Poll for my first BL RTR MT
10-26-2014, 05:08 PM
#51
Dual Charger
My first choice for a dual charger.... Thunder T8 200W Duo Charger $87 and will charge 2 batteries at once.
But you would need a power supply for it.
It will be cheaper sometimes to buy two single ac/dc chargers.
And if you don't have a seperate power supply...
iMax 2B6AC Dual Port Charger AC/DC
Just a thought if you are on a tight budget.
But you would need a power supply for it.
It will be cheaper sometimes to buy two single ac/dc chargers.
And if you don't have a seperate power supply...
iMax 2B6AC Dual Port Charger AC/DC
Just a thought if you are on a tight budget.
Last edited by RustyUs; 10-26-2014 at 06:01 PM.
10-29-2014, 05:58 PM
#52
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Sho Ham , NY
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sorry I didn't back to you sooner.
Chargers...I've seen sooo many brands using the same iMax B6AC 80 watt 10 amp platform. Whether on eBay or hobby stores on the web... I'm gonna put up pictures here and I am willing to bet all of the chargers are using the same PC boards; they have 99% the same specs just different shells, and or buttons. I have three of them (one for a spare, but haven't had to use it yet) and they all have the same way of adjusting the settings (program flow chart). I know two of the chargers shown have the same PC 'cause I opened up two of them to repair/solder one charger(my mistake of inserting a balancing cord backwards thus melted a circuit on the circuit board). You can go on eBay and type in AC680 or B6AC 80watt ...pay anything from $34 ~ $93 or go hobby site and pay somewhere in the middle for the same thing.
I'll probably get flack for saying all this and is only my opinion from past usage of the chargers and searching for the best deals.
Chargers...I've seen sooo many brands using the same iMax B6AC 80 watt 10 amp platform. Whether on eBay or hobby stores on the web... I'm gonna put up pictures here and I am willing to bet all of the chargers are using the same PC boards; they have 99% the same specs just different shells, and or buttons. I have three of them (one for a spare, but haven't had to use it yet) and they all have the same way of adjusting the settings (program flow chart). I know two of the chargers shown have the same PC 'cause I opened up two of them to repair/solder one charger(my mistake of inserting a balancing cord backwards thus melted a circuit on the circuit board). You can go on eBay and type in AC680 or B6AC 80watt ...pay anything from $34 ~ $93 or go hobby site and pay somewhere in the middle for the same thing.
I'll probably get flack for saying all this and is only my opinion from past usage of the chargers and searching for the best deals.
Now on to my question... Are any of the charger above quality that will last or cheap and unreliable or Cheap and reliable? I just got my sons truck today and found out that the charger that comes with the Traxxas takes 8 hours per charger, which is ridiculous. I need a charger and some batts asap. haha
10-29-2014, 07:45 PM
#54
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Sho Ham , NY
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I notice the one you posted was the same but B6AC, Is it the same?
Last edited by Speed917; 10-29-2014 at 07:48 PM.
10-30-2014, 02:39 AM
#56
Im wondering about a IMAX B6 Charger 446 sold http://www.ebay.com/itm/Imax-B6-Lipo...item3f1b9c0443
I notice the one you posted was the same but B6AC, Is it the same?
I notice the one you posted was the same but B6AC, Is it the same?
SkyRC is the company that came out with iMaxB6. It's been copied by counterfeiters and also re-branded countless times. I tried to explain this in the earlier post.
Same chargers...just different brand with different cosmetics.
Last edited by RustyUs; 10-30-2014 at 03:17 AM.
10-30-2014, 03:50 AM
#58
Im wondering about a IMAX B6 Charger 446 sold http://www.ebay.com/itm/Imax-B6-Lipo...item3f1b9c0443
I notice the one you posted was the same but B6AC, Is it the same?
I notice the one you posted was the same but B6AC, Is it the same?
Sorry for getting off topic for choosing a MT.
Last edited by RustyUs; 10-30-2014 at 04:00 AM.
10-30-2014, 07:13 AM
#59
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Sho Ham , NY
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Speed917, your link is the B6 that includes that "black box" (ac adapter) with the charger. The B6AC , which is larger in size, has the AC adapter built into the shell/body of the charger like the ones I posted earlier.
SkyRC is the company that came out with iMaxB6. It's been copied by counterfeiters and also re-branded countless times. I tried to explain this in the earlier post.
Same chargers...just different brand with different cosmetics.
SkyRC is the company that came out with iMaxB6. It's been copied by counterfeiters and also re-branded countless times. I tried to explain this in the earlier post.
Same chargers...just different brand with different cosmetics.
Also what are those bag and where can i purchase them?
10-30-2014, 07:17 AM
#60
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Sho Ham , NY
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Off topic completely but after opening the Slash i have noticed that the rear shock is broken and that also the rear axle on same side is missing. Can you guy send me what i should upgrade them with bc im getting refunded the parts and im just going to upgrade.
Thanks again
And a big Thank You to everyone helping me out.
Thanks again
And a big Thank You to everyone helping me out.
10-30-2014, 01:48 PM
#61
Those are LiPo Sacks or LiPo Safe charging bags. In case a battery pack should heat up and expand or burst, the bag will help prevent fire. Most hobby shop sites sell them, but like a lot of stuff, I get them off of eBay.
10-30-2014, 02:14 PM
#62
Off topic completely but after opening the Slash i have noticed that the rear shock is broken and that also the rear axle on same side is missing. Can you guy send me what i should upgrade them with bc im getting refunded the parts and im just going to upgrade.
Thanks again
And a big Thank You to everyone helping me out.
Thanks again
And a big Thank You to everyone helping me out.
As far as a new (it is new right?) Slash coming with broken shock....WOW... that would tick me off a bunch. Check out some Slash forums or RCU forums for some input. If you got some cash to burn...Traxxas Big Bore shocks. Im not familiar with them, but everybody's making them and putting them on everything.
Last edited by RustyUs; 10-30-2014 at 02:22 PM.
11-01-2014, 04:04 PM
#63
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Sho Ham , NY
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok guys i finally got the slash out with my son after doing a couple runs of the car at half throttle for a couple packs. I let him play with it out on the road and do some indoor "training" allowing him to get a feel for it. I was constantly checking engine for heat (after readomg another post about motors burning up) We let the car sit for another charge and it no longer moves forward or backwards, CThe steering still works but that is it.
So at this point i assume new motor? It there anything i should be checking and should i upgarde to another brand of motor or stick with the stock motor?
I really have no clue how the motor died. Did not use it on grass or anything.
So at this point i assume new motor? It there anything i should be checking and should i upgarde to another brand of motor or stick with the stock motor?
I really have no clue how the motor died. Did not use it on grass or anything.
11-02-2014, 02:48 AM
#64
Traxxax Slash forum? I don't mind trying to help you out, but some people will look at the title "Poll For My First BL RTR MT" then they get here and see motor problems. It doesn't bother me, I'm just trying to get you to someone who knows more about the traxxax motors. I'm just saying. Here we go.
Was your Slash new?
I'm assuming the motor is a 12T Titan.?
The quickest way to tell if the motor is shot is to remove the motor from the chassis (take pinion off also) and connect it directly to a battery, but hold on to the motor, 'cause if the motor isn't shot, it will "jump" if you don't have a secure hold on it. If the motor works directly connected to a battery then you have to diagnose the signal between the transmitter; ESC, and receiver. Check the wires and see if maybe one tore. I don't know what radio you have, but check that the trim knob/button/setting ,for throttle, maybe it got moved accidentally. Then check the ESC plug on the receiver. Possibly recalibrate the ESC.
Was your Slash new?
I'm assuming the motor is a 12T Titan.?
The quickest way to tell if the motor is shot is to remove the motor from the chassis (take pinion off also) and connect it directly to a battery, but hold on to the motor, 'cause if the motor isn't shot, it will "jump" if you don't have a secure hold on it. If the motor works directly connected to a battery then you have to diagnose the signal between the transmitter; ESC, and receiver. Check the wires and see if maybe one tore. I don't know what radio you have, but check that the trim knob/button/setting ,for throttle, maybe it got moved accidentally. Then check the ESC plug on the receiver. Possibly recalibrate the ESC.
Last edited by RustyUs; 11-02-2014 at 09:18 AM.
11-02-2014, 07:42 AM
#65
Speed, if you PROPERLY use your charger and PROPERLY charge your LiPos, you will NOT burn your house down! Yes, the first time or two you charge a new pack, you might want to keep an eye on it, to be sure the PACK is not defective. After that, don't worry about it.
This charger is available now for $56. For that price, instead of paying a couple hundred for a dual-port charger with a decent power supply (or, having to buy a separate power supply, as the larger chargers require) you could buy two or three of the AC680 !! Look, like others have stated, you don't usually want to charge a Lipo higher than 5 or 6 Amps anyway if you're running 5000mah packs. (The "1C" rule-of-thumb) My buddy and I have been using the both the Thunder AC6 and the AC680 for several years. No problems, and they're quiet.
Racers do sometimes have chargers that can charge a pack at 10 Amps, or more. (A 5000mah pack at 10 Amps would be "2C") BUT they are probably running packs with cells designed for higher charge rates, and those batteries are expensive, and the chargers that can do it are very expensive. Doing that with your average Lipo will contribute to its early demise. As will leaving your Lipos charged or discharged for long. So use the "Storage" function on the charger to charge the pack to its "resting voltage" when you're done playing for the day. This will assure the longest life for the pack.
This charger is available now for $56. For that price, instead of paying a couple hundred for a dual-port charger with a decent power supply (or, having to buy a separate power supply, as the larger chargers require) you could buy two or three of the AC680 !! Look, like others have stated, you don't usually want to charge a Lipo higher than 5 or 6 Amps anyway if you're running 5000mah packs. (The "1C" rule-of-thumb) My buddy and I have been using the both the Thunder AC6 and the AC680 for several years. No problems, and they're quiet.
Racers do sometimes have chargers that can charge a pack at 10 Amps, or more. (A 5000mah pack at 10 Amps would be "2C") BUT they are probably running packs with cells designed for higher charge rates, and those batteries are expensive, and the chargers that can do it are very expensive. Doing that with your average Lipo will contribute to its early demise. As will leaving your Lipos charged or discharged for long. So use the "Storage" function on the charger to charge the pack to its "resting voltage" when you're done playing for the day. This will assure the longest life for the pack.
Last edited by EXT2Rob; 11-02-2014 at 07:46 AM.
11-02-2014, 08:25 PM
#66
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Sho Ham , NY
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Traxxax Slash forum? I don't mind trying to help you out, but some people will look at the title "Poll For My First BL RTR MT" then they get here and see motor problems. It doesn't bother me, I'm just trying to get you to someone who knows more about the traxxax motors. I'm just saying. Here we go.
You are right!
But most forum i have been on they get pissed over making new threads constantly.
Was your Slash new? Yes, it was brand new
.
You are right!
But most forum i have been on they get pissed over making new threads constantly.
Was your Slash new? Yes, it was brand new
.
Speed, if you PROPERLY use your charger and PROPERLY charge your LiPos, you will NOT burn your house down! Yes, the first time or two you charge a new pack, you might want to keep an eye on it, to be sure the PACK is not defective. After that, don't worry about it.
This charger is available now for $56. For that price, instead of paying a couple hundred for a dual-port charger with a decent power supply (or, having to buy a separate power supply, as the larger chargers require) you could buy two or three of the AC680 !! Look, like others have stated, you don't usually want to charge a Lipo higher than 5 or 6 Amps anyway if you're running 5000mah packs. (The "1C" rule-of-thumb) My buddy and I have been using the both the Thunder AC6 and the AC680 for several years. No problems, and they're quiet.
Racers do sometimes have chargers that can charge a pack at 10 Amps, or more. (A 5000mah pack at 10 Amps would be "2C") BUT they are probably running packs with cells designed for higher charge rates, and those batteries are expensive, and the chargers that can do it are very expensive. Doing that with your average Lipo will contribute to its early demise. As will leaving your Lipos charged or discharged for long. So use the "Storage" function on the charger to charge the pack to its "resting voltage" when you're done playing for the day. This will assure the longest life for the pack.
This charger is available now for $56. For that price, instead of paying a couple hundred for a dual-port charger with a decent power supply (or, having to buy a separate power supply, as the larger chargers require) you could buy two or three of the AC680 !! Look, like others have stated, you don't usually want to charge a Lipo higher than 5 or 6 Amps anyway if you're running 5000mah packs. (The "1C" rule-of-thumb) My buddy and I have been using the both the Thunder AC6 and the AC680 for several years. No problems, and they're quiet.
Racers do sometimes have chargers that can charge a pack at 10 Amps, or more. (A 5000mah pack at 10 Amps would be "2C") BUT they are probably running packs with cells designed for higher charge rates, and those batteries are expensive, and the chargers that can do it are very expensive. Doing that with your average Lipo will contribute to its early demise. As will leaving your Lipos charged or discharged for long. So use the "Storage" function on the charger to charge the pack to its "resting voltage" when you're done playing for the day. This will assure the longest life for the pack.
I am now looking into batteries trying to figure out which one im buying. I am thinking of sticking with hard packed 2s lipos . I am worried about burning another 12T though :/
11-03-2014, 06:15 AM
#67
Speedy, which ESC is in the Slash? I'm assuming the XL5, so you can only use brushed motors? The only motor I could find and recommend (open end bell = able to replace brushes) at a decent price was Yeah Racing Hackmoto V2 13T or a KT Racing 12T 540 Brushed motor. They are same can (just different sticker) with one turn difference . I saw a Snow Panther 12T the other day, can't find it now, but is the same thing as the KT Racing; just with a Snow Panther sticker on it.
Here's other companies using the same can with their own sticker on it.
I only found one site with specs...the 12T is rated @ 32,000 rpms. If I'm wrong assuming that all these motor are the same...then I apologize beforehand.
Here's other companies using the same can with their own sticker on it.
I only found one site with specs...the 12T is rated @ 32,000 rpms. If I'm wrong assuming that all these motor are the same...then I apologize beforehand.
Last edited by RustyUs; 11-06-2014 at 07:11 PM.
11-03-2014, 09:53 AM
#69
Ok guys i finally got the slash out with my son after doing a couple runs of the car at half throttle for a couple packs. I let him play with it out on the road and do some indoor "training" allowing him to get a feel for it. I was constantly checking engine for heat (after readomg another post about motors burning up) We let the car sit for another charge and it no longer moves forward or backwards, CThe steering still works but that is it.
So at this point i assume new motor? It there anything i should be checking and should i upgarde to another brand of motor or stick with the stock motor?
I really have no clue how the motor died. Did not use it on grass or anything.
So at this point i assume new motor? It there anything i should be checking and should i upgarde to another brand of motor or stick with the stock motor?
I really have no clue how the motor died. Did not use it on grass or anything.
I'd take the whole thing back and say "Give me a new truck!" Geez, has Traxxas gotten a batch of crap brushed motors here lately? They shouldn't fail that quickly. I HOPE you bought it at the local shop. These things have a warranty. Motors too. If you have a failure within the first month of use, I think you are justified in going to the store and making them give you a new one. Otherwise, they don't deserve your money, or belong in business.
The problem I ran into when my Evader started going thru its stock Photon Speed2 brushed motors was finding a replacement that wasn't too expensive. I bought a Trinity motor, but I wasn't happy with it. Brushes just suck. (Even tho the Trinity had replaceable brushes) Getting a HobbyWing EZrun brushless motor system for not much more than that Trinity was a WAY better choice, and I've never looked back. Sure, getting a brushed RC is a good way to get into the hobby for less $$, and is a good way to learn to drive. But you're going to want to upgrade it to brushless eventually. So the question becomes, do you want to spend the money now, or later? That's a personal choice.
Test that motor like Rusty said. If it doesn't spin, your motor's dead. Take it back and get a new one. If it DOES spin, then you've got something else going on, either in the ESC or the Receiver, and we'd have to have you do some more testing.
Did you get an infra-red thermometer? Very important, that.
I understand your wanting to get the best quality for your buck. Except for price, it's hard to go wrong with Traxxas, because of the HUGE after-market parts support they enjoy. If you have a Traxxas (or Associated or Losi) RPM is your best friend. They make better Slash/Stampede parts than Traxxas. Pro-Line (the tire guys) also make parts for the Slash. Their shocks are very popular. As are the LCG (Low Center of Gravity) conversion kits for the Slash.
But realize ANY RC you buy is going to break somewhere, sometime. Putting good front and rear bumpers on any RC will eliminate the majority of breakage. Learning to drive and not hit stuff is a close 2nd.
Last edited by EXT2Rob; 11-03-2014 at 10:15 AM.
11-03-2014, 06:00 PM
#70
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Sho Ham , NY
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
eBay's Snow Panther 12T brushed motor. The only thing is the waiting for the motors to arrive...shipping from HK.
WHAT!? First you have a broken shock and a missing axle out of the box, then, after just few batteries the motor dies?? That is pathetic! No excuse.
I'd take the whole thing back and say "Give me a new truck!" Geez, has Traxxas gotten a batch of crap brushed motors here lately? They shouldn't fail that quickly. I HOPE you bought it at the local shop. I brought it to my LHS and they told me what needs to be fixed/replaced today. Motor is toast. Shock they fixed and the drive shaft looks as though it was removed from facotry and put in the sealed traxxas bag. It was just pulling tire off and shock them putting it together but the connection piece need a little muscle. Pretty upset but i ended up paying 165 for a 250 truck so im ok as long as it all comes together and there are no more issues. You are right though pretty pathetic.
The problem I ran into when my Evader started going thru its stock Photon Speed2 brushed motors was finding a replacement that wasn't too expensive. I bought a Trinity motor, but I wasn't happy with it. Brushes just suck. (Even tho the Trinity had replaceable brushes) Getting a HobbyWing EZrun brushless motor system for not much more than that Trinity was a WAY better choice, and I've never looked back. Sure, getting a brushed RC is a good way to get into the hobby for less $$, and is a good way to learn to drive. But you're going to want to upgrade it to brushless eventually. So the question becomes, do you want to spend the money now, or later? That's a personal choice. My 7 yr old def would not be able to handle brushless yet. Its the Only reason i didnt just get it BL from the start haha
Test that motor like Rusty said. If it doesn't spin, your motor's dead. Take it back and get a new one. If it DOES spin, then you've got something else going on, either in the ESC or the Receiver, and we'd have to have you do some more testing.
Did you get an infra-red thermometer? Very important, that.ebay? Any brand?
I understand your wanting to get the best quality for your buck. Except for price, it's hard to go wrong with Traxxas, because of the HUGE after-market parts support they enjoy. If you have a Traxxas (or Associated or Losi) RPM is your best friend. They make better Slash/Stampede parts than Traxxas. Pro-Line (the tire guys) also make parts for the Slash. Their shocks are very popular. As are the LCG (Low Center of Gravity) conversion kits for the Slash.
But realize ANY RC you buy is going to break somewhere, sometime. Putting good front and rear bumpers on any RC will eliminate the majority of breakage. Learning to drive and not hit stuff is a close 2nd.
I'd take the whole thing back and say "Give me a new truck!" Geez, has Traxxas gotten a batch of crap brushed motors here lately? They shouldn't fail that quickly. I HOPE you bought it at the local shop. I brought it to my LHS and they told me what needs to be fixed/replaced today. Motor is toast. Shock they fixed and the drive shaft looks as though it was removed from facotry and put in the sealed traxxas bag. It was just pulling tire off and shock them putting it together but the connection piece need a little muscle. Pretty upset but i ended up paying 165 for a 250 truck so im ok as long as it all comes together and there are no more issues. You are right though pretty pathetic.
The problem I ran into when my Evader started going thru its stock Photon Speed2 brushed motors was finding a replacement that wasn't too expensive. I bought a Trinity motor, but I wasn't happy with it. Brushes just suck. (Even tho the Trinity had replaceable brushes) Getting a HobbyWing EZrun brushless motor system for not much more than that Trinity was a WAY better choice, and I've never looked back. Sure, getting a brushed RC is a good way to get into the hobby for less $$, and is a good way to learn to drive. But you're going to want to upgrade it to brushless eventually. So the question becomes, do you want to spend the money now, or later? That's a personal choice. My 7 yr old def would not be able to handle brushless yet. Its the Only reason i didnt just get it BL from the start haha
Test that motor like Rusty said. If it doesn't spin, your motor's dead. Take it back and get a new one. If it DOES spin, then you've got something else going on, either in the ESC or the Receiver, and we'd have to have you do some more testing.
Did you get an infra-red thermometer? Very important, that.ebay? Any brand?
I understand your wanting to get the best quality for your buck. Except for price, it's hard to go wrong with Traxxas, because of the HUGE after-market parts support they enjoy. If you have a Traxxas (or Associated or Losi) RPM is your best friend. They make better Slash/Stampede parts than Traxxas. Pro-Line (the tire guys) also make parts for the Slash. Their shocks are very popular. As are the LCG (Low Center of Gravity) conversion kits for the Slash.
But realize ANY RC you buy is going to break somewhere, sometime. Putting good front and rear bumpers on any RC will eliminate the majority of breakage. Learning to drive and not hit stuff is a close 2nd.
Well with that said i was playing around on ebay and trying to bid up a couple of items i was looking at and them bam i ended up winning one.... I'm not sure if it is a good price i am not even sure about the vehicle, any input is greatly appreciated.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111498024295...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
11-03-2014, 07:58 PM
#71
Nice! That's not bad at all for a 4x4 VXL Slash. You'll be happy.
Just about any IR thermo will do. I got a TrakPower unit. Duratrax makes one for $24. I like that I can get the tip of the Trakpower one into fairly tight spaces to get at, say, the heatsink next to the fan.
Brushless for your son? Sure! Dial back the punch in the ESC programming (and any other "power" setting) and dial back the throttle trim on the radio a bit. Some Traxxas radios have a "Training Mode" that cuts power by 50%. Other radios sometimes have other throttle-taming features. More advanced have End Points. But, let's see how those motors you get from Traxxas hold up. Maybe you'll get a good one that'll last for him. Kudos to Traxxas for doing that for ya.
Just about any IR thermo will do. I got a TrakPower unit. Duratrax makes one for $24. I like that I can get the tip of the Trakpower one into fairly tight spaces to get at, say, the heatsink next to the fan.
Brushless for your son? Sure! Dial back the punch in the ESC programming (and any other "power" setting) and dial back the throttle trim on the radio a bit. Some Traxxas radios have a "Training Mode" that cuts power by 50%. Other radios sometimes have other throttle-taming features. More advanced have End Points. But, let's see how those motors you get from Traxxas hold up.
Maybe you'll get a good one that'll last for him. Kudos to Traxxas for doing that for ya.
11-04-2014, 10:29 AM
#72
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Sho Ham , NY
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I called Traxxas today and it was hysterical bc the guy was telling me all he uses is Traxxas vehicles,parts batteries and chargers. There is nothing as good i should use not other brands or chargers and it is worth waiting an hour and a half for them to be ready. But on the plus side he was very helpful with any and every question up till he started typing on the computer and ignoring me haha.
So he told me to purchase GTR shocks and not to bother with a 2s lipo bc you will get the same power out of the NiMH.and there will be no difference. ALso 25c does not make a difference to say a 50c and also the 25c rating on the traxxas battery is actually a 50c... So im not lost...
Also i did a 2 stage reset on the vehicle and the motor works again.
So he told me to purchase GTR shocks and not to bother with a 2s lipo bc you will get the same power out of the NiMH.and there will be no difference. ALso 25c does not make a difference to say a 50c and also the 25c rating on the traxxas battery is actually a 50c... So im not lost...
Also i did a 2 stage reset on the vehicle and the motor works again.
11-04-2014, 09:58 PM
#73
Hi just to chime in here again.
First, I bought a hackmoto brushless motor and its amazing. So far the looks and performance from it is awesome! I'd would get another hackmoto for sure.
Secondlyist, if ur using an 8.4v (7cell) NiMH batt. then yeah compared to a 2s lipo there wouldn't be much noticed difference. But comparing a 2s 25c to a 2s 50c there would be a noticed difference bcuz the higher C can deliver the power needed better.
Thirdlyer, that guy gets paid to hype up traxxas. Y use the traxxas charger when u can get a charger with more features and faster charge times? U can sell the traxxas charger and get some money back. Once he started typing loud enough to hear over the phone and ignoring me I would have ape **** on him.
Idk there's my 2 cents, BTW I've driven RCS for most of my life(I'm only 21 so its not been that long I guess) but still I'm a driver at heart, however have my punch control set at 70% has helped my wraith a lot
I think you and your son are going to have a blast. My daughter is only 2 and while she definitely shows that she wants to drive she is scared of the truck unless I have my hand on it. If I'm touching it she goes and gets a screw driver and pushes it in by the links and say "I heloin Dada"
First, I bought a hackmoto brushless motor and its amazing. So far the looks and performance from it is awesome! I'd would get another hackmoto for sure.
Secondlyist, if ur using an 8.4v (7cell) NiMH batt. then yeah compared to a 2s lipo there wouldn't be much noticed difference. But comparing a 2s 25c to a 2s 50c there would be a noticed difference bcuz the higher C can deliver the power needed better.
Thirdlyer, that guy gets paid to hype up traxxas. Y use the traxxas charger when u can get a charger with more features and faster charge times? U can sell the traxxas charger and get some money back. Once he started typing loud enough to hear over the phone and ignoring me I would have ape **** on him.
Idk there's my 2 cents, BTW I've driven RCS for most of my life(I'm only 21 so its not been that long I guess) but still I'm a driver at heart, however have my punch control set at 70% has helped my wraith a lot
I think you and your son are going to have a blast. My daughter is only 2 and while she definitely shows that she wants to drive she is scared of the truck unless I have my hand on it. If I'm touching it she goes and gets a screw driver and pushes it in by the links and say "I heloin Dada"
11-04-2014, 11:06 PM
#74
I called Traxxas today and it was hysterical bc the guy was telling me all he uses is Traxxas vehicles,parts batteries and chargers. There is nothing as good i should use not other brands or chargers and it is worth waiting an hour and a half for them to be ready. But on the plus side he was very helpful with any and every question up till he started typing on the computer and ignoring me haha.
So he told me to purchase GTR shocks and not to bother with a 2s lipo bc you will get the same power out of the NiMH.and there will be no difference. ALso 25c does not make a difference to say a 50c and also the 25c rating on the traxxas battery is actually a 50c... So im not lost...
Also i did a 2 stage reset on the vehicle and the motor works again.
So he told me to purchase GTR shocks and not to bother with a 2s lipo bc you will get the same power out of the NiMH.and there will be no difference. ALso 25c does not make a difference to say a 50c and also the 25c rating on the traxxas battery is actually a 50c... So im not lost...
Also i did a 2 stage reset on the vehicle and the motor works again.
A "two-stage reset"??
11-05-2014, 08:38 PM
#75
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Sho Ham , NY
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What a tool. But that's what he get paid to do. The GTR shocks are probably worth it. Prolines would be better. No difference between a NiMh and a Lipo? That guy is smokin' crack if you're talking about brushless motors, even 7-cell NiMh vs 2S Lipo. You may not notice much difference at first, but once that Nimh starts to run down, its voltage sags under throttle, and you loose some power. Not with Lipo. NiMh cells are not designed to deliver the amps a brushless system can draw. I've melted the shrink wrap off NiMh packs with a Castle Sidewinder. And of course those packs didn't last long from that heat. Wouldn't take a charge anymore. If you're running a brushed motor, NiMhs are fine. Brushless? You gotta have LiPO! He's blowing smoke up yer but too if he thinks his, or anybody's 25C Lipo is as good as a 50C LiPo. Will you notice it in your car? Depends if the system can take advantage of the extra amperage capability of the battery. What I've notice is that 50C packs don't get as warm under use as a 25C pack. That's gotta tell you something.
A "two-stage reset"??
A "two-stage reset"??
A "2 stage reset" is turn the car on hold button to red let go, then hold button down again wait for 2 reds then unplug. plug power in and G2G. I had to do it today for the VXL which was in race mode for some odd reason. It seems to do something though haha ....
Only problem im having so far is the heat of the VXL motor it gets really hot in about 4 min. I only ran 2 packs but it gets hot fast. I asked him about a motor fan and he said " it's like putting a band aid on a open wound, it is only temporary haha"