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Custom made 1:10 RWD solid axle Escort MK2

Old 05-28-2017, 04:17 AM
  #301  
Frederik_b
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Tonight I made the second wheel tub vertical piece, and also I made the rounded shape of the tub for the first one pretty pleased! The brazing is pretty harsh but I am a complete brazing noob so... lol Hope you like the little progress!

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I will make an inside wall of the same metal under the rear side windows, so that is why I made the outer piece with all those tabs ready to braze to that future piece. Like in the reference picture below. Hope you like the little progress!


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Last edited by Frederik_b; 05-28-2017 at 04:26 AM.
Old 05-30-2017, 02:10 AM
  #302  
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Last night I made some progress on.. don't know how to call it.. how do you call the rear door cards on a 2 doors car ??


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On 1:1 most of the center section of that panel piece is cut out and filled with what I guess is.. automotive cardboard lol might just do that and cutout the center to save some weight when the pieces are done. Still need to work the chassis a bit so the tub fit better but I'm getting there! Sorry for the bunch of pics with little progress but that's how I do it, the turtle will get there!



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Old 05-30-2017, 02:10 AM
  #303  
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double post again
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Last edited by Frederik_b; 06-01-2017 at 02:59 PM. Reason: double post
Old 05-30-2017, 07:18 PM
  #304  
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I am just back from the garage doing the other side tub, and cutting the side plate to shape. Car starting to look more put together, it is nice to see the chassis have some inside space with the sides, should look neat with the cage attached to it. Did a more solid brazing job on this side, but the sheetmetal warped quite a bit, had to force it to shape a bit. Oh and the round is slightly not symmetrical between the two tubs.. but so many things are crooked on this car, still happy with it so this is not going to bother me! On to a few pics:



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And I am pretty happy with the new future shocks location, they will be muuuch further apart and this will help the handling a lot, I probably won't even need a sway bar. The next pic you can see the distance difference between the shocks turrets I just made and the current shocks location. Previously with the shocks so inwards, the suspension was very soft for body roll, and not so soft for bumps. It should also help slide instead of wanting to roll over!


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Gd'nite!

Fred
Old 05-30-2017, 07:18 PM
  #305  
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double post
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Last edited by Frederik_b; 06-01-2017 at 02:58 PM. Reason: double post
Old 03-22-2019, 03:49 PM
  #306  
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Made some progress on this, and even started painting the chassis !


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And a bit of oven at 60c to get it to cure fully faster. It's been a week and I can still mark the paint with my fingernails!


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Old 12-16-2020, 05:33 PM
  #307  
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Some update of the recent progress! Well not so recent, like over a year hahaha

Here I started assembling even if the paint was not 100% hard. I could see the bolts work the paint, but I kept assembling anyways. The front part with the steering and servo mounting is quite a pain for assembly, you need to remember to put this before that, and there are screws and nuts that are very hard to put in place. And also when the cage is in, it is very hard to work in the small space! For instance bolting the frames to floor from the inside.

I put nyloc nuts almost everywhere this time since it is likely one of the last time I assemble it for now.


Ok now for a bunch of pics They might be out of sequence but somehow imgur decided to upload them in a random order (I'm guessing depending on their size) :


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Suspension, sitting and fully compressed (shocks bottomed out)

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Now that it is painted I realize I have not finished the front panel where the lights are etc. I'll do that later, but it'll be bolted anyway (not soldered).


I was thinking it would be cool tho have the body in parts, like opening hood or dismountable front fenders and doors. But that would be pretty complicated to keep all aligned, and I'm not sure I'm want to dive into that kind of stuff. It would make more sense to make an minimalist interior and then paint the body. Just not sure what type of paint these retroracing bodies are good with. I'll have to reasearch again, I think it needs to be waterbase to not make the body brittle.

Left to do:

- white caulking for the various holes and cracks in chassis
- body mounting
- batteries mounting (the separated saddle packs 2s)
- route wires for motor and steering servo through firewall
- front disc brakes (and maybe rear)
- mud guards
- Paint body, bumpers and wing (need to find a way to attach them maybe I'll just glue them on?)
- Fake engine on motor? The motor is pretty big in the engine bay so it will be hard to make it look legit since the engines are often pretty small in these! But there is also often the 4 individual intakes that poke to the side of the engine, so maybe I could do that to hide more of the motor underneath.

Hope you guys like it!

Fred
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Old 12-16-2020, 05:34 PM
  #308  
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Then decided to get rid of all the holes and cracks (misadjusted parts!) in the floor, so I can get it closer to run in the dirt without the dirt making it inside everything. So I used this stuff which is an exterior windows caulking, it is a leftover from rain gutters install I made on the garage, pretty much the same white as the chassis, and while at it I also put some on the solders where water and dirt would have started some rust in no time. Oh and I also used a piece of the leftover gutter to block the hole in the driveshaft tunnel lol Had to make a hump in it since the driveshaft was hitting when compressing the suspension.

And again while at it I added some at places where I felt it would look nicer to have a seam welded look, instead of a "parts bolted together" look, such as in the engine bay between the parts. The stuff can be removed if needed, but I don't plan to undo the basic chassis parts anyway. I could have added some to the frame rails too, maybe that would be over the top though? Here are some pics, it is pretty small and hard to make smooth caulking with 1:1 scale fingers, but looks kind of ok I think!


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Next I need to bolt the cage back on, bolt the tranny support (currently sits loose), and then make some foam holders so I can put my 2 parts lipo saddle pack battery on the floor without having it moving around everywhere.
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kistner (12-17-2020)
Old 12-16-2020, 05:35 PM
  #309  
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I did run it in the dirt! Made a quick simple course in the driveway and tried to control the thing. It is quite a handful! But getting better at it (the last practice non on film I was driving better!)

My 8yo son was filming with my phone, sometimes it is not very stable but he was pretty good for a first time filming something moving so erratically! lol

The paint got chipped pretty bad under the car, but meh I guess that's what you get for actually driving the car!


Old 12-16-2020, 05:36 PM
  #310  
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Some pictures of the undercarriage body damage, only paint damage in fact. The rocks were a bit too big to go and drift around the first time, before I made a track with the broom, removing the bigger rocks (10mm rocks means 10cm scale rocks lol!) And the paint did not adhere very well on the galvanized steel used for the floor, it was peeling away as I was removing the electrical tape that holds the body in place

Also the interior ends up full of rocks, for that I plan to add some rubber pieces at the fenders, trimmed to fill the gap between the body and chassis. Also you can also see in the undercarriage pic where I ran the motor wires in the transmission tunnel lol I thought it would be neater than drilling big holes in the firewall and wires all around the cabin. So they are under the car, and ESC is in the trunk. I'll post pics of the interior soon.




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Old 12-16-2020, 05:36 PM
  #311  
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Well the driving is not on point, spinning out all the time (I was using hard rubber tires to test on tarmac). But it is a cool spot to practice, a long semi-straight and inclined stretch and then a slow speed turn to drift. I think I'll go back and use that location when I am ready to do vids that actually look nice lol!


Old 12-16-2020, 05:38 PM
  #312  
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I removed the Toyota logo on the 3d printed engine, and put some color on it. Still need at least one coat on the head but looks kind of cool I think! I tried to grind down the underside of the motor to make it sit lower in the engine bay, but there is not a lot of meat before I reach the bottom of the cavity between the two valve cover... Do you think I could downsize to a 380 motor and not have it overheat from the weight? I am not looking at crazy power, more like scale power lol Maybe with the torque limitation on my Castle ESC, with a brushless 380 sized I would be ok?

Anyways, on to the engine pics:

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And also since I have sourced a large sheet of black Sintra (similar to Komacel), I got started on a dash. I don't yet have all the tools to work it, for now a big yellow Olfa construction knife, a piece of very fine sandpaper (too fine), large and small dremel sanding drum, a dremel sherical metal bit and some Gorilla Gel glue. I would need some mini files and other grit sandpaper, and a smaller blade to make it a bit easier. But not too bad of a start I think! Plus it is black and already looks a bit like alcantara leather lol!

Some reference pics, a carbon fiber Escort dash to go in group 4 racing cars, and an actual interior pic:

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I don't have much pics of the process, but I just sandwitched about 5 or 6 pieces and started dremeling.

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Then carved out the under part and the inside of the cluster the best I could with my dremel bits:

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The dash does not quite go low enough, in the reference pic there is an additional piece below the cluster (same height as the steering column). Maybe I'll skip that one if I go for the group 4 interior look.

Also started to think of some seats, I want to find a good balance of simple design since I'm a noob, but also ok looking. And good news is the two 1S separate lipo packs are just about the right size to be hidden where the seats should be. I thought they'd be too big or to forward, but from reference pics they'll be ok!
Old 12-16-2020, 05:38 PM
  #313  
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So I have not worked on seats yet, but there was something with the motor sitting just a bit too high to have a realistic fake engine position (it would touch the hood!). That and the fact the 540 sized motor has too much power anyway for dirt driving, I bought a cheap Tamiya 380 sized motor to try and make the motor lower, it is much smaller!

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I had to make a small adapter plate (out of sintra since I was really lazy and wanted to try mounting it to the tranny). It will likely overheat pretty easily, but it was cheap and I wanted to try, anyway I am always limiting the throttle on the radio settings to make it more driveable. So I guess we'll see if it melts I also have a Castle ESC that I can configure for current limit, I guess that could save the motor too.

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Now the motor sits at a much nicer height! ::2thumbs


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Old 12-16-2020, 05:39 PM
  #314  
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So I finished mounting the 380 sized motor, put batteries in and took it for a ride at the park See how small compared to a stock motor.







It did not go very well, it overheated severely after a few minutes drifting in the gravel. I was not really surprised, I thought for the 6$ they asked for the motor I could just try it. It did not actually burn in flames, but it overheated so much that the magnets got very weak and loss a ton of power. It had decent power for drifting in the gravel initially, but could not handle it for a long time. So I undid the front half to extract the motor, and put back the Tamiya Sport tuned.








And while at it I actually attached the tranny with nuts instead of just a bolt with tape






Went for a ride with the Sport tuned, and I overheated that one too! Maybe I was just a bit to eager on the throttle. I have undone the front half again and I'm in the process of installing the brushless Castle 3800kv, I plan to configure a limit torque to try and avoid overheating. What do you guys think? The car is probably near 4.5 lbs currently. Is the 3800kv able to handle this safely? I'm on 2s lipo saddle packs.







Video of the ride with the Tamiya motor:


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Old 12-16-2020, 05:40 PM
  #315  
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So now that I overheated the Tamiya sport tuned motor, I installed the castle 3400kv 4 pole motor. I had to drill a hole through the firewall to pass the motor wires and also the servo cable while at it. Much cleaner! The motor wires used to run under the car along the transmission tunnel, and back up in the car behind the bumper (there is no actual bumper yet lol).

It is pouring rain now so I can't really go try it out.. But I also have a problem setting up the current limit on the castle ESC. It needs to perform a kV test before I can activate the torque limit, but the test does not run correctly.. I will try some more today.

Edit: I also added a heatsink I had laying around, and I am pondering the idea of cutting away the grille and making it functional, not sure from which material. I have some grille material but it is not the right type for this, Escorts have grilles with horizontal lines, mine is diamond shaped... Also by the way the MK2 body is now cracked, I think my son hit me at some point with the lunchbox or with the other Tamiya truck. With metal behind the body, you can't really hit something hard haha So I guess it is now set that the MK2 will be the beater body and the MK1 will be the display one!


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Edit 2: I was just able to do the torque limit test, I had the theottle epa not set to 100% and it is required for the test. I set the torque to minimum as a first test. Also I cut the two small openings below the grille, but then thought it will not be sufficient, so I went and cut the whole grille off. I think it did not look very scale at all anyway, at some point I can remove what is left and put a complete grille with working headlights.

Now air should flow pretty good! With that and the brushless with torque limit, overheating should be solved.

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Old 12-16-2020, 05:41 PM
  #316  
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Small update! I did some sintra work, I wanted to try doing some good enough seats. Since the batteries are two 1s cells one each side of the transmission tunnel, I am making seats that will somewhat hide them. The batteries are a bit bigger than ideal scale wise to hide under the seats, but the seats are not completely out of proportions I think. Maybe just a tad too high and small.

I formed a bit with a propane torch lol now that's some precise heat modulation (not!)

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Then glued double thickness sides roughly cut to shape

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And started carving a shape in the double layer to make it a bucket:

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Looks pretty good in there I think!

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And then I realized I forgot the holes for the seatbelts, as in the reference Sparco seat I found on Google

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I enjoyed it, not too much waiting on the glue to set, and more carving with the dremel. Doing an interior on the Hilux, it gets long waiting for parts to cure. I am using Gorilla glue gel which was recommended for this material here, but it does not dry all that fast. Maybe I'm using too much of it? I feel like if I put less it will be too weak. It would be cool if the glue would set quickly and be ready to work, cut and grind few seconds layer but that's not the case. So I glue a piece and then go work on something else.

Next should be a steering. Not sure what I can use for the actual steering with proper diameter (don't really want to make one out of a sheet of sintra lol)

Thanks for looking!

Frederik
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kistner (12-17-2020)
Old 12-16-2020, 05:41 PM
  #317  
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So I started with a properly shaped blank and drilled some eyeballs, cut a grille opening:


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Searching for a material for the grille pieces, I found tie wraps just about the right size, but realized the plate was not deep enough to add a grill surrounding that would not poke out (tie wraps were just a tad wide). So I shimmed with an additional layer.

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I also used the same black tie wraps to do the headlight surround, glued and held with another tie wrap And then glued them to the thing, and added a center post to help hold the grille pieces later on.

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Then started adding tie wraps one at a time, wait for the glue to set enough to do the next.. long process, but at least I don't have to cut each stripe manually! I'm pretty sure I could not cut the stripes even enough for a nice look.

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I'll do some more tonight. It's a shame the tie wraps are not a tad longer, I'll have to add small pieces at the top to make the surrounding pieces meet in the center. There is a slight angle pointing forward in the grille so each piece is cut at the center.

Fred
Old 12-16-2020, 05:42 PM
  #318  
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Originally Posted by Caprinut View Post
Think they will be M series M60 rally tires.
Wheelbase will be 239mm so pretty much spot on for 1:10
Funny these are the exact tires I run in the back of mine!

So I decided the grille really needed the small pieces on the sides, glad I put them it looks nicer! And I put a small blank oval to mimick a ford logo.


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Old 12-16-2020, 05:43 PM
  #319  
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So here is another small update with too many pics for not that much progress lol



I made some brackets to locate and hold the batteries in place. Still need to add a top plate attached to the tunnel to hold them down inside of their bracket.


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And here is a view of how nicely the big ESC just fits under the dash:


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And I put back the parts Preston (Trini) did for me back a couple years ago to see how it looks with the new grille:



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Old 12-16-2020, 05:44 PM
  #320  
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I got a bit closer to painting by actually installing the bumpers and wind with bolts instead of tacky dots :laughing: I just used M2 bolts all around, had to shim to get the right angle. And I put a small block under the hood to prevent the grille from going inwards, so I have bolts only at the bottom.


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Also this summer I noticed the car was sending a whole lot of gravel inside the car (from around the fenders and mostly at the back, since the bumper area acts as a shovel to catch everything flying).

So I used some pieces of foam cut to shape and superglued them at the right spots to make a tight fit with the body. And in the rear I used an old bike air tube piece. Not pretty but you can't see it when the body is on


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And a couple shots with the bumper and wing properly fitted:

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Now need to find proper paint that is not chemically too harsh on the plastic. It is not lexan, I think it is soda bottle type of plastic, PET or PETG not sure how they call it? I read you should not paint these retracing bodies with lexan paint or they become very brittle.

Looking for some water based but I'm not sure where I can find water based spray paint? And clear coat I could apply on top of it? I don't aim for a super shiny perfect paint, I just don't want it to be flat looking like house walls latex paint lol



Edit: I have just found water based spray paint at De Serres (craft supplies place in Quebec) so I ordered 2 cans of white and one can of black. Just noticed they are only 100g, hopefully that's enough for the whole body in white. There was nothing like clearcoat in that series so I hope it is going to be somewhat shiny!


https://www.deserres.ca/en/dsaero?gc...SABEgJIEvD_BwE
Old 12-16-2020, 05:44 PM
  #321  
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The front windows always bothered me with how they had a huge window trim at the bottom, making the window look much smaller than what it should, so I took the knife and removed what I did not like. I will see later if I keep it windows down look, or if I glue some new windows from inside.



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And then I proceeded to mask it and give it a first coat of paint from the inside You can see how I trimmed the window, and while at it I also reduced the width of the B pillar which was also too chubby. Once the inside dries a bit I'll re-mask the windows from the outside and give the outside coat.



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It is only one coat but I had to mock it up on the chassis I'm sorry I should probably wait until more is done to show you, it is not very opaque at all and just a first inside coat, but it's pretty exciting to finally put some paint And the opened window is kind of cool to see the inside better.


The paint is definitely very matte on the inside... Not sure what I'll to to give it some shine. What clear coat has chances to work with water based paint, and not chemically react? Guess I'll do some testing on the scrap windows.



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Old 02-11-2021, 02:40 PM
  #322  
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Made some progress on the body details and interior.

-Put some clear on the paint
-Black trim around windows
-door handles, painted bumpers and wing
-detailed the dash
-Put some sintra (the black plastic) pieces in the rear to block trunk access from inside, and also a rear dash (name?) panel, on which the magnets for holding the body are.
Also put magnets at the base of the windshield to hold the body. But it holds pretty snug already from the foams in the fenders, just needed something to hold it down a bit.

The seats are not in these pics since they attach on top of the batteries and I don't leave the lipos in it all the time










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Old 08-11-2021, 06:47 PM
  #323  
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Soooo I did not post much lately but did made some progress. I made me some mirrors


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And the other new thing, I just bought an RC helicopter project for cheap, and it came with a gyro. Decided to try it on the steering Seems like it will work nicely. I put it behind the dash. Also I tried to run the wires as hidden as possible.







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Also I made some little wipers



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Cut some blades and pivot arms



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Then glued a piece of paper clip into a small thinner recess in the arm (buffed the paperclip at an angle on the blade side so you don't really see the end, it kind of melts into the blade..)





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Now some before and after! Fills a void I think! Used to look a bit like a too high lower eyelid Name:  sbglolz.png
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And a video of the helicopter gyro I put in to help drive on loose gravel, It looks like it reacts nicely





​And here is a slightly better quality video than the previous ones, and the first one where the car is actually painted and mostly complete 🙂 I put a bit less torque limit on the ESC (Castle) so now it has more starting power than the last (not filmed) run, but when the power comes in it can go sideways pretty quick! There is also a gyro in this video, helps a bit for the fast slides over this uneven terrain! This is the terrain I like to run, very fine gravel, but there is a bit too much pine needles lol Hope you like it!



Fred

Last edited by Frederik_b; 08-11-2021 at 06:52 PM.
Old 08-24-2021, 02:17 PM
  #324  
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That thing can move!!!! this was an epic build. Congrats to took it all the way to the end

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