Droop
 

hey peeps......

Does anyone know a good starting point for droop?

From what Ive found 1/10 TC are about 4-6mm

but i dont have a clue for 2wd SCT's

Ive been trying to compare 1/10 stadium trucks to 1/8 buggies to get a average that might be a good starting point for a SCT.

But the problem is most guys are measuring the shock length not the actual chassis droop, so I dont have a clue...

And 2 other questions

whats the stock shock lengths for a slash 2wd?

whats the shock lengths for the proline powerstroke shocks?


Just encase anyone is wondering, im running losi XXX-NT shocks on a slash, and I dont have the original shocks anymore.
I suspect the front ones are to long and are not helping the traction roll problems in a slash.
Last time I was at a high bite carpet track it was bicycling around the high speed bends, stiffer front and rear springs have helped some what. but I swear ive lost some traction when turning in.

cheerz

RE: Droop
 

Take out the droop screws for off road running (buggies, truggies, 1/10th and 1/8th), limiting droop for bashing just limits the suspension travel for zero benefit, especially if the car also has ARBs, which provide almost the same effect as limiting droop.

If you are racing, ask the folks at the track, nobody online can tell you what works at a track unless they also run there.

Here's a scenario to visualize...

RC car 1 has no droop screws, his car is easier to drive as his suspension articulates adequately for every variation in the surface, he may not break the lap record with his setup, but he is not 'compromised' in any way.

RC car 2 has a very small amount of droop. The driver of RC car 2 must be very careful to take a consistent route around the track which agrees with his low droop settings, if he hits the burms at a funny angle, he's going to be ALL OVER THE PLACE, as his suspension cannot articulate enough to save him. On the flip side though, he can corner faster, as his car's CoG is sucked lower by the lack of suspension articulation as the outside shock compresses (the chassis is sucked down to the dirt), but he will only corner faster than the other guy assuming all other things are equal. If the guy running zero droop has better shock oil and springs for the track, the less droop is not going to help car 2 catch up.

Basically, to realise the benefits of running little droop off road, you have to know your surface very well, and be a very good driver. If you are not at least a club level racer, you will gain NOTHING by limiting droop.

A lot of racers also run zero droop, regardless of surface, they just prefer the stability, you can count me among them (retired, for now). :)

I realize this doesn't exactly answer the specific questions you had, just a bit of background on droop to help you make the decision. :)

RE: Droop
 

Cheers m8, I've got a great therodical understanding of the effects of droop, and there are some very important points that have not been mentioned. Like weight transfer, turn in, and on/off power steering and traction

Here is the thing, I'm setting it up not for bashing, and my local track only races 1/8 Offroad, so I dare say there setups would be very different from a 2wd slash, allso I don't go there when they are racing. So generally when I'm there there is no one there. I'm not to keen on the idea of going on a race day to ask random people about there droop settings. I would rather get to know the local racers first.

I'm really happy with the cars rear traction, but it can't change directions very well and the turn in is very extreme, even for a 2wd.
Last time at the track I suspect the spring rate was way to soft... Losi 2.5 pink front and red rear. I'm now running blue front and green rear, it's heapse more stable now. But it's still not right.

I strongly suspect that I'm running excessive droop in the front compared to the stock traxxas shocks. All I'm doing is trying to get a comparison of what I'm currently running to a stock slash.

I would argue that on 2wd off roaders droop can be very benifisial. More so than 4wd's esspically on the loose track I'm paning to run on
But the slash would really benefit from the reduced cog from a slight decrease in droop

RE: Droop
 

Ok well after some googling I've found my shock length seems to be in the ballpark, F 88mm and R 104mm. So if anything I'm running 10mm less droop in the front and 14mm less droop in the rear shocks compared to the power stroke shocks from proline.

I think I'm going to leave the droop how it is. And play around with the springs and oil more. Then when I get some new tyres I can start this all again.... Fun fun fun.

Might even work on my turn in, I think I'm a little bit aggressive coming in and that could be a factor