squeeguk

Cheers, will see what they got.

citrus

i need help with gearing, i have the stock plastic gears that came with it, think theyre 78t and 90t. what one should i use with a 26t on a Orion SV2 Formula Pro-BB 13x3 motor?, ill be using it mostly on short grass...

streetracer745

its 78tooth and 85 tooth. i would probly go with the 85 tooth gear. im running a 10x2 and use a 22/85 gearing. so i think with a 13 a 26/85 would be ok

citrus

took it out yesterday with the stock motor, slow but still way fun

muckute

Just wondering if anyone has run these dirt hawg 2.2 truck tires on their DI and if so how they went

squeeguk

Not sure about the tyres, but just ordered my MM 6900, should be with me in a couple of weeks.

streetracer745

squeeguk - very cool. cant wait to hear bout how it does.


muckute. im guessing your trying to make it a truggy.... well ill tell you that those tires wont work. ive used those on STs and they are extreemly heavy for ST tires. i would use something light like pro-line holeshots, gladiators, or bow ties. those are all great quality and very light, which is what you want. dirt hawgs would be way too heavy.

squeeguk

Hey guys, perhaps you can answer this. I have an old Apex charger and want to get a new Duratrax ICE. My old charger runs off the mains, but the ICE only runs off battery power. How do you guys do this? Is there some sort of AC to DC power pack that I can get, keeping in mind that in the UK we have 220V?

Thanks

Myhre

My Feedback: (3)

Best bet is probably going to be getting a 12V lawnmower battery, and something to charge it with.

streetracer745

or a car battery. ive never used that car battery so im not sure what to tell you.

rcxboy

You can use a modified computer PSU, pretty easy really. Just make sure it puts out at least 5amps on 12v, which is hardly any anyway..

http://web2.murraystate.edu/andy.bat...OWERSUPPLY.HTM
http://www.marcee.org/Articles/PCPowerSupply.htm

cubmaster

My Feedback: (51)

I've got to share a little tip with you all. I wasn't impressed with all the slop in the drivetrain so I did two things to take out 90% of it.
1st I took the (correct me if I'm wrong on terminaligy) bevel gear that drives the output shaft from the tranny and the input to the front-end and found that the pin to gear play was allot so I used a small dab of hotglue on either side of the pin and pushed it in place very quickly. It felt like it was welded after that and I reassembled. Then I found the driveshaft had a huge amount of play and I put a small plop of silicon sealant in each cup, inserted the driveshaft and smoothed out the sealant.

Check the play the next day and it was almost gone and the drivetrain was smooth as silk, Before that the driveshaft looked like it was bent from all the play in it.

It's a small trick that should help on wear and tear of the gears, Less play= less wear.

Hope this helps a few people to tighten the drivetrain

cubmaster

My Feedback: (51)

I'm looking at truggy'ing my DI also and really would like to know what 2.2 truck wheels would be best and will the hubs holdup?
I've got the CVD's and steel outputs on the diffs already.

squeeguk

Excellent stuff there. Fortuitously, I seem to have an old PSU lying around. Will get to modifying that immediately, wel over the next week or so, no rush.

rc10b4_racer

my friend took out the di and wants a money motor. any upgrades i need. also what are better shocks he can get

Myhre

My Feedback: (3)

I have 4 of those on rear rusty rims. I used it on my DI with my 5700. The motor and ESC were getting pretty warm. But it still hauled, and went over everything I could throw at it. But.....the motor and esc were getting pretty warm.

streetracer745

like ive said before somehwere on here, with light weight wheels and tires it can be made truggy easy. check a few pages back and look for a post from me about hpi SS Monster wheels. they have huge off set and with light tires like the ones ive said before(proline holeshots, and others built like that) wont be much harder on your motor.

cubmaster - good tips. you can also add small o-rings into the drive cups or small bits of foam like the stuff used in the output joints in the center drive shaft. it works great and allows it to move slightly if there is a huge shock. good advice though. might try something in my gear box. also. MORE GREASE! that cuts wear down and makes everythign smoother once it gets evenly spread( which happens in only a few spins of each gear) that is probably the cheapest thing you can do. and if your willing to drop the cash, put some acer racing or avid bearings into it(rubber sealed) and it will chaneg the world. you will be so amazed at how much better they help. and last a ton longer. heres a link for acer racing bearings

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRWX9&P=7

rcxboy

If you're running at stock gearing, you probably should gear down, especially with a 5700…

cubmaster

My Feedback: (51)

streetracer745 are you talking these wheels

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXM875&P=7

How about these tires

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLDK4&P=M = Moab

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDX67&P=M = Gadiator

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDX79&P=7 = Bowtie

Anyone know how much more the Moab's weigh over say bowtie's?

I'm going to get one of these chassis's too if I end up keeping my DI.

http://www.monotuning.com/index_epro...roducts_id=215


I'm debating on selling all my RC's and just keeping one all around RC. I'vd got a aluminum chassis/dual steering servo E-Maxx, a rally 10th scale tired RC18b thats totally rebuilt to better than new, a almost ready to asssemble 3.3 spec E-Maxx with proline steering and 600 motors planned, and last a DI with CVDs/steel outdrives and pretty good electrics.

If my Dark Impact could change batteries without lifting body (which I think this chassis above would allow) and be able to use bigger tires I'd have my answer already.

It's hard when you think about getting rid of your babies and just having to choise 1. I'm doing this to cut back cost and I don't really use them that much.

streetracer745

yes those wheels. and the gladiator or bowties would be good. and the moabs are heavy.

Josh222

Post race day

streetracer745

I JUST THINK I FRIED MY STUFF! i was driving and hit a root and flipped, rolled into a puddle and soaked everything. almost $200 worth of electronics down the drain! im so pissed!

rcxboy

Calm down, just take it all apart, place it on a non-conductive surface (ie not carpet), then blow dry it with a hair dryer. The leave in a warm dry place for at least 24 hours.

RX should be OK, they usually survive water fine. Not sure about 2.4ghz ones though.

Hey josh, how'd you do racing?

squeeguk

Sorry to hear that mate, perhaps rcxboy's suggestion will work?

Good luck.

streetracer745

yeah i did that before i posted. but my speedo has gone through some rough times and wasnt sure if it could take it. and i cant afford to drop $100 on a new one. but luckily i was able to keep them dry and working. just checked it.