bluefisherking

Pretty sure it was US$22.

lam1na

Oh right thanks, thats a really good price

jleeper

I've recently entered into the R/C fun with the purchase of an HBX for my son off of ebay.  After now having it a couple weeks and being satisfied with it I decided to also get one for myself (should be here wed) .  I was wondering what type of battery upgrade is suggested and supply source?  At this point being new into this sport I don't plan any big mod's, but a better battery would be nice.   Thanks....

bluefisherking

Welcome, and good job :-)

The truck usually comes with a 6-cell, 7.2v NiCd "stick" battery pack of 1800mAh capacity (or thereabouts). There are two battery technologies that are better than that - NiMH packs (which are very similar but have higher capacities and better power output), and Lipos (totally different, needing more specialised chargers and voltage sensing ESC or circuits etc, but way more powerful).

Based on your question, I would suggest buying a 7.2v NiMH stick pack with a capacity of at least 3000mAh, and preferably something like 4500mAh. The former would cost (in the UK) something like Β£15, and the latter something like Β£28. Make sure it is a stick pack, and not "side-by-side". Be aware that you need a charger capable of charging NiMHs (i.e. not just NiCds, like the little one that probably came with the truck) which would be Β£15+

[You could buy a 7-cell, 8.4v version of the above, but if you are looking for minimum work be aware that they don't really fit in the battery slot and may burn up your motor/ESC more rapidly.]

I would not particularly suggest buying Venom as a brand.

Cheap Guy

Along with a better battery you may want to consider buying a good charger, if you don't already have one. I found that the long charge times is a sure way to turn you off to RC'ing. The Onyx series are fairly good chargers at a good price, but there are other brands to consider. Even though you didn't buy your car from a local hobby shop (LHS) you may still want to consider checking one out to at least get a charger.

Also, batteries are much cheaper on line, especially in the larger mah's. Larger mah's = longer run times. If you're in a hurry, Radio Shack also carries a decent 3300 mah for around $30 that will give you reasonable run time. As mentioned above, you'll probably want to stick with nimh batteries as a beginner.

jleeper

Thanks for the suggestions!!  So, would these batteries work ok in this auction?  I'll also check into a better charger too...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Cheap Guy

A lot of the eBay batteries are hit-and-miss. To be perfectly honest with you, since I've gone totally lipo for my 1/10 cars, I'm not sure who sells the best/cheapest nimh batteries anymore. I'm sure others will chip in, but again, going the eBay route is a little risky UNLESS they are from a well-regarded source.

rallytorget

I have bought some of these battery and they were marked with 3800mah but they werenΒ΄t better than maybe 1500mah battery. So I suggest you donΒ΄t buy them!

I often use Vapextech 7,2volt 3700mAh and Vapextech 8,4volt 3700mAh. They are good batteries for a low cost, and you will find them on Ebay...

phmaximus

hummm, i did it again, wife not happy

I was hapy with the buggy & with the success i had with brushless i was planing to make the bonzer brushless too... simple? yes... well no.
some how i ended up with a Traxxas revo platinum 3.3, humm i gess the bonzer has to wait again lol.

bluefisherking

Ha ha Good job!
Is it going to be brushless too?

RC-Hedgie

Vapextech are good for me as well, I am running a 4300mAh pack at the moment. you might want to check out their own website as I think you free P&P if order directly. I have had one fault which was fixed quickly so for me a good reliable supplier.

Vapextech.co.uk

JMobile24

Can someone help me since this is a Haiboxing thread?
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9002562/tm.htm

bluefisherking

The shock tower area that you circled in your picture is an integral part of the main chassis. You cannot replace it without replacing the main chassis, which is this part: Tamiya 50735 Tl01 A Parts (Chassis). You can find it on eBay (just search for "Tamiya 50735"), or plenty other places, e.g.:

http://goldstarstockists.net/live/ca...cf4e40905380d2

phmaximus

yeah i dont know? i think its $80 odd bucks just to get a motor mount/gearset. so may when the motor wears out i will shurly do it

jleeper

My new HBX arrived today so tomorrow me and my son can trash around together... I did find one thing, that not all Bonzer trucks are equal, and what you get in one box is not the same as what you get in another.... I bought my trucks from different ebay sellers and even though they both say HBX Bonzer on the box, they came with different documentation, different spare parts and of course different paint and tires. Mine is the Cross Tiger and his is the Very Hot Fire. Originally I figured it was just a paint and tire change difference, but the Cross Tiger had much better documentation/manual but fewer(different) spare parts...FWIW..

I'll add a photo later after tomorrow's play day.

jleeper

Well, today my son got to experience what happens when you run your truck full throttle straight on into a curb.  I'm actually surprised it wasn't hurt worse and at least it was still drivable afterwards.   He took out the front bumper and the plastic piece behind it sustained a crack.   Afterwards we headed to a grass area where there were no curbs and told him he could take my truck for a spin and I'll drive his....well he was walking with the antenna pointed down and guess what....snap.    Oh, well....  I have a little fixing to do now, not really all bad and hope to have them back in shape this weekend for more rippin'

magnat

Well Good news... I am gonna get back into Bonzering again....

Bonzilla is Ready just have to charge the Camera Bats and pray the suspension don't fall off again...

phmaximus

hey m8, welcome back

prontozuk

Hi guys,

I am a bit of a traditionalist.. (please don’t hate me for it) Was wanting to update the stock motor and was wanting people opinions on the follow ones.

team Associated Stockstar 27T 24 deg. Motor



Max. RPM - 33,200
Max. Torque - 145N/mm
Max. Power - 127.0W
Max. Efficiency - 70%
http://67.199.85.166/main/productdet...ory=5051.xxxxx

Tamiya Super Stock BZ 23T (off-Road) 53930

Max. RPM – 26,500
Max. Torque – 49mN.m
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53930

Tamiya Dirt Tuned 27T 53929

Max. RPM – 17,000
Max. Torque – 37.24mN.m
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53929



Thanks James

bluefisherking

Hi James,

The only one of those motors that I tried prior to going brushless was the Tamiya dirt tuned. Like a few others in this thread, I found that it worked quite well, but had a fairly short life - it got hot and quite soon the magic smoke was lost.

The other two have impressive torque figures, but would seem to me (guessing) to be too fast to run with a 19T pinion. As such you could find them geared too high, with no easy way of fixing that. (Although depending on the screw holes in the motor, you might be able to use a 16/17T pinion by picking odd motor mount hole positions).

I certainly don't hate anyone for being traditional :-) , but I am curious nevertheless to ask why you wouldn't want a brushless motor? Is it for waterproofing?

sunnymale

prontozuk I have tried all those motors myself and none of them lasted more than 6 minutes using 19t pinion. At the moment I use a Mtroniks Vision 600 motor that seems ok but drains battery really fast. I would agree with most on here that if you want to stay with brushed the best motor to use is the Graupner Speed 600 Race 7.2v and it requires no modification to chasis to fit.

Sunny

prontozuk

Yeah it is water thing and also a money thing... If I decide to upgrade to brushless then I have to upgrade radio gear as I have the bonzer with the radio and ESC together. At the moment I have to replace the spider gear in the rear diff as they chewed themselves out as well. So at the same time I might as well update the bearings... If I do all of it I might as well almost buy a new truck... $100 for 9T brushless ezrun, second hand controller and receiver $20 to $50 and bearings and spider gears $30 and also need new pinion as the one I have is sort pressed on the motor.

Thanks James

bluefisherking

I would guess that the first two motors you mentioned would be too much for the stock ESC/radio unit to handle.

prontozuk

I thought the Team Associated Stockstar would have been OK considering it is a 27T. I understand that the stock ESC can really only take down to a 23T...

bluefisherking

You might well be right - they just looked like they would demand a lot of current, going by the rpm and torque figures. But in any case, sunnymale seems to have destructively tested all three motors without good result...!