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SC10 Factory Team

Old 06-26-2016, 05:23 PM
  #26  
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Trying to find out why the one front inner camber link ball stud keeps loosening by itself. RPM ball cups seem to be very tight, and I'm guessing the suspension articulating somehow works on loosening the ball stud little by little. After every few runs, I have to tighten it; I continue on. Never had RPM ball cup issues before this. They've always been snug after popping them on a RC, but never tight. Oh well, I will wait for them to break-in, and in the meantime I'll put a nut on the ball stud end.

Last edited by RustyUs; 06-26-2016 at 07:38 PM.
Old 06-27-2016, 03:35 AM
  #27  
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Default RPM A-Arms

It's official. The SC10 is now my daily basher. The RPM parts on this truck, I think helped, convinced me to run this SC hard. I don't think I've ever owned anything RPM other than their ball cups.

One spec on the SC10/T4 front arms that makes no sense to me. Why RPM doesn't sell replacement parts separately? Of course I know the answer. It's just one little irritation to myself and many others. If you use RPM SC10/T4 front arms, you have to use the RPM arm specific bulkhead and RPM's hinge pin retainers (screws). They (RPM) would IMO make more profits if they offered RCers individual pieces from a combo package. Once the bulkhead wears out, or the arms wear out, I probably will not get a replacement set unless I find a good deal. The stock Associated arms provide more than enough beef and better shock mounting.

Last edited by RustyUs; 06-27-2016 at 11:49 AM.
Old 06-27-2016, 12:58 PM
  #28  
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Default More or Less: Droop

When I was putting the front end together*, I noticed the front arms have quite a bit less droop than the rear. The front shocks have what's prescribed by the manual for the number of limiters on the shafts. I normally run my front ends at arms level ride height. Doing this means the shocks are almost (just a hair or two) at their full extension.

I like having my shocks to be able to move in either direction when normal ride height is set. So I went ahead and removed a couple of limiters from the shafts, two of the seven to be exact. While I had the shocks opened up, I put some 25wt. oil in there as well. Yes, I'm going for a super soft/plush ride **. All said and done...gained more droop, and got about 6mm of more tire travel now.

Will it have an effect on more chassis roll?
Will I be able to even tell?

Meh.

Gotta even the rear end out with 25wt oil as well. Or maybe change out the pistons** to the #2 (smaller holes) with some 20wt oil.

*You know you don't have to read this.
**Shhhhh. I just need an excuse to use up my Losi 25 and 20 wt. oils .
Old 07-02-2016, 08:56 AM
  #29  
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After a few more packs put through the SC10, 25wt shock oil seems to the sweet spot in all four corners. I ran out of 25wt, so I mixed half of the shock with some 20wt for the rear. It'll do for now until my parts order comes in, and I can stick straight Associated/Lucas 25wt oil in the shocks. I like to stick with one brand of oil, 'cause I know jumping from one 25wt to another brand's 25wt oil may be a little different.

Standing in the middle of the track, I get to watch close-up on how the suspension is working. That's one enjoyment for me...watching short course truck's tires getting soak up into the wheel wells of the body.
Old 07-05-2016, 03:30 PM
  #30  
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Default 17mm Hex Adaptors

I just had to try 'em. I still gotta shave 1mm off of the adapters for a more perfect fit. Should be a hooting, body rubbing good time . Sorry you have to see the included, multi-colored,disposable, bashing body that I'm trying to destroy .

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Old 08-14-2016, 10:15 AM
  #31  
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Default Back to normal.

After finding out original owner had included beadlock wheels made for the Slash/Blitz, I just opted for some stock SC10.2 wheels to glue up.

I do believe my beadlock days are behind me with this SC10 . I personally like the look of the KMC wheels better anyways...also better looking than my AOC CRT monitor from 1997 .
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Last edited by RustyUs; 08-14-2016 at 10:24 AM.
Old 08-18-2016, 12:47 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by RustyUs
With 3.5* negative camber all the way around, and the new shock placement, I was able to get the tires to find a good amount of traction.
Dialed it (camber) back to -2.5* in the rear and -2* on the front when using Badlands and Gladiators up front.

Would you believe it? The other day I had destroyed one of my motor bearings and noticed the spur gear moving a tad. I thought I blew a top shaft bearing(s) along with the one on the motor. After putting in new bearings on the top shaft I still had a bit of a wiggle. Now I was getting frustrated, cause I've put together Associated trannies for many, many years. Popped the PDF manual on the monitor...boom! The top shaft spacer was missing the whole time! No wonder I had a hard time getting the proper mesh. I went back to diggin' through spare parts box, and found chop shop new tranny to rob from. That spacer took out all of the wiggle on the top shaft. I can't wait to hear the tranny now, cause it was so quiet when I first took the SC10 out for it's first shakedown.

I should have taken my own advice when buying used RCs, or at least when you get one in your hands. Always, take it apart and build it back up per the manual. My initial inspection of this RC was not with a fine tooth comb like I said earlier. It was more like using a hair pick .

I'm now officially calling the original owner of this SC10 a moron. I'm a moron for thinking C-clips and wheel spacer issues would be the end of previous owner stupid-ness .
Old 10-30-2016, 07:02 AM
  #33  
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Default Update to Arrma's Spur

Originally Posted by RustyUs
I forgot to mention that I was digging in my stash for a 87T spur gear. The 75T that was on the SC10 had to go.

For Christmas, as requested, my wife got me a crap load of Armma's SPUR GEAR (87T,48DP) #AR310019 to use. They are similar in design to Associated Kimbrough's that I normally use and love. The Arrma spurs are a perfect fit. Even the Associated slipper pads fit with no mods.

Don't ask about the longevity. Haven't got there yet.
Update: I normally have no use for 75t spur gears except on 17.5T motor buggy. After messing with other RC's tranny, I had to bore out (minuscule amount) my Associated 75T spur gear, to fit on my other RC's 5mm top shaft. Associated spurs ride on a 3/16" shaft, and Arrma spurs are 5mm bore. With four months worth of hard running put on the Arrma spur, and no issues...the difference of nine thousandths of an inch is not enough to deter me from using Arrma's gears on Associated top shaft.
Old 03-06-2017, 11:06 AM
  #34  
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Default No Aluminum This Time

My SC10 was bought used, and I thought I weeded out all the little mishaps that the previous owner did to his "racer?". I can't believe I'm still finding things that aren't quite right .

I am just now finishing up where I left off in November. I threw the truck in the garage and there it sat until now. I knew there was issues with bearings being shot, and diff needed rebuilt. In order to do what I had to do... all I can say is--I'm NOT a fan of aluminum screws. Especially when tightening them down into plastic/composite chassis. I've done the whole "weight savings thing" way back when. I don't know the exact weight a person saves by swapping out steel to aluminum screws. I know it's not much. In the case of short course truck racing that the previous owner was doing, I think the blue screws were used to match all the other blue "bling".

The two screws that connect the motor guard to tranny case are about useless, because the heads are almost stripped, and not to mention they are the wrong length (too short ).

I don't think it mattered, but all it takes is one good hard chassis slap to ruin your day. Having everything tightened down correctly; with the correct length of steel screws, just makes me feel better.
Old 04-23-2017, 07:58 AM
  #35  
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Default Diff Adjustment

Since the cleanup and rebuild of the shocks/tranny, I've been running/bashing this thing pretty hard until finding out the diff is needing adjustment. Ever since I got this truck, I was always impressed with the quietness of the gears. Probably one of the quietest Associated gearboxes I have ever built (rebuilt...whatever ). The normally quiet tranny is now starting to "bark". Not as pronounced of a noise as my other Associated trannies. When a diff finally lets loose , you generally will know it. The diff was almost in the higher range of the "barking" sound...I had first thought my slipper was coming loose.

Brought the truck in, and put it on the stand. Using the Cavalieri method (that's what I call it) to adjust tightness of the ball diff, and I'll get it as close as possible to real running conditions. The thrust bolt needed a full turn to tighten up the diff. Hopefully the t-nut is up to the task to hold this adjustment.

Another note to add: The same x-rings, that I thought might be too hard on another RC's shock shafts, seem to be sealing the SC10's shocks pretty well. No oil collecting at bottom shock caps, and no air slipping in at the moment. Will definitely have to keep an eye on the x-ring effectiveness.
Old 07-07-2017, 07:31 PM
  #36  
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Default Team Associated SC10.3 Announced

Originally Posted by RustyUs
After completing 99% of a buggy, and a stadium truck build, I still have some spare chop shop parts laying around.

My long time friend (eBay chop shop) has produced a SC10 chassis that's screaming, "DO SOMETHING WITH ME!" Anyway, Team Associated is not afraid to keep the T4 platform going. With the SC10 RTRs still being produced/sold; the T4.3 coming out, and the SC10.2 FT being discontinued, I'll call this....
my SC10.3

Ahhh. I can't sit around all day doing this. I gotta make it look like I did something (clean up around the house, laundry, etc.) before the wife and kids get home .
I never saw this coming...
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I was only joking when I called my spare short course parts build a SC10.3. I was going to start new thread on the announcement of the Team Associated SC10.3 , but it's just a lightly updated basic SC10 with updated electronics. Still a great platform. Still a great basher. Oh well. I am okay with minor upgrade and new body option. It just means parts will be around that much longer.

Last edited by RustyUs; 07-09-2017 at 10:52 AM.
Old 07-09-2017, 11:17 AM
  #37  
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Default CVD Set Screw

Having a ruff day with ESC and what seems to be a LVC/battery bullet issue.

Wouldn't you know it. After talking, in another thread, about what lube to use on a CVD, my one pin, on my SC10, has worked it's way to one side of the CVD.

I have this SC truck, that was used, and it uses one older CVD (set screw), and one newer CVD that captures the pin with a metal ring. I've good luck with set/grub screws normally. Not today. As I wait for the thread lock to dry, I'll prep a buggy for it's torture on the track.

I have in the past made a flat spot on 1/8 truggy pins to really secure them with a set screw. I've never cracked, or snapped one from tightening down a set screw to a pin. Heck, some of them pins on the truggy already came machined with flat spots. Machining and me eyeballing a flat spot are two different things. I can't remember ever using a Dremel to make a flat spot on a 1/10 CVD pin. My guess, depending on how much material I would take off, the possibility of weakening the pin then exists. Right?
Old 08-20-2017, 10:50 AM
  #38  
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Replaced low budget 60A ESC with my Speed Passion Reventon S. Sure it may only be a 40 amp ESC, but specs give it a go for ≥ 9.5T motors. The SC10 deserves a reliable ESC.

Last edited by RustyUs; 08-20-2017 at 05:06 PM. Reason: spelling
Old 08-20-2017, 05:07 PM
  #39  
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Default C'mon Man!

Wouldn't you know it. One thing fixed, and get almost one pack ran through the truck...something else happens . Clickity, click, click, grrrrrrrrr, then no power to the tires. I thought for sure it was the motor coming undone from the mount, or pinion gear set screw, but I normally don't have problems with those screws. After getting the gear cover off, I realized something inside gearbox was the issue...

It's been over a year since I acquired this truck, and who knows how long previous owner had the idler gear in there. Heck, it's been so long since I've changed ilder gears on my other Associated "4" series platforms, I've put most of the tranny spares in storage room .
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Old 09-11-2017, 08:44 AM
  #40  
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It's been a couple of weeks since blown motor bearing and the melting of spur gear. I should of taken the tranny apart then.

Fifteen runs in and time for teardown/rebuild. Shocks getting new oil/o-rings, and bearings cleaned/re-lubed.

Even though I'm a backyard "basher", I still run and setup my RCs for different backyard track conditions. Tweaking this, and that to see if performance/drive-ability improves or I need to try something else. Other than shock oils, I don't stray too far from the stock SC10 setup most of the time. Some days I just go to the extremes in adjustments just to see positive/negative effects.

Today's adjustment testing will be the wheelbase extremes.
Old 09-11-2017, 12:18 PM
  #41  
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I cant do anything to the front caster blocks, as far as moving them forward and aft goes, because RPM arms are use. The 4mm of wheelbase adjustment, on the rear hub carriers...is it enough to make a difference? I would say, yes, indeed it does. Especially if are going from longest wheelbase to shortest wheelbase. Previous owner had the SC10 as long as it could be. Well, sort of. When I did my bi-weekly rebuild, I found no spacers, so the truck had variable wheelbase because of it .

I ran the truck with rear hub carriers all the way back, then I moved the spacers; pushing the carriers all the way forward (shortest wheelbase). Just getting on the throttle was a nicer feel coming out of the corners. I assume there is more weight on the rear tires with the shorter wheelbase. I wish I had two scales to see how much weight is shifted between the two settings.
Old 05-28-2018, 08:15 AM
  #42  
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Default cvd --> cva

When I got my used SC10, it had a weird setup, that's for sure. One side of the driveline had a CVD, and the other side had a CVA axle. My brad nail fix for the CVD joint finally let loose the other night. I was going to fix the CVD pin again, but opted for putting in a CVA axle setup to match the other side once and for all. The CVA pin retainer ring certainly puts my mind more at ease when bashing away. The racers don't do it, and the manual doesn't call for it, but for xtra insurance, a set screw is used and thread locked as well.

Last edited by RustyUs; 05-28-2018 at 03:34 PM.
Old 05-17-2020, 04:52 PM
  #43  
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FlySky FS-GT3C radio system being taken out...

The radio and receiver work fine. It's the first FlySky FS-GT3C that I bought. The picture above shows what has been bouncing around inside the FS-GR3E receiver for four years on my SC10 chassis.
Old 05-17-2020, 05:07 PM
  #44  
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Swapping out FlySky receiver with new Futaba FASST compatible receiver. My FlySky FS-GT3C radio has been through a lot, and held up very well. I can't believe it myself. Nothing wrong with the radio, or receiver. It's just time to show my SC10 some love and mate it with my trusty Futaba 3PM.

Thought about using a receiver box from the RTR SC10 RS, but it's just too bulky to allow placement of my sticky weights.

The twenty something dollar price tag of the FASST compatible receiver sure beats paying the $79 for overpriced Futaba.

My fourteen year old RC buddy.

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