-JBLKING-

Ever since I saw videos of these trucks running around the desert, Ive wanted to recreate something like it of my own. I also got some ideas from Pro Line's own PreRunner build. Love it or Hate it, heres my personal PreRunner.
Comments and critiscm welcome!

The Look
I began with a Traxxas Raptor for the simple and non-competition look, followed by plenty of sponsor stickers. The body looks great and the stickers give some great detail and contrast. I always wanted lights as well so I ordered RPM front and rear light canisters as well as an RPM roof light mount. RPM is great quality but their parts are made to work with their own. That did not stop me. I liked the style of the stock front and rear bumpers more than RPM's so I drilled a hole in the front bumper to mount the lights with a hex screw and some washers. The body fits cleanly with the mod. In the rear, I simply unscrewed the rear bumper and placed the rear light canisters between the bumper and the brace so that it all fits with the screw. Just dont over tighten. I did not like putting the light rack right over the windshielf because the surface was a bit too concave so I fixed it to the back, right above the roll cage mounts. I also put a few plastic bars over the roof window to help protect from roll overs. The bed was covered with a large carbon fiber sticker and finished with a small lip bar. Initially, I wanted to have a sort of bed roll bar but there is no such part available. I improvised and took a Losi DT roll cage and dremeled it to fit snug to the body. I drilled holes in the top to fasten it with screws and washers and the bottom is fastened each time with Pro Line's screw caps with the Slash extended body mounts. The improvised Losi roll cage also allows me to mount a spare tire! I did not like how low the Slash bodies sit on the chassis so I got some Pro Line extended body mounts to raise the body and match nicely withe the roll cage fastening. That is all I have done for the body look so far. The chassis comes next
http://s690.photobucket.com/user/JBL...ibrary/?page=1

geo950

Looks great! Fantastic build. How hard was it to hook up lights? I've been thinking about installing some

-JBLKING-

I ordered Ram-Tech lights made especially for RPM light canisters. Rob at Ram-Tech is great and very helpful, good company out west. The lights fit snugly during assembly with the canisters but I do advise some hot glue around the fit to protect your lights from snapping from use. It is quite easy to hook up the lights as long as you have open channels. I used splitters to hook them up and there is enough wiring available. I got the splitters made from Bill"s Custom RC Lighting, also a great company.

-JBLKING-

Does anybody recommend any wheels and tires for this look? I like Duratrax's SC series of mounted tires and wheels but they seem to wear out quite quickly.

-JBLKING-

I striked an amazing deal this past weekend. An older hobbyist was moving on from the hobby and had posted up an ad. I had been hunting for a VXL and sure enough, the ad promoted an older rustler with a VXL. I inquired about the price an ended up taking home a heavily modified TT01E, the VXL rustler, and TONS of spare parts/lipo/charger/wheels/esc/motor...all for less than MSRP for a VXL setup.
I'll turn the TT01E into a project
After the parts swap, my slash acquired an Integy gear box, Integy Spur, Spec pinion, a 3s 11.1v 5000mah lipo, and ofcourse, the VXL system.
Tomorrow I will see if the thing wheelies (it did in the rustler but the rustler was also half the weight of my slash)

I wonder where I can get a battery strap big enough for my newly acquired huge lipo....

-JBLKING-

More Pictures uploaded!

I installed an Integy Servo Guard awhile back. It does not come with hardware and requires some dremeling for the servo arm to clear the guard properly. Its light weight but pretty bendable, quality expected from Integy but it should do its job to prevent scrapes and damage to the servo.
I also made rear wheel tire chains, an idea helped along by djmedic. They sure sling dirt and when fitted properly improve offroad tractionin snow a bit. Looks pretty cool tho. All I did was get less than $10 worth of chain from any hardware store and link them together according to the wheel and tire dimensions.

-JBLKING-

Just installed a Pro Line Chassis Saver. It comes with all the hardware but no instructions. It is simple enough to figure out anyways. I only had to drill 2 holes and enlarge the already existing ones to mount the plate. Sorry no pictures for this one.

trx1

My Feedback: (2)

Heres my slash. built it from chassis up. enjoyed this build!


right now its setup on:
6 cell,
27mhz rec
older traxxas servo,
stinger motor.
put RPM all over it for durability.

redfisher1974

The led's look nice, Reminds me that i have a roof rack with led's on the way for my CC-01...

-JBLKING-

Welcome to the Raptor family haha

My VXL has the annoying early lipo cutoff problem where it cuts off almost instantaneosly so I turned it off. Im going to have to watch my lipo tho.

I REALLY need some better tires for dirt and gravel. The brushless just doesnt hook up unless I really ease into the throttle and it spins out easily. Today it wheelied like CRAZY on the pavement- which it hasnt done before....and I havent changed anything....strange.... now I just need a wheelie bar that I can use with the stock bumper. Swami's are really expensive!

Im thinking of making some sort of brace for the light rack So it will survive rollovers a bit better.
My right rear hub carrier cracked the other day on a front collision ?strange? so I moved the pins to the upper hole- maybe that is what is making it wheelie? Aluminum carriers and steel outdrives are on the list.
Also need a PureTech battery velcro hold down for the big brick 3s.

-JBLKING-

I like this one a lot. This is what inspired me. I just need to learn how to use plastruct.

http://www.prolineracing.com/blog/tr...pcoming-items/

-JBLKING-

I want to make a rollcage for the prerunner to guard the light bar and bed. I see many people use styrene sheets but im looking for rods. How easy are they to mold? I found some acryllic 1/4" ones. What paint should I use? Do I need cement too? Any particular way to mount them? Ive never used plastruct before so any help is appreciated.

prestonlal

Hey there JBLKING ! Have you done anything about making the roll cage? I'm thinking that styrene as well as most plastics will not last if your truck rolls over! How heavy is it?
If you have welding skills or know someone who can weld, steel rods welded or brass rods brazed together would be ideal ! I did a quick search for roll cages for the slash but could only find inner cages that are ready made.

-JBLKING-

The simple roll brace I have fabricated from a Losi DT roll cage allows me to mount a tire w/ rim and provides good body support so that it does not bend in the middle in crashes- however, the roof rack, bed end, roof are still vulnerable.
I looked for roll cages as well- they are expensive too! I was initially thinking to fabricate a roll cage like ProLine did with their Slash PreRunner build, except to connect on the body from the end of the bed to the front of my light rack in a full cage frame. I intend to make this low profile but effective when I experience roll overs. The RPM light rack is effective in protecting itself but I would still like the extra protection. ProLine used 1/2" plastruct rods but did not specify of what material.
Later, I may make some sort of chassis roll brace for inside the body. I want to use a very strong plastic and not metal to reduce the weight- and would be easier to work with. Not exactly sure how much the slash weighs now, but its heavier than most buggys/other off road considering my aluminum gear case and the brick lipo I have. Its a fairly large truck and I would just like to make the body more firm.

phmaximus

speaking of roll cages..... here is the one I use to have.....I even tucked in a 1/10 scale V8

-JBLKING-

looks pretty clean, liked how you opened the windshield and windows! Is that a premade rollcage with panels? I was thinking about buying a metal one and cutting the bed to make it fit but I really do not want to do that. I would rather keep the bed and rear cab window. My own makeshift roll brace is also mounted there. I just want to make something that will protect the light bar. Phax, the light bar for you would just callapse when rolled correct? I want to make a cage on the bed that extends to mount in front of the light bar so that the lights wont even collapse when the force rolls on it. I might need to draw a picture for what I mean.

phmaximus

cheerz m8, I would advise adainst cutting the windows out, the body dident last long after that lol.
That was a integy rollcage I hand made the panels to help keep rocks out... it really messed with the trucks handling....badly
yep it did, each crash or rollover the light bar would fold down. ive now got it fitted to a SCX10 and ive angles the mounts so they taper in at the rear. this has stoped it from leaning back, its kinda like spring loaded. well in a way

Currently I dont have a body for my slash Im using a old one from a MT2. but ive got plans to get that body u are using, with that kind of style....

Ive had one idea that might work. modify the rear roll bars from a SCX10.... they are narrower than a SCT but still wouldent be that hard to widen

Because the tray is not as deep on the proline body the cage might come up over the roof, then u will need to extend it to the light bar?

-JBLKING-

Oh, I dont plan to cut the windows but your slash did look neat with the bars visible. I might need to do a lightweight cage with panels to keep out depris as well- or just get a JConcepts overtray, but id prefer to make my own to fit wiring and cooling.

Yea! the raptor bodies are very nice, thats why I got the brushed raptor to start with and began this build.

Using the SCX10 Honcho roll cage is a great idea! I just need to see if they will fit to clear the tire if I mount one. Too bad the cage is a pricey $30 including the bed- thats why I was looking to make my own from plastruct. I'll have to take a closer look at the dimensions and see how I can extend it. Hmmm, if only I can get my hands on one...seems like a good excuse to by a Honcho now hahaha- ive always wanted one but I dont want to dump the money for the model at the moment. OR maybe the SCX10 Wrangler cage? That cage seams a bit longer but is probably shorter. Wish I could get my hands on them to see the dimensions...

-JBLKING-

hmmm...what other trucks have roll cages that I may rob from?

phmaximus

here is an idea.... [link=http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?8973006-quot-Clash-1-quot]here[/link]

hows this for a slash

-JBLKING-

Wow! The SC8 rollcage is full body for just $40. I could do a buggy project with this! Thanks for the link up.

-JBLKING-

The Honcho cage dimensions are
Length 6.6" (17cm)
Width 7.1" (18cm)
Height 4.3" (11cm)

the cage comes in one package ($30) including a bed. The entire Honcho factory body is $40. I just wonder whether I can slip a SC wheel and tire underneath the width brace- it doesnt look possible.

I found that the Jeep Wrangler cage is
Length:11" (279mm)
Height:2.9" (75mm)
(Sides)
and the cage comes in two packages ($20 per package) but I'll just need the sides and some how make a brace inbetween. The second package with the top of the roll cage doesnt really help me because I aim to mount a wheel and tire on the losi brace and do not want bars all across.

I then measured my bed dimensions and I'll need 10"x5"x4" to work comfortably. So the height of the Wrangler cage comes up a bit short. I will still be able to make a bed cage out of it but It wont be tall enough to extend to the light rack.
The Honcho cage on the other hand, will not extend the entire length of the chassis, but will be tall enough but maybe a little too wide. This cage will be possible to extend to the light rack and mount to the rack on the top sides with a drilled hole and screw if only it wasnt so wide. (5" light bar, 6" roof)...gonna have to think on this one...

-JBLKING-

I'll probably hold off on anything too extravagant for extending a bed roll cage- id rather build it than buy an expensive set (yes $20 is expensive for my application) then mod it. I'll prob find some nylon rods and fabricate some bars. Not quite sure how to mount to the body yet, thinking of drilling a hole straight into the rod ends and mount into the body with washer and screws.

I dont want a wheelie bar to ruin the look (the slash only wheelies on pavement anyways) so I'll just reinforce the rear bumper mount with an rpm mount and try not to scrape too much. I wont make a metal skid plate for the back because its heavy enough already but I'll try to do it for the front skid/bumper to give it a little more realism. Dont know whether to spray the front and rear bumpers silver/gray to match the roll brace or with black bed liner. I'll definitely remove the black sticker on the bed and apply bed liner.

Plan to widen the wheel base with a simple jang mod, stiffen the front and see if the jato drive shafts will fit with steel outdrives.

Also will make some guards/wheel wells for the front for realism and keep the dirt out, just need to determine what kind of material I can shape.

My goal is to make this extremely beach versatile by mid-June. Anybody recommend a certain brand of sand paddles?

Look at those chains!

-JBLKING-

Here is the proline chassis saver. It bolts to the bottom of the shock tower ears and the chassis. Just drill two holes for the chassis and enlarge the ones for the shock tower.This part can protect the chassis ears from breaking but not so much the tower ears. A nice and sturdy rear skid plate is the crucial reinforment for keeping the chassis together.

-JBLKING-

I bought a can of Rusteoleum bed liner and replaced the sticker in the bed. It looks nice and has a good texture. Just be sure to apply even coats. I also did the same for the edges of the wheel wells that scratched off and did a thin coat on the inside of the body to prevent some paint from rubbing off underneath. Also did a few coats on the front and rear bumpers and the RPM light bar. The bed liner does a great job (please pardon the pictures) of covering up scratches and giving a more realistic look vs the stock plastic look. I bolted a second tire and wheel to the bed with a screw and plastic retainer underneath and bordered it off with a bar from the Losi DT rollcage set. As you have probably already guessed, The rear is getting very heavy with the aluminum case and tires. That and it flips over a bit easier. The chassis bottoms out easily even when I drop it from waist height.

I am unfamiliar with any wide selection of shocks and springs and oil as this is my first RC- Can anyone recommend me some shocks?-Maybe long travel? The best springs?-Losi? The ideal oil weight?- what weight for what results?

I also reinforced the rear with an RPM bumper mount and motor guard. I am very impressed with the motor guard strength and is much better than the stock mount. The stock one would slip out from the rear skid whenever I would hit something.

Does anyone also recommend any cheap LVC or alarms? I need one!

I am ditching the Jang mod for a much simpler solution for wide track- updates to come!