brendan1991

i have a rc10t with a mip gear box that the gears went out in all three gears and i dont know were to get them or if i should or can just put a brand new gear box and gears from a newer version if if any one knows wut would that newer version be to replace it or the best one thanks for answering

Barber420

My Feedback: (1)

I don't THINK the newer trannies with the 2.65:1 ratio will fit. I've never tried, but I doubt they'll work. I would just go online to ebay and search for an RC10T Stealth Tranny. I've never searched for them on there, but I'm sure there will be some for sale, at least once in a while. I'm surprised you managed to toast a stealth. How did you do it? If/When you do get a replacement, MAKE SURE it has BEARINGS, and if it doesn't go buy some for it. My Stealth has been getting beat on, with the slipper totally cranked down, for 17 years and it still looks like new inside!

Just checked ebay and found one for you. They must still make them, because it's a brand new kit with the black plastic. The item number for it is 300281998161. It's pricy at $68, but it comes with EVERYTHING! You may want to go to RC10.com and look in the parts section. It sounds like all you need is a diff, idler gear, and drive gear. It may be in your best interest to buy two new tranny halves too. Good luck.

brendan1991

hey do you have any tips for the gearing and motor or should i stay with the traxxas brushless system i think thats why the gears went out thanks ive been looking for 8 months now and finally found the parts

brendan1991

hey do you have any tips for the gearing and motor or should i stay with the traxxas brushless system i think thats why the gears went out thanks ive been looking for 8 months now and finally found the parts

Barber420

My Feedback: (1)

I've yet to put BL in mine, but I've heard from a lot of people that it should be fine. I'm going to put a Novak GTB 7.5 in mine. I think a liberal amount of grease probably helps things out, and make sure your slipper isn't too tight. I run my slipper locked up, but that's with a brushed 17t. With my 17t I run a 17t pinion and an 87t spur. It works great, but when switching to a BL system I'm sure I'm going to have to change it some and play around 'till I find another perfect gearing setup.

wasting money

On my T2, I run the Velineon system on 6.6V A123 batteries with 88/23 gearing. No problems with heat or stripped gears. Slipper is set tight, not much slippage if any. You might have started with bad gears or something?

Barber420

My Feedback: (1)

Could be, but you're only running 6.6v. That's not much voltage at all. I'm guessing at that level you're really not getting that much more speed and torque out of your BL setup than I am out of my Brushed setup. I run 7.2v and 8.4v in it. I would definitely leave the slipper at least a little loose if you're running a BL setup with 7.2, 7.4, 8.4, 11.1v.

califas

I just picked up a RC10 with an otherwise clean chassis with the exception of residue left by the previous owner duct taping the entire underside. The paint still looks good and there are hardly any scratches so I'm looking for a substance that will clean without damaging the chassis.

Goo Gone, WD-40, peanut butter, ... ? What would you recommend?

cumquat

i say just rub it of with your hand, it should come of very easly

Capgun_Slim

Hello everyone, great thread. I haven't posted in a while. My cousin to whom I was very close, passed away 2 days after his birthday in October 2008 at age 42 of diabetes. Everyone of course was devastated. I had never lost a person that close to me ever. Some of you know this feeling well, and others, not yet.

While walking around in a sad, surreal, dreamlike state helping my Aunt and Uncle move things out of his house a week later, we were going through his materialistic things. We had the task of sorting out what was to go to the dump, and what was to go to storage. Old Hot Wheels we used to play with when we were very little, various video games/consoles, etc.etc. I grabbed a box and asked permission from my Aunt and Uncle on whether I could have certain things, that meant a lot to me. Slowly the box filled. Towards the end of the cleanup, I was going through one last closet, when I saw it. His old 1st Gen. RC10.

The year was 1984, I was 14, my cousin 17. I watched him build it, and even helped a little. I was never good at that stuff, but I loved RC! He built my Tamiya Frog back then, and a Tamiya Subaru Brat a few years earlier, since as I said, I was not good at building or following instructions. We were never racers, just liked to bash! He and I spent countless hours having fun, bashing and breaking these things together. Of course he was always the one to repair them. I'd buy parts for my Frog with paper route money, and he would put it back together. I really don't know when it was that we left the RC Cars behind and moved on to bigger and better things in the way of hobbies, but it happens to all of us it seems. Though we never seem to leave it for good. I've always been hot and cold with RC over the years as I've gotten older.

Several years ago, I wanted to get into RC Planes, as they were going into electrics. I bought my first Slow Stick kit, servos, etc. and sat down at a makeshift work bench in my garage, and declared, "I am going to build and fly this plane!" If you're still reading this, I'll let your imagination wander on just how bad things went. But, I did prevail and having moved forward in RC Planes, I've built and flown successfully, more and more difficult aircraft. I'm now proficient in building things RC.

Which brings us back to the RC10. After taking the box of memories home that day, I put it in my garage. Not wanting to look at it, much less open it and go through it all again. Just hurt too much. My Aunt and I have grown closer after all this, and I recently decided to conquer my sadness and anger by going through that box.

I pulled out the RC10, the transmitter, and took a good look at what I had. Surprisingly, most everything is still there! No body, or motor though. Looks like he put in a Stealth tranny that he never told me about. I cracked it open, checked, cleaned and lubed everything, and it turns fine. I cleaned everything in and around the tub, as well as the tub itself. I'm going to restore this 10 back to it's former glory, including the stock body and paint scheme he chose. Or, at least from what I can remember the colors being. The economy has been horrid to everyone as of the last 9 months, me not excluded So, there is only a small budget allowed for this little project. I want to throw in a brushless system, but that's simply not going to happen for now, with my money situation.

So, all of this leads to my following questions.

1. I'm sticking to a brushed motor, and the ESC in it, is a Futaba MC 11B Full FET. What is the hottest motor I can run with this? A link would be greatly appreciated. Also, I need a Pinion Gear, a link would be great here too. It has a 48t Spur in it. I don't know what all number of toothed pinions are available, so try to keep it middle of the road, though a little more emphasis on top speed. Keep my low funds in mind here. I'm planning on running old school 7 and 8 cell NIMH hump packs I have.

2. Where's a good place, (good meaning cheapest) to get a stock body and wing?

cumquat

heres a body that will fit http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LX2697&P=SM
heres the motor i use http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXULR5&P=0
this pinionwill give you some speed but you can still get up to speed quickly http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEX22&P=7
the motor isnt the fastest but the speed control wont fry like it would if you used a motor with out enough turns

ElectricGuy007

I've started to strip mine down for a cleaning. It's pretty dirty. Probably put some fresh oil on the bearings etc..
I went ahead and mounted that stealth tranny also. I drove this car a couple months ago and it drives great.
I'll update with pics later on my progress.

ElectricGuy007

Here's a few pics of my progress, I took the shocks off for a massive cleaning then I'll refill them with 40wt oil.
Chassis has been cleaned also, now it's time to put it back together.

ElectricGuy007

Cleaned up for the shelf again

calvino

Wow, looking nice, what tires are you running on there?

ElectricGuy007

Proline holeshots rear, Dished wheels, One of the fronts is a silvertaper, and one ribbed on the other side. Not a winning setup just for the yard.

cumquat

i probably should get one of mine running. if i do ill use a stelth tranny instead of the stock 6 gear.

coolbean

I just dropped a Trinity Cobalt 2 9 turn double in my RC10T. I had to change the pinion from 18 teeth to 15 teeth to slow it down and give it a little more torque. But she is still pretty fast. Here is a video.

[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2XBcGKrePA&feature=channel_page]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2XBcGKrePA&feature=channel_page[/link]

Barber420

My Feedback: (1)

Last I checked, you can still buy new bodies from Associated. Suprisingly, they still sell/sold a lot of the original RC10 parts. Not so much for a 10T though.[&o] Anyhow, you need to get on that ship before it sails. Word on the street is that Associated is discontinuing the stocking, production, and selling of ALL vehicle parts that are no longer made. This means even B3 and T3 people need to beware! Sooner than later new "official" Associated parts for old school vehicles will not be available at all!!!!! I didn't believe this horrible rumor until I went to the website and discovered that many things have changed as far as looking up old school parts and numbers and the rumor was actually true!!!!!![X(][:@] I don't even think they really list any of the old parts online now, so you'd have to call them with part numbers and ask very specifically for certain things. Good luck in your quest to restore this great legend of RC. At least you have a part of your cousin that brings back fond memories to keep with you.

calvino

I know that thunder tiger (owns AE) has their 1/10 buggy/truck (electric) and they are actually the T3 platform . Also they re-make certain AE cars like their nitro stadium truck is just an RC10GT (non tub pan) relabeled... Prob a good thing I don't drive mine....

cumquat

are you sure it not ae who owns thunder tiger? that would make more sense.

Barber420

My Feedback: (1)

Yeah, I'm pretty sure AE owns Thunder Tiger or is one of several owners. AE's been around since the sixties I believe. Probably one of, if not the, oldest RC company around still. I don't know if you can get older than 3 series parts from Thunder Tiger, but if you could it'd be nice. I wouldn't trust that scenario though, and go and buy whatever you want/need RIGHT NOW from AE.

ElectricGuy007

Thanks for letting us know about AE discontinuing it's parts. Does that mean the bodies will be discontinued also?
Because I plan on picking up a few just in case, since they are only 12.99 on tower.
And I thought forever that most parts were discontinued anyhow.

Barber420

My Feedback: (1)

Almost all of the parts for the original 10T haven't been available for a while, but AE was still making/stocking RC10 parts, but made with black plastic. I would guess that this is because their WERE so many of them out there. As far as parts go, get 'em while the gettin' is good. I've already whorded a bunch of original white parts while they're cheap! Due to the economy their were several months there where I was gettting tons of good stuff for cheap. I got a rare Delta pan car and an Edinger RC10 for $70 a few months back!!!!!![X(] Guy didn't know what he had. If you're into the vintage AE stuff, it's still the best RC stuff out there in my opinion, get what you need NOW!

cumquat

i think they started in '63. they started out in slotcars, spacificly drag racers. they made the fastest one clocked at 80 mph or something like that.