Associated Prorally Questions
 

I recently picked up the Prorally from Associated and am loving it. I have a question regarding the motor. The first time I ran it, after about 5 minutes the motor was VERY hot to the touch. Hot to the point where you couldn't keep you hand on it. It also made the chassis hot as well to the touch. I was concerned since it hadn't been very long at all. Granted I did run it hard for those 5 minutes on pavement/grass but I didn't feel like it should get that hot, especially that quick. I put a fan on it and ran again last night, same thing. Thoughts?

I was also wondering what hop ups people are doing with this model. It seems like it's pretty much good to go but I was wondering. I ordered a set of sway bars to control the body roll and was wondering what else I might need. Thanks guys!

Welcome to RCU.

First thing I would do, stay away from anything that will drag on the chassis...grass. Depending on what type of grass one is talking about (too many variables), if the grass is touching your chassis, you're putting undue stress on your motor. You can try to reach a more comfortable temp by dropping down a couple of teeth on the pinion gear.

Just how hot is the motor?

IR Temp Gun
 

The easiest way to know if you need to change gears (literately :p) is to use some type of IR temp gun. If you're concerned about temps, then there is no reason not to get some form of IR thermometer to put in your RC arsenal. For around $12 you can have IR thermometer that will give you accurate temp. readings. Checking the temp halfway through a run to be sure the motor is below 180 degrees F. This is the comfort zone for most motors. At 180 degrees and above, most motors could be considered on the verge of meltdown. I used to use my fingers to tell if my motors were getting hot...not always an accurate reading :eek:. If your motor is at or near 180° F, I'd look at changing gearing with a smaller pinion.

I agree with Rusty, drop your pinion a tooth or two, and get an IR temp gun. An essential tool.

Hop ups? The sway bars are the only thing I could think of. If the front lip of the body is catching on stuff, trim the front lip of the body a little and raise the bumper height. Some people even trim off a little of the bumper foam on the bottom front.

You could open up some holes in the body to improve air flow. Using a body reamer, put a row of 3/8" holes in the front and rear windows. The motor fan should do all the cooling you need. If it's still too hot, it needs a gear reduction.

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lase...emperature+gun
This is the one that i use. cheap and tough. Also quite accurate, always within 5 degrees.

As far as gearing i try to gear for good heat management without a fan so that when its hot (80+) i can put on the fan and not have to worry. Ya you loose a tiny bit of speed but that's better than a fire or meltdown.

Now it's my turn to ask OP question or two. I'm glad to hear you're loving the ProRally. I know I could go and watch/read reviews on the platform (I already did) I just wanted another view on it.

Do the shocks give you any problems?
Any dislikes that come to mind...besides the heat issue?

I've been wanting the Associated ProSC for awhile now. I was gonna use the ProSC as a dual purpose chassis (SC & Rally), but I can't seem to find any used ones...for months I've been looking, and I can't even think about forkin' out $$$ for a new one at the moment. I've got some other SC stuff to keep me occupied while my search continues.

**Update** - I installed a CC fan on the motor. Using an IR heat gun, I have measure the temps right after 3-4 hard runs lasting about 15-20 minutes. Tried the runs on pavement, grass, and dirt. Each time, I was running between 110 and 115 degrees. Looks like the fan is really helping with the temps. Reedy said the temps on average are about 160-180, so I am good with this!

I haven't had any issues with the shocks but then again, I am pretty new to the RC game. I have noticed that they don't seem to have as much play as they did when I first got it, which I thought was weird. Surely it can't be time to lube them up ?

Has anyone had any trouble with the body rubbing and getting caught on the tires? I recently replaced the tires with a set of Proline Trenchers and I noticed that on braking, the shell is getting caught in the tires and making terrible noises. I trimmed the wheel wells out a little bit and it helped but I am also having issues with the rear of the shell popping up over the rear diffuser and making terrible sounds there also. Last night I went ahead and switched the front and rear bumpers to the "off-road" setting, so hoping that will help. I am trying not to keep trimming away the shell if I don't have to. Confusing, because the tires don't look that much bigger than the factory ones. Any other suggestions?

I don't understand your comment about the shocks " not having as much play". Shocks shouldn't have "play". They do require topping up with shock fluid once in awhile. No matter what, they do seep fluid over time. Not much, but a little.

Rally tires and Trenchers I doubt are the same size.

When I first got it and I would set it down, the chassis would briefly lower a little bit and then return to normal. Basically, just the shocks doing their job. I noticed recently that it doesn't do this, and the shocks seem stiffer/less soft than when I first got it, that's all.

For the trenchers its because pro line uses a very soft compound for that tire, so it balloons up huge with any speed (i have 4 sets of those, badlands are better for ballooning). I have my body trimmed super far on my slash for that exact reason. Shocks do need some attention here and there depending on the quality, but what your describing sounds pretty normal as the bladder at the top of the shock gets broken in. I usually add a small preload spacer once i notice my shocks are broken in (traxxas seems to do this the most as my kyosho didn't do this at all). Just mess with the pre loads until your happy with it. If that doesn't work then try a different spring type or a better shock set all together.

Your shocks are just breaking in. That's normal. Depending on how many packs you've put through it, the shocks could be down on fluid. Open them up to find out. Give the preload collars a few twists maybe.

Look up "belting tires" or "taping tires" on YouTube. Using duct tape on the INSIDE of the tires will keep them from ballooning.

My new servo came in yesterday. Went with the Savox 1258T. Are there any recommendations for an aluminum servo horn to complete the setup? Looks I just need to be looking for a 25T but I am not sure on what length I need.

Has anyone found an upgraded aluminum servo mount that fits this chassis? I have found quite a few but I am not sure if they fit the Prorally. I figured while I have everything taken apart, I might as well upgrade the horn and mount. Maybe even the steering parts?

25 T is correct for Savox. As for length, just measure the stock one.

Why do you want to replace the servo mount? Is it flexing? Same question on the steering parts. Aluminum is good in the right spots, but you don't want to go too crazy with it. They use plastic for a reason: weight.