The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
ORIGINAL: NoTraxxisRustler
I'm still messing around with the LIPO cutoff question I posted a few threads back . . . . .
Today I took my truck out and ran it up and down the street wide open and the ESC shut down four separate times, then came back on (set at 6.8). I never even turned it off. It just came back on and ran at full power.
After I finally decided to stop, I pulled the batt out of the truck and and found a voltage reading of 7.54 volts.
Anyone think this makes a case for flakey shutoff on my hobbywing ESC?? Or just a battery that's about to croak. I'm beginning to think cumminsdriver is on to something . . .
. I'm ready to get a new battery and see what that does . . .
??NTR
I'm still messing around with the LIPO cutoff question I posted a few threads back . . . . .
Today I took my truck out and ran it up and down the street wide open and the ESC shut down four separate times, then came back on (set at 6.8). I never even turned it off. It just came back on and ran at full power.
After I finally decided to stop, I pulled the batt out of the truck and and found a voltage reading of 7.54 volts.
Anyone think this makes a case for flakey shutoff on my hobbywing ESC?? Or just a battery that's about to croak. I'm beginning to think cumminsdriver is on to something . . .
. I'm ready to get a new battery and see what that does . . .
??NTR
When I had my cutoff set at 3.4v per cell, I tried it on a 7 cell NiMh that was fully charged (that should be around 9 volts?). The cutoff would kick in almost instantly. It would only run for maybe 45 seconds if i was running it hard before the cutoff would shut it down. I only tried it a couple times at 3.4v cutoff. I think i switched to 3.2 and it was still shutting down a little early. Went to 3.0v and that seems to be working perfect. Batteries come out with a safe amount of voltage and the cutoff kicks in when it should. Give it a try and see how yours acts...
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
Lol, where the heck did u get a 12000mah life cell? Parallel?
ORIGINAL: rclugnut10
6.8 is ridiculously high, whats happening is the voltage sags under heavy load and that causes the dip in the voltage especially 6.8v thats only 3.4v per cell, which isnt super low for a lipo, so you were tripping your LVC before your pack was dead, drop that down to 6.2 or 6.3 and try it again... and it reads 7.54v because the voltage goes back up once the load comes off of it... take a flashlight (old style, non led) run it down a AAA cell with it, and as it starts to dim significantly, take off the load, then apply it again... you may want to put a few in series to make it drain faster...
i've been doing some testing on some 12Ah life cells pulling 60A out of them start voltage of 3.6v they'll dip down to 3.12v and slowly go down to 3.08v for about 10 min, then start to free fall, but the voltage will come back up to about 3.2v from 2.54v, so it maintained 3.1v for 10 min then dropped down about half a volt over a min near the end of the pack... so you could be right on the endge of that drop off and dipping down under heavier loads, i don't have any data with vairable loads yet, which would be similar to driving an RC car but yeah... for a 6.8v cutoff i'd be surprised if you didn't see results like that
the lug
6.8 is ridiculously high, whats happening is the voltage sags under heavy load and that causes the dip in the voltage especially 6.8v thats only 3.4v per cell, which isnt super low for a lipo, so you were tripping your LVC before your pack was dead, drop that down to 6.2 or 6.3 and try it again... and it reads 7.54v because the voltage goes back up once the load comes off of it... take a flashlight (old style, non led) run it down a AAA cell with it, and as it starts to dim significantly, take off the load, then apply it again... you may want to put a few in series to make it drain faster...
i've been doing some testing on some 12Ah life cells pulling 60A out of them start voltage of 3.6v they'll dip down to 3.12v and slowly go down to 3.08v for about 10 min, then start to free fall, but the voltage will come back up to about 3.2v from 2.54v, so it maintained 3.1v for 10 min then dropped down about half a volt over a min near the end of the pack... so you could be right on the endge of that drop off and dipping down under heavier loads, i don't have any data with vairable loads yet, which would be similar to driving an RC car but yeah... for a 6.8v cutoff i'd be surprised if you didn't see results like that
the lug
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
ORIGINAL: thehuntingterminator
Lol, where the heck did u get a 12000mah life cell? Parallel?
Lol, where the heck did u get a 12000mah life cell? Parallel?
ORIGINAL: rclugnut10
6.8 is ridiculously high, whats happening is the voltage sags under heavy load and that causes the dip in the voltage especially 6.8v thats only 3.4v per cell, which isnt super low for a lipo, so you were tripping your LVC before your pack was dead, drop that down to 6.2 or 6.3 and try it again... and it reads 7.54v because the voltage goes back up once the load comes off of it... take a flashlight (old style, non led) run it down a AAA cell with it, and as it starts to dim significantly, take off the load, then apply it again... you may want to put a few in series to make it drain faster...
i've been doing some testing on some 12Ah life cells pulling 60A out of them start voltage of 3.6v they'll dip down to 3.12v and slowly go down to 3.08v for about 10 min, then start to free fall, but the voltage will come back up to about 3.2v from 2.54v, so it maintained 3.1v for 10 min then dropped down about half a volt over a min near the end of the pack... so you could be right on the endge of that drop off and dipping down under heavier loads, i don't have any data with vairable loads yet, which would be similar to driving an RC car but yeah... for a 6.8v cutoff i'd be surprised if you didn't see results like that
the lug
6.8 is ridiculously high, whats happening is the voltage sags under heavy load and that causes the dip in the voltage especially 6.8v thats only 3.4v per cell, which isnt super low for a lipo, so you were tripping your LVC before your pack was dead, drop that down to 6.2 or 6.3 and try it again... and it reads 7.54v because the voltage goes back up once the load comes off of it... take a flashlight (old style, non led) run it down a AAA cell with it, and as it starts to dim significantly, take off the load, then apply it again... you may want to put a few in series to make it drain faster...
i've been doing some testing on some 12Ah life cells pulling 60A out of them start voltage of 3.6v they'll dip down to 3.12v and slowly go down to 3.08v for about 10 min, then start to free fall, but the voltage will come back up to about 3.2v from 2.54v, so it maintained 3.1v for 10 min then dropped down about half a volt over a min near the end of the pack... so you could be right on the endge of that drop off and dipping down under heavier loads, i don't have any data with vairable loads yet, which would be similar to driving an RC car but yeah... for a 6.8v cutoff i'd be surprised if you didn't see results like that
the lug
nope
http://stores.headway-headquarters.c...gory=BATTERIES
i play with lots of batteries at school... and yeahh...
the lug
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
Imis-stated my LIPO cutoff value in my prior post.It was actually 3.2v per cell (6.4)
In reviewing the HobbyWingliterature, the default cutoff was 3.0. I just set it back to that. I ran it up and down my street this evening (boring) to see what would happen. It ranfor a long time.Thebatt. came out of the truckwith 7.08v, each cell @ 3.5 and some change.
Charge time was 55 minutes,and I put about 3.45 Ah back in, which more than 80%, but is closer to what Iwould expect.
I'm going to run it like this for a while and seewhat happens.
NTR
In reviewing the HobbyWingliterature, the default cutoff was 3.0. I just set it back to that. I ran it up and down my street this evening (boring) to see what would happen. It ranfor a long time.Thebatt. came out of the truckwith 7.08v, each cell @ 3.5 and some change.
Charge time was 55 minutes,and I put about 3.45 Ah back in, which more than 80%, but is closer to what Iwould expect.
I'm going to run it like this for a while and seewhat happens.
NTR
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
* Went to 3.0v and that seems to be working perfect. Batteries come out with a safe amount of voltage and the cutoff kicks in when it should. Give it a try and see how yours acts... *
yep - that's what I'm doing - my results are consistnet with yours.
BTW - your vader looks pretty cool as an F150. Maybe a little red? But most of us are grown men playing with RC trucks . . so what the heck.
Thanks all.
NTR
yep - that's what I'm doing - my results are consistnet with yours.
BTW - your vader looks pretty cool as an F150. Maybe a little red? But most of us are grown men playing with RC trucks . . so what the heck.
Thanks all.
NTR
ORIGINAL: cummins driver
I think 3.4v cutoff is what i tried at first on mine. Like I said, I could run it but maybe 2 minutes and the cutoff was coming in. Now that i've changed the cutoff to 3.0v per cell, Im getting 25 minutes or so before the cutoff comes in and my lipo's still come out of the truck right at 7.0 volts or so. I really dont think its hurting the lipo's. I think maybe the cutoff is just ultra sensitive (or flakey?) on the Hobbywing ESC's.
When I had my cutoff set at 3.4v per cell, I tried it on a 7 cell NiMh that was fully charged (that should be around 9 volts?). The cutoff would kick in almost instantly. It would only run for maybe 45 seconds if i was running it hard before the cutoff would shut it down. I only tried it a couple times at 3.4v cutoff. I think i switched to 3.2 and it was still shutting down a little early. Went to 3.0v and that seems to be working perfect. Batteries come out with a safe amount of voltage and the cutoff kicks in when it should. Give it a try and see how yours acts...
ORIGINAL: NoTraxxisRustler
I'm still messing around with the LIPO cutoff question I posted a few threads back . . . . .
Today I took my truck out and ran it up and down the street wide open andthe ESC shut down four separate times, then came back on(set at 6.8). I never even turned it off. It just came back on and ran at full power.
After I finally decided to stop, I pulled the batt out of the truck and and found a voltage reading of7.54 volts.
Anyone think this makes a case for flakey shutoff on my hobbywing ESC?? Or just a battery that'sabout to croak.I'm beginning to think cumminsdriver is on to something . . .
.I'm ready to get a new battery and see what that does . . .
??NTR
I'm still messing around with the LIPO cutoff question I posted a few threads back . . . . .
Today I took my truck out and ran it up and down the street wide open andthe ESC shut down four separate times, then came back on(set at 6.8). I never even turned it off. It just came back on and ran at full power.
After I finally decided to stop, I pulled the batt out of the truck and and found a voltage reading of7.54 volts.
Anyone think this makes a case for flakey shutoff on my hobbywing ESC?? Or just a battery that'sabout to croak.I'm beginning to think cumminsdriver is on to something . . .
.I'm ready to get a new battery and see what that does . . .
??NTR
When I had my cutoff set at 3.4v per cell, I tried it on a 7 cell NiMh that was fully charged (that should be around 9 volts?). The cutoff would kick in almost instantly. It would only run for maybe 45 seconds if i was running it hard before the cutoff would shut it down. I only tried it a couple times at 3.4v cutoff. I think i switched to 3.2 and it was still shutting down a little early. Went to 3.0v and that seems to be working perfect. Batteries come out with a safe amount of voltage and the cutoff kicks in when it should. Give it a try and see how yours acts...
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
What r you doing in school? ..EE?
NTR
NTR
ORIGINAL: rclugnut10
nope
http://stores.headway-headquarters.c...gory=BATTERIES
i play with lots of batteries at school... and yeahh...
the lug
ORIGINAL: thehuntingterminator
Lol, where the heck did u get a 12000mah life cell? Parallel?
Lol, where the heck did u get a 12000mah life cell? Parallel?
ORIGINAL: rclugnut10
6.8 is ridiculously high, whats happening is the voltage sags under heavy load and that causes the dip in the voltage especially 6.8v thats only 3.4v per cell, which isnt super low for a lipo, so you were tripping your LVC before your pack was dead, drop that down to 6.2 or 6.3 and try it again... and it reads 7.54v because the voltage goes back up once the load comes off of it... take a flashlight (old style, non led) run it down a AAA cell with it, and as it starts to dim significantly, take off the load, then apply it again... you may want to put a few in series to make it drain faster...
i've been doing some testing on some 12Ah life cells pulling 60A out of them start voltage of 3.6v they'll dip down to 3.12v and slowly go down to 3.08v for about 10 min, then start to free fall, but the voltage will come back up to about 3.2v from 2.54v, so it maintained 3.1v for 10 min then dropped down about half a volt over a min near the end of the pack... so you could be right on the endge of that drop off and dipping down under heavier loads, i don't have any data with vairable loads yet, which would be similar to driving an RC car but yeah... for a 6.8v cutoff i'd be surprised if you didn't see results like that
the lug
6.8 is ridiculously high, whats happening is the voltage sags under heavy load and that causes the dip in the voltage especially 6.8v thats only 3.4v per cell, which isnt super low for a lipo, so you were tripping your LVC before your pack was dead, drop that down to 6.2 or 6.3 and try it again... and it reads 7.54v because the voltage goes back up once the load comes off of it... take a flashlight (old style, non led) run it down a AAA cell with it, and as it starts to dim significantly, take off the load, then apply it again... you may want to put a few in series to make it drain faster...
i've been doing some testing on some 12Ah life cells pulling 60A out of them start voltage of 3.6v they'll dip down to 3.12v and slowly go down to 3.08v for about 10 min, then start to free fall, but the voltage will come back up to about 3.2v from 2.54v, so it maintained 3.1v for 10 min then dropped down about half a volt over a min near the end of the pack... so you could be right on the endge of that drop off and dipping down under heavier loads, i don't have any data with vairable loads yet, which would be similar to driving an RC car but yeah... for a 6.8v cutoff i'd be surprised if you didn't see results like that
the lug
nope
http://stores.headway-headquarters.c...gory=BATTERIES
i play with lots of batteries at school... and yeahh...
the lug
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
ORIGINAL: NoTraxxisRustler
* Went to 3.0v and that seems to be working perfect. Batteries come out with a safe amount of voltage and the cutoff kicks in when it should. Give it a try and see how yours acts... *
yep - that's what I'm doing - my results are consistnet with yours.
BTW - your vader looks pretty cool as an F150. Maybe a little red? But most of us are grown men playing with RC trucks . . so what the heck.
Thanks all.
NTR
* Went to 3.0v and that seems to be working perfect. Batteries come out with a safe amount of voltage and the cutoff kicks in when it should. Give it a try and see how yours acts... *
yep - that's what I'm doing - my results are consistnet with yours.
BTW - your vader looks pretty cool as an F150. Maybe a little red? But most of us are grown men playing with RC trucks . . so what the heck.
Thanks all.
NTR
Yes, the body kinda makes the truck look ragged out, but It was free and will make a good beater body to keep from tearing up the stocker so fast. Plus its twice as sturdy. I like the truck look better. Id really like to find a nice looking truck body that fits decent. I think it would look good like that once i get some meatier tires on it. Its definately Redneck, but since i live in Kentucky, I just fit in good
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
ORIGINAL: NoTraxxisRustler
What r you doing in school? .. EE?
NTR
What r you doing in school? .. EE?
NTR
ORIGINAL: rclugnut10
nope
http://stores.headway-headquarters.c...gory=BATTERIES
i play with lots of batteries at school... and yeahh...
the lug
ORIGINAL: thehuntingterminator
Lol, where the heck did u get a 12000mah life cell? Parallel?
Lol, where the heck did u get a 12000mah life cell? Parallel?
ORIGINAL: rclugnut10
6.8 is ridiculously high, whats happening is the voltage sags under heavy load and that causes the dip in the voltage especially 6.8v thats only 3.4v per cell, which isnt super low for a lipo, so you were tripping your LVC before your pack was dead, drop that down to 6.2 or 6.3 and try it again... and it reads 7.54v because the voltage goes back up once the load comes off of it... take a flashlight (old style, non led) run it down a AAA cell with it, and as it starts to dim significantly, take off the load, then apply it again... you may want to put a few in series to make it drain faster...
i've been doing some testing on some 12Ah life cells pulling 60A out of them start voltage of 3.6v they'll dip down to 3.12v and slowly go down to 3.08v for about 10 min, then start to free fall, but the voltage will come back up to about 3.2v from 2.54v, so it maintained 3.1v for 10 min then dropped down about half a volt over a min near the end of the pack... so you could be right on the endge of that drop off and dipping down under heavier loads, i don't have any data with vairable loads yet, which would be similar to driving an RC car but yeah... for a 6.8v cutoff i'd be surprised if you didn't see results like that
the lug
6.8 is ridiculously high, whats happening is the voltage sags under heavy load and that causes the dip in the voltage especially 6.8v thats only 3.4v per cell, which isnt super low for a lipo, so you were tripping your LVC before your pack was dead, drop that down to 6.2 or 6.3 and try it again... and it reads 7.54v because the voltage goes back up once the load comes off of it... take a flashlight (old style, non led) run it down a AAA cell with it, and as it starts to dim significantly, take off the load, then apply it again... you may want to put a few in series to make it drain faster...
i've been doing some testing on some 12Ah life cells pulling 60A out of them start voltage of 3.6v they'll dip down to 3.12v and slowly go down to 3.08v for about 10 min, then start to free fall, but the voltage will come back up to about 3.2v from 2.54v, so it maintained 3.1v for 10 min then dropped down about half a volt over a min near the end of the pack... so you could be right on the endge of that drop off and dipping down under heavier loads, i don't have any data with vairable loads yet, which would be similar to driving an RC car but yeah... for a 6.8v cutoff i'd be surprised if you didn't see results like that
the lug
nope
http://stores.headway-headquarters.c...gory=BATTERIES
i play with lots of batteries at school... and yeahh...
the lug
MechE just co leading an electric snowmobile team... batteries are kinda a big deal...
the lug
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
Mech E - That's pretty cool. Wish Ihad had pursued that one.
Batteries are going to be pretty big moving forward.
NTR
Batteries are going to be pretty big moving forward.
NTR
ORIGINAL: rclugnut10
MechE just co leading an electric snowmobile team... batteries are kinda a big deal...
the lug
ORIGINAL: NoTraxxisRustler
What r you doing in school? ..EE?
NTR
What r you doing in school? ..EE?
NTR
ORIGINAL: rclugnut10
nope
http://stores.headway-headquarters.c...gory=BATTERIES
i play with lots of batteries at school... and yeahh...
the lug
ORIGINAL: thehuntingterminator
Lol, where the heck did u get a 12000mah life cell? Parallel?
Lol, where the heck did u get a 12000mah life cell? Parallel?
ORIGINAL: rclugnut10
6.8 is ridiculously high, whats happening is the voltage sags under heavy load and that causes the dip in the voltage especially 6.8v thats only 3.4v per cell, which isnt super low for a lipo, so you were tripping your LVC before your pack was dead, drop that down to 6.2 or 6.3 and try it again... and it reads 7.54v because the voltage goes back up once the load comes off of it... take a flashlight (old style, non led) run it down a AAA cell with it, and as it starts to dim significantly, take off the load, then apply it again... you may want to put a few in series to make it drain faster...
i've been doing some testing on some 12Ah life cells pulling 60A out of them start voltage of 3.6v they'll dip down to 3.12v and slowly go down to 3.08v for about 10 min, then start to free fall, but the voltage will come back up to about 3.2v from 2.54v, so it maintained 3.1v for 10 min then dropped down about half a volt over a min near the end of the pack... so you could be right on the endge of that drop off and dipping down under heavier loads, i don't have any data with vairable loads yet, which would be similar to driving an RC car but yeah... for a 6.8v cutoff i'd be surprised if you didn't see results like that
the lug
6.8 is ridiculously high, whats happening is the voltage sags under heavy load and that causes the dip in the voltage especially 6.8v thats only 3.4v per cell, which isnt super low for a lipo, so you were tripping your LVC before your pack was dead, drop that down to 6.2 or 6.3 and try it again... and it reads 7.54v because the voltage goes back up once the load comes off of it... take a flashlight (old style, non led) run it down a AAA cell with it, and as it starts to dim significantly, take off the load, then apply it again... you may want to put a few in series to make it drain faster...
i've been doing some testing on some 12Ah life cells pulling 60A out of them start voltage of 3.6v they'll dip down to 3.12v and slowly go down to 3.08v for about 10 min, then start to free fall, but the voltage will come back up to about 3.2v from 2.54v, so it maintained 3.1v for 10 min then dropped down about half a volt over a min near the end of the pack... so you could be right on the endge of that drop off and dipping down under heavier loads, i don't have any data with vairable loads yet, which would be similar to driving an RC car but yeah... for a 6.8v cutoff i'd be surprised if you didn't see results like that
the lug
nope
http://stores.headway-headquarters.c...gory=BATTERIES
i play with lots of batteries at school... and yeahh...
the lug
MechE just co leading an electric snowmobile team... batteries are kinda a big deal...
the lug
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
I think mechanical or aerospace would be the most interesting fields to bein engineering wise
Anyway, have you had any luck with this part? http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXVWC6&P=OW
It's the DTX CV shaft . . . The stock rear axles are wimpy. Inoticed one was bent on my truck last night, replaced, then bent the new one today.Sometimes I'll go for a month without bending, then I'll bend three.I think DTX may have someQC issues with some of these parts.
thanks
NTR
.
Anyway, have you had any luck with this part? http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXVWC6&P=OW
It's the DTX CV shaft . . . The stock rear axles are wimpy. Inoticed one was bent on my truck last night, replaced, then bent the new one today.Sometimes I'll go for a month without bending, then I'll bend three.I think DTX may have someQC issues with some of these parts.
thanks
NTR
.
ORIGINAL: rclugnut10
yupp it's really cool i love working on the sled it's a ton of fun....
the lug
yupp it's really cool i love working on the sled it's a ton of fun....
the lug
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
i've had very few issues with them over the past 4 years, the only issues were the pins rusting and breaking after running in the winter
the lug
the lug
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
Does the evader cvd shaft set use spring pins in them like the factory dogbones,or does it use a solid pin? Looks like a solid pin, but I can't tell for sure in the picture. I wish they would hurry up and get the brushless tranny parts out. I'm afraid to put any bigger tires on it until I get at least the metal diff gear. EsPecially since my father in laws stripped the diff gear on the first run with a brushless and bigger tires.
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
just looked and on Tower they are selling the new BL Evader for $250. seems like a pretty dang good deal. but, is the ESC made by Castle (looks like a re-branded Sidewinder cuz of the heat sinks, but idk) or is it a Chinese one (cuz its advertised as 100A)? can y'all tell?
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
its castle. they released that system some time ago (i think aug. or sep.) and it said the motor was a 4 pole as i recall. (far to lazy to check...)
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
yeahh it's a 4 pole 3900kv probally about the same as thier 3800 motor just a few build spec's are different that bump up the kv a tad...
the lug
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
Well, the Evader is down[] Im a little dissapointed at the moment. My plastic diff gear finally stripped with the 3900kv motor. No big deal, cause i can replace that with the steel diff gear that will be out by next month.
However, my top gear is worn down just like the one in the pictures a little ways back in this thread. The teeth are real sharp on top, and likely would only last another run or so before giving out completely.
Can anyone confirm if the new top gear is going to be hardened for sure? If there is no fix for the top gear, I am going to sell the evader and probably buy a T4. However, i really like this truck besides the transmission issues, so if they have a hardened top gear, and the steel diff gear for that by next month then i can live with it till then. My idler gear still looks perfect, so i dont think that will be an issue.
Anyways, here are some pictures for now(hard to tell much in the pics) . Gonna call duratrax tomorrow and see if they can ship out the replacement diff gear and top gear for free.
However, my top gear is worn down just like the one in the pictures a little ways back in this thread. The teeth are real sharp on top, and likely would only last another run or so before giving out completely.
Can anyone confirm if the new top gear is going to be hardened for sure? If there is no fix for the top gear, I am going to sell the evader and probably buy a T4. However, i really like this truck besides the transmission issues, so if they have a hardened top gear, and the steel diff gear for that by next month then i can live with it till then. My idler gear still looks perfect, so i dont think that will be an issue.
Anyways, here are some pictures for now(hard to tell much in the pics) . Gonna call duratrax tomorrow and see if they can ship out the replacement diff gear and top gear for free.
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
I'm locking this thread, it's huge and is starting to slow down the site a bit. I made a new one here's the link, carry on there, great thread!
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10810730/tm.htm
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10810730/tm.htm
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Hello Evader Peeps...
Hope someone is still out there... I've been out of the game for a long time and have lots of questions.... I first would like to know more about the evader line history... Seems like there's a brush less evader now... when did that come out... Heck when did the original evader come out?
A little history lesson would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Soad100100
Hope someone is still out there... I've been out of the game for a long time and have lots of questions.... I first would like to know more about the evader line history... Seems like there's a brush less evader now... when did that come out... Heck when did the original evader come out?
A little history lesson would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Soad100100
Hey guys! The Evader Coalition was such a hit, they made a part 2. It's currently active here: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-e...rt-2-a-61.html Post away! I and many others have all the answers to your questions!