Can I weld the chassis?
#1
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Long story short, the chassis on my Team Losi XXX-T RTR2 broke in half. It's the only thing that broke. I have the part on order but won't be here for a week. I just bought the car so it's a little disheartening and I really want to drive.
My question: In the time until I receive the new chassis and get it put on, can I use some plastic welding compound to fix the broken chassis? I won't be doing any serious offroading, just putting around in the parking lot. Would this work?
-Mark
My question: In the time until I receive the new chassis and get it put on, can I use some plastic welding compound to fix the broken chassis? I won't be doing any serious offroading, just putting around in the parking lot. Would this work?
-Mark
#3
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I don't think CA is very heat-friendly.
a good friend of mine has a saying:
If you can't afford to do it right, you can't afford to do it wrong. in other words, just get a new chassis plate.
a good friend of mine has a saying:
If you can't afford to do it right, you can't afford to do it wrong. in other words, just get a new chassis plate.
#4
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don't use CA, it won't hold it.. your best bet is to get some automotive fiberglass cloth and epoxy. put at least 3 layers of cloth on each side, compress it with waxpaper on each side followed by a brick on the top on bottom. (make a chassis sandwich, starting from the bottom, brick->waxpaper->3 layers of cloth/epoxy->chassis>epoxy->waxpaper->bricks) The end result will be MUCH stronger then the original chassis, with very little weight gain.
#9
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I think codepunk had the new chassis part figured out before he ever wrote this post -- stated plainly at the beginning...
He's looking for a quick fix to last a week - nothing more. CA, JB Weld, Epoxy, whatever - quick, cheap & easy - throw it in the trash next week.
He's looking for a quick fix to last a week - nothing more. CA, JB Weld, Epoxy, whatever - quick, cheap & easy - throw it in the trash next week.
#11
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Personally I'd be using chemweld for your internals of the weld..... Then using brass staples or stainless "brass is all i had on hand most of the time as copper and brass love to pull in heat for panel beating! Also brass has a little stretch all be it not for long term use flex-wise".. now using those staples I'd get them recessed and flush and as deep and anchored as possible then I would stitch the weld as deep as I can for example push down and in then back out down and in like stitching.. or side by side pushing the material into each opposing side then doing the stitch then smoothing it out whilst melting the 3 welds into a flush look and you shouldn't need to remove any material it will go where it needs to be and should really join each side and the Chem well will help the inside . If you want to strengthen a break that's like 25% attached like a white stretch fold do all I said prior but once done hit it with heat but make sure it's very localised just over either side of the crack... The you could put a chassis brace over that the ones I've seen from m2c are perfect for my truck for example... The other thing you can do it if it's a straight break and has the room is take out some material and join it with joints like dove tails or over lapping plates either side of the crack and bolt them together maybe using plates either side to reinforce the break. Or maybe the chassis snapped on and angle like > / that would work especially well if you did that but ran the plates counter to the cracks direction to help the flex forces spread evenly
