Carabidae

To be honest I tried the boiling water trick to change tires, but after several attempts it didn't work. So, I took the easy way, I just bought new wheels..





While shopping for wheels, I came across a touring kit which I intend to buy when I get back from my trip. I Can't recall the model, but its all Carbon Fiber and Aluminum chassis.

Carabidae

Just got my PL Powerstroke suspension and filled them with 35, unfortunately and stupidly forgot to order the mounting hardware.. I will see if I can find any hardware that will fit localy or will be ordering them.

RustyUs

I've never used thread lock on any 48P pinion gear. As far back as I can remember, no 1/10 scale manual (that I had) ever mentioned using it (Loctite). So I made it a common practice not using the stuff. I never had a problem. Of course I've always used Robinson Racing pinion gears and they have (IMO) some of the best pinion gear/set screws. I do believe I've stripped more grub screws, and allen wrenchs trying to get the pinion gear off a motor shaft which prompted me to get a quality set of hex drivers to combat the chance of stripping a set screw.

Up until 1/8 scale RCs started showing up at my doorstep, I didn't use thread lock on pinion gears. My 1/8 and larger 1/10 kits that use 32P gears... the manuals do say to use thread lock. With the bigger surface area of 32P gears; coupled with bigger/more powerful motors, I do use Loctite (the blue stuff) religiously. I've also just notice when using lesser quality pinions, the tolerances of some are not so great when inserting the grub screw, and will probably benefit from some of the blue stuff.

Sorry, I am a lurker in this thread, 'cause I would love to have a Firestorm if I didn't have my DTX ST. I had to come out and say...that's an awesome lid on that Firestorm!

Carabidae

Thanks man.. appreciate the words
Im still waiting for a few things in the mail.
As for the PL suspension, no luck, I couldn't find any mounting hardware anywhere. Placed an order for it and a few other thing for the new on road kit I got, its a Xray T3.
last night I found a little package on the table, so it went right on without hesitation





the rear bumper is sitting a bit low, dunno if I had tightened it too much or is it the way it is.. T-Bone!

Carabidae

I changed my pinion to 23T lately to calm it down a bit from wheelies. it kept wheeling at full throttle, but controllable. Anyways, I found a good place for jumps, did some low jumps and kept going higher and higher. did some flips and began to be good at them. Suddenly, at landing the gears went "wing, wing". The pinion ate the spur, Went back home, I only had the 88T (stock) spur that is usable. But, when I tried removing the pinion the screw stripped really bad! knowing that I applied locktite when I installed the pinion. it became fight night! the pinion was removed after cutting it.
No More locktite for me!
now it has 25/88T, still getting wheelies but better drivability.

RustyUs

What I think you need is Robinson Racing pinion gears. The Hard Nickel Plated Alloy Steel Pinions #10xx (xx=tooth number) or the not really needed Super Hard, Heat Treated, "Absolute" pinion gears #14xx. Put those pinions together with a good 1/16" hex driver, and you will have less issues guaranteed. Never use them "L" shaped wrenches that come in RC kits/RTR packages to tighten down pinion set screws. They may be OK to snug something down, and aren't worth a crap IMO. Those generic wrenches are some of the reasons stuff gets tossed across the room .

DieHarder

1/16" hex driver is key. I used a 1.5mm for the longest time. About three months ago I realized that the set screws on those things are actually made for 1/16". I don't have set screw stripping issues anymore...

Carabidae

Actually I never used these wrenches provided with the kits, I have a good set of tools just for the RCs. The pinion was an Xray, no problem with it itself, just the screws provided with them are not worth. bought a few pinion screws from HPI. will give the Robinsons a try.

Carabidae

I just added 2 more horsepowers to the Firestorm







Got these parts laying around a few weeks now, i had nothing much to do so i installed them.
Also took off the MMP esc from one of my onroad cars and installed it in the place of my Flux EMH-3S.
Should i go with the CC 5700kv instead of the MMH-4000kv or just keep it that way?

RustyUs

The only reason I ever bought a 5700kv motor from Castle Creations was...'cause they just came out with them and I didn't know anything about brushless systems at the time. I'll just say one thing about the 5700kv motor...it was over the top! And that was using a 6 cell NiMh pack back in the day. I liked the fact that I knew I had extra "umph" in the motor if I needed it. I never got to use the WOT for more than a split second. The hardest part of racing for me was trying to slow down in time to navigate a hairpin turn, and not traction roll (I did a lot of that before going into the ESC brake settings). I have my 5700kv boxed up now as I strive for a methodical approach to speed using 17.5T and 13.T motors in my stadium trucks and buggies now. I couldn't imagine the 5700kv motor powered by a 3S lipo pack! Actually I could...just go an YouTube .

Carabidae

I got the 5700 on the truck! With the MMP esc. And finally i received the installation hardware for the Proline shocks. By the looks, it sits much better than stock suspension. I didnt try it yet, one of the reasons is the sand throwers i got installed and been really busy with the buggies, but i will do soon!