Project Slash
#1
Thread Starter
Project Slash
I've owned my slash for some time now, and it's starting to show its age. I have decided to give it a complete make over top to bottom, talking about some of the upgrades and modifications. My goal is to see what type of preformance I can get out of it, and to share my experances with other hobbyists.
#2
Thread Starter
RE: Project Slash
I'm starting off with my old slash, I've striped it down and im selling the chassis, proline chassis saver, RPM rear skid plate, front skid plate, RPM nurfbars bars and stock bellcrank to a friend
I've given the remainder parts a clean using soapy water and scribing brush (including gears). Then gave the electronics and wires a good clean with window cleaner. I thoroughly dried everything with paper towl and a heat lamp.
Everything apart from the tyres is now clean, time to protect and dye some bits
I've heated up 1/3 of a packet of rite dye black on the stove just hot enough that it's not simmering. I've then cooked the front bulkhead and the gearbox housing for about 60min intill a dark black. Removed items and let them to cool befor ringing them off in water.
All my parts are now black yay
Now they are dry it's time to protect the plastic, I've used a spray silicon garage door lube to coat everything...
Now I'm doing the fun 20h waiting for it all to dry.
Waiting for that I've cleaned all the wheel and gearbox bearings using a RPM bearing blaster and I'm using a silicone spray to lube them.
God damm they are fast... I've used a very light smere of Grim Reaper Speed Grease (waterproof) on the gears and diff.
And now it's one very smoothe gearbox. It's cool I can spin it up by hand and it keeps on going for a few seconds.
I've refitted the motor and I've got the mesh set to a smaller gap,(very slight backlash) and doubble checked that the mesh was consistant around the spur gear. All sweet
I will re visit the diff later on in the build.
I've given the remainder parts a clean using soapy water and scribing brush (including gears). Then gave the electronics and wires a good clean with window cleaner. I thoroughly dried everything with paper towl and a heat lamp.
Everything apart from the tyres is now clean, time to protect and dye some bits
I've heated up 1/3 of a packet of rite dye black on the stove just hot enough that it's not simmering. I've then cooked the front bulkhead and the gearbox housing for about 60min intill a dark black. Removed items and let them to cool befor ringing them off in water.
All my parts are now black yay
Now they are dry it's time to protect the plastic, I've used a spray silicon garage door lube to coat everything...
Now I'm doing the fun 20h waiting for it all to dry.
Waiting for that I've cleaned all the wheel and gearbox bearings using a RPM bearing blaster and I'm using a silicone spray to lube them.
God damm they are fast... I've used a very light smere of Grim Reaper Speed Grease (waterproof) on the gears and diff.
And now it's one very smoothe gearbox. It's cool I can spin it up by hand and it keeps on going for a few seconds.
I've refitted the motor and I've got the mesh set to a smaller gap,(very slight backlash) and doubble checked that the mesh was consistant around the spur gear. All sweet
I will re visit the diff later on in the build.
#3
Thread Starter
RE: Project Slash
Time to assemble what I've got and what I'm using for this build.
I'm starting with the front bulkhead,
I found that the stock shock tower flexes under normal conditions, so I've solved most of that problem with a RPM Front shock tower and strengthened the suspension with RPM arms, RPM castor blocks and RPM bearing carriers.
Ive had the stock bearing carrier pins bend before, so I've drilled out the castor blocks and bearing carriers to suit a shortened Nitro rustler pin. These pins are 1mm bigger than stock so should be stronger...[X(]
To attach the arms I've used a STRC suspension pin set. It's solved the binding issues with the stock pins
To finish the look I've fitter a RPM Slash Bumper And light pod.
I've cut Off the top part of the bumper bar for a different look.
I'm starting with the front bulkhead,
I found that the stock shock tower flexes under normal conditions, so I've solved most of that problem with a RPM Front shock tower and strengthened the suspension with RPM arms, RPM castor blocks and RPM bearing carriers.
Ive had the stock bearing carrier pins bend before, so I've drilled out the castor blocks and bearing carriers to suit a shortened Nitro rustler pin. These pins are 1mm bigger than stock so should be stronger...[X(]
To attach the arms I've used a STRC suspension pin set. It's solved the binding issues with the stock pins
To finish the look I've fitter a RPM Slash Bumper And light pod.
I've cut Off the top part of the bumper bar for a different look.
#4
RE: Project Slash
wow you used rit dye in the house that stuff from what I remember stinks and is a mess.
But traxxas plastic I remember does absorb the stuff fast as hell. I remember trying to dye HPI wing, and ofna rims with a traxxas chassis. The chassis was pitch black in like 2 minutes where the HPI, and ofna stuff I left in for 30+ minutes (like 2 inches of water boiled out in the mean time) and they still looked dark purple only.
But traxxas plastic I remember does absorb the stuff fast as hell. I remember trying to dye HPI wing, and ofna rims with a traxxas chassis. The chassis was pitch black in like 2 minutes where the HPI, and ofna stuff I left in for 30+ minutes (like 2 inches of water boiled out in the mean time) and they still looked dark purple only.
#5
Thread Starter
RE: Project Slash
Lol, I did wait till everyone was sleeping
I can't say I noticed and strange Odours.... It all went rather smoothly.
No kidding about the traxxas parts they sock it right up, I problary could of just done it for 20min.
I can't say I noticed and strange Odours.... It all went rather smoothly.
No kidding about the traxxas parts they sock it right up, I problary could of just done it for 20min.
#6
Thread Starter
RE: Project Slash
Ok time for the gearbox, I've got some big plans for the diff, and I've got to order some goodies for it. So I'm going to assembly everything anyway.
Im using the stock shock tower for now and plan to upgrade it down the track.
But in the mean time, I've fitted some rear RPM arms and bearing carriers and they are held in buy the STRC pins. That has really made the back end more durable and the suspension moves more freely with the STRC pins.
I've fitted the traxxas telemerty sensor to the newer style gear cover and the magnat to the spur gear and finished off the whole look with a RPM Rear bumper mount, RPM rear bumper, RPM mud flaps and RPM rear light set. Now I do t have to worry about the rear bumper assembly folding down from a hard hit.
I've modified a heat sink and fan to fit my motor, I've used some thermal past and a cable tie to secure it.
Im using the stock shock tower for now and plan to upgrade it down the track.
But in the mean time, I've fitted some rear RPM arms and bearing carriers and they are held in buy the STRC pins. That has really made the back end more durable and the suspension moves more freely with the STRC pins.
I've fitted the traxxas telemerty sensor to the newer style gear cover and the magnat to the spur gear and finished off the whole look with a RPM Rear bumper mount, RPM rear bumper, RPM mud flaps and RPM rear light set. Now I do t have to worry about the rear bumper assembly folding down from a hard hit.
I've modified a heat sink and fan to fit my motor, I've used some thermal past and a cable tie to secure it.
#7
Thread Starter
RE: Project Slash
Now for the shocks, u might have noticed they are allready mounted. They are From a Losi xxx-nt and need a rebuild.
To get them to fit the slash, I've used RPM Slash shock shaft gaurds because they come with the correct ballends, the Losi ones are to big. I've got some new TiN coated shafts and seals on order, so they should be here soon.... And I've ordered a Rustler chassis..... Hummmm interesting u say
To get them to fit the slash, I've used RPM Slash shock shaft gaurds because they come with the correct ballends, the Losi ones are to big. I've got some new TiN coated shafts and seals on order, so they should be here soon.... And I've ordered a Rustler chassis..... Hummmm interesting u say
#8
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RE: Project Slash
While you were buying rpm parts for the rear, why didn't you get the sealed gear cover?
How many runs in did you realize you needed steel drive yokes?
How many runs in did you realize you needed steel drive yokes?
#10
Thread Starter
RE: Project Slash
lol... got to love silicon lol, nice and shiny
Ive got the RPM sealed gearcover, but I fitted the new traxxas one because its running telemetry and its the only one so far than holds the RPM/SPEED sensor.... wonder if RPM will make one?
I know what ya mean about the stock drive cups, they suck big time. This is its second set of metal ones... and im yet to replace the rear axles soon, the stock ones dont slide in or out that smoothly thesedays
Ive got the RPM sealed gearcover, but I fitted the new traxxas one because its running telemetry and its the only one so far than holds the RPM/SPEED sensor.... wonder if RPM will make one?
I know what ya mean about the stock drive cups, they suck big time. This is its second set of metal ones... and im yet to replace the rear axles soon, the stock ones dont slide in or out that smoothly thesedays
#12
Thread Starter
RE: Project Slash
To be honest I dont know..... there are to many to pic from these days, there are the stock ones, Jato ones, slash 4x4 ones and even the X0-1 ones.... oh and MIP and STRC universials.
Over all im happy with how the stock ones have lasted and like the telescopic shafts... and cost is a factor...
so far its looking that the stock shafts are good for nearly 1.5 years, and are 1/6 of the price of a MIP set (im only running 2s)
so the big question will the MIP shafts last longer than 6 sets of the stock ones... about 9 years?
Over all im happy with how the stock ones have lasted and like the telescopic shafts... and cost is a factor...
so far its looking that the stock shafts are good for nearly 1.5 years, and are 1/6 of the price of a MIP set (im only running 2s)
so the big question will the MIP shafts last longer than 6 sets of the stock ones... about 9 years?
#13
Thread Starter
RE: Project Slash
just costing up some X-01 shafts..... Im impressed in them, they look really good and each part of the shaft is replaceable and cheap
#14
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RE: Project Slash
Why I asked sort of in the same boat, like the telescopic shafts only ever had to replace one from a bit of grass being wrapped around it and cutting a groove in the shaft , already twisted both the drive universals on the new Rustler actually running the original white cups from the old rustler, these are the ones that had two grub screws, not the grub screw /pin style they have now and there holding up much better then the black plastic ones do.
#16
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RE: Project Slash
No, but will be as of Tuesday.Got an order to pick up, 4628x yokes, 6853x HD Stub axles and 3652A Carriers and a few other bits. I was tempted to order the 1953 Half shaft pro pack (six spline) but decided against it as I have never had trouble with the four spline ones plus not 100% sure they fit..
#17
Thread Starter
RE: Project Slash
Heads up i think " 6853x HD Stub axles" only work with the HD halfshafts and the HD yokes.... As far as I know they are the larger slash 4x4 style ones... that are fitted from the factory with the newer slash's
to get them complete its 6852X
to get them complete its 6852X
#18
Thread Starter
RE: Project Slash
This week I've ordered a temp/voltage sensor, and with any luck the postman will give me my new rear TiN shock shafts and seals this week. And the chassis is due next week.
Beare with my guys, I'm doing this slowly, I'm ordering about 1 upgrade/part a week.
It's hard been in Australia, everything I get is from the Internet, the majority of parts come from the USA and China, no kidding, including postage its is heapse cheaper than our hobby shops... Worst thing is I have to wait 2-3 weeks for postage.
There is one good thing the Aussie dollar is still strong so it makes it a little cheaper compared o a few years ago.
Hey just wondering, does the average cost of Rc parts on eBay.com reflect the cost of parts in a American hobby shop? Or do they have a slight markup?
Beare with my guys, I'm doing this slowly, I'm ordering about 1 upgrade/part a week.
It's hard been in Australia, everything I get is from the Internet, the majority of parts come from the USA and China, no kidding, including postage its is heapse cheaper than our hobby shops... Worst thing is I have to wait 2-3 weeks for postage.
There is one good thing the Aussie dollar is still strong so it makes it a little cheaper compared o a few years ago.
Hey just wondering, does the average cost of Rc parts on eBay.com reflect the cost of parts in a American hobby shop? Or do they have a slight markup?
#19
RE: Project Slash
ORIGINAL: phmaximus
This week I've ordered a temp/voltage sensor, and with any luck the postman will give me my new rear TiN shock shafts and seals this week. And the chassis is due next week.
Beare with my guys, I'm doing this slowly, I'm ordering about 1 upgrade/part a week.
It's hard been in Australia, everything I get is from the Internet, the majority of parts come from the USA and China, no kidding, including postage its is heapse cheaper than our hobby shops... Worst thing is I have to wait 2-3 weeks for postage.
There is one good thing the Aussie dollar is still strong so it makes it a little cheaper compared o a few years ago.
Hey just wondering, does the average cost of Rc parts on eBay.com reflect the cost of parts in a American hobby shop? Or do they have a slight markup?
This week I've ordered a temp/voltage sensor, and with any luck the postman will give me my new rear TiN shock shafts and seals this week. And the chassis is due next week.
Beare with my guys, I'm doing this slowly, I'm ordering about 1 upgrade/part a week.
It's hard been in Australia, everything I get is from the Internet, the majority of parts come from the USA and China, no kidding, including postage its is heapse cheaper than our hobby shops... Worst thing is I have to wait 2-3 weeks for postage.
There is one good thing the Aussie dollar is still strong so it makes it a little cheaper compared o a few years ago.
Hey just wondering, does the average cost of Rc parts on eBay.com reflect the cost of parts in a American hobby shop? Or do they have a slight markup?
#21
RE: Project Slash
ORIGINAL: phmaximus
wow.... i feel riped off lol. im paying a good $7 on most items for postage... and around $30 for a body.... no fair... lol
wow.... i feel riped off lol. im paying a good $7 on most items for postage... and around $30 for a body.... no fair... lol
don't generally buy thouse online unless I have to as I kinda like measuring em up on my truck before purchase
#22
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RE: Project Slash
You were right about the stub axles, 6853x is listed as replacment part in the parts list, fits well just has a larger universal pin lot of slop if used with the stock axles.. Thanks for the heads up on that one.
As for prices bodies up here in QLD start around $35 -$50 for a clear Traxxas or $50 plus for a Proline at the LHS.
#23
Thread Starter
RE: Project Slash
its a bit confusing ATM.... the new slash is using the 4x4 drive shafts so there is 2 part listings...
they need to start explaining this in there parts description.... silly traxxas
they need to start explaining this in there parts description.... silly traxxas
#24
Thread Starter
RE: Project Slash
well here is a bit of a update... The rear shocks are all done
Here is what the post man handed me today
Ive started with cleaning the shocks before taking them apart. (losi XXX shocks)
Ive dissembled the shocks, and cleaned the parts im reusing
Next we apply grease to the shock o rings to prevent swelling and keep then nice and smooth
assemble the schock cartridges and fit them to the shock shafts, im using the Losi TiN coated shafts
next ive fitted the top c clip, and slightly thinned out the RPM duel stage shock pistons for a nice fit and free flowing actuation, and then fitted the bottom c clip and RPM slash ball ends for the RPM stone shields/spring retainer.
Time for filling up the shocks and bleeding them, Ive gone with a Losi 35wt oil. Ive made some holes in a old box to hold the shocks while they bleed for 10min
Now all the air bubbles are gone, So ive tightened of the cartridge, then backed it off slightly. then we push the shaft down all the way and tighten the cartridge up.... all sweet...
now to check everything ive mounted the shocks on a Losi shock tester and the in & out dampening are both even with or without the springs. job well done.
Here is what the post man handed me today
Ive started with cleaning the shocks before taking them apart. (losi XXX shocks)
Ive dissembled the shocks, and cleaned the parts im reusing
Next we apply grease to the shock o rings to prevent swelling and keep then nice and smooth
assemble the schock cartridges and fit them to the shock shafts, im using the Losi TiN coated shafts
next ive fitted the top c clip, and slightly thinned out the RPM duel stage shock pistons for a nice fit and free flowing actuation, and then fitted the bottom c clip and RPM slash ball ends for the RPM stone shields/spring retainer.
Time for filling up the shocks and bleeding them, Ive gone with a Losi 35wt oil. Ive made some holes in a old box to hold the shocks while they bleed for 10min
Now all the air bubbles are gone, So ive tightened of the cartridge, then backed it off slightly. then we push the shaft down all the way and tighten the cartridge up.... all sweet...
now to check everything ive mounted the shocks on a Losi shock tester and the in & out dampening are both even with or without the springs. job well done.
#25
Thread Starter
RE: Project Slash
slight update....Ive been very busy doing other things lately but I haven't forgot about Project Slash, here is a sneak peak of what ive been doing.