Setting up my first drift build
 

I've done a lot of research and I think I got a good start to my build, just want to see what everybody thinks about it before I buy.

Chassis: Ta06 Pro

Motor/ESC: HobbyWing X6A 1:10 Sensored Brushless RC Combo w/ XERUN 10.5T 3650-3200KV Sensored Motor & 120A ESC + Program Card
http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e-10-5t-...-120a-lcd.html

Servo: Savox SC-1251MG Low Profile High Speed Metal Gear Digital Servo-savsc1251mg
http://www.savoxusa.com/v/vspfiles/t...s/clear1x1.gifhttp://www.savoxusa.com/Savox_SC1251MG_Digital_Servo_p/savsc1251mg.htm

Battery: GENS ACE 5000mAh 50C 7.4V Hardcase Lipo Battery Pack ROAR Racing Approval (Direct)
http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-50c-50...22-direct.html

Charger: Sky Charger B6AC 6-in-1 DUAL POWER Balance Charger/Discharger w/ AC Adapter for 1-6 Cell Lipo/Lilo/LiFePo4 + 1-15 Cell Nimh/NiCD w/ USB PC Charging/Monitor Software
http://www.hobbypartz.com/skychb6chdup.html

Radio System: FLY SKY GT3C 2.4ghz Transmitter and Receiver with Lipo Battery and Charger
http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-ct3c-3...lcd-green.html

I included links to the parts to make sure I'm paying the right price for this stuff. My biggest problem is finding the TA06 chassis, all the ebay sales are from hong kong, I don't want to order international, US only.
I am still real new to this and want to make sure I'm going in the right direction before I drop $500+, any suggestions would really help.
Still got to choose the body and tires.

Do not put a 10.5t motor into a drift car, you want 17.5 at the absolute fastest, drifting is all about slow and controlled with a lower high end peak in your motor, you will not be able to control drifts with a very fast motor like 10.5 as you will be struggling to fine adjust the speed all the time. When I started out I put a 13.5 motor in and that was even to fast so your 10.5 will be impossible.

Also go for the alturn low profile servo, it is half the price of the savox and exactly the same spec, additionally look at over lander lipo battery's I have a 4250 2c battery and it is more than enough for drifting, the over lander multi purpose charger/ discharger is also very good, over lander stuff is some of the latest stuff out on the market and is very very good value

The radio gear you have chosen is good for what you need it for, and you are better to order your chassis directly from supplier as it makes it cheaper even though you have to wait a bit for it

Hard radial drift tyres and the hardest wearing and there are a great choice of tread patterns to choose from too

Thanks so much R32!! I swear I read somewhere that the 10.5 motor was best for drifting! But I guess all the numbers are starting to confuse me! lol. I will definitely go with the 17.5 now. Going to check in on the rest of your suggestions too!

No worries, I run Alturn and overlander stuff, I can't fault any of it, savox quality stuff is good for grip/ track racing but as drifting is low friction less grip driving that doesn't put a lot of force on the servo the Alturn servo is as good quality as you need and it just so happens to have the same performance figures as the equivalent savox one

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1967331http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1967330 This is how my ta06 pro looks, if you have any questions about my set up etc please just ask.

Very nice setup! So I went to tamiya's website and they want $460 for the ta06 pro, not impressed! Ebay has them for $300 with shipping from hong kong. Think I might have to go for that and hope for no customs fees and other delays.

It totally depends on the supplier in HK, some things take 5 days and others take 3 weeks but I don't mind that as I'm saving money. I suggest you get a rear locked diff and a front one way axle to help your difting. They certainly make a great and essential improvement your drifting

Yah I'm gonna have to go with ebay, I'm all for saving money. The diff's are on the list for sure... Have you thought of changing your front suspension to a vertical position? Ive seen others that do the mod, just don't know if it really helps.

I prefer the look of the Ifs set up, and don't see any difference in handling with the standard vertical position to be honest

Did you manage to place any orders today? :-)

this is just the prep work for when my tax check comes in, still got about two weeks until I can start spending :(

Ah ok! What style of shell will you go for?

Hard to make up my mind on the shell, everyone I like is always out of stock, so I think I may go with an hpi one, something like the gtr http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/17538 , or the supra http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/17539, I read I have to use wheels with a bigger offset to fill the 200mm shell, seems easy enough.. i do like the s2000 too http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/17506

Yea they are all nice, the supra looks pretty cool

I'm all about old school, my old ford I think is great and my nicest project yet, I'm trying to get my hands on an old mini shell to fit the bigger tamiya chassis too

I love the old school theme of yours, my first love was this one http://www.rcmart.com/nissan-fairlad...cPath=438_1535 , of course out of stock!!

So is this all I need for the front?? http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-54303-t...y-p-33820.html

This is what I have in the rear http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Solid-Axle...item4abcf04dc7


Your front diff that you have chosen looks ok, as long as it is one way and not a locked diff it will do the job, I choose it in grey as I think it looks better and mine was preassembled

On that link it says its for CS, I'm not going that way yet, will it still work? Damn, parts are hard to find in the US!

Your not going what way? If you mean your not going to lock the rear diff you'll nt be able to drift properly with a live diff

I plan on doing the diff, but it says that one is setup for counter steer, I dont plan on doing the CS until I master the 50/50 first.

50/50 is simply locking both diffs and driving.. Couldn't be more simple or any more uninteresting..Cs is working out spur ratios and working out degrees of drive and oversteer etc. They are two entirely different things and one is much more complicated than the other. The Cs is much more technical and more of a challenge and much much more fun. If you learn a driving technique for 50/50 you'll have to start all over again for going to Cs, it's not like you progress from one to the other