RE: nitro
 

have you ever seen some of the advice on the electric forums? :D
Hell look at people that post there wanting a basic RC for under $200 for a little kid to play with. You get people recommending 1/8th MT's that go damn near 50mph, and require dual lipos, and whatnot that cost over $500 ;)

On topic filter oil if running it dry on asphalt where there is little to no dust won't kill it(as foxy said 3 posts or so back). I've done it at one point when I was waiting for my bottle of filter oil to come in with my one truck, and that engine still runs fine. Now if its a dusty environment I'd say wait.

As for ARO if the RC is gonna be ran daily or every few days its not needed, if being stored, or you have 2+ weeks in between planned running's I'd use it.


I swear remembering reading there was an RC company that said to use WD40 as an ARO at one point (think it was traxxas for some reason)

RE: nitro
 

I don't think any of your responses will matter anyway. The O.P. is clearly not going to take the advice of anyone. He posted his question and is waiting for someone to post what he wants to hear. Several people have posted reasonable answers...none to his liking. He continues to ask for alternatives. We should have cut to the chase early on and just told him our secret. I know guys, don't get mad at me but it's not fair he doesn't know our secret so here it is. If you run out of air filter oil just take some tooth paste and smear it on the filter. This will get you by every time.

RE: nitro
 

you fool! you could use your tower coupons for that!

RE: nitro
 

If we are gonna go that route, lets just say to use Pam cooking spray on the air filter, maybe add a drop of acetone for additional solvency. Next, flush the crankcase with vinegar to clean the goo out and follow up with wd40 mixed with karo syrup to protect the internals and use some Works toilet cleaner to remove the oil residue off the outside of the engine.

And yes, Traxxas recommended using WD40 for ARO. Now who is trying to sabotage users to sell more engines?

RE: nitro
 

Looks like this thread has taken a turn for the worst...sorry Foxy for antagonizing. So it's now the "how to support your nitro car off of household products". Next topic....making your own nitro mix out of moonshine and transmission fluid!

RE: nitro
 

you should never do that! waste of good white lightning.

sorry, couldnt resist:D

RE: nitro
 

You could always drink it and then just push your car around while making "vroom vroom" noises.

RE: nitro
 

Works for the electric guys. Just couldn't resist.

RE: nitro
 

I must've missed that one. Last time I was in the electric forums I was blinded by the 300 threads asking "what's your favorite SCT truck?"

RE: nitro
 

If you can't be objective, what's the point in having a conversation? This isn't the school playground, my words are above for all to see. Traxxas sabotaging their customer's engines?? Good God man, check your tin foil hat, I think the radio waves are getting to you.

RE: nitro
 

Wasn't your fault buddy, I mentioned WD40 in one of the early responses. Seems I've drawn the wrath of the glow purist crowd with my irresponsible and dangerously inappropriate advice. ;)

RE: nitro
 

WD-40 is perfectly fine in the engines........I have used it many many many many times over the years, as well I have recommended hundreds of people use it to clean their OWB when it is slipping....Nothing cleans a gummed up OWB better then WD-40.......... Now the thing with WD-40 is you need to let the solvent dissipate before you fire the engine.... The solvent reacts badly and will kill your glowplug violently if you try to start it "wet" ......I usually recommend people give it 5 minutes for the solvent to dissipate before starting the engine....

RE: nitro
 

I don't understand why you would "clean" and "protect" with a product that doesn't mix with the fuel. I mean, WD40 is after all 45-50% stoddard solvent. I believe most stoddard solvents are napthalene based. Basically zippo lighter fluid. Cleaning one-way clutches with it? Why not use the solvent that the oils were dissolved into in the first place? Methanol works far better for cleaning than anything petrol based and it evaporates 10x faster than that WD40 crud. I mean... Doesn't Werks fuel work for cleaning too? The oils in that stuff is so fantastic, it should work for air filter oil too I would think. Or wd40.

I guess I tried to look at this WD40 phenomena from a logical standpoint. I asked myself what was so logical about using it in a model engine but I came up with nothing.. I should have kept my fingers quiet. I better put my helmet back on and buy brushless stuff.

RE: nitro
 

WD-40 works the absolute best for cleaning the OWB....... and no the fuel itself works nowhere near as well....WD-40 dissolves gummed castor instantly.....

sometimes theory amounts to absolutely nothing....just have to get your elbows dirty and try something and see for yourself what works and what doesn't

and any ATF based afterun is a massive no no in my books...I would use WD-40 1000 times over any of that red ARO crap they sell....the nastiest rustiest engines I have seen used the red crap, and whats worse is that red crap will destroy the silicone filler used in most race engines........

personally I do not use any ARO..I just shut my engines down and leave them be..I dont runt hem dry I actually purposely leave fuel in them......I never have rust, and always open my engines to see a thick layer of oil coating over everything.....But this is not something I would recommend with most of the crap fuels sold today....

RE: nitro
 

Well that's the only problem with public forums. I feel that different opinions are a good thing and let people make decisions that work for them. Through research on the forum and the Internet in general, you can usually get an answer that you feel has merit by the number or responses that are typically the same. The problem I have is when people post their opinion as fact which happens all too often.


Things like...if you spray wd40 in your engine it will expand and crack the block! "after all, it displaces moisture and that moisture has to go somewhere". See what I mean, you can almost make anything sound like it makes sense. Maybe a lot of our members are chemists by trade and just know better than us dummies. I'm a simple guy who's technically oriented. I troubleshoot elevators by trade which have evolved ten fold over the years. As far as the cars go, I've probably been in the hobby far longer than many of the members but I'm not ashamed to take advice from them when needed.

RE: nitro
 

WD-40 is perfectly safe to use if you give it a few minutes to evaporate the carrier solvents.......end of story !

RE: nitro
 

After 20 years of flying nitro I was suprised to read Foxy's comments and suggestions.  But he is the "expert" on cars.:eek:  I guess car engines are much more tolerant of water than airplane engines.

BTW, any air tool oil works great and the store brands are cheap.

RE: nitro
 

This is the same method I use. No rust, no problem, no ARO.

I gotta say though.....I used a generic brand vegitable oil cooking spray for two years strait on my air filters back in 2007 and 2008. Did not know any better at the time........those engines OS .18 CVR are still running perfectly today. Just my personal experiance.....

RE: nitro
 

Probably because you thought you read something that wasn't there. :eek:

And by the way, I'm no nitro expert (though I do have a good 10 years plus racing nitro and another 10 bashing it), I'm welcome to correction when I'm wrong, this isn't one of those cases however.

RE: nitro
 

Water Displacement 40th attempt. That's what that crap stands for. If you use it, more power to you. I don't use ARO because of the fuel I use. I have never had rusty bearings in 18 years of being a modeler, ever. Not even using crappy store bought fuel. Maybe I'll try putting windex in the engine instead.

I bow down to the car engine gods. Foxy and Supertib, I bow down to you. You guys are like the Wizard in The Wizard of Oz. All knowing. It's funny... I treat my car engines the same as my aircraft engines and they seem to just last and last. I must be doing something wrong. Oh yeah, I take my own advice. No wonder!

Better lock the thread, we are too far off topic. Nothing constructive is happening now, better delete a post or two as well.

Sorry, I was a jerk. :eek: [:'(]

RE: nitro
 

Call the rust police! 7 gallons of fuel, 1.5 years of storage, homemade 'red ARO crap' storage oil. ATF mixed with Seafoam motor tune at a 90/10 mix ratio. OMG look at all this rust!
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psa9698a60.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...psf9226628.jpg

The top engine had a metal to metal fit of the liner to the crankcase that leaked, I used silicone to seal it. Funny the silicone hasn't broke down from the 'red ARO crap' yet.

You guys are the experts, I'm not. Do what you like, and what works for you. I'm sorry I ever doubted your knowledge guys.

RE: nitro
 

Why can't we just tell the OP to buy after-run oil and air filter oil. You people make everything so complicated.[&:]

RE: nitro
 

I think it was one of the first posts.

RE: nitro
 

Because the OP wanted to run his car before Monday which is when his air filter oil was to be delivered. Every suggestion given to him wasn't good enough.

RE: nitro
 

I think the OP was scared off. I'm curious what he did.