boostoman

I just got my TURNIGY 1:4 Scale Brushless GoKart ARR from Hobby king.

Below are the details of the extra items I orderded with the Kit:
-Turnigy Brushless ESC 60A w/ Reverse prog. (v2.2)
-Hobby King GT-2 2.4Ghz 2Ch Tx & Rx
-Turnigy nano-tech 2200mah 2S 35~70C Lipo Pack
-Turnigy nano-tech 2200mah 3S 45~90C Lipo Pack

I also ordered an upgrade motor to try it out later:
-S2848-4370 Brushless Inrunner (4370kv)

spare parts i also ordered:
-Front Baffle Assembly - Go-Kart
-Steering Assembly Complete - Go-Kart

The kit looks amazing with the carbonfiber chassis and the rubber wheels.
but keep in mind there is no instruction with the kit. but the setup is very staight forward.



the packaging is great.










The tires are really rubber and soft. they provide a dumping affect when driving on rough surfaces.




The Trunigy ESC is a great ESC with an On-Off switch with his very useful. but there are two diods dangling out of the ESC witch is really weird




the battry tray will be able to hold a much larger size battry . in the pic is a 2200 2S Nanotech





there wasnt a location for the antena so i taped it to one of the side pods


after going out on a test run the car was really fast and i wasnt getting any traction from the tires so i decided to add weight on the back bumper (~130g 2200 2S lipo) and it made all the diffrance with alot more grip for the ecelaration and it will less likly to spin becuase of the rear tire grip.


Size comparision with my OFNA 1:8 scale nitro Buggy


more details of my build coming up and vids. let me know if you have any questions.

The Collector1

My Feedback: (2)

Thats cool, I like mine alot, there is a thread on this http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10173582/tm.htm

Lars from Norway

This is definitively a "want one very much"-car Nice thread by the way!

boostoman

Ok i have been driving around with the kart with a 4,400 2S battery (2x 2S 2,200 in parallel using this plug) and its really fast and i'm getting around 18min of driving of because of the speed you need to be very careful with the throttle or the kart will spin out even while its on the move.. I will be installing an plane gyro from HK (Turnigy TG-380 Aeroplane Gyro - Channel Controlled $17) which i have so see if i could improve the handling.

my main grip with this kart is the steering servo . the stock one will break easily if you hit a curb. but the plastic piece that's suppose to act as a "servo saver" broke by just a small hit. I wish hobby king can replace the plastic piece with a metal springy piece so that it will not brake and take away the bump shock from the servo.
after super glueing the plastic servo saver on the alloy holder i went out for another run and now the servo got destroyed. so i decided to change over the servo to an HD metal gear servo 10KG which was alot stronger and it was able to handle small bumps. but after a hard hit the MG servo striped .....

this is an amazing kart with loads of power may be a little too much. I will mess around with the ESC to see if I can set it for slow start maybe i will get more traction from the rear wheels. I will also add more weight at the rear of the kart so that the rear wheels will get more traction.

I will keep everyone updated (vid coming soon)

boostoman

fter trying out a few things with trying to sort out the steering servo issues. I came up with a simple solution that once the plastic piece of the steering saver brake these are the following things you can do.

first thing replace the existing servo with a metal gear servo preferably a 10-12KG servo (im using a Power HD 120MG its only $10 for a 12Kg servo)

when installing the new servo make sure there isnt any binding of the servo are with the servo holder. i filed down the servo arm abit to prevent it from touching the mounting




after that I glued the broken plastic servo saver piece together for ease of re-installation


then i got a coke can and opened it up to use the thin tin on the can to make a lip at the bottom and lower part of the steering servo saver. this extra lip will be used to keep the rubber bangs in place not to slide out of it's place.


this is a view of the plastic piece on the servo saver:


Below are a pic with the rubber bands installed i used 3 rubber bands and made sure they were twisted relatively tight around the plastic piece is so that when doing high torque steering the steering will not move. but if you hit something the rubber band will absorber the shock instead of the servo gears :

boostoman

After I resolved the steering issue i moved to investigating how to improved the traction on the rear tires. which because of the power the kart wasnt getting enough even on clean dust free tarmac.

I initially strapped 6 AA used battery (weight around 120g) on the rear bumper. this improved the grip but because the rear bumper was around 4-5cm away from the main chassis the car span out alot easier because of how the weight distribution was set.

I went to a tire shop and got the weights that was used to balance out car wheels. these are lead weights which have adhesive stickers on them. well i asked for used ones ones since they were free and I used my own double sided tape.

I taped together a 140g block of lead weight and installed it right behind the driver seat were there is a large iodized aluminum area perfect area to stick the weight and the cars weight distribution was alot better than weight hanging out of the rear bumper.

when going out for a test run this improved the traction on the rear wheel and i was able to get full acceleration from a stand still without the kart spinning out. and because of the extra grip i was able to get a higher Watts reading 350W!!

all this is with the a 4,400 mAh 2S battery on the cart with the hobbyking Watt meter installed

boostoman

after a few runs i inspected the kart and noticed that the Velcro battery straps under the kart were rubbing on the ground so covered the two straps with duct tape.




also to secure the driver so that he doesn't move around i velcroed the "bum" of the driver to the seat.





I also installed the gyro on the kart at the front near the drivers legs in the center of the kart. it helped a lot with controlling the kart in straight light speeds since if the kart drift abit it auto corrects it. i haven't tried to drift yet but i can imagine that it would hold that kart in a drift

378

My Feedback: (4)

That thing is awesome. I'm especially loving all the mods. Homebrew servo saver, weight balance, etc etc. These are things to keep in mind should I ever get a chance to grab one of the Kyosho nitro karts.


We need onboard footage! Also, might I suggest instead of velcroing the driver in you build him a seatbelt?

boostoman

387,

thanks im glad you liked my mode , just to get it clear this is a HOBBYKINGTURNIGYGOKARTNot a Kyosho,

the reason i didnt put a seat belt on the driver is becuase really life gokarts dont have seatbelts on them. the driver is more or less laying down and holds himself with the stearing wheel.

vids of the car is coming up soon

378

My Feedback: (4)

I know. I was just talking to myself.

They don't have velcro on their bums either

KENDOG689

You need to find a concrete parking lot with sun on it and it will stick.My Kyosho 1/4 kart spun all the time and found the right place to run it and was nice.Rubber tires need a certain surface.

kaiser01

that thing is awesome.

i <3 turnigy.

ElectricGuy007

If it breaks you might as well buy another, and use the broken one for spare parts...
Not much ya can do with something you can really get parts for..[:-]

rubber_junkie

nice! great price too [8D] wheres the vid?

boostoman

Hobby king actually have a lot of different spares for this kart, also very reasonably prices

here is a link to all the parts

 http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?idCategory=412

wave waker

here's what i did in my go kart.

1. Duck taped the whole bottom before the first run, i hate to scratch the carbon fiber bottom.

2. put a notch on the servo horn because it's binding to the servo mount when turning left or use tapered servo horn.

3. loctite loctite loctite, but still a steering link screw came loose after few run.

4. i'm going to dye the plastics, i'm thinking of what dye color.

5. paint the driver, but i have a back up driver took it from my ricky carmichael rc motorcycle.

6. i have the velineon motor, esc and lipo batt taken from slash 4x4 waiting to be installed...more power..

ww

boostoman

wave waker,

how is the grip on your kart did you need to add any extra weight?

wave waker

hi boostoman, i have that tendency to spin -out from time to time especially running it wot in straight, but to be fair with the gokart, it was the first time i ran it.. So far i'm not really worried about it because it is not tweaked and tuned yet.

what i'm thinking what makes it spin are:

1. the weather that time was really cold so the black top that i'm running on was cold and i couldn't get a good grip from the tire..i do believe these rubber tires will give a good grip in a warm surface, plus lower cg and wide stance this will be a blast.

2. my steering linkage was sloopy at that time because one of the screw was coming off.

3. i didn't change the steering sensitivity in my radio. i just grabbed it from my other model.

4. my toe-in/out and camber was not checked.

5. the gokart balance was not checked, i was using traxxas 8 cell nimh which is huge.

6. i need to change my driving style[:-], i'm not use to drive a car with solid rear axle this is more tricky to drive, it's very different from driving a car with rear differrential due to with solid rear axle, the rear wheels rotation is always equal so during turning it's more harder to make a smooth turning arc compare to a car with rear differential, because the inner wheel turns slower and the outer wheel turns faster to keep the turning arc smooth... this will be good with drifting car

just my 2cents..

ww

boostoman

wavewaker,

thanks for the info, I will try out the kart in an area were it's less dusty and see if there is a diffrance.

keep us updated with how u can improve the grip,

using my RC plane experiances i decided to measure the center of gravity (CG) of the kart (the center distance between the front wheel nut and the rear nut ~13cm) and start to balance the kart . I have added some weight in the front of the kart this way the weight is distibuted euqly around all 4 wheels. but is slightly rear heavy for obvios reasons. GRIP!!

will update you with the outcome.

wave waker

how much weight did u put on it?..let us know what the best cg and balance...

i am dyeing the plastic right now, seems like the plastic is resisting from dye, so far it's been 25 minutes boiling....

maybe i can test run tom. i'm going to my friends house for super bowl and he has a full basement which is empty, not enough space for straightaway but enough for drifting and twist.

ww

Lars from Norway

Well, maybe it really is plastic then, and not nylon? I don't have any experience with dyeing, but at least i have heard its got to be nylon to soak in the colour.

wave waker

guys, after dyeing the plastic with brown RIT dye it end up kinda olive green or military green[:-],,although i'm not expecting this color but for me it's better than the white color.. I'm not sure if my dyeing procedure went wrong or it's just the plastic reaction to the dye..

btw, i'm painting the driver now,, sorry no pics yet..


more to come..

ww

boostoman

wave waker,

why did u just spray paint the driver? it would of been alot easier than dieing him.

boostoman

I have just done measurements of the battery compartment on the cart and the dimensions are 47mmx140mm which the ZIPPY Flightmax 5700mAh 2S3P 25C saddle pack will fit perfectly on it.

wave waker

nice hard case batt Boostoman..i have a 11.1 4000mah turnigy but kinda worried to hook it.

btw, i just came back from local hobby store and saw the Thunder tiger gokart selling for $179 and in my opinion if this thing compare to Turnigy gokart, the Thunder tiger gokart looks like a toy[]...

ww