Quick 1

My Feedback: (6)

Mr Ogle,
Veery Curious about this chassis. I'm very new to this and have alot of questions. I really want to buy this car but I do not see how you set the car up according to your parts list, where does the spur go for this chassis. Along with putting brakes on any car for safety reasons as posted in Imdra rule book. Along with the quick disconnect for the motor. What are some of the things that a beginner such as my self need to know to have fun and be safe and not destroy a 200 dollar car at the first pass. But hesitant due to lack of info please help me with these questions.

Paul Songas

Jon, the spur gear bolts directly to the hub on the right side. Very simple set up. There no mechinical brake, the brake effect happens when the motor gets dead shorted when you let off (single switch) or close the brake switch (dual switches).

I don't have a good pic right now but here is a quick drawing of how my 10 cell Funny is set up with the wiring, and also a 1/10 scale hub

2916jr

couldnt said it better myself lol

Quick 1

My Feedback: (6)

So the two plack boxes in your pic are switches and the servo either opens or closes. So there is no need for a Esc. Just pure straight power. Also, what are some of the tendecies of the car such as pulling to one side of the other and such. Is it in essence the same as a Oval pan car versus setup options. Hence we wont be turning left though. lol. Do you need a high torque servo for the switch or just pure speed on the servo. And what would be your recommendatons in that department. How much Epa should you have for steering at the first pass and does the skinny tires with rings on them suffice for the task. I read the gearing chart on grands setup page today and noticed that the gearing chart only goes so high. I'm going to start small in motor choice 12t double. As I am knowledgeable of the power through my sedan racing though I'm sure it will increase with drag racing. So my question is what would be a a good general starting point to gear at with 4200 mah 6 cell setup and 12turn double motor. I want to grow into the car. Not bye it 6 times starting out with a 6 turn. I do have a rollout calc I use for my oval cars using a dyno and tire diameter and track length. This sholud work with drags in calculating rollout correct or is there a different calculation for drags.


My calc let me know if this would work or you have something else. thank you


record in laps x track footage divided by 4 x 13.3 divided by motor rpm ( At 23 amps) x spur divided bye rollout divided by spur.

Cant remember what the 13.3 was for.

Rollout = measure each wheeland add together divide by 2 then x 3.1415= rollout

2916jr

thats correct either all power or no power

Paul Songas

Yes, all on power, no need for ESC.

Most people use the Hitec 81 or 55 for throttle, and Hitec 81 for steering. The O-Ring tires work great, just make sure you CA them to the wheel. If the car is trimmed out right, it will usually always go straight as long as you have good traction. If the car breaks loose too bad off the line, it can get out of the groove pretty easy. EPA just goes with driving style. I go down pretty far.

2916jr

I have to ask somethin on the brushless motors do you run a micro swith or a esc?

ahr43

Hi 2916jr,

Most BL that we have seen run and read reviews on require a 'controller'. A controller is similar in size and function to an ESC and performs the electronic magic necessary to operate the BL motor. For certain the Mamba series does.

//AC//

2916jr

thx I heard a while back on rc drags that some were trying to run them on micro switches but they did not work very well

ahr43

Hey Jon,

Great to read you are giving RC drag racing a shot. You are starting with a good package that will eliminate many set-up headaches and allow you to focus on developing a driving strategy. We here at AHR43 agree with Paul's EPA recommendation in Post #6. Starting out tight (or less) EPA is good. Once you dial in your set-up, 'steering' should become more of a 'course correction' than a a radical change in direction like you were used to in sedan racing.

FWIW, we here at AHR43 have increased the EPA over what we used to use in our Bracket/Index rail to give us a 'collision avoidance' factor. Ocassionally in drag racing, the car in the other lane will cross the center line. This immediately disqualifies the car that crosses the center line, but having the ability to "steer clear" ensures advancing to the next round without having to make repairs. But it all happens so fast, that collision avoidance is not always possible. At least this works for us in a 2.50sec rail. The quicker you go, the less reaction time you have to correct the car anyway, so back to where Paul is coming from. Expect your driving style to change as you go quicker. Just like tuning your car, driving is a skill that will evolve and change the more you drag race.

Again, it's all in how your driving style develops. Welcome to the hobby/sport!

//AC//