kstmRYD

I achieve smooth throttle by ESC programming and gearing, I gear higher for top end and I program my throttle curve so punch comes in early mid rpm's. This way there is a nice balanced power takeoff. I don't need neck snapping power, I need her to accelerate and decelerate very smoothly and with torque.

gokemidoro

O.K., thought so. I have the ESC set for smooth power delivery from low end through mid-range. It ramps up after that, say, little more than half-throttle.

Since the JRXS-R is siginificantly lighter than even the VDF, my temps are non-existent. They were low in the VDF, but the JRXS-R just stays cool! VERY efficient drivetrain

gokemidoro

As requested earlier, here is a link to my JRXS-R:

http://s974.photobucket.com/albums/a...s/Lexus%20ISF/

There are a few subtle touches still in the works, but the essential drifter is complete.

kstmRYD

ooooh so nice and neat, great job!!!

I just got mine last night from kms7852, he shipped it packed really nice, bubble wrap, all original packaging, and spare parts, this chassis like new! great guy to do business with, do not hesitate to buy from him. I started to put the one way in and notice bearings were in wrong, luckily between his spares and some one way bearings I had I switched the bearing and got her going in the right direction. Other than this the car is mint.

Today I will counter steer her, take her out to the track and tweak her there. I had a brand new Sensored Mamba Max Pro and CC 5700kv motor and spectrum receiver sitting around, put those in so she's ready to roll. I'll start out with a 34T pinion and adjust as I go. Let's see how this chassis handles, so far I checked her center weight and she is pretty dead on balanced, I must say being a die hard Yokomo user this chassis has impressed me.

I'll post some pics in a few.

kms7852 thanks a million!!!

gokemidoro

Thank you, sir!

You might play with a little weight up front- I'm using 1 oz. right now, it does make a huge difference, and the chassis is very responsive to changes. More so than any other chassis I've used.

Be prepared for very sensitive handling!!

I'm using a 36T with the set up you saw, and it seems to work fine. 34T should work out.

Post pics when you can!

kms7852

Thank you sir!

kstmRYD

Wrong way bearings not the first time it happened to me, HPI one way also had one bearing in backwards, I didn't check it, installed it and could not control the car, it took me a few minutes to realize it was a bearing. HPI one way notorious for entire bearing spinning in its seat.

Yeah these bearing on the LOSI one way are factory installed, if you ever have to replace one, you need to heat the area the bearing sits in to get it out, and use heat again to get new one in, if you cold press it, it requires a bit of pressure to get in, you will probably wind up chewing up the bearing outer housing beating it into place. Believe me heat the diff tube up and freeze the bearing before install and it will fall right right in.

kstmRYD

Went thru my stuff to see if I could turn this JRSX-R into counter steer didn't find what I needed, but got close. I just wanted to replace the stock 23T center front with a 15T to get 1.5 counter but I didn't have a belt that would work. So I put a hot body 39T in the front and a 15T HPI in center front and a belt from a Tamiya VDF. This gives me 1.42 counter steer, finished late so I'll take her out tomorrow. Here are some pics

kms7852

Haha nice! You actually calculated stuff! 

kstmRYD

I just use the brake rotor, the caliper rubs on most of my wheels too, I think I only have one set of wheels that don't rub. Here it is on my VDF, this is the only wheel that clears the caliper.

kms7852

Yup. that's what I do. I feel terrible because I wasted money buying that whole caliper thing when I could just buy the rotor for half the price. 3racing advertised as if it works perfectly.

kstmRYD

Took the JRSX-R out to the track today, ran it with bone stock settings except for 1.5 counter steer, I put a set of Raikou DXPE tires. I immediately noticed huge over steer and not enough steer angle to correct and hold it at full throttle and full steer lock. So I started to tweak it. First thing I did was to toe in the rear to gain some control, I toed it at 3 degrees it was a huge improvement, but quite not there yet. I toed the front 1.5 in and cambered 3 degrees and added some weight up front, this yielded good results, now the rear was under control it went when I told it to.

I started to put her into some nice slides but anything over a 45 degree slide could not be held, not enough steer angle. I was with some buddies so I put it away and took out my VDF and enjoyed some really nice deep slides. So for counter steering this chassis needs some serious moding.

When I got home I checked her steer angle degrees, she only has 29 degrees at full lock, the VDF has 38 degrees, huge difference no wonder I couldn't hold a deep angle at full lock. I further noticed that this chassis is true to touring, it has huge ackerman steering geometry, which is not good for counter steering, the VDF is almost parallel steer, very little ackerman.



I like a challenge and love to tinker, so I will start to modify this chassis, the first thing I need is more steer angle, I trimmed back the steer stop and fully locked it, turned the cvd, no chatter so it can take the angle, but even with the stop trimmed I could only get 32 degrees. I will mod the steer knuckle to eliminate ackerman or just replace it with a TA05 knuckle, and C hub, I measured and they will fit with some tweaking.

If I modify the steer knuckle I need to get the turn buckle hole and king pin hole in 90 degree and extend the distance between the king pin center and turn buckle hole.


The bottom line on this chassis? it is super balanced, built tough as nails, super smooth drive train, tight steering, really easy to work on, replace belts and good tunability. This is a great touring car, and I imagine it slides really nice 50/50, but if you want to counter steer you are limited, anything over 1.5 counter is not attainable due to steer limitation, really deep angles not happening with this chassis without major mods.

gokemidoro

Yah, non-cs, it does really well.

I did the knuckle mod, to get more steer, though it's not really necessary, being non-cs, butit does get it to swing around much faster!

I still like it better overall, compared to my VDF, because the VDF has that rattle at high-steer. Vibration bad enough to cause wheel bounce. I wish it came with the LCD's like the JRXS-R has!

OH, BTW, you will have to consider the center of the pivot on the LCD's, for adjustment of the kingpin. Those things have two CV's! Check it out. You may also have to "sharpen" the centering nubs on the dogbone end of them. You'll see what I mean, if you look at the manual.

kstmRYD

pivot will not change, CVD center will remain under the C hub pivot point, the arm on the steer knuckle will change, it will get longer and push away from the chassis to be inline with the C hub center pivot. Just took out a bunch of knuckles from various makes some look like contenders. You are right tough this chassis breaks loose really nice and steering response is awesome, I might put some rubber on her just to have a little fun.

gokemidoro

That's what the extra JRXS-RI was looking for, was for!! Make it a street screamer.

Well, I'll be busy with the Ofna for a bit, to go Gymkhana, I'll let everyone know how that went, soon!!

scrofcheck

Hi everyone. I am in the process of building my 1st car. Yes its a JRXS-R. Anyhow I'm stuck .I'm on bag E step E-04. I'm just not grasping how to fasten the steering assembly to the top deck. Then how to fasten it to the servo. I'm sure it's simple. Does anyone have clearer pics maybe of the assembly from the top or maybe explain it alittle better than the manual ? Thank you I really would appreciate it. Steve

gokemidoro

Sorry, no pics, but it really is easy, if you look closely at the diagram.

O.K., You ready?
The base bushings (the ones with the hex flange, PN# A1549) attach to the top of the top plate by screws coming up through the top plate from the bottom.
The short screws (PN# A6257) affix the bellcranks to the base bushings.

You must attach the link (see the pic at top right of step E-04? That link) BEFORE you attach the steering assembly! If not, you will be struggling to snap it on the ballstud (PN# A6025 in step E-03).

In fact, all rod ends should be snapped onto all ballstuds before assemblingany particular assembly!

kstmRYD

hope these help

scrofcheck

Well Thanks to gokemidoro & kstmRYD. Thank you both very much. Spoke with gokemidoro on the phone today and he was a great big help. The pics are awesome kstmRYD. Like they say a picture is worth a thousand words. Anyhow I got it together. Now I need to find a motor and some wheels. Thanks again guys and I hope everyone on this forum has a Very Merry Christmas. Steve

gokemidoro

Heheh!

kstmRYD,

Looks like you've had some slide time, by those pics!

scrofcheck,

No prob! Glad to be of help!

To both of you, and everyone, hope you get what you've been wishing for, and a happy Christmas!!

kstmRYD

glad I could be of service! Enjoy!!!!

Murd0ck

Hmmmm. This chassis seems pretty FRESH. I have a E4FS which is basically the same config. I do feel that my E4 is slightly more eaiser to drive then my VDF, but I love my VDF dearly. ROFL

I'm thinking of picking one of these up. I had a question.

Locking the rear diff seems pretty straight forward, but I saw a spool. Anyone use this spool? Does the Type-R kit come with a center one-way?

gokemidoro

The VDF is a great chassis, but mine has a few idiosyncrasies that are easily addressed.

The spool that is available is pricey, so I don't recommend it for that reason, otherwise, it looks like quality.

No, no center one-way, but a front one-way is available. I have it, and it works very well!

fallaci

Did anyone try to put losi double cvd's into vdf?

kstmRYD

LOSI double jointed CVD will not work on VDF without modifications, not straight up swap. For one bearings in steer knuckle on VDF would need to be replaced, LOSI shaft that runs through the bearings is smaller in diameter. I have both chassis, I'm going to check this out. Concerning the spool, I just locked my diff with 3M double sided tape, stuff works like a welding machine! Front one way for this chassis can be found on ebay for about 50.00 bucks, one guy had it on there the other day for 30.00 bucks!

I have been putting some track time on the JRXS, starting to drift it like a champ, just a few more tweaks needed.