novelty

I keep on hearing about after run oil, and how I should put some in the cylinder after running to stop corossion.
The way the ports work on a nitro engine, if I put it down the "plug hole", the ports will just squirt it out the exhaust, not the crank, so it will just line the cylinder, not much fuel to corrode here anyway.
If I put it down the carbie, it will get in the crank, cycliner, but will it gum up the works.
Has anybody tried adding dye to the after run oil, stripping an engine to see exactly how well it lubcricates all the parts, or is it just sent out the exhaust port ?
I can't see how adding to the glow plug hole, truning the engine over, will get into the cranckcase for protection ?
Is this REALLY special oil, or can I just cut kerosine and 2 stroke oil if I want to do this procedure ?

So far, I just just the tank empty, and depend on the oil that was in the fuel for lubrication and to sop corrosion.

Just wondering if this after run oil down the glow plug is a scientifically / engineering proven practice, or just something people assume works and the after run oil companies are laughing to the bank ?

phattracker

My Feedback: (1)

I think the latter. I used it for a while then just stopped. Don't beleive the hype, in fact, some fuels, at least the ones available to me at the LHS say you don't need it, that the fuel is non corosive. I take my motors apart often, atleast every gallon, to check things out and never found any rust or oxidizing of the metals. The bearings are the only thing that seem to suffer, but that has nothing to do with the after run oil, it's just the nature of the 35,000 rpm beast. lol A little or alot of WD-40 to blow out the bearings and clean the case real good is all I ever needed. WD-40 is a better cleaner than a machine oil IMO. So all I'm saying is that after run oil is good for 1 thing, assembly. Wouldn't do without it. But as far as prolonging engine life, preventative maintainence, cleaning, and attention to detail will do just as well if not better and be lighter on the ole' wallet than after run oil. IMO of course. If anyone has any thing to add, please please please do. I'm no scientist or said expert, just a hands on guy. Hope this helped.

Hack u 2

People that have told me or swore by after run oil start there engines cold, dry start (no fuel) and many more contradictions. I know friction=wear. I like to put 3 in 1 oil in my engines. I also clean my air filter with oil all the time (KnN). Through the glow plug the oil will set ontop of the piston and slowly work its way down. However i believe that if you let it set for wks.,you are wasting your time,because it will all settle at bottom. So for me I use it as a pre run oil. If you do not feed the engine fuel(disconnect after use) I think the engine is hot enough to burn any remaing liquid/fuel to not cause corosion. Just one opinion, good luck on getting the answer as there are hundreds of thoughts.

Furadi

I recently bought some only to break in a new engine. But in normal use I won't use it. Now I'll probably use it in the winter when I put my buggy away.

dsales

I never use it and from my experience it reduces engine life as you remove the glow plug and airfilter frequently which allows minute particles of dust in.

My first nitro truck that I bought 5 years ago was a thunder tiger SSK, the car itself was rubbish, the first day all the plastic gears melted but the engine was great, it was only a small .15 but when it was properly tuned and had a decent pipe it was fast! I put atleast gallon through the engine every week for 2 years. Now i still run it once a month to stop it from rusting and just dying but it still performs like new and does 46mph I never put ARO in it, never rebuilt the engine and i now when i drive it i cant be asked to empty the fuel out the tank, so it has a full tank of fuel always in it for 1 month periods which is means to make the engine rust and die by now but NO, i removed the cylinder head a few months ago and the piston is a nice pink shade and no corrosion

Foxy

ARO is simple... use it if you live in a humid climate, if you do not plan on running the car for a couple of weeks or more. Always use it to store the engine for 3 weeks or more, no matter what the climate. Even by not doing this, you risk very little if you keep the engine in a cool dry area, it's just a sensible precaution.

The reason for it is the hydroscopic quality of nitro fuel. It absorbs water from the air, and the fuel evaporates faster than the water, leaving only fuel oil and water in the engine, which as we all know, don't mix, so you get spots of oxidisation.

If you run the car regularly, no need to use it. If you run the car infrequently, use it.

The Collector1

My Feedback: (2)

Well I have had my Tmaxx 2.5 for 4 years but never really used it, I dont think Ive ran 5 tanks through it, I decided to pull it out one day last week because I wanted to hear a nitro after all the electrics Ive been using, I charged a battery, put the wand on the back of the truck and heard nothing, did it a couple of times and got nothing, I tried to turn the flywheel and it wouldnt move, so I grabbed the after run oil and it freed it right up, so I would say it works, I also have a 10 yr old OS 21 and it still works so I know after run doesnt mess up motors

novelty

Thanks guys, seems to be along the thoughts I had, use after run oil if you re-assemble the engine to stop friction, use it if the car hasn't been run in along time and the cylinder might be dry, and always let the car run dry at the right temperature. Some how the way ports and 2 stroke works, just made me feel like after run oil down the plug hole would allow me to see my money thrown out the exhaust.

Medrivfast

I use it all the time after i'm done running my trucks. I don't see any harm by using it. It's a very cheap item to buy and it only takes less than a minute to do.

Nitro Fumes

I use Marvel Mystery oil. I always drain the fuel tank and run the engine dry of fuel. Then I take the air filter off, drip a few drops of oil into the carb. Brip it over on the starter and put the air filter back. Everything gets coated. You can put the engine away for many years like that. Then just fuel it up, choke and start it right up like you ran it an hour ago.

slayerphonics

It doesn't matter that the ARO eventually goes to the bottom because it reacts the metal at the chemical level,

Whats going to rust in your engine? only thing that is steel is the crank.

I've taken engines that have been in my garage for over a year, with no ARO, this is what I found,

Small amounts of rust on the crank that polished off,

Engine was still coated with castor oil from the fuel I was using.

So I go by this rule,

Use quality fuel with real castor oil,

If your engine is not in use for several months I'll drop some oil down inside to the crank and bearings and then put it in a zip lock bag with all the air pushed out.

But other then that I rarely ARO, but It doesn't hurt to be safe its cheap and takes a couple seconds

Logi3

I used to use it after every race, but upon reading various threads its pointless as the oil from the fuel will still be there around 1-2 weeks. So i would only really use it if the car is going into storage, not being used for 3+ weeks or your breaking in a new engine.

Pathous

My Feedback: (12)

The bearings are also made of steel this is what the aro keeps from rusting. I agree that putting some down the plug hole is not the best place to put it. The affects are better seen if the aro is used down the carb. Also the stuff from the hobby shop is just overpriced marvel mystery oil. I have used marvel mystery oil, automatic transmission fluid and air tool oil which can be had for a few dollars and last a lifetime.

Technex

Any idea why some engine manufactures say not to put ARO down the carb? (They do make the engines, give them some credit!)

Pathous

My Feedback: (12)

If you don't clean off the area around the carb you can get dirt down it when you pull the filter.

Technex

Got ya, but I think it's something to do with the orings.

slayerphonics

Just don't let the oil get into the mechanics of the carb, just open it fully and drop it in, or use a straw to help aim it.

calvino

what about the chrome in the sleeve, it can rust, also ARO prob keeps everything lubed up when trying to start the engine when the fuel can't get in[&:]

cumquat

back when i had a buggy i used it just to be safe. my uncle uses it in his planes but not his cars and after 3+ gallons on his maxx he has yet to have a problem.

Barber420

My Feedback: (1)

As has been said, it's only really necessary if you're going to let the car sit for a while without running. Is it mandatory, no, but is it some cheap insurance, yes.

Chris_RC

Better safe than sorry. I mean does it really kill you to take a minute to lube the engine uo if fuels reccomend it? I only run my cars/trucks every week or so so it is just a precaution.

FatBoyObese

I use WD40 just like Phattracker.....I find that using WD40 keeps my one way bearing clean and it will get into every nook and cranny inside the engine. When I used to use after run oil the one way bearing would slip when trying to start the engine. I just put a squirt down the carb venturi whilst spinning the motor over with the rotostart. Remember that if you do it this way to remove the glow plug or the engine is likely to hydraulic and you risk damaging your conrod and crank. oh and put a rag over the head or you'll get a face full of WD40

Argess

well....you could put the rag over the engine instead.....hehehehe

By the way....I never use ARO and have never had a problem. And I live in a salt air environment. I've had engines stored for years wihtout ARO and they run fine. Now I do own a bottle. I use it if I reassemble an engine, which is rare. Last time it was because I was given an engine that was so gummed up with fuel residue, it was hard to turn over.

Edit: I just reread the above post....I see he meant "cylinder head"......I was picturing him adding WD40 and cranking his engine with a rag over his own head.....LOL.

calvino

another reason why ARO is a good idea is the engine is lubed up for the next time you start it, that way if your priming, it isn't a "dry" engine being pulled around while your waiting for the fuel to enter...

FatBoyObese

LMFAO Must admit that I could have been a little clearer with where to put the rag