CptKlink

I'm planning on doing a brushless conversion on my Ruckus as i have already ordered the T4/B4 servo saver parts and a HiTec HS-5646WP servo and traxxas adjustable turnbuckles all the way around there in the mail on there way here should be here in a few days.


Now i'm looking to upgrade to a brushless system and am needing a little help finding a decent motor to match my needs. If at all possible I would like to keep the stock gear ratio. I'm strickly a basher I don't race or anything like that.


I have my mind almost made up between 2 ESC's. One being the SV3 Sidewinder 12V Waterproof ESC or the Sidewinder SCT edition cuz the ruckus is heavier then the recommended weight for the Sidewinder 3. And the other being the Turnigy TrackStar 120A. Leaning more towards the Sidewinder 3. Anybody know the AMP rating of the sidewinder 3?


The motor is where i'm really stumped and the whole KV thing still kinda confuses me. I'm thinking something along the lines of a motor between 4000 to 4600KV but I'm not sure what would you guys recommend?


or do you think I should go with something like this ( http://www.horizonhobby.com/horizon-...combo-dyns0707 ) and be done with it?

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

That's the thing that kinda irks me about Castle, they're stingy with their specs. But if you wanted a strong motor and were leaning toward a Castle system (the CastleLink USB dongle and ap are pretty good) yeah I'd get the SCT as opposed to the Sv3. But that Fuse setup looks pretty tempting too. Castle probably has the better motor.

As for what KV rating to get, I'd say 4600kv would be plenty fast for ya. Most SCTs have a lower KV rating than that. I think around 3600KV?

The KV rating is a brushless conversion from the brushed "Turns" or "T" rating, which was the number of turns each coil had. The higher the number of turns, the higher the top speed, but less torque at the low end, which most SCTs need for racing. Not to say the lower-T or -KV "racing" spec motors are slow. But you don't need a SCT to be able to hit a top speed of 45mph when racing. The course isn't that big. It needs acceleration . You need torque. For your bashing, acceleration isn't probably so much your goal, but the thrill of seeing it go fast in a wide open space. Right? That's why I said the 4600KV would be a good choice.

The KV rating really means Revolutions per Volt. (Don't ask me where they get "KV from that) And there are rough equivalents of KV-to-Turns out there for comparison. But these days, most folks use KV. For instance, my HobbyWing 4300KV motor has a "9T" on the can, meaning they're equating the 4300kv motor to a 9T brushed motor, as far as RPM and Torque.

zackS30

I have a 3600kv motor and it says 10.5t
Kinda weird how 1000kv difference knocks off a whole turn.

Castle males great products they are expensive but awesome. I didn't like my MMP that much bcuz it seemed just like the hobbywing I have in my exo but getting the castle link really opens it up to be awesome. The castle link is well worth the 30$ I thought I'd use it just a couple times to switch from brushless to brushed but I've used it about 10times and I've had it a week. Changing punch settings drag breaks and such. The MMP has went from a run of the mill ESC to a pretty remarkable tool. The sensored/sensor less aspect is pretty cool too. A big difference IMO between my hobbywing sc8 with 2700kv ezrun sensor less motor to my MMP with sensored 3600kv sensored motor. The sensor makes it soooo smooth from a baby crawl to full on Wiley coyote.

collector1231

My Feedback: (1)

KV and motor turns are not proportional. I've seen a 3300KV 13.5, 3500 10.5, and even a 2950 KV 9T. Atomik Motors and ESCs are great quality for whatever use you need them for. They come prewired with beefy 12 AWG wire and EC3 connectors. An 8.5 motor should be plenty for the power you need. But first, make sure you have the metal gear transmission and differential. If not, the plastic gears will shred and grind to the point you need to replace them, over and over again.

Motor/ESC; http://www.atomikrc.com/collections/...ored-esc-combo
Transmission; http://www.ebay.com/itm/ECX-Electrix...p2054897.l4275

CptKlink

I already have pretty much the whole drivetrain sorted along with the steering just trying to pick a motor and esc now.

RustyUs

4600kv...no doubt about it. Also if you don't like the "holy crap" speed & takeoff...just kick the punch control down to 10% and cut back the EPA on you transmitter to make your ESC suite your top end taste and/or put a smaller pinion on.

RustyUs

What batteries are you using CptKlink? I started my brushless conversion many moons ago when Castle Creations first came out with the MambaMax combos, and all I can say is just make sure you have good Nimh batteries at least or LiPo packs. I first used NiCds to power my buggy with newly installed brushless motor. The power/energy required to get my brushless motor up to speed was too much for my older NiCds to handle. But after getting some matched 6 cell NiMh packs, I had no problems.

CptKlink

Well I just bought a 2s 6000Mah 50C LiPo battery I plan on useing I also plan on useing my current 6 Cell 5100Mah NiMh and for quick runs I might also use my 6 Cell 2200Mah NiMh. But I already bit the bullet and bought myself a Castle Sidewinder SCT combo with the 3800KV 5mm shaft can. But was wondering if anybody has any ideas on a good size Pinion gear I should Run?

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

THE way for determining the right pinion gear is TEMPERATURE. Get an infra-red thermometer. Start with your stock pinion. Run a Lipo pack for 5 or 10min and measure the motor temp. Brushless motors shouldn't get over 160F. Over 180F, magnets can loose strength and wire insulation can melt causing shorts. On an 80F day, I like a motor running between 120-135F. THe ESC should stay around 125F. If you find the motor is running too hot, gear down a tooth, or two, on the pinion. If the opposite is true, the ESC is warmer than the motor, then you probably need to gear up. But for your 2wd Ruckus, the stock gearing should be fine. But ALWAYS keep an eye on temps when changing anything in the drivetrain.