The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
05-13-2013, 03:49 AM
#1251
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
ORIGINAL: cumquat
the imprint on the stock spur is meant to hold the pad in place while you crank the plate down. all you have to do is keep it centered. or you could do what i do and ditch the pad.
the imprint on the stock spur is meant to hold the pad in place while you crank the plate down. all you have to do is keep it centered. or you could do what i do and ditch the pad.
05-13-2013, 04:23 AM
#1253
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Don't ditch the pad!?!?! Thats all the grip right there!
I guess your right about keeping it centered when cranking it down though.
I guess your right about keeping it centered when cranking it down though.
05-13-2013, 04:30 AM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Robinson Racing spurs don't have the hex imprint, but Duratrax Evader BRUSHLESS spurs do. So with out the imprint to guide the pad, the pad won't be centered. You'll have to eyeball it.
05-13-2013, 04:55 AM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
ORIGINAL: DieHard1207
Don't ditch the pad!?!?! Thats all the grip right there!
I guess your right about keeping it centered when cranking it down though.
Don't ditch the pad!?!?! Thats all the grip right there!
I guess your right about keeping it centered when cranking it down though.
05-13-2013, 04:59 AM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
I think I'll just buy a couple of the brushless evader spurs, maybe a 78 tooth? I'm running a losi 4800kv brushless with a 19 pinion and the stock ext2 spur. Its way undergeared as it is now. Maybe ill jump to a 23t pinion with 78 spur. How does that sound?
05-13-2013, 09:52 AM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Crazy! 78 Spur?! I'm running 23/87, and am getting 52mph! Then again, my tires are 5" OD, so it does make a difference. I'd go 25/87, or 19/78. Mess around with it, and try a few different things...
05-13-2013, 11:58 AM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
I think a 23/78 may be too high. For a reference point, Duratrax ships the brushless evader with a 24/88 set up. That's a ratio of .2727 but it's with a 3950 kV motor. You're running a bit bigger motor so you might want a slightly lower overall ratio. You are running 19/88 = .2159. That's about 20% smaller than DTX's factory setup. A 23/78 = .2949 so that's about 10% higher than the stock brushless. Going from a 19/88 to a 23/78 is a 37% jump. That's huge.
DH's suggestions give you: 25/87 = .2874 and 19/78 = .2436 I'd try a 22/88 = .2500 or 23/88 = .2614 and watch the motor temp. Another thing to think about is whether or not you can get the mesh right with small gear combos like a 19 pinion and a 78 spur. You may have to enlarge the slots in the motor plate.
DH's suggestions give you: 25/87 = .2874 and 19/78 = .2436 I'd try a 22/88 = .2500 or 23/88 = .2614 and watch the motor temp. Another thing to think about is whether or not you can get the mesh right with small gear combos like a 19 pinion and a 78 spur. You may have to enlarge the slots in the motor plate.
ORIGINAL: dtxandtrx
I think I'll just buy a couple of the brushless evader spurs, maybe a 78 tooth? I'm running a losi 4800kv brushless with a 19 pinion and the stock ext2 spur. Its way undergeared as it is now. Maybe ill jump to a 23t pinion with 78 spur. How does that sound?
I think I'll just buy a couple of the brushless evader spurs, maybe a 78 tooth? I'm running a losi 4800kv brushless with a 19 pinion and the stock ext2 spur. Its way undergeared as it is now. Maybe ill jump to a 23t pinion with 78 spur. How does that sound?
05-13-2013, 12:00 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
ORIGINAL: egbasher
I think a 23/78 may be too high. For a reference point, Duratrax ships the brushless evader with a 24/88 set up. That's a ratio of .2727 but it's with a 3950 kV motor. You're running a bit bigger motor so you might want a slightly lower overall ratio. You are running 19/88 = .2159. That's about 20% smaller than DTX's factory setup. A 23/78 = .2949 so that's about 10% higher than the stock brushless. Going from a 19/88 to a 23/78 is a 37% jump. That's huge.
DH's suggestions give you: 25/87 = .2874 and 19/78 = .2436 I'd try a 22/88 = .2500 or 23/88 = .2614 and watch the motor temp. Another thing to think about is whether or not you can get the mesh right with small gear combos like a 19 pinion and a 78 spur. You may have to enlarge the slots in the motor plate.
I think a 23/78 may be too high. For a reference point, Duratrax ships the brushless evader with a 24/88 set up. That's a ratio of .2727 but it's with a 3950 kV motor. You're running a bit bigger motor so you might want a slightly lower overall ratio. You are running 19/88 = .2159. That's about 20% smaller than DTX's factory setup. A 23/78 = .2949 so that's about 10% higher than the stock brushless. Going from a 19/88 to a 23/78 is a 37% jump. That's huge.
DH's suggestions give you: 25/87 = .2874 and 19/78 = .2436 I'd try a 22/88 = .2500 or 23/88 = .2614 and watch the motor temp. Another thing to think about is whether or not you can get the mesh right with small gear combos like a 19 pinion and a 78 spur. You may have to enlarge the slots in the motor plate.
ORIGINAL: dtxandtrx
I think I'll just buy a couple of the brushless evader spurs, maybe a 78 tooth? I'm running a losi 4800kv brushless with a 19 pinion and the stock ext2 spur. Its way undergeared as it is now. Maybe ill jump to a 23t pinion with 78 spur. How does that sound?
I think I'll just buy a couple of the brushless evader spurs, maybe a 78 tooth? I'm running a losi 4800kv brushless with a 19 pinion and the stock ext2 spur. Its way undergeared as it is now. Maybe ill jump to a 23t pinion with 78 spur. How does that sound?
05-13-2013, 06:18 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Math problem?!?!
I think I might retire the Evader.... Today, I was doing some speed runs down our dirt road. I hit the breaks to end the run, and it didn't stop very fast. So I turned it around, and hit the throttle and nothing happened. I listened closely and could here from a distance, the sound of a spur ripping. When I got close, I looked at it. I hit the throttle again and watched what happened. The pinion, spur and whole top shaft assembly spun. But there was no action coming out of the outdrives. I think I actually broke my bullet-proof transmission. [:@] Gosh, I'm sure the diff is floating in metal chips... I suspect either the idler (hopefully) or the top shaft. Man, this could be the end of the "Vadster". It needs the tranny problem fixed, a new spur, new front tires (Have the rims), new antenna straw, and a shock rebuild kit. The rear left shock cap blew off for some reason and oil went everywhere. The whole car is just a mess... I have dumped over a $1000 into it over it's lifetime, and the whole car alone, is only worth $250. [:@] I'm sick of spending every dime I get my hands on, on it. Man it gets annoying after awile.
What do you guys think I should do? Scrap it, rebuild it, or fix it at bare minimum price?
05-13-2013, 06:27 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
I'd say only do what's needed. You don't need tires and a shock rebuild to at least run your truck. Ive had the same shocks on my dads stampede since be bought it in 1999! i dont think he did much running with it until he gave it to me 3 years ago. And if possible keep it under 30$, and then you can at least run the truck and decide if you really want to retire it. What other trucks do you have to run?
05-13-2013, 11:24 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Sure. The numbers after the decimal represent the gear ratio between the pinion and the spur. The numbers after the decimals are just the decimal equivalent of the two digit pinion/spur tooth numbers. So a 19 tooth pinion paired with an 88 tooth spur is 19/88. 19 divided by 88 equals .2159 Just citing two pairs of numbers makes it hard to tell which ratio is bigger or smaller. For example: which is a bigger ratio? 18/78 or a 21/87. Gotta do the math. 18/78 = .2308 and 21/87 = .2414, so the 21/87 is a tiny bit higher. You probably wouldn't notice much of difference in the way a car drives with that small a change (less than 5%). I usually shoot for a ratio change to about 10 -15 percent. That's enough of a change to make the car drive differrently. If you go from a 19/88 to a 22/88 that's about a 15% in gear ratio. As the decimal number (the gear ratio) gets bigger it means the motor turns slower for a given road speed. Another way to say this is, that as the ratio gets larger the car will go faster for a given engine speed. So if you increase the ratio by 20% (and your motor will spin to max rpm with both gear sets) then, theoretically, the car should be going 20% faster. The way to do this is to either increase the pinion size or decrease the spur size. Expressing the gear ratio as a decimal just makes it easier to compare ratios.
Not sure what you mean by "higher teeth". If you mean a higher gear ratio, which is what you want, then a higher number of teeth on the pinion gives you that but a lower number of teeth on the spur accomplishes the same thing.
Hope this makes sense.
Not sure what you mean by "higher teeth". If you mean a higher gear ratio, which is what you want, then a higher number of teeth on the pinion gives you that but a lower number of teeth on the spur accomplishes the same thing.
Hope this makes sense.
ORIGINAL: dtxandtrx
Do you think you could give a shot at explaining the numbers with the decimals in front of them? I understand the gears and I need higher teeth. But what do the numbers represent?
ORIGINAL: egbasher
I think a 23/78 may be too high. For a reference point, Duratrax ships the brushless evader with a 24/88 set up. That's a ratio of .2727 but it's with a 3950 kV motor. You're running a bit bigger motor so you might want a slightly lower overall ratio. You are running 19/88 = .2159. That's about 20% smaller than DTX's factory setup. A 23/78 = .2949 so that's about 10% higher than the stock brushless. Going from a 19/88 to a 23/78 is a 37% jump. That's huge.
DH's suggestions give you: 25/87 = .2874 and 19/78 = .2436 I'd try a 22/88 = .2500 or 23/88 = .2614 and watch the motor temp. Another thing to think about is whether or not you can get the mesh right with small gear combos like a 19 pinion and a 78 spur. You may have to enlarge the slots in the motor plate.
I think a 23/78 may be too high. For a reference point, Duratrax ships the brushless evader with a 24/88 set up. That's a ratio of .2727 but it's with a 3950 kV motor. You're running a bit bigger motor so you might want a slightly lower overall ratio. You are running 19/88 = .2159. That's about 20% smaller than DTX's factory setup. A 23/78 = .2949 so that's about 10% higher than the stock brushless. Going from a 19/88 to a 23/78 is a 37% jump. That's huge.
DH's suggestions give you: 25/87 = .2874 and 19/78 = .2436 I'd try a 22/88 = .2500 or 23/88 = .2614 and watch the motor temp. Another thing to think about is whether or not you can get the mesh right with small gear combos like a 19 pinion and a 78 spur. You may have to enlarge the slots in the motor plate.
ORIGINAL: dtxandtrx
I think I'll just buy a couple of the brushless evader spurs, maybe a 78 tooth? I'm running a losi 4800kv brushless with a 19 pinion and the stock ext2 spur. Its way undergeared as it is now. Maybe ill jump to a 23t pinion with 78 spur. How does that sound?
I think I'll just buy a couple of the brushless evader spurs, maybe a 78 tooth? I'm running a losi 4800kv brushless with a 19 pinion and the stock ext2 spur. Its way undergeared as it is now. Maybe ill jump to a 23t pinion with 78 spur. How does that sound?
05-13-2013, 11:27 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
It may not be as bad as you think DH. Take apart the diff. It may just be the drive pins on the big bevel gears. Cost you less than a buck to fix. Do you have the brushless diff in there?
ORIGINAL: DieHard1207
Math problem?!?!
I think I might retire the Evader.... Today, I was doing some speed runs down our dirt road. I hit the breaks to end the run, and it didn't stop very fast. So I turned it around, and hit the throttle and nothing happened. I listened closely and could here from a distance, the sound of a spur ripping. When I got close, I looked at it. I hit the throttle again and watched what happened. The pinion, spur and whole top shaft assembly spun. But there was no action coming out of the outdrives. I think I actually broke my bullet-proof transmission. [:@]Gosh, I'm sure the diff is floating in metal chips... I suspect either the idler (hopefully) or the top shaft. Man, this could be the end of the "Vadster". It needs the tranny problem fixed, a new spur, new front tires (Have the rims), new antenna straw, and a shock rebuild kit. The rear left shock cap blew off for some reason and oil went everywhere. The whole car is just a mess... I have dumped over a $1000 into it over it's lifetime, and the whole car alone, is only worth $250. [:@]I'm sick of spending every dime I get my hands on, on it. Man it gets annoying after awile.
What do you guys think I should do? Scrap it, rebuild it, or fix it at bare minimum price?
Math problem?!?!
I think I might retire the Evader.... Today, I was doing some speed runs down our dirt road. I hit the breaks to end the run, and it didn't stop very fast. So I turned it around, and hit the throttle and nothing happened. I listened closely and could here from a distance, the sound of a spur ripping. When I got close, I looked at it. I hit the throttle again and watched what happened. The pinion, spur and whole top shaft assembly spun. But there was no action coming out of the outdrives. I think I actually broke my bullet-proof transmission. [:@]Gosh, I'm sure the diff is floating in metal chips... I suspect either the idler (hopefully) or the top shaft. Man, this could be the end of the "Vadster". It needs the tranny problem fixed, a new spur, new front tires (Have the rims), new antenna straw, and a shock rebuild kit. The rear left shock cap blew off for some reason and oil went everywhere. The whole car is just a mess... I have dumped over a $1000 into it over it's lifetime, and the whole car alone, is only worth $250. [:@]I'm sick of spending every dime I get my hands on, on it. Man it gets annoying after awile.
What do you guys think I should do? Scrap it, rebuild it, or fix it at bare minimum price?
05-14-2013, 03:11 AM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
ORIGINAL: egbasher
Sure. The numbers after the decimal represent the gear ratio between the pinion and the spur. The numbers after the decimals are just the decimal equivalent of the two digit pinion/spur tooth numbers. So a 19 tooth pinion paired with an 88 tooth spur is 19/88. 19 divided by 88 equals .2159 Just citing two pairs of numbers makes it hard to tell which ratio is bigger or smaller. For example: which is a bigger ratio? 18/78 or a 21/87. Gotta do the math. 18/78 = .2308 and 21/87 = .2414, so the 21/87 is a tiny bit higher. You probably wouldn't notice much of difference in the way a car drives with that small a change (less than 5%). I usually shoot for a ratio change to about 10 -15 percent. That's enough of a change to make the car drive differrently. If you go from a 19/88 to a 22/88 that's about a 15% in gear ratio. As the decimal number (the gear ratio) gets bigger it means the motor turns slower for a given road speed. Another way to say this is, that as the ratio gets larger the car will go faster for a given engine speed. So if you increase the ratio by 20% (and your motor will spin to max rpm with both gear sets) then, theoretically, the car should be going 20% faster. The way to do this is to either increase the pinion size or decrease the spur size. Expressing the gear ratio as a decimal just makes it easier to compare ratios.
Not sure what you mean by ''higher teeth''. If you mean a higher gear ratio, which is what you want, then a higher number of teeth on the pinion gives you that but a lower number of teeth on the spur accomplishes the same thing.
Hope this makes sense.
Sure. The numbers after the decimal represent the gear ratio between the pinion and the spur. The numbers after the decimals are just the decimal equivalent of the two digit pinion/spur tooth numbers. So a 19 tooth pinion paired with an 88 tooth spur is 19/88. 19 divided by 88 equals .2159 Just citing two pairs of numbers makes it hard to tell which ratio is bigger or smaller. For example: which is a bigger ratio? 18/78 or a 21/87. Gotta do the math. 18/78 = .2308 and 21/87 = .2414, so the 21/87 is a tiny bit higher. You probably wouldn't notice much of difference in the way a car drives with that small a change (less than 5%). I usually shoot for a ratio change to about 10 -15 percent. That's enough of a change to make the car drive differrently. If you go from a 19/88 to a 22/88 that's about a 15% in gear ratio. As the decimal number (the gear ratio) gets bigger it means the motor turns slower for a given road speed. Another way to say this is, that as the ratio gets larger the car will go faster for a given engine speed. So if you increase the ratio by 20% (and your motor will spin to max rpm with both gear sets) then, theoretically, the car should be going 20% faster. The way to do this is to either increase the pinion size or decrease the spur size. Expressing the gear ratio as a decimal just makes it easier to compare ratios.
Not sure what you mean by ''higher teeth''. If you mean a higher gear ratio, which is what you want, then a higher number of teeth on the pinion gives you that but a lower number of teeth on the spur accomplishes the same thing.
Hope this makes sense.
ORIGINAL: dtxandtrx
Do you think you could give a shot at explaining the numbers with the decimals in front of them? I understand the gears and I need higher teeth. But what do the numbers represent?
ORIGINAL: egbasher
I think a 23/78 may be too high. For a reference point, Duratrax ships the brushless evader with a 24/88 set up. That's a ratio of .2727 but it's with a 3950 kV motor. You're running a bit bigger motor so you might want a slightly lower overall ratio. You are running 19/88 = .2159. That's about 20% smaller than DTX's factory setup. A 23/78 = .2949 so that's about 10% higher than the stock brushless. Going from a 19/88 to a 23/78 is a 37% jump. That's huge.
DH's suggestions give you: 25/87 = .2874 and 19/78 = .2436 I'd try a 22/88 = .2500 or 23/88 = .2614 and watch the motor temp. Another thing to think about is whether or not you can get the mesh right with small gear combos like a 19 pinion and a 78 spur. You may have to enlarge the slots in the motor plate.
I think a 23/78 may be too high. For a reference point, Duratrax ships the brushless evader with a 24/88 set up. That's a ratio of .2727 but it's with a 3950 kV motor. You're running a bit bigger motor so you might want a slightly lower overall ratio. You are running 19/88 = .2159. That's about 20% smaller than DTX's factory setup. A 23/78 = .2949 so that's about 10% higher than the stock brushless. Going from a 19/88 to a 23/78 is a 37% jump. That's huge.
DH's suggestions give you: 25/87 = .2874 and 19/78 = .2436 I'd try a 22/88 = .2500 or 23/88 = .2614 and watch the motor temp. Another thing to think about is whether or not you can get the mesh right with small gear combos like a 19 pinion and a 78 spur. You may have to enlarge the slots in the motor plate.
ORIGINAL: dtxandtrx
I think I'll just buy a couple of the brushless evader spurs, maybe a 78 tooth? I'm running a losi 4800kv brushless with a 19 pinion and the stock ext2 spur. Its way undergeared as it is now. Maybe ill jump to a 23t pinion with 78 spur. How does that sound?
I think I'll just buy a couple of the brushless evader spurs, maybe a 78 tooth? I'm running a losi 4800kv brushless with a 19 pinion and the stock ext2 spur. Its way undergeared as it is now. Maybe ill jump to a 23t pinion with 78 spur. How does that sound?
05-14-2013, 04:08 AM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
It is like a 10 speed!
I'll take it apart today and report back. Maybe your right. It would make the most sense. The pin shears off, and the diff takes the easiest side to turn, which would be the sheared side, and that's why both outdrives don't spin. I'll have to check. Because it's a diff, only one pin can shear. If that's the case, I'll get the dimensions with a pair of calipers, and go out to the shop and make one. I'll grind it to perfection! I guess I'll do two while I'm in there, and replace both....Wait,... I don't even know if that's the problem yet!...Sorry, got ahead of myself.
I'll take it apart today and report back. Maybe your right. It would make the most sense. The pin shears off, and the diff takes the easiest side to turn, which would be the sheared side, and that's why both outdrives don't spin. I'll have to check. Because it's a diff, only one pin can shear. If that's the case, I'll get the dimensions with a pair of calipers, and go out to the shop and make one. I'll grind it to perfection! I guess I'll do two while I'm in there, and replace both....Wait,... I don't even know if that's the problem yet!...Sorry, got ahead of myself.
05-14-2013, 04:29 AM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Haha yea, whenever I break one of my trucks I immedetly jump to a conclusion. "Oh it's just a simple a-arm...", then it ends up being the entire front bulkhead lol! Just take it apart, figure out the problem and then see how much it's gonna cost. If you think it's too much to fix just do what EG says, take what you can and shelf it. Maybe someday you'll fix it again.
05-14-2013, 08:40 AM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Cumquat said that, not EG.
I think it may just be the out drive pin for the bevel gear. But it also needs a front bumper $7.99, shock rebuild kit $9.99, and antenna $1.29, and a spur (got 2) $13.99. So $35 ought a fix it. But I only got $10. There's also a set of front 5" OD tires waiting for me. That's another $20. So $55, and it's great. I'm still thinking...
I think it may just be the out drive pin for the bevel gear. But it also needs a front bumper $7.99, shock rebuild kit $9.99, and antenna $1.29, and a spur (got 2) $13.99. So $35 ought a fix it. But I only got $10. There's also a set of front 5" OD tires waiting for me. That's another $20. So $55, and it's great. I'm still thinking...
ORIGINAL: dtxandtrx
Haha yea, whenever I break one of my trucks I immedetly jump to a conclusion. "Oh it's just a simple a-arm...", then it ends up being the entire front bulkhead lol! Just take it apart, figure out the problem and then see how much it's gonna cost. If you think it's too much to fix just do what EG says, take what you can and shelf it. Maybe someday you'll fix it again.
Haha yea, whenever I break one of my trucks I immedetly jump to a conclusion. "Oh it's just a simple a-arm...", then it ends up being the entire front bulkhead lol! Just take it apart, figure out the problem and then see how much it's gonna cost. If you think it's too much to fix just do what EG says, take what you can and shelf it. Maybe someday you'll fix it again.
05-14-2013, 04:49 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
DH if you're buying the stock white antenna tube don't waste your time plenty of other companies make ones that won't break the second you roll over with it...
the lug
the lug
05-14-2013, 05:48 PM
#1270
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
These specifically never failed me. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...tube&search=Go
05-17-2013, 07:28 AM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Yeah. The Outdrive pins behind the bevel gears sheared. In fact, both sheared. So I'm waiting to go to the lhs to pick up some 0.047 music wire. I'll cut it, grind it down to the exact length (Down to the thousandth of and inch) and out the whole thing back together.
I knew it wasn't the drive pin behind the slipper, because when it first broke, I was able to see through the gear cover and view that the top shaft was spinning. (The nut on the top shaft was spinning) at first I thought I stripped a gear, but it seemed like if I rolled it ahead, the gear would be turned to a different spot that had teeth. Then it would go till it returned to the stripped spot. If didn't do that. So that's when I suspected either the Outdrive pins (thanks to EG), or the gear on the top shaft came loose and the shaft was spinning inside the gear. You were right EG! Thanks.��
05-19-2013, 08:59 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Glad to help. There are so many connection points, i.e. failure points, in the drive train that it's just luck I nailed it. Even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while.
When it broke were you running on asphalt?
When it broke were you running on asphalt?