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Sprint 2 parts question

Old 06-19-2014, 01:50 AM
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n2mini
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Default Sprint 2 parts question

Just recently bought a Sprint 2 drift car and see a lot of people are putting in a "one way" front diff and a "ball diff" in the rear but also hear about locking the rear diff and have seen a vid on one of the ways to do this. My questions are if buying the One Way front is that the only part needed or do I need One Way hubs or something else to work with it, and in the rear also, just the Ball Diff and or hubs? Also if using the ball diff is this a substitute for "locking" the stock rear diff at that point.
Are the stock suspension settings "about" right for drifting on most surfaces? I know it is a matter of touch/feel for the user and can be fine tuned later but if I should be using more camber, etc it would be good to know. Also in the booklet it does give me pointers on how to set the suspension adjustments based on high traction vs low traction surfaces, but what do they consider high and low traction surfaces. My main surface will be a concrete driveway that has the broom brushed finish on it, compared to the garage floor which is smoothed concrete... I'm guessing the broom finish is high traction( though the tires may ride on top of the brushed marks ) and the smooth garage floor would be low.. No carpet to run on but guess that would be high traction as well?
I also see that HPI sells a steering stabilizer module. Does it really help or a waste of money..

Thanks in advance..

Last edited by n2mini; 06-19-2014 at 06:58 AM.
Old 06-19-2014, 08:31 PM
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gokemidoro
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Lotsa Q's, but I'll try to answer as many as I can.....

The one-way for the S2 is a drop-in accessory. You don't need anything extra. The rear ball diff, if you know how to lock it, is also a drop-in item. Remember....you will still need to lock the ball diff.
No, the stock springs are much too stiff. You will want to soften the front end, while keeping the rear relatively stiff, but not as stiff as those stock springs.HPI has a confusing list of spring rates for the S2, but when I had mine, I dispensed with the stock shocks altogether, in favor of Tamiya TRF shocks, which are arguably the best on-road shocks you can buy. They are also not direct bolt-ups, so you will need to get Tamiya ballstuds to mount them to the S2. On springs, you will want Tamiya blue springs for the rear, and possibly red springs up front. Shock oil is your choice, but anything close to 30-35 wt will do fine.

On surfaces, you pretty much have it down. HPI's T-drifts are fairly good tires, but there are better out there. I suggest you get as many different types as you can, and experiment. I have used Raikou (raikoudrifttires.com) DXPE's and D70's with great results, Yeah Racing 3 degrees, HPI A-drifts (those are more for nitro drifters, but work on really slippery surfaces), all to good effect.
Camber is a cosmetic affectation. It doesn't do anything for performance, just looks. Yeah Racing 3 degrees will require 3 degrees of negative camber, to get the tread to sit square with the road surface, but in all truth camber isn't necessary, otherwise.

by stabilizer you mean their D-box, forget it. That's $100 you could spend on better things, like CVD's. Drift gyros don't do much to learn drift. They are "cheats" and most seasoned drifters look down on them. It's not difficult to learn the basics of drift, it's the control aspect that will take time to learn. You can do it without a gyro. Check out HPI's drift tutorial at Youtube. (you might have gotten a DVD with the S2, it's on that) Those are the basics, so you can progress from there.
You will not become an "expert drifter" overnight. It takes time to learn, and patience is your buddy, here. There will be days when nothing goes right, no matter what you do. My advice is to put the S2 up, and try again another day, if that happens. No sense in getting frustrated. Just try again later.
I've been at drift for about seven years, and I'm no expert. I just recently got one of my high-end drifters CS'd, and that's a whole other ballgame.

Hope some of this helps you.
Old 06-20-2014, 01:24 AM
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n2mini
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Thanks!!!
Old 06-27-2014, 09:54 PM
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Az Froggy
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You may want to look into a counter steer set for it as well....changes the pulleys so the fronts spin slower than the rears.....helps to drift
Old 06-28-2014, 02:13 AM
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n2mini
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If not doing the counter steer does anyone try to use less grip tires on the front to ad in this? Not sure which tires that would be of course. I see the slicks and different tread designs but how is anyone to know which will offer more/less grip other then just trial n error method?

Also does anyone make a CS Kit for the Sprint 2 that doesn't need any mods to make work?

Last edited by n2mini; 06-28-2014 at 06:43 AM.
Old 06-28-2014, 07:29 AM
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Az Froggy
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I have tried some different tires so far, but it hasn't helped too much....I think the counter steer pullys will be the biggest help, will make!it easier to control. As for a C5 body, I have no clue since I am going old school muscle with mine,
Old 06-28-2014, 07:56 AM
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gokemidoro
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Originally Posted by n2mini
If not doing the counter steer does anyone try to use less grip tires on the front to ad in this? Not sure which tires that would be of course. I see the slicks and different tread designs but how is anyone to know which will offer more/less grip other then just trial n error method?

Also does anyone make a CS Kit for the Sprint 2 that doesn't need any mods to make work?
It's not a good idea to mix tire types. Trust me. Trial and error is the only way. Every chassis will be different, even from the same manufacturer.

CS is a whole other can of worms, too. If you're not swift on buying/swapping tires, forget CS. It's an entirely different concept to drift than 50/50. And there isn't a kit available to convert an S2. If you want CS, it's best to do it to another, higher-quality chassis. Eagle Racing makes CS kits for several models and manufacturers, but the S2 isn't one of them. They're the only ones that make CS "kits" with all the pulleys. belts and attendant parts to just bolt on. They generally make CS kits for Tamiya chassis.

I have a Tamiya TA05 VDF (an original production run model - one of the first thousand) that has recently been CS'ed with an Eagle Racing 1.60 ratio CS kit. If you want to get into CS, you'll have to upgrade to a better chassis. I have a friend who modded his S2 to CS (his thread is over at CS Junkies), and he has sold it, because it doesn't work as well as he'd hoped. It's a good job, but burns out electronics.

The simplest thing you can do, is learn to drift with the S2, and upgrade to a better chassis when you can. That's what many of us did!

Last edited by gokemidoro; 06-28-2014 at 10:50 AM.
Old 06-28-2014, 06:03 PM
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n2mini
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maybe down the road a bit. Got to play with what I have currently then maybe hand it down and get a more/better drift chassis at that point. only been playing with it a short time and still running all stock but having a hard time doing slow controled drift turns like I see on youtube.granted alot of those cars are of better quality and look smaller in size but not sure if that part matters..
Old 06-28-2014, 07:16 PM
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gokemidoro
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Yah, start slow. That's the best advice I can give. It does take time and patience. The S2 is what many, many of us started with, so you're in good company! That chassis has it's "foibles," but has been around long enough to be practically a staple of drift for as long as it has been out. What you see at Youtube is the result of fine adjustment, and a lot of money in option parts. There are a few rules to keep in mind......

Tires are going to be an ongoing expense. Get used to it. If a set doesn't perform to your liking on one surface, save them, and try them on another. Keep doing this until you have a set for every eventuality. This you can effectively pare down to three or four sets, but that's about the least number of sets you would have for all surfaces, because there is no such thing as the "all-purpose" drift tire.

Some surfaces will never be optimum. You can drift and drift and drift, and nothing you do works to your liking, and it may not be you, that's the problem (as discussed above, in another reply). You will learn in time, what works, and what doesn't. Again, patience is your buddy.

Never make more than one adjustment at a time. Every adjustment affects others, so you can easily become confused, if you do too many at one time. Get acquainted with every adjustment on the S2. How it works, how to adjust, and that will help you identify a problem. My advice? There are manuals for certain chassis (mostly race chassis) that have adjustments you can refer to. The S2 will not have all of them, but for the ones they do, you would be best served by downloading a manual, and copying it, and put it in a folder or some such, until which time you become accustomed to each adjustment enough to not need the manual any longer. I suggest the X-Ray T3/T4 manual, and Losi's JRXS Type "R" manual. Any of those are very comprehensive, and tells you what each adjustment is for, and what it does, and how it affects other adjustments. This is true of all chassis that are adjustable.

As for size, the next size down from 1/10th is Mini, or "M" class. "M" class are actually 1/10th scale, and most car bodies you will see in this class, are representations of full-size mini and micro cars, so compared to "standard" 1/10th bodies, are comparable to them in overall size. "M" class 4WD drifters aren't hard to drift, but are "twitchy," so require a little experience. I have one, myself, an ABC Hobby Genetic, set up for Gymkhana (the driving Ken Block does), and it has the strength and size to do the crazy things KB does with his Fiesta, only in "M" class!

But I digress.......Just watch that HPI drift video I referred to, as many times as necessary, until you get the basics down, then move on with harder things. Do circles first, until you can do them near identical to one another, then reverse them. Then move on to figure eights, in both directions as well. Once you accomplish those, you're ready to make a course of your own. It just takes time and patience. You may find that you have outgrown the S2, as we all did, and it's time then, to get something better.

Last edited by gokemidoro; 06-28-2014 at 07:19 PM.
Old 06-29-2014, 08:57 AM
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Az Froggy
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California Drift does make a cs pully set for the HPI Sprint2Sport...there are a few videos showing them out there
Old 06-29-2014, 09:24 AM
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gokemidoro
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Maybe you can get with n2mini about that. I wasn't aware anyone made something like that for the S2. Good work!

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