, kinda like a mini dome) and you have a dremel or other type rotary tool, use a cut off wheel to cut a slot through the head making it a standard (slotted) screw. Don’t cut too deep or you’ll just be cutting the screw head in half. Attempt to remove using a standard screw driver. If the screws are counter sunk (flush mount) then this method is not advisable for you will be cutting into the chassis itself in order to make the slot.
Another way is to obtain left handed drill bits. They are not cheap but you can purchase packages of 2 to 4 to whole sets. In some cases, you can buy them individually but it’s rare. With the appropriate sized left handed bit, you simply put it in a reversible drill and then just go about drilling out the screw. If all goes well, the bit will “catch” the screw and simply turn the screw out for you. This method works for both bubble head and counter sink screws.
If the screws are counter sinks, you may also take a standard drill bit (if a left handed bit isn’t available) and drill out the head of the screw itself. The bit size needs to be slightly smaller that the outside diameter of the screw head and you don’t want to drill any deeper than it takes to remove just the head. Once you’ve done all four and the engine is removed, there is enough of the screws sticking out from the engine block to get a small pair of vice grips or pliers to turn them out (I advise the vise grips).
If the screws are bubble head, you may use the above noted method also or by whatever means possible (dremel, grinder, whatever) grind away the head, remove engine, remove what is left as noted above.
