NitroRCX
 

I want to know if the customer service from NitroRCX has improved at all.

Anyone out there have recent bad or good experiences? I'm considering them, but honestly I'm afraid to cause I don't want the hassle.

Would love to throw some business their way, but only if they have improved their customer service and their quality of shipping. Iread once of a guy who ordered a car from them and it only came with 3 wheels. That's just not right!

Any additional feedback is welcome.

RE: NitroRCX
 

I don't think so.

There's a site you can go to (I forget the address, but "NitroRCX " is in it) which has the complaints in it, and it seems they haven't done much in the past few years. You'll know you're there, because they have a star rating system.
It's weird, because they have customers that are REALLY happy, or REALLY bummed, and a few who threaten to go to the BBB. Not many in between.

If you have heard of questionable service from ANY vendor, stay away. That's the best policy.

RE: NitroRCX
 

Ithink I've been to that site. I'm really suprised that no one has gone to BBByet. Crappy customer service is one thing, but when people have the wrong item shipped to them on top of that. WOW. There no excuse for that! It's unfortunate because they could really be competitors in the market. It sounds like a cheap, out of garage business if you ask me.

I'll definitely be hitting up HPI or Tamiya when I scrape enough funds together.

RE: NitroRCX
 

Haha!

I've heard the same thing about being run out of a garage! :)

May Imake a suggestion? Depending on your budget, try Tamiya's kits. If the VDF is out of your range, The TA06 Pro is less expensive, and makes a great drift platform, and a great TCchassis, as well. I also see X-Ray's T2R is at a great price, too. Of course, they'll need electronics, but both are great chassis.

If those are still out of reach, you could try Ofna's JL10's. They make a shaftie and a belt-drive, and both are rollers, which means you'll still have to get electronics, but they are a better choice than HPI's Sprint 2 or E10.

If those are STILLout of reach, get Tamiya's TT01. At least you'll have a better chassis than an exceed, or E10.

RE: NitroRCX
 

Wow

Thanks!It's hard to know exactly what to get when there are so many options out there.

RE: NitroRCX
 

I've abused my XB TT01 extremely and hevent had a single issue! Completely stock just with homemade drift tires.

RE: NitroRCX
 

rolson,

See?!

Now you have a great place to start! :)


Narwhal,

Antartica?? I'll bet stuff takes a while to get to you! Keep sliding!!!! :)

RE: NitroRCX
 

Ice makes it easy to slide 8D

RE: NitroRCX
 

How much can I expect to pay for a Tamiya TT-01R?</p>

I Google'd it and for shopping results they came in waaaay low, like in the $130 - $150 range.  Seems too good to be true.</p>

I want to know what's realistic.  What can I expect to pay for a good starter?</p>

Here's what I would like </p>

- Lipo battery (can probably buy this after market) </p>

- Drifter! (tires can be after market purchases)</p>

- Brushless motor</p>

- Shaft driven (I read stories about people going through belts because of pebbles getting caught in the belt drive housing)</p>

- Waterproof if possible (I live in Seattle, enough said!)  I don't plan on running it in the rain, but if I happen to run it over some wet pavement I don't want water dropplets frying everything)</p>

I'd like to also eventually hop up to aluminum parts like the suspension arms, shocks, etc.</p>

RE: NitroRCX
 

You're looking at the kits, which will be less than their "XB" RTR's. Anywhere around $300 to $500 is about right for a good drift chassis with electronics. That's not including batteres and charger.

On the batteries - I'd recommend Duratrax and Venom. They are at the cutoff for price/performance. Anything cheaper won't do as well. Both have 4000 and 5000Mah LiPos that are good.
On the charger - Get the best you can afford. I say this, because "El Cheapo" chargers take too long to charge, and some are actually unsafe. I'd just play it safe, and ask around at your LHS. My own was purchased from Maxamps, and has served me VERYwell.

Go to raikoudrifttires.com

I recommend the DXPE's and D68's. There is also a combo pack with those two compounds. They will have the best grip/slip ratio, and they last F-O-R-E-V-E-R! I'm STILL running the first set I purchased.......Three years ago! The prices may seem high at first, but their economy will surprise you!

I'd get a brushed system, if moisture is a concern. I am currently running a Losi MSC12 ESC with an Orion 15Tbrushed motor in my new TA06, and it's plenty powerful enough for drift, I assure you. The Orion is rebuildable, so you can run it for a long time. I live only 95 miles away from you, so I know all about the rain!! :D The MSC12 isn't waterproof, but just be careful, which brings me to....

Shaftie vs. Belt-drive. I could write a novel on the pros and cons of both, but suffice to say, it'll be up to you. Seen those RC drift vids at Youtube? the areas they drift were swept or otherwise cleaned before the cameras rolled, and a clean surface will bring out the effectiveness of the tires too, so running a belt-drive shouldn't be a concern.
Belts are all I run, and I sweep whereever I drift, so I never have a problem. Belts are also easier to maintain (at least I think so), and adjustments to gearing are easy and straightforward, and you can also easily CSa belt-drive, where a shaftie requires special gearsets, and near complete disassembly. Belts are also quieter, but that's just my preference.

On hop-ups - I would tell you not to mess with aluminum anywhere near suspension arms. Once bent,they stay bent, and since aluminum is stronger than plastic, the next plastic part in line of the crash or contact will break, and that is usually the chassis plate or tub. You can hop-up with aluminum any other parts, but on suspension, stick with plastic. LOTSless trouble.

RE: NitroRCX
 

so would you then recommend aluminium chassis plate?

RE: NitroRCX
 

You could if you want, but chassis platesshould have some flex, and sometimes, that can be a good thing. Again, if the aluminum chassis plate is involved in a crash, it will be "tweaked" How bad depends on how bad the crash was, but it will be permanent.

If I were going to do aluminum, I'd stick with stuff like bulkheads, shocks and shock towers, C-hubs and steering knuckles, rear hub carriers, prop shafts (for shaft-drives), and motor plate. Some small parts like ballstuds, and nuts can be, too, but the rest? I stick with plastic. Plastic is cheap, easy to replace, and comparatively more durable, because it will bend before it breaks, and won't stay bent like aluminum will.

It also keeps cost down. :D

RE: NitroRCX
 

Thanks!

RE: NitroRCX
 

I paid $140 for my XB TT01 on ebay... there are a few on ebay for that price, I've seen a RX7, Delta Integrale, and Evo.