Hyper 7 breakin today went bad
 

Hi guys. I was breaking in my hyper 7 today and got to my 3rd tank and my engine shut off.
I tried to start it up and notice, my pull start and flywheel won't move at all. I took the glow plug out and still won't move.
What should I do yall , send it back to the company or....?

Take the engine out of the vehicle. Take the back plate off and check to see if the rod is broken.

Did you preheat the engine and/or run it too lean. What brand of fuel was used?

did you have a temp gun....to check engine temps as you broke it in?

only time ive had a motor I couldn't turn over was when it got base flooded....but taking the glow plug out and turning it upside down and then pulling the starter would fix that.

Hi.
I had a temp gun and I was using traxxas fuel "I know I know"

Tried that to my friend. Thanks guys

I haven't used traxxas fuel myself, but even if it is not the best...it wont ruin a motor during break in.

what temps were the motor running at?

it isn't that hard to disassemble a nitro motor. if something should be broken inside, taking it apart will reveal the problem right away.

Its hard to say..... If u were doing everything 100% as per manual then send it back.... But keep in mind if there is signs of user error they might charge u a fee for inspecting it. If its a warranty related problem they pay for it to be inspected... If its user error u pay.

id maby call the place that u brought it from for instructions.... I'd hate for u to start messing with the motor making the warranty void

3rd tank 190°

The piston could just be stuck at top dead center.

Note on traxxas topfuel(the name is very misleading) main issue I had with it is it was over loaded with oil to the point it would be an oily mess. When I would run the RC you would see an oil trail coming out of the exhaust. I also had issues getting the vehicles to start swapped to odonell's and never had the issues again.

As for the engine problem could be a few things stuck at BDC, broken con rod, bushing in the conrod shatter where it would block the piston (I've had that happen once when the engine didn't get up to 270ish in breakin)

Extra oil won't hurt during break-in, I use 14-18% oil to break in most of my car engines. Having extra oil allows a leaner needle setting which gives more rpm which gives more heat which helps the engine break in. This may make my method sound crude or wrong, but it works for me very well. Even in Traxxas 3.3's. I do change over to 20-30% nitro and 8-10% oil after a half gallon or so.

So I don't think fuel is the problem per sé but fuel mixture could be suspect. Too rich on the Low could load it up and cause a hydraulic lock. Check this first, pull the plug. If the piston won't come loose after it's cooled and sat for a few hours even with the plug out, I'd hit it with a hair dryer and get the engine good and warm (hotter is better IMO) and try moving the flywheel again. If nothing still, I'd proceed to pulling the engine and inspecting. I much prefer the more simpler approach at first. Sometimes it can save a lot of time.

Just remember, you open that engine you void the warranty.

Well the engine I said that broke its brass bushing on the conrod that is actually what happened it hydrolocked(would do it a lot actually), and the roto start that I was using button got jammed(side note I threw the roto starter out a little after that). Also it never would reach proper break in temps with stock settings (it hit like 170 on a 95 degree day after 20 mins...)

If covering the head alone won't get it to heat up, you have to lean the needles down. Those OEM settings are only set to get the engine started. It's often overlooked in manuals so new guys don't always get the right information and their engine's life suffers because of it usually.

I've always had to lean the needles on my engines to get them hot enough when new.

Thanks guys.

You were right, I broke the rod. I guess I'll have to order another one this week.
Is it hard to change out/in the rods ?

Can I use another connecting rod from another engine ?

No, but make sure you didn't damage the piston or cylinder. If there are dings, you may be better off to replace the whole engine. A piston/liner, and conrod can cost 1/2-3/4 of what a whole engine costs. If you do just get the rod, get new wristpin clips for the piston. You don't really want to re-use the old ones. Replacing the rod is pretty easy and straight forward except the rod has to go on the crankshaft only one way (the side with the chamfer).