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- RC Car General Discussions (https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-car-general-discussions-179/)

- - p2k (https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-car-general-discussions-179/3710640-p2k.html)

how fast will my p2k engine go i put it into my RC10T4 electric team associated truck, it has 27 turn and 22 awg wire... hmm im just wondering what the top speed i can get out of it cause i drove it and it doesnt seem its much faster than the stock factory one
anyone help?

well more turns = less power, longer runtime. less turns = more power, shorter runtimes. more winds = more power etc. if your truck had a stock motor with less turns, yes, the p2k, though a great motor, will be the same if not slower. on the other hand, the p2k is a high quality motor, probably alot better than the cheap stocker, so the speed may be fairly close simply because of quality. p2k is a good motor for rc drifting...

The stock factory motor is 15 turn motor. For a 27 to be as fast it has to be a far superior motor (which it is) - a lower turn motor should theoretically turn much higher RPMs (while a lower turn motor will have more torque). To get more speed you will need to gear up (put a pinion gear with more teeth on the motor) - the higher torque P2K should pull more speed easily. Make sure you don't set the gear mesh too tight - there should be just a little play between the pinion gear and the spur gear. One post I saw had a good idea in it - stick a couple of strips of paper between the pinion and the spur, push it in tight and tighten the motor in, then pull them out. (If I could remember who wrote that advice I'd credit you - soory for my defective memory.)

You should only go up 1 or maybe 2 teeth at a time and make sure to check how hot the motor and esc get when you run after each step up - at some point you will overgear the motor and everything will start getting too hot. If you can still hold the motor and hold your finger on the ESC without getting oncomfortably hot at the end of a run you'll be OK. A couple of extra pinion gears are much cheaper than burning up you motor and ESC. Remember that getting more top end means getting less out of the hole torque.

The upside is that your runtimes should be far longer and you should still see some increase in performance. If you still want more speed (and you aren't going to race in a stock class where you have to run a 27 turn motor) you can always step up to a Reedy Quad Magnet 19 turn - they are an excellent combination of speed and torque.

hey guys thanks for all the help, and i also notice that sometimes ill be going and then the throttle just wont work anymore and ill have to actually go up and push it again to start working... its kinda wierd. How much is the reedy 19t motor and is their a link because i have spent alot of money on some lights,tools,toolboxes, and a stand so some of my money is there and i got a 50 right now but i can probably get more or my parents could help me but as long as its below $100.
Thanks,
Andrew.
EDIT:
Also it will just randomally switch to reverse, like ill be going and it will stop then i will go and it will be in reverse (i push forward on the TH and it will go backward) and its really annoying, sometimes it also happens when i turn it on..

The [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFBH5&P=0]Reedy[/link] - like most of the other motors we tend to recommend here - is about $40. If you clean it out once in a while it will last you a long time. A can of motor spray is about $5 and should last you quite a while - spray out the motor every couple of runs in the dusty conditions that a buggy usually sees and keep it lubed. Don't get oil on the comm where the brushes contact or it will arc - just a tiny drop at each end bearing after you spray it out - too much oil will just give the dirt something to stick to.

It's rebuildable so you can have the comm cut and the brushes replaced when the performance starts falling off - most shops will cut the comm for about $5 - 10 and the brushes can cost anywhere from $5 - 15 depending on what you choose. For long life I would suggest the [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJUP8&P=0]Trinity Lemans XXX brushes [/link] - they have a high silver content so they conduct a lot of energy but they are hard enough to wear for a long time - they last about 3 to 4 times as long as normal brushes for me and I really like to not have to work on the motor regularly (lazy, ain't I?). You will probably get 20 - 30 runs between comm cuts and the comm can be cut quite a few times so you can probably get a couple of years of bashing or racing out of it before you need another. If you go too long between comm cuts the comm will get out of round and everything will wear faster - no big deal but the performance falls off pretty fast at that point.

As far as the glitching - it sounds like your P2K doesn't have the [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJY65&P=0]capacitors[/link] on it. The older P2Ks didn't come with caps preinstalled - the new ones have the surface mount caps (tiny little 5 x 8 millimeter tan things with silver end caps). If they aren't there then you need three 0.1 uFd (microfarad) 100 volt capacitors - follow the link or get them from any electronics store or most Radio Shacks. They go on this way: 1 from + to - on the motor, 1 from + to the can, and one from - to the can (the can being the case of the motor). The ESC may glitch without them and that will create radio interference too.

The problem could also be caused by loose electrical connections - check that all of your battery and motor connections are tight. Also check that you antenna wire on the chassis isn't crimped or damaged anywhere and that it isn't running up against the ESC or the servo - that, too, can cause interference. If that doesn't cure it start a new thread about your glitching problem and we will try to help you figure it out.

Before you give up on the P2K try gearing it up. You can probably go up 2 - 3 teeth and maybe more from the factory gear for the 15 turn stocker that came with it before it gets too hot and that will make quite a difference in speed.

Just out of curiosity - what batteries and charger do you have?

Thank You that was quite helpful and i currently have the venom batteries (2) and i have the prophet plus charger. I am charging them at 1 amp but last night i tried one of them on 2 amp which i think might be better but how long should it take to charge? also the capacitators.. the p2k doesnt come with them pre-installed, well if i were to buy the remedy would it come installed? and how fast could i get the remedy to go up to.. and also what do you mean by gearing up my current p2k motor, i just started this car hobby and it is so awesome i love it so much and i am always working on my car but i just dont know what gearing it up means like how would i do it just adjust how far the pinion is away from the gear or what?
Thanks,
Andrew.

How long they will take to charge depends on the rating of the batteries (venom make several different ratings). The way to figure it out is to divide the mah (milliamp hour) rating by 1000 to get the amp rating then divide that by the charge rate. (For example a 3000 MAH battery = a 3 amp hour battery - divide that by 2 amps per hour and it should take an hour and a half to charge.)

The new P2K's have the caps (the little tan things I described in the previous post - look for them - if you just got the motor it probably has them) but the old ones don't (mine didn't have them but they are 2+ years old). The Reedy already has them too.

As far as gearing up what that means is taking off the gear that is on the motor and putting on one with more teeth. I copied the following from my ealier post in this thread (third from the top) - if you need more clarification let me know. Make sure you don't set the gear mesh too tight - there should be just a little play between the pinion gear and the spur gear. One post I saw had a good idea in it - stick a couple of strips of paper between the pinion and the spur, push it in tight and tighten the motor in, then pull them out. (If I could remember who wrote that advice I'd credit you - soory for my defective memory.)

When I said push in tight I meant to push the pinion (the metal gear on the motor) sideways against the Spur gear (the plastic gear on the truck). Just snug is all it needs to be - you don't want the motor shaft or the plastic gear to flex when you push. I've never worked on a T4 so I'm not sure how the spacing adjustment works but the Team Associated website has the manuals online if you don't have the originals so you can look at the instructions and an exploded drawing of the truck there. you should be able to just barely move the spur gear (the big plastic one) back and forth without the spur gear moving. If you set the mesh too tight the gears will run noisy and the motor will get hot. It's not the end of the world if you get it too tight the first time - just adjust it again until you get it right. Just don't run for extended periods and burn up the motor that way. If you set it too loose you could strip the spur gear - I'm making this sound harder than it is - sorry - but in reality you've got a fair chunk of leeway.

I do tend to get a bit wordy, don't I? Maybe I should write a book (oh, wait, been there - done that - didn't get it published).

So if i were to use this motor, [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFBH5&P=0]Motor[/link] so anyways what would be the top speed i can get out of that on my electric T4 for associated and would the motor fit? also i currently have the p2k running and for me its just not enough speed i just dont like it, so i want to go with the reedy, and would there be anything i would have to buy for it like any extra parts? oil some spray cans or anything to make it last as long as possible?
Thank
Andrew.

Hey your a really helpful person :]
I have a $50 visa card that i got for christmas and i might just upgrade to the new reedy motor.. if they have it at my lhs im sure they will and i will call in advance, now the only thing i want is speed.. I JUST LOVE SPEED

Yes, it will fit (it's the same one I linked to) and the Reedy will be faster than your P2K - how much depends on gearing (yeah, I know - he' talking about gearing again - doesn't he ever quit that?) but the truth is the gearing for every motor will be a little different to get the best out of it. I own on-road (TC3) so I don't have experience with the T4 directly but I saw that someone else answered that in one of the other threads on this same subject. (Have you tried re-gearing yet? - it'll only cost you a couple of buck to try it out.)

As far as what you need and maintenance here, again, is something copied from earlier in this thread. A can of motor spray is about $5 and should last you quite a while - spray out the motor every couple of runs in the dusty conditions that a buggy usually sees and keep it lubed. Don't get oil on the comm where the brushes contact or it will arc - just a tiny drop at each end bearing after you spray it out - too much oil will just give the dirt something to stick to. Your LHS can also go over all of this with you in person (if they will - as another thread notes customer service varies greatly from store to store - I'm lucky in that the guys at my shop are quite helpful - I hope you have the same luck. This stuff is much easier face to face than over a forum.

If it's real speed you want you'd be better to start saving money toward a brushless system. They are initially expensive but there is very little maintenance and they really fly compared to a 27 or a 19 turn. Try using the search function to look for brushless threads here - it's been discussed extensively. Be aware that the faster it goes the faster it will suck up your batteries.

Yea since im still quite a noob i will save up for a brushless system another time, i just want the reedy well ive heard great things about it, im still considering wether i will buy the motor online or the hobby shop, ill have to call them and ask them as of right now i have only $50.I am still wondering though how fast the reedy will go because the p2k well i still dont want to give up on it but i have to buy those capacitators which i dont know how to do and its just a pain and plus i want to upgrade as said in earlier posts, i just want SPEED hehe i love it and i just love to see my cars go fast :]

good news i guess i just bought
Associated Reedy Spec 19T Quad Magnet Motor 1 37.99
Trinity Golden No Solder Leads (2) 1 4.79

those will both fit my T4 right? and also i will be just running it on my street for the first few times so i dont think any dirt will get into the engine like running it in the dirt track will so i wont need the spray(right now) but i will buy it the next time i go to my hobby shop.

also 22awg wire? you should be running no less than 16 preferably 14. That is what I run. 22 is pretty darn small which will cause more resisitance and less current flow.

yeah well it said 27t and 22 awg wire. is the awg wire bad, like should it be lower like 16 or something and causing less current flow reduces power which i dont want..

The 22 awg is the gauge of wire the motor is wound with (the lower the number the thicker the wire) - you'd never get 27 turns of 14 gauge wire on an armature.