DieHarder

Is the head ruined? If it's stripped, I can't imagine there being much holding it in. You could try putting a drop of JB weld on the screw head, then insert a crap allen wrench, otherwise cumquat gave a good route. Can you turn it at all?

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

So...you're saying the motor mount screw is still holding the motor to the motor plate sort of, it just won't back out?
Can you grab the screw with pliers and unscrew and pull at the same time, get it to back out that way? Of course, the hole in the motor that screw goes into is already foinked. You'll need to rotate the motor to a new position and new screw hole, and need a new screw. Don't forget to put lock-tite on those screws this time.

RustyUs

I don't know if you worked that sucker out yet, and I 'm assuming your motor mounting screw is stripped in the hex head. If you have a Dremel Tool, cut-off wheel No. 409 will make a nice slot in the head of your motor mounting screw to get a flat head screw driver in there.

A good 2.5mm hex driver should be used on them puppies. On that same note, a good hex driver set should be on hand when working on hex head anything.

egbasher

Stripped screws. Hate 'em. I have a screw extractor like cumquat listed. Mine is too big to work on small screws but it is a different brand - I'll have to check out that one. Barring using that tool you have a couple of choices. Either drill out the head of the screw using a bit that's slightly smaller than the shaft of the screw until the head comes off and then use vise grips to unscrew what's left of the shaft (after you take off the motor) or use a Dremel tool with a cutting disc and slice a slot in the top of the screw so you can use a flat blade screw driver to remove it. Good luck.

DieHarder

Welcome back EG! How've you been doing?

egbasher

Doing good Nate. How about you? Haven't been running the Evader much. Got a used HoBao Hyper 10 SCT. It's been occupying my time trying to get it up to my specs for running. Lots of replacing/upgrading. That vehicle has had lots of weird gremlins but it's been lots of fun, too. Went back to the Evader and I realized how easy it is to drive a 4WD car. It takes a lot more talent to lap the Evader quickly. But the Evader is faster than my SCT by 6mph. The truck does 35 with a big 550 4 pole motor in in. Love the torque that thing has. The Evader does 41 with a EZRun 4300 small can motor. That little motor is impressive. Great match for the EXT.

Our race season my be cut short this year due to the drought. The track is so dry we feel a bit guilty watering it down but without water it gets so dusty it's hard to breathe at times! In the past it has stayed damp until June or so. This year March looks like July. A bit scary.

DieHarder

Doing great here. I've got a new job in addition to the work I do for my neighbors. It's at a sizable plant nursery 2 miles by roads, 1/2 mile as the crow flies from my house. I work Saturdays for decent wages, so that's a good money maker. Also got raises from the two neighbor's I work for regularly. $10/hour tax free leaves a lot for RC. I'm ordering some parts tonight to get my ST going and then saving for the Proboat Blackjack 29 V3 Catamaran, http://www.amain.com/rc-boats/pro-bo...b08011/p404910 and 6S (two 3S) worth of batteries, a nicer wp servo, and a steeper prop. Striving for 55mph on the water. 8) Can't wait!

Those HoBaos look pretty neat. It's good you're getting it dialed in, should be able to get some fast laps! I really should've gone with the Hobbywing setup like you guys, this Velenion system is ridiculous, but I'm getting pretty used to driving it.

We had a bunch of rain like two weeks ago and all was well, but then they graded the dirt road we live on and it was dry as a desert. Finally got some dust control today and it's much better. The water table here is still pretty high, mainly because we live in a valley surrounded by blueberries. Next week is supposed to be really wet with lots of rain...

DieHarder

A bunch of parts came in the mail today. Should be able to get my Evader running soon.

DieHarder

Evader runs. I tightened all the suspension components with those spacers you sent my Rusty. They work great! Thanks again! New shocks seals and 35W fluid, regreased trans, 32P 56/15 S & P, new gear cover, gearbox set, motor plate, and rear shock tower. Thing runs great, I'm gonna tighten up the gear mesh, just a tad loose for me right now. Got the right handling setup and it really takes the curves nice! Body is beat up but good for bashing. Nice to finally run the Evader again.

egbasher

Sounds like you're happy. Send some pics of it with the the new parts. How fast is it with the S/P set up you chose? You changed to 32 pitch gears? Are 32 pitch gears robust enough that you can lose the slipper assembly?

RustyUs

I just got done with 1 1/2 hours of weed/grass wackin' around the track. Fingers and hands trembling as I charge up some packs and type this post. The Evader ST has a date with a freshly groomed; rock/pebble imbedded; bumpy as all heck track.

I think DieHarder needs them 32pitch gears if he's still rockin' them Badlands on his Evader!

DieHarder, your Evader was an Evader EXT originally or a Brushless Evader? Or something else?

egbasher, your DTX Evader originally started out with which version?

cumquat

as memory serves, dieharder has an st (pro?) and eg has an ext2. once upon a time i had an ext, then 2 ext2's. now i'm working on clearing some debt and acquiring tools to build the steelvader.

egbasher

Yup, cumquat has a good memory. Both of my evaders started out as EXT2's. Both have extensive mods and are brushless.

Sounds like your RC season is starting, CQ. Excellent. Our's here in CA is unfortunately nearing the end, at least at Rob's track. In order to race we have to water down the track several times a day. We had a decent rain (for CA) last Thursday night. By 11 AM the next day the track was dry as a bone and very dusty. Little traction. Even 4WD's were sliding like crazy. If the wind isn't blowing it gets so dusty you can't breathe. The evaders are very hard to drive on that slippery a surface. One spinout and it takes so long to get back up to speed that it's hard to have good races. Lucky to get a half a lap of neck and neck battles before one of us loses it. Much easier and more fun with a 4WD car. But it does deteriorate your driving skills racing a 4WD! They're so forgiving. But on a damp track those evaders are fast and fun.

So cumquat, save me the time of going back through this thread. What's a steelvader?

cumquat

something i've been wanting to build for about 3 years now. an evader made mostly of steel. chassis, arms, towers, gearbox case, bulkheads, steering mechanism, bumpers and wheelie bar all comprised of steel. shocks will be production but no clue what they'll be scavenged off of. havent decided where i'll source the gears from, thinking rc10 innards with the gear diff but i have a couple other ideas as well. definitely going to need power. it very well could end up with a 4wd conversion running the drivetrain and motor from an 8th scale buggy. currently owe several hundred dollars and this is going to need at least $1200 in tools alone. i have 2 perspective jobs this summer and if either one pans out, it aught to be financially feasible to start in august or september. otherwise, i dont know it'll ever happen. if both pan out, it probably wont happen because i'll be able to fund my 7 dream builds.

the first is a fleet of dune buggies. 4 buggies with near-identical frames but different setups for different uses.
the second is a pan car with a gearbox made of pinion gears. designed the gearbox about 4 years ago, just never made it.
third is a multi-axle monstrosity. that'll continue to evolve as i build it.
fourth is a set of 6 fords, all built with tube frames. a mustang, an f150, an f350, a bronco, a gt and a '32 hot rod.
fifth would be a pneumatic v8 powered car. i have seen a couple model v8's run at <100psi and i know of a small air tank that can hold 3000psi. regulated, it should offer a usable runtime.
sixth, some mad max/earn to die/resident evil inspired vehicles.
last, a racing vehicle that demolishes all production race models in the class. if not figuratively, then literally.

RustyUs

^^^
I'll be watching.

DieHarder

The 32P 56/15 setup is quick. It's about equivalent to a 48P 87/23. I'm still running the VXL 3500kv motor but on 2S mostly. I really rips good with the Badlands, still on my first set of those. Might replace them around mid-summer. As for the slipper clutch, I have it tightened all the way down so it's locked up. The drivetrain has had no trouble taking it and the 32P gears are indestructible. I've wailed on them and really tried to strip them and nothing. Can't even damage them.

My Evader was originally an ST regular. Not a Pro. The front is all still ST, but the rear has a lot of EXT and Brushless parts.

Can't wait to see your steelvader production, cumquat!

Sounds like your guy's tracks are coming together for the season! I'm so jealous! Dirt roads, country lawns, and ORV trails are my proving grounds...

RustyUs

Ok, let see how good you guys are with math.

Birthday party + playground/ball-field + nieces/nephews + WOT trigger fingers + Evader ST + drainage grate = ?

RustyUs

I charged up a dozen packs and took my old faithfuls, Evader ST and B4, to a birthday party at a playground/park. With my cousins/nephews/brother-in-law taking turns piloting the RCs in and around light poles; barriers; play ground equipment, and people. The whole time I was cringing while laughing so hard. The younger kids only knew to squeeze the trigger as hard as they could. I had to put the throttle EPA @ 20% for the little ones to handle the motor as they had no trigger control what so ever.

At the end of the second battery pack a drainage grate, that was sunk below ground level, and was used as a launching ramp to get some airtime. Well, the grate eventually grabbed one of the rear arms and snapped a ballcup end; thus causing one of the dogbone's centering springs to fly into never never land.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Birthday party + playground/ball-field + nieces/nephews + WOT trigger fingers + Evader ST + drainage grate = D'OH!!!

RustyUs

^^^ exactly put EXT2Rob

At the moment, I'm testing the seals on the diff with 30,000 diff fluid. While taking the tranny apart I'm noticing some slop in the gearbox. I guessing I can move the diff about .8mm (almost a full mm ) from side to side while grabbing the outdrives. I should probably break out a new gearbox and see if that helps at all.

If someone out there has some time while wrenching on your toys, I'm curious to know if any of you have any side to side play in your diffs.

DieHarder

I didn't have any play in mine before replacing the gearbox a few weeks ago. I put a new one in because most of the screw holes in it were stripped to bad. I have a hard time giving up my radio to friends. Too stressful for me. lol

RustyUs

Yeah, I've been battling with one stripped hole on the bottom of the gearbox for a year now. Every time I have the tranny apart, I whip out the thread lock and hope for the best, and not have the screw come out from below.

I'm always handing over the controls to my Evader and B4 to anyone stopping by the house or when at an outdoor family get together. I figure, their are the oldest RCs that I have and crap loads of parts. The new ride won't be controlled by anyone but my oldest daughter and me.

I sit here in the garage trying to see if the old diff seals are holding the fluid in. I don't see any drips on the stand, but I guess the real test will be when power is applied.

RustyUs

Diff output joints has some dirt collecting around the bearings and I am assuming the diff fluid is leaking out at a slow pace after a couple of runs. Will know for sure after a few more runs if the old diff seals are in need of replacement.

I'm lazy, well the computer in garage is just ancient/super slow, to check ...would auto gasket material work at making new seals for the diff? I think it would work good/great; using a xacto knife to cut out the new seal... I don't know off hand how much it cost for such material, as I don't want to dig into my stash of Evader parts just for the sake of getting out new gaskets for the diff when the diff gear I have now is perfectly good.

I'll check later when I get upstairs on laptop.

RustyUs

Well Auto Zone has four types of material sheets for gaskets that I found so far...
1/16" thick Cork-Rubber = Oil, Coolant, Gasoline
1/32" thick Karropak (?) = Oil, Coolant, Gasoline
3/64" thick Rubber-Cellulose = Water, Coolant
1/32" thick Rubber-Fiber = Oil, Coolant, Gasoline

All about 5.99 for 10"x26" piece of material

My best guess as to which material to use in making some gaskets would be the Karropak or the Rubber-Fiber (both used for oil locations) since they are about the same thickness as the Duratrax gaskets on the brushless diff. Maybe I won't need to make any...I'm just preparing myself for what's to come after opening the tranny .

DieHarder

I agree with you. The rubber 1/16" would be too thick for sure.