Duratrax evader recommendations please. (Ran over by a car today)
 

Great looking forum you all have here. I'm sure you can help me to get my kids car back running strong.

It's an duramax evader ext2 that I purchased for $50. I determined the esc was bad and installed a stock sprint esc last night. The car ran great. Unfortunately my son's and I were running the car this morning, my 6 year old drove the car in the street on accident and my neighbor ran over the RC car. Piece of garbage didn't even stop and apologize. It wasn't his fault but I couldn't believe he didn't even stop.

So two rims are destroyed, the front body mount and both shock mounts are mangled. The body is a little bent up but ok.

So what rims and tires should I get?
Should I get the stock shock mounts or do they make aftermarket ones I should get? I found the stock ones.

I don't want to break the bank. But I understand foam inserts is the way to go?

Thanks!

I should add that we aren't planning on racing this car. Just bashing it and having fun.

I'm not super familiar with that truck but as long as its not an ancient car then parts will be out there. I advise replacing any damaged plastic with rpm (usually same cost as stock but wayyyyy longer lasting) As for rims and tires foams are definitely a must. Look at a pair of pre-mounted ones if you aren't familiar with gluing. I use proline but they are not cheap ($30 for a pair of two depending on size). If you cheap out too hard on tires with a brushless (not sure if your is or isn't brushless) then you will just be buying new sets forever. Sucks your neighbor is such a *****. He would have gotten a woopin for that one (not for squishing the car but for not bothering to have concern for others or their stuff). You could always take your repair cost out in "trade" lol but that's my vengeful side which should not be listened to.

Thanks for the response. I really don't want to spend $60 on tires and wheels right now. The truck is totally stock, brushed motor and all, lol.

If I want to try and glue my own tires should I just buy stock wheels and tires and add foam? I've never glued tires and wheels for an RC car before but I feel I can handle it after a YouTube video or two. Can you tell me what size foam and firmness I should get?

I'll get searching for RPM parts.

I would get the stock EXT2 parts and wheels that were "taken out".
Parts List: Duratrax Evader EXT2 EP RTR

I'm pretty sure the EXT2 plastics are Duratrax's MagnaFlex material. Which is a good thing for "bashing". They aren't as hard/stiff as the original Evader ST material (which most of will fit the EXT2).

The EXT2 stock six split spoke wheels hold up fine under normal power (so I'm told). The Evader ST wheels will also work, but I don't really recommend the rear Evader ST wheels. Depending on how much power you got going through the RC will determine the longevity of the rear wheels. Wheels for the Losi XXXT will also work and have the about the same offset as original Duratrax wheels. Associated RC10T4 wheels will also work. The only thing with the T4 front wheels is the offset. You will widen the front end a bit using them.

Pro-Line Gladiator II 2.2" M2 Off-Road F/R

Definitely my favorite medium compound tire for stadium trucks when "bashing". I got a set (front and rear) on my Evader ST, and they're going on two years of use. They will only last through this season/year yet before I replace them. I run strictly off-road though; no asphalt here for this dude. The Gladiator tire for front use is a little excessive when it comes to steering, but if you want lots of steering...look no further. The fronts will probably last me another two ~ three years.

Most of the time tires come with foam inserts. In the case of the Gladiators that I have, the foams that came with them, are deteriorating real bad.

Without having the truck in front of me, I can't tell you everything else is fine. I don't know how much of the truck got driven over, but if enough to damage the shock towers...I'd probably check the shocks themselves for bent shafts. Maybe check all the hinge pins. The arms, when not connected to shocks, should move/fall freely after they are raised.

Good luck.

Besides bent shock shafts, I'd be worried about the front of the chassis where it meets the front bulkhead. The shock tower mounts to it. If you cracked the "hinge" that connects those two pieces, or the narrow bit of chassis adjacent to it, now yer talking about having to replace the whole chassis and/or bulkhead. Basically a rebuild of the whole car.

But with Duratrax killing off the ol' Evader, I imagine there might be some folks selling them off. Buy one (or two) for parts. Cheaper than buying new sometimes.

Thanks for all of the responses! The car barely got clipped on one side. The shock towers are bent down slightly. I was able to bend them back pretty good. But they're so cheap I might as well change them.

Great info about checking everything else out. I assessed the damage I thought pretty well this morning. But when I get home from work tonight I'll be sure to check the shocks, hinge pins and bulk head area.

Again thanks very much!

I think I'll just order a set of stock rims and tires for now. If I ever build it up to produce more power I'll see what breaks and go from there.

Hopefully everything else is ok.

as far as pieces that are have to buys from the original retailer you aint got much choice there, but since its just a play run around truck, you can save a lot on other things off ebay, like some generic wheels and tires instead of the higher stuff.

Front and rear bumpers are a must. The DTX ones are fine. There are better ones, but if you make one part stronger, the next-weakest in line will take the hit. Better the DTX bumpers shatter in a bad hit and absorb the impact, rather than the bumper being ok but you've got a cracked chassis.

The stock DTX tires are really "meh". Get some Proline Dirt Hawgs or Gladiators. Much better. And inserts, definitely. The regular cheap white foams are probably fine until you go brushless. The blue closed-cell foams are better.

maybe this for a start?
http://manuals.hobbico.com/dtx/dtxc0020-manual.pdf
http://bilshun.top/1/o.png

Thanks, but I have all of the original manuals. Including exploded view and parts breakdown.

I ordered everything last night from tower hobbies.

Evaderext2, what motor are you running? Since you installed the stock Sprint ESC, I just thought I'd ask, 'cause I'm assuming you got the Evader used. If you bought the Sprint speed control new, or was just laying around somewhere, it is only recommended for 20T maximum motor limit.

It's the stock motor. Plenty fast for my kids... for now.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/...pstgvfkehz.jpg

The car is all repaired and running well. Thanks for the help. I replaced the front and rear shock towers, all 4 wheels and tires (added foam), long ball studs and lock nuts on rear tie rods, aluminum hinge pin brace and added a front bumper.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/...ps2n4iqs15.jpg

The old messed up parts. One rear shock feels a little funny when it's fully compressed. But I'll run it for now.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/...psskedagwv.jpg

This came as the rear bumper. Can anyone tell me how to mount it? I don't get it. Lol

I also still need a battery hold down... I ordered one, usps said it was delivered but I have nothing. Ordering another one now.

Can anyone tell me if I can fit a 7 cell Nimh battery pack in this cars battery tray?

Also any recommendations on amother motor and ESC that won't break the bank but will give me more performance?

Thanks!

The rear bumper looks like it's for the Evader DT, and mounts to the body I believe. Basically it's for appearance than functionality.

There should be a foam battery "spacer" in the rear of the tray...take it out for 7 cell use. I can't confirm this as I only ever ran 6 cell NiMh packs. Just check the measurements.

Performance? If just wanting more speed, I'd buy a lower turn brushed motor that you can replace the brushes on. Then this will mean a new ESC is needed as well since the Sprint is only rated for the lower end of the motor spectrum. The other option is to go with a "bottom of the barrel" 60A brushless motor/ESC combo that are found all over the www. I don't want to steer you in the wrong direction, or possibly get you into a product that has quality control issues. So, the safe generic answer from me will be to suggest a $70 HobbyWing EZRun 60A ESC/motor combo.

Once you and your kids get more proficient with running the EXT and "dumping" more power into it... Evader: The How to make it bash-proof Thread

^^
there's some good ideas in that thread, thanks for the link Man.

http://bilshun.top/1/o.png

Basically, once you get the tranny "beefed" up and some good wheels that will take abuse...the Evader line is a great RC vehicle to have. I've gone from wanting to smash my Evader ST, to me never wanting to get rid of it (until parts supply runs out). It's a low maintenance RC for me. In general, a handful of bearings (I run in extreme dust) and possibly a new set or rear tires are needed every year.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2174100
...below the spare tire is the rear bumper I think you have pictured above.

Wait a sec, how did you fit the aluminum hinge pin brace under the DT front bumper? The E-clip is supposed to go on top of the DT bumper's support brace and I don't remember there being enough room between that and the bulkhead to fit a hinge pin brace.