Clodbusterfan

So the bottom of the shocks I want for my Radio Shack Golden Arrow have too small of a hole on the bottom and a bigger hole on the top. Here are the shocks I want to use on the rear of the Golden Arrow:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-Sla...75c94633a6a34a

As you can see, theres a bigger hole at the top of the shock. Theres a thicker bolt to hold the shock in place on the Golden Arrow at the bottom end of it. I was hoping to either turn the shock upside down or drill out a bigger hole on the bottom? Would it hurt anything to mount it upside down?

Or do they make shocks this length that have bigger holes on each end?

Clodbusterfan

What pitch pinion and how many teeth does the stock Golden Arrow have?

korreka

I don't own the Radioshack Golden Arrow but I have the Nikko Thunderbolt with 540 motor. Golden Arrow is a "copy" of Thunderbolt / Bison / Rhino because Radioshack distributed and rebranded many Nikko cars.

Thunderbolt´s Pinion is 17T and 0.8 metric module

Overvolted

Interesting about the Nikko gears being 0.8P. I have in my GA a spur gear from a Traxxas Cat and the parts manual lists a 32P for the pinion with an option for a bigger gear. I have a lot of time on the GA with the Cat gear with no signs of wear.

korreka

These are the equivalences between metric (Europe/Japan) and imperial (USA) gears. It is essential to know this if you are looking gears for toy / hobby RC cars .

0,8 metric is compatible with 32 d.p. and 0,4 metric is compatible with 64 d.p.
0,5 or 0.6 metric is NOT compatible with 48 d.p.

Structrengnr2006

Does anyone know where I could find tire/rim replacements for my Golden Arrow and Red Arrow? I have looked EVERYWHERE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Any help would be GREATLYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY appreciated!

Thank you

korreka

There are no original tires. Put on Tamiya Hornet tires

They are 1.5 "but with a little effort they put on the rims.

korreka

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korreka

Nikko F10 Thunderbolt with rear Hornet tires.

Nimonsash

I picked up a Golden Arrow at a yard sale here in Calgary, AB for $20 CAD. Trying to post a pic but not having any luck. She's in pretty good shape though.

I am looking forward to tearing around the neighborhood with my 8 year old son but I have no past experience of modifying or looking after an RC car.
I will be happy to get a couple of fun years out of it with him, and if it does spark an interest then we can go all-out on modifying or upgrading.

Here's what I noticed being wrong with it -

The rear tires need changing - completely torn open in the middle of one them.
I know to replace with Tamiya Hornett tires from previous replies, but I cannot get them off the rims. The tires are stuck on it seems. If I forcibly remove from the rims, will the new tires fit on the same rims okay?

It came with two batteries but seem to be only holding a charge for 20 seconds before dying
The batterines are dated 2003 and so I assume they'll need replacing.
Will any 7.2 V ni-cad batteries do?

The suspension seems fine if not a little squeeky and it looks to drive pretty straight from what I can get out of it with these batteries.

Is there anything else I should do in order to get this buzzing around our neighborhood and green spaces?

thanks and apologies for the newbie questions - just excited to get this out with my lad!

Cheers

trueimport

My Feedback: (1)

I have to say, as the originator of this thread I'm absolutely floored by the amount of love the Golden Arrow is getting. I can't believe that 11 years later that it's still going strong. Thanks everyone for keeping this buggy alive.

Nimonsash

I'm trying to keep it alive, man! Can you offer any advice on my questions?
thanks for making this available to ask about : )

trueimport

My Feedback: (1)

You can actually replace the rear wheels entirely (rim and tire) with new ones. The back mounting of the wheel is slightly different so you would need adapters like these...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/13101209253...BoCybgQAvD_BwE

As for the batteries, those are toast. You can pick up a new one at any local hobby shop or on line pretty much anywhere. The larger the milliamp the longer run time you'll get. I would try to find something over 6k. You'll potentially have to change the connector on the car or battery but you should be able to fine one with the same connector.

MusicMan74

Hello,

I am trying to 'upgrade' my GA and all the information in this post has been very helpful.
Can someone recommend a budget replacement servo that is currently avail?

A post from 2010 uses a Futaba FP-132H which is no longer available; I read elsewhere that it has been replaced by the S9101

Another 2010 posting calls for the Hitec HS-311 servo, which appears to have somewhat different specs from the S9101...

Advice on what to buy please?


Thanks

dust75

Hi Greg sorry for the late reply
Any standard size servo will fit in the golden arrow

Dus

MusicMan74

Thanks- we wound up going with the Futaba S3004

dust75

Hope it worked out for you hope its as fun as it was when it was new

jjkirby

My Feedback: (20)

Hey Guys I have decided to pull my old Red Arrow out that I got when i was a kid and get her going. Not really looking to upgrade to modern stuff just get her going in her stock form again. I have checked and everything works so far on her minus the original battery or course but I definitely need new tires. I read about the Hornet tamiya tires but how do I mount them to the original wheels?

Kelaris

korreka

Tamiya Hornet tires on both. The Thunderbolt/Red Arrow rim is 1.9" and you will make an effort to fix the tire; use hand cream.



The Thunderbolt/Red Arrow rim is 1.9" diameter and you will make an effort to fix the tire; use hand cream.









[QUOTE=jjkirby;12714219]Hola, chicos, he decidido sacar mi viejo Red Arrow que compré cuando era niño y ponerlo en marcha. Realmente no busca actualizarse a cosas modernas, solo hacer que vuelva a su forma original. Lo he comprobado y todo funciona hasta ahora menos la batería original o el curso, pero definitivamente necesito neumáticos nuevos. Leí sobre las llantas Hornet tamiya pero ¿cómo las monto a las ruedas originales?[/QUOTE
]

gingokyky

Looking for adice for my GA Buggy. When I turn on the remote switch, the wheels immediately
start spinning. Any suggestions?

korreka

There are two trimmers in the car's electronics for steering neutral and throttle neutral

. Try adjusting them.

gingokyky

How do you remove the body from the frame?

matttintoshplus

Hey all, I know I'm a bit late to the bandwagon here but I've run out of ideas for the project and figured I'd reach out. Here's the scoop:

• The rear motor works on it's own. I sent it 2V using a power supply and it spins.
• The relays work. When I press forward on the remote, I hear a tick from the relays. I took one out and tested it with a multimeter and it worked. The other one I didn't remove to test manually because I heard a tick from it when it was the only one on the board.
• Pressing forward causes a click in the relays, pressing backwards does not.

Everything else on the board seems to be working just fine as far as I can tell. Steering is great. I've inspected the board and I don't see any obvious damaged parts. No puffy caps, no burnt out resistors, no burn marks on the board.

korreka

Hi,
I have the Nikko Thunderbolt and several Dictators but not the Golden Arrow; Golden Arrow has electronics very similar to the Dictator, powered by 4AA batteries (receiver, servo, relay coils,...) and 7.2V battery (motor).

If you have knowledge of electronics and own a multimeter and oscilloscope, my blog-site about the Dictator has diagrams and technical information.
https://reparar-cochesrc.blogspot.co...e-emisora.html


You report the steering works (Ch1) but the throttle (Ch2) does not activate the electric motor, neither in forward or reverse. Sometimes the relay activates in the coil but the contacts are burned.
* Please, try to test the transmitter on another Nikko proportional car or 27Mhz hobby car.
* The batteries must be charged. The old stock 7.2V NiCd battery surely does not have discharge current to activate the motor. Try another battery.
* Clean the contacts of the 7.2V battery box and battery connectors. There is usually sulfate.
* Check the car's ON/Off switch with a multimeter and the solder wires. The sulfate attacks the solders and the copper in the wire breaks inside the insulator.
* Check the neutral trimmers (steering and throttle)
* The relay coil has about 10 or 15 ohms. Check it with the multimeter.
* Pin 4 of 2609AL circuit can see the transmitter signal on the oscilloscope. Pins 19 (forward) or 20 (reverse) are activated with about 4 or 5 volts.
* In addition to a possible relay failure, the problem may be in the power Mosfet transistors or the activation circuit (M5291 i.c.) of the Mosfet transistors.