A Guide for Beginners(Newbies Please Read)
 

Courtesy of Nitroaddict and Jeff S. -



Question: What should I use to clean my car?

Answer: Most people use either some form of Nitro Cleaner that's available at their LHS, or you can also use Denatured Alcohol in a plastic spray bottle, commonly found at hardware and home supply stores. It's also helpful to have some source for compressed air, that way you can blow your car clean and dry right away.

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Question: How often should i clean my air filter and how should i clean it?

Answer: every 5 tanks or when it looks like it needs it and you can wash it in soapy water or with nitro fuel then reapply air filter oil.

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Question: Why is it not a good idea to wash an airfilter element?

Answer: Because you can actually wash dirt into the foam element where it will get sucked into the engine.

Remedy: Never wash foam elements, always replace.

Exception: It is okay to wash the outer foam on a two stage air filter, but never the inner.

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Question: How do i know if my engine is too hot?

Answer: There should be a nice stream of smoke coming out your exhaust. Better yet, buy a temp gun and make sure your engine is running bewteen 220f - 260f degrees. Always run on the rich side, unless you like replacing engines.

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Question: Should I glue the tires on to the rims?

Answer: You bet, the easiest cheapest way of getting more performance out of your tires, is by glueing them using the glue supplied by your LHS, to your rims. Hey, you may have to buy new rims for every pair of tires, but hey when you try it will be worth it.

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Question: What is the difference between kit and RTR

Answer: Kits usually come with better parts, but sometimes dont include engine and radio. RTR's compensate parts for labor, since they come assembeled. an example of this is the NTC3. the kit dosnt include radio or engine, but includes aluminium threaded shocks, a two speed, and better tires. kits let you see how the car goes together, and helps you when you break something, since you know what does what. Many people have different opinions in this topic, so its up to you to decide.

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Question: How do I know when(/what)to buy high performance parts for my car?

Answer: Ask lots of questions from people with different views on the part/upgrade to be made.

When: Once you can outdrive(often confused with not being able to) your current car setup, or if you have broken the part. Too often newbies think they have to have the best out there to do better, which is often not the case.

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Question: What is a good break-in procedure for my new engine?

Answer: OK, here goes. The first procedure is called "heat cycling", this is the most important part of break-in and almost no one does it. Start the engine and let it idle, after 1-2 minutes feel the cylinder head, you want it to be hot enough so you can't grab on to it for more than 10 seconds at the base of the head. Stop the engine, make sure the piston is at the bottom of the stroke, let it completely cool down, back to stone cold. Repeat this process at least 10 times !!! I usually dedicate the first tank of fuel to this process. It's going to take some time to do this so be patient.

Now you can take it out and run it. Open the main needle one full turn. The next 4 tanks, run at no more than 1/2 throttle and vary the speed up and down. Let it completely cool down between runs and always make sure the piston is at the bottom of the stroke while it is cooling. Try to run the engine in the 200 degree range during this period.

Now 4 more tanks running up to 3/4 throttle, run it in the same manner as before.

Now you can go wide open, make sure to run it on the rich side for another 6 tanks. Don't try to grab a lot of ponies yet. ( this is easier said than done !!)

Now you can let it rip. These engines run best at temps 220 to 240 degrees. There should always be a VISABLE line of smoke coming from the exhaust stinger.

Good luck with your break-in. Take your time and do it right and you will be rewarded with an engine that runs stronger and lasts longer than you have ever seen.

NOTE: For all high performance engines - the Rody Roem Heat Cycle break in process is the best method. Here is how it is done -

Per Rody himself - Also there are some things I personally do not do is for example start the engine with an electric starter and this you have to do with a Hudy bench if you do not take off the protection. I of course cannot tell you to take of the protection for safety reasons.

Anyway, if you still want to do it in this way, I think in this way you cannot do a lot of things wrong.
So before you start to run in an engine I suggest you cover the cooling-head with something so the engine heats-up properly(without the cover the engine will stay too cold).
Then start the engine and let it run rich at full throttle for 2-tanks at a temperature of about 80°C.
Then 2 more tanks at 90°C.
Then 1 more tank at 100°C.

After this your engine is almost run-in, however you need to finish the rest of the running-in in the car for about 2 more tanks and you are then ready to go.

Hope this helps you further.

Sorry for the poor English, but Rody is french, and these are his exact words

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Question: How should i stop the engine on my car?

Answer: there are a couple ways, which are, pinching the fuel line, plugging the exaust and stopping the flywheel with your shoe. stopping the flywheel with your thumb is the best way, since it neither floods the engine or drains it. just be sure to leave the piston at the bottom of the stroke.

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Question: What are some things I should do when I get my new car?

Answer:
Read the book.
Double check the tightness of the screws.
Glue your tires.
Install batteries.
Make sure the body has good airflow. (ie holes cut in front and back windshields.)
Make sure the airfilter is oiled and properly attached.
Check both servos (Makes sure the brake properly applies, etc)
Check your needle and throttle screws. (Even if the book says they're set right)
Check the trim on your radio. (You may set the throttle screw to the right gap but the radio trim may open it up for you so double check the trims.)
Review all material you can find on breakin (ie. the posts above)
Start PATIENTLY breaking it in.
Many people recomend using 10-20% nitro for breakins and to stick with that fuel for the life of the engine. Special breakin fuel should not be needed.

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Question: How can I check my speed?

Answer: A Radar would be nice. But a stop watch is cheaper. The method below is used by law enforcement. Its called VASCAR.
Measure off an Area. A couple hundred feet would be nice :D. You can measure off whatever you can but due to human reaction times, the smaller the area, the less accurate your measurement will be. Then have a friend with a timer (so you can concentrate on driving) stand at the first line and another friend on the end line. Start your car back so you can get to top speed. When it crosses the first line the timer starts. When it passes the finish, your other friend signals so the timer knows when to stop. For double checking both friends can have timers. Finally you do a little math. (After you get your car to stop ;) The formula is (Distance in feet/Time in seconds)*0.681818. For instance say your course is 300feet and your time was 3.099 seconds. Your speed would be (300/3.099)*0.681818 = 66MPH!!!. You're all done. You may want to take several measurements and average your results. Enjoy

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Question: Where can I find information to tune my engine???

Answer: This site will help out newbies alot when they tune their engine http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/super_tune.asp

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Question: What's something that I can do when I get my car to prevent lost screws and broken parts?

Answer: Whether it's an RTR, or a kit, remove any screws that go into metal and apply threadlock. Some companies do this at the factory, some don't. The only way to make sure that it's done, is to do it yourself. This stops the screws from being vibrated out. I know from personal experiences, 2 lost carb screws, and 1 lost engine mount screw.

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Question: Are 2 bottles of the same fuel alike?

Answer: I broke in my NTC3 I got on a gallon jug of Blue Thunder 20% I already had. The gallon jug was maybe a little over 3/4 full when I started using it in the NTC3. It was maybe 3 months old.
That jug finally ran out and I just bought a new gallon of the stuff.

My NTC3 ran horrible on the new stuff. I never thought it was the fuel. I thought it was the 90 degree heat here.

I also decided to fire up the RC10 GT and it was not only hard to start but did the same thing the NTC3 did. Quit running while there was still fuel in the tank. Had to richen the heck out of both of them. Again, I thought it was because it was 90 degrees here. In this heat, leaning out the high speed needle was the correct thing to do but that was not the problem. I also replaced the glow plugs.

It was the new fuel.

My point is that while Blue Thunder is a great and quality fuel and I am going to continue to use it in my NTC3 and the RC10 GT, no two jugs of fuel are the same and when you get a new bottle of fuel,

CHECK THE ENGINE TEMPS!

I was so lean I am surprised I did not melt down the engines. And yes there was smoke coming out of the pipes.

Guys I race with use O'Donell, Trinity and other top quality brands and they have experienced at times the same problem I did when they get new fuel of the same brand. No bash on the fuel suppliers meant either.

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Question: Which is better 2WD or 4WD?

Answer: A 2WD is easier to maintain and cost less to purchase, but it will take more time to learn how to handle your truck in turns. A 4WD will give power and traction in these turns, but the draw back is the cost and maintenance.

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"Reading your Glowplug"


Keeping an Eye on your glowplug will help you to understand how you should adjust your carburation.

1) Take the glowplug out and look at the coil element :
if the spiral is a little bit pressed and bent it means that the engine has too much compression. If you are racing on a sea level track, with 25% or more nitro this could be the main reason. Than you need to check underhead shims and insert a tenth.

2) If the coil element has a dull, as if it were sanded, it means that the carburation is too lean (lack of fuel) and you can damage the engine. You run the risk to break the coil element and make it fall down on the top end of the piston, damaging the piston/sleeve. In this case, you should replace the old Plug with a new plug and richen the High Speed needle 1/8th.

3) If the thread has a dark colour and the plug seems wet, the carburation is too rich and the engine isn't running at optimal power. You have to lean the carburation closing the High speed needle.

4) When the coil element is polished and the spiral does not present any imperfections, your engine carburation is most likely spot on.

This, along with increased experience in learning the "Sounds" of a glow engine and use of a quality temperature guage, will make you an Ace at tuning your engine... Tuning your Models engine is not "rocket science" and is fairly easy once you completely understand the how the carb works and the effects it has on your engines performance and sound. With some time and experience, it will become second nature to you... just be patient and perseptive and the knowledge you gain will take the voodoo out of this great hobby! Enjoy...

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Question: What should i use to clean my car?

Answer: Denatured alcohol works great, like a degreaser. Just be sure you don't get any on electronics.

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Question: What to do if your air filter flies off your car when your driveing body on or off.

Answer: Immdeiatly shut the motor off. Since some dirt might of gotinto the engine and could kill your motor and make you have to rebuildit so. Kill the motor. Take of the carb. Prey nothing gotinto your motor. Put somenitro into a old cup and put your carb in there. Let it soak for a little bit. That should get out the dirt. Or you could blow out ur carb with a air compressor. Both ways work. Don't be lazy and keep on driveing because your to lazy to clean your carb.

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Question: What are some good hop-ups for my car?

Answer: Well this could easily vary, but hardened differentials, a steel spur gear and clutchbell if you want long lasting parts, although you will need a hardened clutchbell as well or you'll possibly strip the clutchbell, titanium turnbuckels, aluminum hub carriers, aluminim knuckles, 2 speed transmission (on-roads)

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Question: What one should do after crash and there is no obvirous damage reported?

Answer: You might find the car not going/running the way it was before the crash. Should check the alignments, bent metal parts, should loosen the screws and tide them up again. Should do it after crash or running the car for a whole day and when you found your car's handling become strange. Crash and the vibration/shocks your car "absorbed" might affect the alignemnt of your car as well as breaking your cat's parts.

orignally posted in nitrorc and rcnitrotalk

RE: A Guide for Beginners(Newbies Please Read)
 

thank you thank you

now maby the noobs will use this thread instead of asking the same Q's over and over


thanks again:D:);)

RE: A Guide for Beginners(Newbies Please Read)
 

no problem Lynx - it was primarily designed to help newcomers to the hobby - but also give the veterans some break in the repetitive questions as well.

RE: A Guide for Beginners(Newbies Please Read)
 

In the first paragraph of the break in precedure in the line
"you want it to be hot enough so you can't grab on to it for more than 10 seconds........"
What temp would this be?????????

RE: A Guide for Beginners(Newbies Please Read)
 

about 80C

RE: A Guide for Beginners(Newbies Please Read)
 

Idling is the worst thing you can do. It wont reach the temp it is designed to that way and that will wear it out more. See my response in the Savage forum:

So to answer more specifically yes go WOT- wide open throttle, after it warms up. By going to half or 3/4 the engine will not generate as much heat and therefore it can wear prematurely/excessively during these first semi-critical runs because the metals dont expand as designed to. An aside, these ABC type engines were initially designed to run at WOT all the time. They never had a carb that had any sort of throttling action. But of course modelers want throttling carbs and these days they are feasible. But the basic concept and design of the simple ABC/ABN engine is that it is in its ideal running/designed condition when running WOT

SH BYA, that is really the wrong method. the engine should not be allowed to idle at all after it warms up. yes, even though it is brand new. heat cycling is the name of the game for breakin. abc/abn engines are made to run at temperature, not cool because thats what wears out the piston/sleeve fit. idling it will wear it out for sure. when it idles it doesnt get up to temp and the piston and sleeve cant expand to the fit it was designed to. this makes it wear prematurely. people that say dont go past 1/4 throttle for the first tank, then not past 1/2, etc. on second is totally inaccurate. I thought that was right at one time too. after it warms up briefly going to WOT wide open throttle is the best thing for the engine for about 2-3 min runs. then let cool down totally and repeat several times. as long as it is a little rich, and not too lean then WOT wont hurt a thing when brand new. it will help and it's the proper way to do it. check out these posts.

Read it directly from OS website. they know for sure:

http://www.osengines.com/faq/product-faq.html#q590

The following is directly from that page on OS website:

"How Do I Break In My R/C Car Engine?

The break in process of model engines, especially R/C car engines has been affected by a wide variety of myths and misconceptions. The main one is that the engine must be run at idle for several tanks' worth of fuel before the model is run. There is nothing farther from the truth! In fact, running the engine at idle for several tanks' worth of fuel will not only insure that your engine won't break in properly, but it could also reduce its overall life!

The purpose of the break-in process is to run the engine so that its moving parts will polish each other to a perfect fit. This requires that the engine be run at a variety of throttle settings so that the different parts will be affected by changing pressures and temperatures.

Typically, we start out with a moderately rich needle setting and start driving the car right away. We accelerate to a medium speed and then coast. Turn around and come back the same way. If the high-speed needle is so rich that the engine tends to hesitate a lot when throttle is applied, we'll lean it a bit to eliminate most of the hesitation.

After a few minutes of this, we start accelerating to a high speed and then coast. Turn around and come back the same way. We do this for the remainder of the first tank.

During the next two to three tanks' worth of running, we gradually lean the high-speed needle valve until the engine will run at full throttle at a setting just rich of peak RPM. One way to tell that the engine is on the rich side of peak RPM is to accelerate to full throttle and carefully listen to the engine. It should accelerate up and hold RPM, and not sag back down.

With the CV-series of engines, we'll set the high-speed needle about 2-1/4 turns open and lean from there. When fully leaned, the needle will be between 1-3/4 to 2 turns out from closed. The engine may still run with a leaner setting on the needle, but that setting may be lean enough to allow the engine to gradually overheat and quit. An overheat is a bad thing, and it will cause the piston/cylinder fit to go bad very quickly. "Thermal overload" is just another term for overheating.

If the engine is set too lean, the engine's internal parts can be damaged because they'll be starved of lubrication. Remember, the engine's lubrication is contained in the fuel, and a too-lean setting means too little fuel, which translates into too little lubrication.

Finally, O.S. states in their engine instructions that you should use a fuel that has an oil content of no less than 18% by volume. Many so-called "R/C Car" fuels contain oil in the 12%-14% range. While these may work quite well when the engine's set correctly, low-oil fuels do not leave much margin of error if the engine gets a lean run. Nitro content can be as high as 20% by volume without worry about special engine tuning or setup."--OS Engines


look at my posts in this thread too. even though it is for airplane engines, all abc/abn (non ringed) engines are the same:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/How_...1369094/tm.htm

If you guys really want to learn engines, read Dave Gierke who is in RCCA and RC Nitro sometimes.

RE: A Guide for Beginners(Newbies Please Read)
 

How come OS dont say this in their instruction manuals????? ive just got a new .12TR 4 my V-one RR and now im compleatly confused as to how to break it in[&:][&:][&:][&:] also wat temp should the egine be in break in?????????????????

RE: A Guide for Beginners(Newbies Please Read)
 

Well OS is funny with the instructions. Someone asked the same thing in the airplane engine section and the guy "Bax" from OS engine repair posts there regularly to give warranty info and engine operation tips, etc. he said most of the time the OS book instructions are not ideal. He said idling is the worst thing you can do. And he recommends to follow the info on the OS website page; I posted that info from OS in my above post. follow that and you will be fine. run it rich but not so rich that it makes a "burbling" sound or a hesitant sound. that means it is "4 stroking" (way too rich) which is firing on every other stroke. that meakes it run cold and the breakin will have no value. start running the car rich (not overly rich) and drive it around and you can go to full throttle for many times. then let the engine cool down and then start it up and do the same 3-4 minute runs. when you let it cool down make sure the piston is not in the compression part of the stroke because it may get stuck there when the sleeve cools and contracts. pull the engine through compression and when it is past compression let it cool down in that spot. you will get the feel and hang of it after a while.

the info in Nitroaddicts above post is wrong for breakin. he says to heat cycle it by idling initially. that will do nothing but wear out your piston and sleeve. this is because when idling it cant possibly get hot enough to have any worthwile effect and therefore it is not getting "heat cycled" at all. heat cycling has to be getting it up to normal running temp. lower than that is more harmful. by running it cold by idling the sleeve wont expand enough and it will wear with the piston. and the stuff he says about not going above half throttle is just as wrong. just do like in the above OS post info.As far as why people believe and tell you to idle an engine is because they don't understand how it works and they don't understand the operating charasteristics. They probably think the engine has to be run gently, slowly and generally easily to not stress it when it is new. So they say idle it and don't let the rpm go up. (for many 4 stroke engines and 2 stroke ringed engines this is correct. but not abc/abn non-ringed engines.) This method would make sense for maybe an automobile engine that runs and is built completely different. But to baby a 2 stroke abc/abn engine with low rpm when new doesn't apply.


But the truth is that an abc/abn engine has a piston and sleeve and it expands to the proper "fit" when it is at full or high throttle. It doesn't have a piston ring to seal for compression, it relies on this piston/sleeve fit or "taper" for compression. And breakin you want to preserve that piston/sleeve fit. When it is let idle or low rpm, even after it is broken in, it will wear more and faster when idling because it doesn't generate the sufficient heat to expand the piston and sleeve to the proper fit. That is why idling is so bad. Idling will wear out that piston/sleeve fit faster than regular use of the engine. And OS says it on their site.

As far as why people believe and tell you to idle an engine is because they don't understand how it works and they don't understand the operating charasteristics. They probably think the engine has to be run gently, slowly and generally easily to not stress it when it is new. So they say idle it and don't let the rpm go up. (for many 4 stroke engines and 2 stroke ringed engines this is correct. but not abc/abn non-ringed engines.) This method would make sense for maybe an automobile engine that runs and is built completely different. But to baby a 2 stroke abc/abn engine with low rpm when new doesn't apply. Also, abc/abn airplane engines are the same as car engines mostly. The breakin/heat cycle for them is done at WOT on a test stand for 2-3 minute runs. You wont find one airplane guy foolish enough to idle an abc/abn nitro engine on breakin. After it is allowed to warm up for 20-30 seconds, it is run WOT rich, not overly rich and leaned out some after each 2-3 min run. Break em in fast and they'll be fast, break em in slow and they'll be slow.

By going to half or 3/4 the engine will not generate as much heat and therefore it can wear prematurely/excessively during these first semi-critical runs because the metals dont expand as designed to. An aside, these ABC type engines were initially designed to run at WOT all the time. They never had a carb that had any sort of throttling action. But of course modelers want throttling carbs and these days they are feasible. But the basic concept and design of the simple ABC/ABN engine is that it is in its ideal running/designed condition when running WOT.

(of course 2Cycle ringed and 4 Stroke engines call for different breakin methods- one size doesnt fit all designs)


http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/How_...1369094/tm.htm

RE: A Guide for Beginners(Newbies Please Read)
 

So should i still follow the carb needle settings in teh OS manual. 2 turns out on teh needle valve and 2 and 1/2 turns in from flush on the mixture controll. Whhich is wat it says in the manual??????????????????????????????????????
Thxs 4 the help

RE: A Guide for Beginners(Newbies Please Read)
 

yeah follow those setting.

RE: A Guide for Beginners(Newbies Please Read)
 

shoestring, you mention that my info is wrong, yet it is directly quoted from the World Champion, Rody Roem himself. This is also directly taken as a quote from the RB Concepts webpage as well as their instructions.

RE: A Guide for Beginners(Newbies Please Read)
 

i know but you have two different methods listed. the top one and the Rody method lower in the post that says full throttle, no idling. I was referring to the top part of your sticky directions which say to idle the engine and then go to 1/4 throttle for a tank, then 1/2 later tanks after that. that is the wrong part. it is better to go high throttle for all the reasons i say in my posts, the OS info, and my linked posts, and to linked posts in airplane forums which go into great detail about abc/abn non ringed engines and engine operating charasteristics. I just now even saw a post elsewhere by Stephen Bess from RCCA saying how important it is to get the engine running up to temp and not letting it idle in order to not degrade/wear the piston/sleeve by letting it run cool/idle. thats just the part I am differing on. 1/4 then 1/2 throttle is more harmful and not that proper method. prolonged idling is the sure death of a nitro engine, at least premature death.

RE: A Guide for Beginners(Newbies Please Read)
 

The first method is generally the most commonly used and mentioned break in process. I personally agree that the std heat cycle break in that Rody uses is better, however - for most people, the std breakin is what they know.

RE: A Guide for Beginners(Newbies Please Read)
 

well I dont want to make a huge production. but anyway here is a post I found that appears to have been written by Steve Bess in regard to idling an engine. looks like he likes Rody too:

"Heres the Heat Cycle Method, posted by Stephen Bess, for anyone who's interested. Also, even though he lists OS a lot (this was posted in an OS thread), it works on pretty much all engines that are ABC or ABN non-ringed.

"Ryan, I guessed correctly, you were idling at least a tank through as
that's the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but
it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey,
Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with
about this) recommend anymore.

From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the
ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals,
tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a
normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool
completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue
this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4
minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in
the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the
incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's
overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this mannerfor about
20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I
realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box"
routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in
routine, your OS will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the
top AND your OS's compression will last far longer than it will with
your method.

You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE
tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory OS settings
are very rich on every OS I've ever owned or tuned. The piston &
sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine
turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-
surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's
where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over.
I've only heard of about 6-8 OS engines breaking con-rods, and they're
ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the
guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem
like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in
routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression
along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every
step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your
engine's performance & lifespan.

Hope this helps; give this break-in method a shot--you have nothing to
gain except longer life & more power "

RE: A Guide for Beginners(Newbies Please Read)
 

THANKS... this post really help me to understand a lot of things. I don't think I broke my X-Cellerator in properly... is there anyway to "start over" or has the damage already been done.

-US_Armor

RE: A Guide for Beginners(Newbies Please Read)
 

No, once the engine has been used several times it can't be 'reversed' and "re-broken in". the only way to do that is to replace the piston and sleeve. Don't do that unless the engine is totally worn out or wrecked from overly improper usage. if it runs and works ok get the most out of it that you can before you replace the piston and sleeve.

RE: A Guide for Beginners(Newbies Please Read)
 

i hav a problem i smashed up my car on the first run the bumper has snaped off, the wheel frame has snaped off and the exhaust pipe has snaped aswell how much do you think it would cost to repair

RE: A Guide for Beginners(Newbies Please Read)
 

depends on the make of ure car and exhaust ..... exhaust woudl probaly cos the most dpending on what type it is but the other 2 metions wouldnt cost any more than £10-£15 here in england

RE: A Guide for Beginners(Newbies Please Read)
 

you guys gotta stop. anyway newer types. run that b#tch rich and pull that throttle wide the funk open (preferably not under load). I dish my own motors and I will tell you forget that rccar action 1/4 1/2 3/4 crap, it only wears the compression down. if you did it that way, no biggie, you probobly arent racing at national level anyway, does it really matter if your tc3 hits a wall at 45 or 50, not really you get the same thing.

by not under load I mean the first time you have that thing blasting, tune it rich and do not hook the drivetrain up, just mount the engine to the chassis, and leave the carb open.

hooking it to the drivetrain means that you are going to be on and off the throttle, we dont want that.

ps if you want to go real fast, take a dremmel and make your intake port about 3mm larger.

if that isnt fast enough, strap a Zenoah gas in there, hey with mods it can happen and you wont have to worry about all this break in junk.

RE: A Guide for Beginners(Newbies Please Read)
 

Can I check,

It says to wash your air filter then re-oil it? What oil should I use? Must it be specific air filter oil?

The next point says don't wash your air filter? Unless it is a 2 stage. So If I just have one block of foam on the Hyper 7 Air Filter then I should not wash it? How do I clean it then?

Also I am having trouble starting the HYper 7 PBS on its starting box due to the high engine compression. Did I read I can open the glow plug a bit then start the engine and then re-tighten the glow plug?

Thanks, Rich

RE: A Guide for Beginners(Newbies Please Read)
 

aerotec - it is always recommended never to wash an air filter, just replace. This is due to the fact that when u wash an air filter, the dirt particles get embedded into the foam and have a greater chanve of destroying the engine. Hoiwever, I know that not everyone can afford to continuously replace airfilters, so washing them can be done if you are on a budget. just make sure u blow them out in reverse to send particles away from the inside of the filter. the hyper 7 starter box is known to be a little weak. Yes, you can loosen the plug a few turns to help get the engine running, then tighten in back down.

RE: A Guide for Beginners(Newbies Please Read)
 

Great, I will try the loosening of the plug and will order up some new filters. I have just ordered a new Starter Box Rubber Wheel and a Flywheel as the buggy I got secomd hand and they are both worn. I don't think the guy has run in the engine yet as he only had it 4 weeks! Looks like the rubber has just worn part of the flywheel and not actually been turning the engine over!

Rich

RE: A Guide for Beginners(Newbies Please Read)
 

every time i start my car i must try 70~90 times then it starts what is the problem ??

RE: A Guide for Beginners(Newbies Please Read)
 

what type of vehicle is it? Most of the time, if it is hard to start, it can be attributed to either not enough fuel, or a bad glow plug.

RE: A Guide for Beginners(Newbies Please Read)
 

check your fuel lines and tank for air leaks, take the head off your moter does it look worn out? are your needle settings so low they dont allow much fuel in. (one way to check this is to dump some fuel into the carb and see if it starts then. this not starting could also be a factor of the engine being new and still pretty tight (pixy's are natorious for this as are rossi's) are you pull starting or do you have a box? does your glow starter have a meter?

give us more rope, we'll help you out (or at least hang ourselfs)

dont take the lack of spelling as a sign of ignorance. I do know what I am talking about