How I reinforced the Tamiya DF02 (Rising Storm) Chassis
10-28-2010, 11:24 AM
#51
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RE: How I reinforced the Tamiya DF02 (Rising Storm) Chassis
ORIGINAL: SyCo_VeNoM
lol my front one broke my rears were fine
The front pins also given me the most issues with popping out, and bending
lol my front one broke my rears were fine
The front pins also given me the most issues with popping out, and bending
Nothing will fix THAT.
10-28-2010, 05:19 PM
#52
RE: How I reinforced the Tamiya DF02 (Rising Storm) Chassis
ORIGINAL: RobbieP
LOL - that's from running headlong, at speed, into heavy immovable objects/driver error.
Nothing will fix THAT. [img][/img]
ORIGINAL: SyCo_VeNoM
lol my front one broke my rears were fine
The front pins also given me the most issues with popping out, and bending
lol my front one broke my rears were fine
The front pins also given me the most issues with popping out, and bending
Nothing will fix THAT. [img][/img]
Pins popped out a few times without breaking the chassis funny thing is it pops out usually when my buggy bounces in the air offroad.
When it broke I was on dirt and skid sideways that I will admit was driver error A head on wouldn't have cause the break I had cause the arm would have pushed in, I more caught the front wheel at a weird angle which ripped it outwards. It was a bizarre hit I couldn't replicate if I wanted in all truth
But then again if the pin wouldn't have bent outwards from the back of it the hinge wouldn't have broke off the chassis which this WILL fix It won't make it immune to breaking I will agree but it will make it a fair bit stronger by spreading the stress to other spots that currently are not supporting anything but are reinforced for some reason.
Anyways just did mine. My LHS had 1/8th inch "music wire" which in all truth is harder to bend than the stock tamiya pin. The music wire I can NOT bend with my bare hand like the tamiya pin
Actually was kinda shocked at how easy it was to make the pins exactly right. I knocked 4 out with no mistakes. Only thing I had to really measure was the fronts seeing if they are too long they will go through a screw hole. The rears no issues, from the angle djmelson's pics make it look like a close fit by the spur, I was kinda shocked when I poped the case open and seen it like quarter of an inch away from the spur.
Now I just need to drill out my 2nd DF-02 to allow the 2nd set I made to slide in
01-08-2011, 06:50 PM
#53
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RE: How I reinforced the Tamiya DF02 (Rising Storm) Chassis
Hi everyone. I'm new here, but I have the same issue that you guys have been discussing.
I just got this rc a few days before Christmas. It was actually bought from Target and boxed an a Monster XX from Extreme Machines... but it is really a Tamiya DF-02 repackaged with bigger tires and a truck body. I only bought it because I had a gift card for Target and only had to pay $43 out of pocket for it.
The first one arived and it was clear that it had been used. When I opened it I found the chassis was broken right at the front diff, I didn't give it any thought, just packed it up and sent it back. They sent me a new one to replace it and it seemed all good.
Fast forward to today... I was running in a parking lot waiting for my fiance to finish up some work at her office, I turned too short and smacked the concrete barrier with the front right wheel and things got a bit out of whack. When I pulled the front end apart I found that the pin had slipped partially out and bent and the plastic around the pin channel point was cracked. After examining it and trying to figure out what happened it is clear that the problem is a matter of leverage and that running the pin into the chassis would remedy this issue.
I ordered a new chassis, only one I could find was on ebay, has to come from Europe and cost me $23. (Any recomendations on where to get parts would be appreciated) When it comes in I will be doing this mod. I also plan to replace all other parts in stages with aluminum. My only concern about that is this... I see that the hole through the pin location on the chassis has to be slightly widened to accommodate the 1/8" rod, what about the lower control arms? Will I have to drill out the aluminum to make them fit?
Once this is all worked out I will have to work on getting the Jeep body to fit.
I just got this rc a few days before Christmas. It was actually bought from Target and boxed an a Monster XX from Extreme Machines... but it is really a Tamiya DF-02 repackaged with bigger tires and a truck body. I only bought it because I had a gift card for Target and only had to pay $43 out of pocket for it.
The first one arived and it was clear that it had been used. When I opened it I found the chassis was broken right at the front diff, I didn't give it any thought, just packed it up and sent it back. They sent me a new one to replace it and it seemed all good.
Fast forward to today... I was running in a parking lot waiting for my fiance to finish up some work at her office, I turned too short and smacked the concrete barrier with the front right wheel and things got a bit out of whack. When I pulled the front end apart I found that the pin had slipped partially out and bent and the plastic around the pin channel point was cracked. After examining it and trying to figure out what happened it is clear that the problem is a matter of leverage and that running the pin into the chassis would remedy this issue.
I ordered a new chassis, only one I could find was on ebay, has to come from Europe and cost me $23. (Any recomendations on where to get parts would be appreciated) When it comes in I will be doing this mod. I also plan to replace all other parts in stages with aluminum. My only concern about that is this... I see that the hole through the pin location on the chassis has to be slightly widened to accommodate the 1/8" rod, what about the lower control arms? Will I have to drill out the aluminum to make them fit?
Once this is all worked out I will have to work on getting the Jeep body to fit.
01-08-2011, 11:48 PM
#54
RE: How I reinforced the Tamiya DF02 (Rising Storm) Chassis
ORIGINAL: Dragonii
Hi everyone. I'm new here, but I have the same issue that you guys have been discussing.
I just got this rc a few days before Christmas. It was actually bought from Target and boxed an a Monster XX from Extreme Machines... but it is really a Tamiya DF-02 repackaged with bigger tires and a truck body. I only bought it because I had a gift card for Target and only had to pay $43 out of pocket for it.
The first one arived and it was clear that it had been used. When I opened it I found the chassis was broken right at the front diff, I didn't give it any thought, just packed it up and sent it back. They sent me a new one to replace it and it seemed all good.
Fast forward to today... I was running in a parking lot waiting for my fiance to finish up some work at her office, I turned too short and smacked the concrete barrier with the front right wheel and things got a bit out of whack. When I pulled the front end apart I found that the pin had slipped partially out and bent and the plastic around the pin channel point was cracked. After examining it and trying to figure out what happened it is clear that the problem is a matter of leverage and that running the pin into the chassis would remedy this issue.
I ordered a new chassis, only one I could find was on ebay, has to come from Europe and cost me $23. (Any recomendations on where to get parts would be appreciated) When it comes in I will be doing this mod. I also plan to replace all other parts in stages with aluminum. My only concern about that is this... I see that the hole through the pin location on the chassis has to be slightly widened to accommodate the 1/8'' rod, what about the lower control arms? Will I have to drill out the aluminum to make them fit?
Once this is all worked out I will have to work on getting the Jeep body to fit.
Hi everyone. I'm new here, but I have the same issue that you guys have been discussing.
I just got this rc a few days before Christmas. It was actually bought from Target and boxed an a Monster XX from Extreme Machines... but it is really a Tamiya DF-02 repackaged with bigger tires and a truck body. I only bought it because I had a gift card for Target and only had to pay $43 out of pocket for it.
The first one arived and it was clear that it had been used. When I opened it I found the chassis was broken right at the front diff, I didn't give it any thought, just packed it up and sent it back. They sent me a new one to replace it and it seemed all good.
Fast forward to today... I was running in a parking lot waiting for my fiance to finish up some work at her office, I turned too short and smacked the concrete barrier with the front right wheel and things got a bit out of whack. When I pulled the front end apart I found that the pin had slipped partially out and bent and the plastic around the pin channel point was cracked. After examining it and trying to figure out what happened it is clear that the problem is a matter of leverage and that running the pin into the chassis would remedy this issue.
I ordered a new chassis, only one I could find was on ebay, has to come from Europe and cost me $23. (Any recomendations on where to get parts would be appreciated) When it comes in I will be doing this mod. I also plan to replace all other parts in stages with aluminum. My only concern about that is this... I see that the hole through the pin location on the chassis has to be slightly widened to accommodate the 1/8'' rod, what about the lower control arms? Will I have to drill out the aluminum to make them fit?
Once this is all worked out I will have to work on getting the Jeep body to fit.
There is also some guy in japan that sells em cheap. J.D.T knows that place I've not had the need to buy from them yet.
BTW do NOT get aluminum arms they will only make the problem worst. I put aluminum arm on a RC once, and completely destroyed a bulkhead after one mild bump. This was on a RC I've cracked up many a times, and once I went back to plastic cracked it up many more times and not broke that part. The aluminum will only transfer all the energy the arm absorbs to the weakest piece which is the bulkhead that mounts the arm to the chassis.
Only really good parts in aluminum are the C-hubs, and knuckles. Shock towers are ok but still they put more stress on the chassis. Rear shock tower in plastic is the best bet personally if I had it to do over again I would have just drilled straight through the body mount post and put a screw from one end to the other to hold the body post, and shock on the tower. The front if you don't reinforce from the other side with the CF (or a piece of aluminum like I did on my buggy) it will shatter the plastic, and bend from a good hit.
But yes you have to drill through the arms holes to fit the 1/8th inch wire.
12-14-2012, 01:01 PM
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RE: How I reinforced the Tamiya DF02 (Rising Storm) Chassis
You guys must have been running the cars hard. I never broke a chassis before on the DF02. I ran a 19 turn brushed motor(because
it was competitive at the time) on that car for like 2 years and didnt break anything. Car was still in one-piece when i sold it.
I highly reccomend the sport tuned motor for this chassis. It gives you plenty of top end speed and sill maintain your runtime
I was getting at least 20 mins on a charged 3300 nimh pack.
it was competitive at the time) on that car for like 2 years and didnt break anything. Car was still in one-piece when i sold it.
I highly reccomend the sport tuned motor for this chassis. It gives you plenty of top end speed and sill maintain your runtime
I was getting at least 20 mins on a charged 3300 nimh pack.
11-20-2020, 08:50 AM
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U bolt upgrade kit available for DF-02 chassis
So both mine and my son's Tamiya DF02 Chassis's broke, in the exact same place... I've read of other accounts of it happening, so clearly a design flaw... here's where they broke, right where the lower suspension arm meets the chassis:
Attachment 2237790
So we ordered new chassis's, and decided to reinforce them such that they don't break again.
It seems that the problem is that the bent steel forks that reinforce the lower suspension arms are not supported by the chassis at the open end of the forks, so they really aren't very effective.
So the plan was to make the forks longer, and have the open ends of the forks extend into the chassis... thereby the chassis will support the open ends of the forks, and the whole assembly will be a heck of a lot stronger.
So first I got some 1/8" steel rod, and bent them into new forks. This took some trial and error to get the width correct, but wasn't too bad. To make the bends, I clamped them in a vice, and pounded them over with a hammer. This pic shows after the first bend was made, about to make the second bend.
Attachment 2237791
Here you can see the forks for the front and rear:
Attachment 2237792
Next to drill the new holes in the chassis. Using a drill bit slightly bigger than 1/8", I bored out the existing holes that support the suspension arms (they were slightly smaller than 1/8"), then continued the drill bit in until it drilled right into the chassis. Here you can see drilling into the rear of the chassis, we also did the same on the front of the chassis:
Attachment 2237793
Here you can see the rear fork extending into the chassis:
Attachment 2237794
Then it was just a matter of reassembling the cars. Here the car is partially reassembled, you can see the rear fork extending into the spur gear box:
Attachment 2237795
So we haven't fired up the cars yet, but I feel confident that the connection between the lower suspension arms and the chassis should be WAY stronger now.
Attachment 2237790
So we ordered new chassis's, and decided to reinforce them such that they don't break again.
It seems that the problem is that the bent steel forks that reinforce the lower suspension arms are not supported by the chassis at the open end of the forks, so they really aren't very effective.
So the plan was to make the forks longer, and have the open ends of the forks extend into the chassis... thereby the chassis will support the open ends of the forks, and the whole assembly will be a heck of a lot stronger.
So first I got some 1/8" steel rod, and bent them into new forks. This took some trial and error to get the width correct, but wasn't too bad. To make the bends, I clamped them in a vice, and pounded them over with a hammer. This pic shows after the first bend was made, about to make the second bend.
Attachment 2237791
Here you can see the forks for the front and rear:
Attachment 2237792
Next to drill the new holes in the chassis. Using a drill bit slightly bigger than 1/8", I bored out the existing holes that support the suspension arms (they were slightly smaller than 1/8"), then continued the drill bit in until it drilled right into the chassis. Here you can see drilling into the rear of the chassis, we also did the same on the front of the chassis:
Attachment 2237793
Here you can see the rear fork extending into the chassis:
Attachment 2237794
Then it was just a matter of reassembling the cars. Here the car is partially reassembled, you can see the rear fork extending into the spur gear box:
Attachment 2237795
So we haven't fired up the cars yet, but I feel confident that the connection between the lower suspension arms and the chassis should be WAY stronger now.
