DieHarder

Yes! I bought two sets for my Evaders. They showed up today and by the looks, they are serious! They use a solid pin that has a retaining-set screw, just like MIP drive shafts. They are super smooth. Also, the shank between the gearbox and the CV joint is bigger in diameter. You can see where it changes diameter and I compared them to EXT dogbones. These things look really beefy, are really smooth, and I can't wait to get them on and try them out. For $6.76 when they used to be like $16, I've very glad I bought them.

I also bought the last set of DT progressive springs that Tower had. They're for the front, so I'm interested to see how those handle. They were only $0.91.

DieHarder

Also, for anybody interested in some cheap brand new 2.2 Badlands - the ones that are discontinued. I bought three sets from this guy:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/PRO-LINE-11...AAAOSwB9BZyqge

He has more than 10 available. They showed up fast and are just as described. $13/set is a steal! They fit the DTX rims and look great on my Evaders.

DieHarder

Ok, I have an update on the CVDs....

I'm pretty sure its not bad luck since it happened twice. I bought two sets, one for each Evader. I take my youngest sister (she's 13) to the track and she drives one of the Evaders. Before installing the CVDs, I checked the tightness on the set screws for the joint pins, they went a little tighter and the CV joints stiffened up a bit. I wiggled them and they smoothed out some, but I figured they would break in after the first run. One thing too, the shaft part where the wheel slides on to engage with the pin, the shaft is slightly bigger in diameter than the old EXT drive shafts. I had to drill my wheels out about 0.010" bigger to get them to slide on, and they went on tightly at that. Also, the dogbone end of the CV (the part that goes into the differential) hangs in the last 1/3 of the slot in the diff outdrive, a little far out IMO. Even with suspension changes, the furthest it goes into the outdrive is like 1/2 way. So I put an outdrive spring in each diff outdrive, just because. In summary, I think the shafts should be a little longer, but they work fine.

Anyway, all was well for about 8min on the track. I went over a jump and I'm one of those guys that tries to control flight. lol Mid-air it was starting to nose dive, so I goosed it to bring the front end back up for a nice, even landing. With the increased wheel speed, the tire was going a lot faster than the ground that was going by when it landed. Then when the back tires touched down and immediately slowed up, the drivetrain still had all this momentum and the immediate stop of the wheels seriously loaded the CVDs. So when I landed the jump, I heard a distinct *ping* and had no drive.

The CVDs broke. If you follow the CVD out from the gearbox (going towards the wheels), the shaft narrows down to where it turns into part of the CV joint. Right where it narrows down, there is not a lot of metal and it snapped right there. So I had the CV joint going around with the wheel and the dogbone/broken shaft going with the driveshaft, which immediately fell out on to the track, thanks to that outdrive spring I decided to put in for no reason. I found the shaft though.

So like I said earlier, my Evader lasted 8min of running. About two minutes later, my youngest sister did the same maneuver (she's quite the driver, the guys are all impressed with her 2WD corner-drifting skills haha) and the same *ping* happened. Only one CVD breaks because the power gets transferred to the broken shaft.

Now I have 2 of 4 CVDs and I'll be switching back to Dogbones and EXT axles. I had high hopes for these CVDS. DTX beefed up the shaft diameters, but unfortunately they have this weak point in the CV joint. At least I only paid $6.76/set... Anyway, forget about my high recommendation in post #2501. These things just aren't as durable as they look...

On another note, the DT progressive front springs are awesome! The truck handles better over little bumps. Those fine coils just suck it up and allow you to steer around corners where you normally would be struggling with bouncing wheels and under-steer. They turn a rough and difficult track into a much more drivable experience.

HOskitz

Gday guys I haven't been on in a while but anyways... I can't seem to find the metal gear diff for my Evader EXT online, is there any other metal diff gear options out there that can fit? The transmission in this truck worries me the most.
Also I have seen metal diff bevel gear set (DXTC7339) I was wondering if it's worth buying and installing it

HOskitz

Boys enjoy your Christmas Holiday with your family, friends, RC etc !

RustyUs

There is no other diff out there that will drop in. The all metal diff gear from the Evader Brushless platform, and EXT hop-up option is nowhere to be found online. If you can find a couple of EXT diff cases DTXC7340, or complete diffs DTXC7338 you should grab 'em. The bevel gear set DXTC7339, that was mentioned in earlier post, is the stock bevel gears in the EXT/Brushless Evader platform's diffs.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

The metal bevel gear set is the same as what's in the stock diff. That's not usually the problem. Putting a big motor in the car is. And the slipper clutch never seemed to hold its adjustment. So you have all that torque being applied to plastic teeth on the diff. Wanna put a brushless system in your Evader? Fine. Just don't put a big torque monster in it and you should be ok.

HOskitz

My plastic spur gear keeps stripping, the pinion and spur spacing should be fine but I'm bummed about why the teeth gets shaved just after one run? I think it's because of the pinion that keeps loosening from the shaft thus creating it to be uneven. I tried blue loctite before and it still manages to set free. Maybe I should try red perm loctite?
Thanks again

RustyUs

If the mesh of a spur/pinion gear is set right, the spur should last months with daily usage. I like to use receipt paper if I have time, but If I am away from garage/pit/house, I do set mesh by feel. After awhile one gets pretty good at proper space needed to rock the spur gear back and forth ever so slightly.

RustyUs

The whole "red" Loctite thing...I'd not recommend doing that. A good hex driver and sometimes blue (medium) thread lock are all that should used to secure a pinion gear. A worn out "L" wrench or soft Allen wrench/hex driver will make tightening and removal of a grub/set screw frustrating. I can't emphasize enough the importance of a good hex driver with sharp/crisp edges. If you need to use thread lock on pinion gear, use heat to break it down for easier removal of set screw. Mini torch, lighter, or even soldering iron tip have been used to heat up grub/set screw's cured thread lock.

DieHarder

On those pinion set screws, make sure you are using the right size driver. I've made this mistake many times and stripped out the drive on the screw head. Then I found out that most of my pinion set screws are actually 1/16" and not 1.5mm like I had been using.

1/16" is slightly bigger than 1.5mm and will make all the difference in screw heads designed for them.

RustyUs

Well, this might be one of the strangest sounds I've heard from a RC. It reminded me of The Jetsons...

Not sure what it's about, but my Evader ST's tranny has just gone through an inspection, cleaning, and bearing relube. Four packs later, this noise shows up.

Is it time to let go?

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Warped slipper clutch?

RustyUs

Yeah, I thought it had to be something of a larger gear, or tire outta whack, because of the wobbally sound. I was hoping I didn't have to dig too far into the tranny.

After making me upset with it's proformance, I put the ST away for awhile, and just ran my other trucks on the track. I didn't want to deal with a complete tear down.

After taking the gear cover off, it was obvious what the issue was. The pinion gear had come loose just enough to move to one side of the spur gear.

This is the second set screw to come loose in a week. Not sure what that's about. Probably old age, and afraid to snug down the set screw too much. I'll be adding some thread lock to my set screws again.



Third of the way around the spur gear.

RustyUs

I had been using an Armma 87T spur gear (in post above) with a 27T pinion gear. After deciding to go back to a stock Brushless Evader 86T spur gear, I realized there is no room for a 27T pinion gear. The motor is as far back as can be. The motor is butted up against the motor guard. Slapping on a 26T pinion the motor...it just barely fits.

Maximum pinion gear to be used with a 86T spur gear= 26T pinion

For some reason the idiot (me) managed to wedge in 27/87 gears and get a perfect mesh. Turns out, that perfect mesh must have been from me being on some sort of good medicine or some weird magic. It just is not possible (see picture in previous post) .

I will compensate with timing of motor to see if I can regain some lost speed with the new gearing.

RustyUs

Now that the weather is cooperating better, I'm curious to put my CVDs on and see I can bust them as well. I was gonna wait until I wore out my current dogbones, but now that have gearing issue fixed, it's time to see if all the CVDs are junk, or if yours were from a bad batch.

RustyUs

I opened up a pack of CVDs to check the set screws. One set screw seemed to have enough thread lock on it, as it was a bit tough to unscrew it, but the other set screw barely had anything on it . I put some blue Loctite "capstick" on the threads and will let cure while I bash the Evader with current setup.

RustyUs

I'm using well broken-in Losi wheels that were made for 3/16" axles, and they went on the new 5mm CVD axles fine. Maybe a snug fit, not any tougher to get on than before, but I didn't have to roughhouse them on. If the axles were out of tolerance too great, they would not have been able to pass through the bearing.

Yes, the dogbone end does ride pretty far out in the outdrives, but I don't think it's any worse than when I'm running plain dogbones. You can see in the pics where my dogbone has worn down the center of the outdrive. When using the CVDs; at full droop, there is still room on the outdrives so as not to bind anything up.



Full droop.



Full droop. Swapped left/right outdrives to wear down other side of slot.

After a few runs around the track, no issues yet. I'm only running a 14.5T motor, but I still land jumps many times WOT. Running with slipper on the conservative side probably helps take the stress out of the equation a bit. Yes? For me running on a loose track, that's another plus in the CVD's favor I think. Time will tell.

RustyUs

More battery packs being put through the old Evader ST chassis, minor steering issue cleaned up, spur gear not melting, and testing the waters with threadlockers on wheel nuts is paying off... I must have wiped away the notions of getting rid of the "Duratrash" platform . So much so, that I just ordered two battery straps and a few more outdrives since they were dirt cheap on Tower Hobbies. To be on the safe side, I got the battery straps, 'cause my current one is seeing a good deal of wear from being stretched around my LiPo batteries. That should pretty much end my parts needs for the platform, hopefully.


I will confess, I got rid of my near-new ST Pro that I had kept around for spare graphite parts. I broke even with the deal, so I was happy about that. Before I could even put one of my Brushless Evader Assembled Differential on RCU's for sale section, it was gone on eBay.

DieHarder

Rusty, I'm glad your CVDs are holding up. Now that you mentioned the slipper clutch, that was probably my issue. I was running both Evaders with locked slippers on a carpet track with jumps. That combo is likely what broke them I guess. Running it on dirt w/ a functioning slipper like you are doing would be a lot easier on them. As far as the pin riding close to the end of the outdrive, I've seen on other trucks where that outdrive slot has opened up and it was because of weak metal and having the pin far out like that. But Duratrax seems to have hardened the EXT axles, I've sheared them off before, they don't bend. So it's probably all good in this case.

But Rusty, I can't believe you had an assembled BL diff for sale! I would've bought it if I had known, I've got two disassembled new diffs in my parts stash, but could always use another. Maybe next time, but man, those things are hard to find. I purchased the last ones on Amazon when they discontinued them like two years ago. Also, if you need parts Rusty, I have A LOT of stuff. Been buying quite a bit of NOS parts and a couple rollers. Just let me know bro.

RustyUs

I didn't think someone would buy the all gear diff. It was priced pretty steep, but reasonable. Maybe I should've jack the price even more. Oh, well. I tried putting the Brushless Evader diff on RCU's Marketplace, but that's all messed up now. I cant post items for sale as I get an error message after filling in the Country, State, Zip page.

I got two more all gear diffs for spares. I figure they should last me a good many years, which is why I got rid of one. I don't see me running the Evader ST longer than 20 years from now . Who knows, all it takes is a bad week of RCing to put me in a bad mood, and up for sale something goes.

A red, white, and blue EXT body


is all I got for a spare lid now. I really wish I'd snatch a clear EXT lid when I had the chance, or even the charcoal gray, white one. The blue on my spare body almost looks purple is some forms of light... I really dislike purple.

RustyUs

LOL. After checking the interwebs for EXT bodies...https://www.amazon.com/Duratrax-Deca...rax+evader+ext

Who's going to pay $102.14 for a Duratrax body?!

HOskitz

Hey guys I recently bought a Savox digital SW-0231 servo and it didn't fit in my Evader EXT
What's a the best budget servo I could get for the truck
Thanks boys

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Kinda surprised it doesn't fit. They making "standard servos" bigger these days? Hmmm...considering that servo brace in the EXT, maybe I'm not surprised. A good old Hitec 645 MG (there's probably other letters associated with it) but get the cheapest metal gear standard size servo of the 645 or 625 variety Hitec makes these days. Check the specs of the Savox and Hitec case dimensions to be sure.

RustyUs

This might explain it..."The SW-0231MG is a budget friendly, waterproof, high torque, digital servo in a slightly taller case than most standard sizes."

When I think of a standard servo sizes, I think of 40mm (L) x 20mm (W) x 38mm (H) for general dimensions. That Savox servo is 42.9mm in height. Some platforms are more picky than others when it comes to servos. A lot of servo mounting "craziness" can be seen in cramped spaces. If you put some time and effort into searching for different mounts/spacers, you can usually get a servo to fit. But, in the SW-0231MG servo's case, that thing is quite tall and might never get the proper angle on steering linkage.

Just to add to the mess...servo arms and their offsets, combined with location of ball joint mounted under/on top of servo arm, that all can be a head scratching event .