cbow

After a long hiatus, I'm trying to get my old RC cars running. I have a Team Associated SC 10 from about 2006 or 08, 2WD, Brushed Motor. Also have a Prophet Plus battery charger with Traxxas plug. (ac/dc 4 -to- 7 cell Ni-Cd and Ni-MH Peak Prediction Fast Charger for 7.2 - 8.4V Sub-C and Ni-MH Battery Packs)

I think there is room in the battery box for an 8-cell but I'm not sure if the charger is correct for 8 cell, or if that would fry something, or if such a pack is available.

Just ordered a 7.2 volt 5000 Ni-MH with Traxxas adapter.

A LiPo battery for this rig might be nice, but will need a charger and correct size battery pack. I don't understand how to convert this car to LiPo without frying the motor or speed controller.

Might someone comment on the efficacy of going the LiPo route since I will neither Race nor Bash this car.

Also have a Team Associated AE 1:8 scale 4WD electric Buggy (06/08) without motor, speed controller or servos. For this car I wouldn't mind LiPo and charger to match the appropriate motor / speed controller.

Right now I just want to run the SC 10 on new Ni-Mh battery pack and perhaps in the future get the SC 8 running. Might need to get a new radio controller that will work on both cars.

Comments on things to check on the SC 10 before running, would be appreciated.

Thanks, cbow

RustyUs

Not sure what speed control you have, but more than likely it'll handle a two cell (2S) LiPo battery just fine. The only thing you would have to worry about is draining a LiPo battery's cells too low. Your speed control, unless it's really old, should have a setting for NIMh, or LiPo batteries. Switching the ESC's battery low voltage cutoff (LVC) to the LiPo battery mode is normally done with a jumper plug, or through a ESC programming box. You want to be sure LVC is enabled during use of LiPo batteries.

RustyUs

If looking to be in the hobby any length of time, and needing to purchase new batteries... I'd definitely recommend going the LiPo route. LiPo batteries can be had at, or below what it would cost for six cell NiMh pack. The only additional cost would be in a good charger to charge LiPo cells.

I haven't used NiMh packs since like 2009-ish. A few years back, I did try to relive the good old days of RC by buying a brushed motor ESC (T4.3 thread), and a couple of brushed motors. Let's just say I tried it; it was fun for a few weeks, but sold my brushed stuff and never going down that road again.

RustyUs

If you still have the original electronics in your SC10, most likely you have the XP SC200 ESC.

RustyUs

Yeah, getting the SC8e up and running will need at least a good 4268 sized motor, and a 3S/4S LiPo battery to be of any type of usefulness/fun. Heavier RC platform=bigger motor=bigger batteries... bigger money .

cbow

Thanks for your help RustyUs. The speed controller is a Velineon EZ set VXL-3s. The motor is a Velioen also. I think I had to buy, motor, controller, servos and radio to complete the kit. Anyway no switch on the speed control for NiMh or LiPo. Looks like I'll run on NiMh till I can tackle the LiPo SC 8. Thanks for the SC 8 motor/battery combo suggestions.

cbow

Got the new 5K NiMH battery for my SC 10. Charged it on 4 amps. It got pretty hot, at least 110 F mentioned in Caution bullets. The instructions say bat. mah capacity divided by 1000 equals charge rate amps. Did I misunderstand the instructions?

Truck ran fine. Brought back titillating mammarys... of getting rocks and debris stuck in the servo tray and losing steering control. Brakes work!

Shocks could probably use an oil change/refill.

Does this forum have sperll cheque? It underdots misspelled words but I don't see an icon to correct sperllang.

Thanks, cbow

Big Alice

On my pc if you left click on the misspelled word it will give you the correct spelling. Windows 7

cbow

Thanks Big Alice, I have an apple and a dictionery, that I sometimes use.
My SC 10 is running fine. Steering glitches when I'm on gravel. Tiny little rock-u-lets get trapped in the steering servo tray. Runs great on grass but tips over pretty easy.
I'm looking at motors and batteries for the AE 1/8 Buggy. RustyUs suggested a 4268 size motor and 3 or 4 S LiPo.
Plus lots of fun toys to go with the motor and battery...

Thanks cbow

cbow

I wonder if a 1515 2200KV Castle motor with 6s LiPo will work in my RC 8e 1/8 scale buggy. I'll need a ESC and radio too. Have a functioning 15 year old radio for the SC 10, but I don't know if it will work with a new motor and ESC.
Castle 1512 1800KV with 6s is also an option.
Without having a motor I don't know how to determine if either motor will fit in the chassis, no matter how many times I see videos with motor mount options. Some motor number designations mean motor size (diameter and length) and some don't.
I'm saying 6s 'cause the Castle sales pitch says either 4s or 6s and well... go big or go home...slowly.
Any motor, ESC, radio, combo, suggestion would be welcome.

cbow

What is an easy way to determine the correct toe-in toe-out on my RC8e buggy. The tie rod lengths are set to the lengths recommended, but the buggy looks to have a bit of toe-out.
How do I access spell check to correct spelling under red words?

RustyUs

Check your setup with battery onboard and at the ride height that you want. "Eyeball it"... the toe out/in. You can measure distance between the front of the tires and the rear of the tires. For a 4wd buggy, I use slight toe out... again, just eyeball it.

cbow

Thanks RustyUs. I still haven't purchased a motor, ESC and battery for the Buggy. So many choices, web sites, opinions, info, caveats and 'what does that mean', ???'s. I have nearly balled my knoggen trying to make sense of all the intercourse. But I guess that's better than getting screwed into a combo that's under powered and/or over heats. Good to hear that "just eyeball" and that a slight toe-out, are OK. I used two overlapped framing squares to form a box around the front tires, indexed off the rear tires, to check alignment. It's very close, just a little toe-out. Any mention of an Ackerman adjustment would only be me name dropping, 'cause I don't really understand the benefits.
I'm thinking the Castle 1515, 2200 kv motor with 4s LiPo, and a big azz ESC, just in case the "bigger's better bashing bug bites". 5 B's alliteration there. Saw a Yew Twoob "how to" that said a calculated no load motor RPM of about 50,000 is a max when choosing an 1/8 scale Buggy motor/battery combo.
Fact, opinion or merely add revenue generating blah, blah, blah???
I need a keystroke cure for red underdots. Do you use Sperll Cheque? How???
Thanks cbow

RustyUs

The Castle Creations 1515 2200kV motor is normally the 4274 can size of motor that people put into their truggies. That being said, I currently use a 4274 size motor in my eBuggy for the extra security of having enough power to keep temps down on longer track "bashing" runs. The 1515 2200kV on 4S will be plenty for everyday use. I couldn't even begin to think about running a 6S system in a 1/8 scale buggy... unless I was using a low 1100kV-ish motor (lower kv and higher voltage= more efficient system) and doing speed runs or something.

cbow

Thanks RustyUs. That's helpful info. I saw a ToYoub post about Castle knockoffs for a much cheaper price. The post was 2 years old and mentioned prices that seemed much lower than other Castle retailers.
Any advice on internet retailers that sell actual brand names, not look a likes, and actually backup what they sell?
Thanks cbow

RustyUs

I check around online hobby shops such as Amain Hobbies, and Horizon Hobby for prices and go from there. I think prices will be very close to what you can get directly from a lot of RC manufacturers, and the same goes for the electronics as well. Sales, coupon codes... shop around. That motor you mentioned, Castle Creation's 1515 2200kv, is that same price on Castle's website and Amain Hobbies website... again, I'd shop around for free shipping/coupons/reward points. I use a lot of Hobbywing stuff. I normally buy directly from Hobbywing.

cbow

Hello RustyUs. I got the castle 1515, 2200 Kv motor, with a Mamba X ESC combo, and a 15T, 5mm, gear from Amain. The 15T gear was supposed to be in the kit, but 13 years later it was a 'no show'. I have a Futaba 2 channel FHSS 2pl-2.4G radio and a Traxxas 2056 servo in the buggy. Need radio receiver advice.
After that a 4s LiPo battery and charger. Any suggestions you might have will be helpful.
Thanks cbow

cbow

Had some problems when installing the new 1515 motor. The can is a bit to large for the motor mount height. I could try to raise to diff/motor mount with a spacer. Or grind some of the cooling vanes off the bottom of the motor. Or cut a hole in the body under the motor. Or send the motor back and guess again about the correct can size. An 1/8" or perhaps 3/32" shim under to diff/motor mount would probably work but I can't find an after market source for such an item. Grinding, cutting or sending back, suck.
Kit plans call for washers on the motor mount studs. They weren't included in the parts list for the kit. Are washers necessary or optional?
Thanks cbow


Had some problems with the can size on the 1515 motor

Kit instruction say use a washer and give a number but these washers aren't on the parts included list.

cbow

Got the motor mounted with the correct size screws. The 2nd pic shows where I filed off the cooling vanes on the motor can to make a flat surface to match the motor mount surface. Seems to me there should be a small gap between the chassis and the motor can.
There's no way of bolting the ESC down. So double stick tape??? or something better???
Any suggestions about receivers that would match a Futaba 2 channel FHSS 2pl-2.4G radio transmitter and a Traxxas 2056 servo?
Thanks, cbow

cbow

Got a new receiver, matches transmitter... luckily surfed onto a hue twb caveat about matching transmitter and receiver manufacture to secure a match...
Next a Li?? battery and charger.
Any suggestion on a Li?? balanced charger for 4s and a 4s battery rating... assuming 1/8 rc8e buggy with 2200 Kv motor???
Thanks, cbow

RustyUs

RC 1/8th Scale Buggies

cbow

Thanks RustyUs, I ordered a ProTek RC prodigy 66 duo charger. The charger had lots of reviews and a 5 star rating. Mid price range, $120.00.
I didn't choose a bat charger and LiPo combo 'cause the batteries are 25C and the motor wants 30C min. I'll probably go with something in the 50C/60C range. No use going nuts with triple digit C ratings, just more cost and not really needed unless you are racing and need that little extra juice.
Still haven't taped down the ESC. Got some ESC to receiver wires running precariously close to the spur/pinion gears when routing per the build instructions.
Need to figure out the battery to ESC solder on connections and what/where to buy the plugs.
Thanks cbow

cbow

I need a solder on pig tail to go from ESC to LiPo battery and from charger to battery. Perhaps I have to go thru an adapter, like a universal solder on pigtail fixture, to an adapter for to this particular battery plug, that also works on the charger to battery connector. Any suggestions and proper nomenclature would be very helpful.
Picture shows the ESC bare power wires and various fixtures that came with the charger, but won't work on the battery plug that is located at lower right of the pic.
Thanks cbow