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A noob I guess?

Old 04-13-2020, 09:21 AM
  #1  
Ironstinky
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Default A noob I guess?

Hey all, just got back into this R/C thing after many years, my last vehicle was an RC10T3. I was looking for something to keep me occupied and my wife okíd a few hundred bucks for a Rustler VXL. I went in expecting that the Rustler would be lacking a little bit as far as balance (which it is) but Iím just bashing at this point. I do have a local indoor track that I will likely visit once we can visit places again.

Anyway, one thing I quickly realized was that a huge part of my enjoyment of my old truck was the experience of taking a box of little plastic parts and painstakingly building it into a working vehicle. So a couple days ago I bought a SC10T6.1 kit and started putting it together. Instantly the awesome feeling returned.

However along with that awesome feeling came the realization that to make the Associated truck work, Iím looking at anywhere from $500 to $1000 (or more) in electronics, radios, motors, tires, bodies, paint, glue, etc.

Now Iím not above dropping what seems like a stupid amount of cash on something that I deem fun. I had a triathlon bike at one point, and the front wheel cost more than some peoples mortgage payment. But I also canít help but notice that the Traxxas came with a brushless motor, ESC, servo, receiver, radio, wheels, tires, basically everything I would need to get the short course truck going except a shorty lipo pack.

So my question is, and I apologize now if itís a dumb question: are the Traxxas electronics garbage? They seem to work fine. Would there be a meaningful reason not to just buy another VXL for 250 bucks, harvest the electronics and wheels from it, and have a complete set of spare parts for my basher as well as a sweet setup for the Associated?

Thanks in advance for any advice!
Old 04-13-2020, 04:35 PM
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bill_delong
 
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Welcome to the hobby!

You did right to go with Associated, and if you plan to do any club racing, then you don't want to use the VXL electronics. You don't have to spend a fortune, but I will try to pinpoint some areas to help you get started in your search:
Which electronics are best?

If I was on a tight budget but didn't want to sacrifice performance, here are the electronics that I would buy for myself today if I was going to race an SC10:

Radio - $50 Radiolink RC4G
Servo - $50 AGF Shorty A62BLS 12kg.cm(167oz-in) @6.0V - 0.074sec/60į@6.0V
Battery - $30 Zeee Shorty 100C-4.6Ah
ESC - $45 HobbyWing QuicRun 10BL120 (Sensored)
Motor - $40 Rocket V2 (7.5T)
Charger - $115 - 30A iCharger X6 800W
Power Supply - $15 --> DIY Conversion

Total Cost around $350 and you will have far better quality gear than VXL by a long shot plus this gear will stand the test of time on the track too

Good luck with your decision!

Last edited by bill_delong; 04-13-2020 at 06:58 PM.
Old 04-13-2020, 05:39 PM
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That all sounds extremely reasonable. Do you think brushed and NiMH will stand up performance wise? Between this reply and talking to a couple other people I have talked myself out of buying another Traxxas to harvest the electronics, but Iím definitely willing to spend more for brushless if the performance gains are what I have heard. Or is it just unusable power?
Old 04-13-2020, 07:19 PM
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I only see brushed electronics used in the Spec Slash class which is very inefficient... those brushed motors start to fade after 3 months and become impractical/expensive to replace/maintain.

Traxxas is very sneaky into suckering you in with seemingly low prices, but the quality of their products is just marginally acceptable where most will end up spending a small fortune on upgrades to where they would've saved money if they simply bought a race grade kit in the first place with higher quality electronics that will stand the test of time.

NiMh batteries are useless with any brushless motor more powerful than a 17.5T motor. If you buy that 7.5T motor that I recommended, you must run a LiPo with that motor, no exceptions!
If you run a 12T brushed motor in your SC10, you will be out gunned on the track every which way imaginable, it will be like taking a knife to a gun fight

When you get into club racing, you want to charge your pack at least 20A which should take about 15 min, this allows you plenty of time to get your pack charged between rounds where a typical race day is 3 quals and 1 main.




Old 04-14-2020, 03:04 AM
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Oh that motor you listed is brushless?! Thatís mega cheap. My newb status is further confirmed, I saw the 7.5t and assumed that meant it was a brushed motor. Thanks again!
Old 04-14-2020, 03:43 AM
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Ironstinky
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I saw a dual balancing lipo charger on Amazon, the forum wonít let me post the link yet because I donít have 10 posts but you could probably view it by searching ďHTRC LiPo Charger DualĒ. Seems like it has a lot of features. Any experience with something like that?
Old 04-14-2020, 05:56 AM
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Regarding wheels/tires: do short course trucks use different wheels and tires than stadium trucks? Iím pretty sure I need different tires for indoor carpet and backyard ripping around. I canít believe how little information these companies that make and sell this stuff have available online. Wish I could go to the track and just see what people are running.
Old 04-14-2020, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Ironstinky
I saw a dual balancing lipo charger on Amazon, the forum won’t let me post the link yet because I don’t have 10 posts but you could probably view it by searching “HTRC LiPo Charger Dual”. Seems like it has a lot of features. Any experience with something like that?
​​​​​​​That HTRC charger can only support 10A charge rates... if you will be club racing then you want a 20A charger at a minimum, I charge my packs at 40A which typically takes about 10 min. The X6 charger that I linked above is a really nice charger which supports up to 30A, you can hook it up to a parallel board and charge up to 6 packs at once if you wanted which will give you far more flexibility than a 2 port charger:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...board&_sacat=0

I would encourage you to read this thread here for more of my thoughts:
Which charger is the best?

The electronics that I linked in post #2 are solid... try to avoid limiting yourself to an AC/DC charger, you will regret buying one... been there done that, trying to help you not make the same mistakes I made

Last edited by bill_delong; 04-14-2020 at 06:23 AM.
Old 04-14-2020, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Ironstinky
Regarding wheels/tires: do short course trucks use different wheels and tires than stadium trucks? Iím pretty sure I need different tires for indoor carpet and backyard ripping around. I canít believe how little information these companies that make and sell this stuff have available online. Wish I could go to the track and just see what people are running.
Correct, every brand of wheel has a different offset, but you can install SCT wheels on your Rustler:

Your SC10 wheels will not fit your Rustler either, be sure to get the Slash offset for your Rustler, those SCT wheels will be compatible.

For indoor carpet, I would recommend these tires:For backyard bashing:
Old 04-15-2020, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by bill_delong
The electronics that I linked in post #2 are solid... try to avoid limiting yourself to an AC/DC charger, you will regret buying one... been there done that, trying to help you not make the same mistakes I made
I actually read that post before, and it sounds cool. When Iím at work I have no problem doing electrical mods to a $200k test fixture, but for some reason when itís stuff I paid for myself and the battery could catch my house on fire, I get less brave. I hear some people say fast charging a LiPo either combusts it or kills its lifespan. Then others say they blast them with 40 amps no problem.

sorry for the delayed response, apparently I get 5 posts a day and I couldnít quote your whole post because it contained URLs... spammers officially ruined bulletin boards
Old 04-15-2020, 08:03 AM
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Try to get into the habit of regularly checking the IR of your batteries when they are being charged and you'll grow to appreciate the level of safety with charging at higher charge rates. When the IR surges above 7mΩ+ then I would start to pay closer attention to any signs of pack swelling which is a key indicator that the pack is nearing the end of its lifespan.... fires tend to occur when people abuse their packs beyond reason, most have no clue what their IR was before the fire started

Also keep in mind that parallel board I mentioned earlier.

putting 4 packs on at 40A would be the net effect of 10A on each pack individually if you wanted to charge multiple packs at the same time.

Last edited by bill_delong; 04-15-2020 at 08:06 AM.
Old 04-15-2020, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by bill_delong
Try to get into the habit of regularly checking the IR of your batteries when they are being charged and you'll grow to appreciate the level of safety with charging at higher charge rates. When the IR surges above 7mΩ+ then I would start to pay closer attention to any signs of pack swelling which is a key indicator that the pack is nearing the end of its lifespan.... fires tend to occur when people abuse their packs beyond reason, most have no clue what their IR was before the fire started

Also keep in mind that parallel board I mentioned earlier.

putting 4 packs on at 40A would be the net effect of 10A on each pack individually if you wanted to charge multiple packs at the same time.
I think you talked me into it. Just gotta make it not look like a ghetto mod so the wife will let me keep it lol

Thanks again for all the help, not sure what I would have done if I hadnít found this forum but it wouldnít have been pretty.
Old 04-15-2020, 11:25 AM
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Not suggestion you buy this case, but giving you an idea of something you can probably make yourself:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/iCharger-40...8AAOSwebdcg1~T

I personally use this case myself:
https://www.harborfreight.com/18-in-...ase-69318.html

I use the foam to store my radio, power strip, power supply, charger, bank discharger all in one case to travel to the track
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Old 04-30-2020, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by bill_delong
I use the foam to store my radio, power strip, power supply, charger, bank discharger all in one case to travel to the track
Ok, still a few things in transit (motor and ESC from China, case backordered from Harbor Freight). The truck is built and looks awesome, and I totally had an awesome time doing it.

The final thing I need (for now, I think) is a pinion. I can get one (or more?) from a local shop, I think the assembly instructions said a 19 or 21 for a 7.5T motor? Anything I should know about pinions?
Old 04-30-2020, 06:37 AM
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make sure you get the correct pitch and bore, I think the shaft on your motor is 1/8" (3.17mm) and 48P for the spur, but double check your manuals, good luck!
Old 04-30-2020, 09:12 AM
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you don't need a 20 amp charge rate and many batteries wont even allow that charge rate. 10 amps is 2c charge rate on a 5000 mah pack. would only take 30 min if your battery was completely dead. I can bash for 20 min on a 5000 mah 2s pack. Between 2 packs I can have an endless supply of run time. I'm to the point where I have to blast my electronics with cool air just too keep going because your electronics will heat up after 20+ min of running. I only charge at 8 amps and my packs are still ready faster than I can run and maintain my truck.

That being said the Icharger linked is a better option than the HTRC. Even though the HTRC is dual charger the Icharger is more powerfull and with the mentioned parallel board will be a better set up IMO. I have a thunderpower 820 CD and I can charge at 20 Amps if I wanted to I just don't because I don't think it's necessary and it will shorten the long term life of the pack. I chargers are the best on the market right now so if you have the cash definitely do it right and buy once and get an I charger. They should have a dual charger also if you don't want to mess with the parallel board.


Brushless sensored set up for sure. motor and esc linked will have you ripping. Brushed and NIHM is for people that don't know better. Lipo and brushless systems are so cheap now you'd spend more maintaining a brushed set up.

Last edited by asupervee72; 04-30-2020 at 09:23 AM.
Old 04-30-2020, 09:34 AM
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If you are going to attempt charging at 40 amps make sure your battery has a high C charge rate. Also keep in mind you are not going to be pulling anywhere close to 40 amps continuous while running. a dead 5000 mah pack could be charged in 15 min at 40 amps, and if you run your packs down that low you are damaging them anyways. I'd stick to 1 c charge rates unless you find yourself running out of batteries, bump it to 2c. The only reason to charge at 40 amps is if you are racing and trying to get every bit of power available. Your average basher isn't gonna notice the difference between a pack charged at a 1 c rate and one that has been blasted. Just my .02
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Old 05-03-2020, 01:21 AM
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