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Help identify this chassis?!

Old 09-27-2013, 10:42 AM
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Default Help identify this chassis?!

Hello RCU fam......i just ran into this touring chassis and i have no idea whatso ever what brand it is.
Old 09-27-2013, 12:21 PM
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I don't know what "brand" it is, but there are a ton of manufacturers that make that exact same style and design. Tamiya, Associated, Madspeed, HPI, Vaterra, Traxxas and a few more have all made chassis of that same design at one time or another, and a few still do.
Are you interested in buying that particular chassis? If so, I would counsel you to save your $$ and get one that is for the most part, complete, unless you can find parts for that chassis, once it's identified, as many manufacturers not only discontinue some of their model line, they also discontinue making spare parts for the models that they discontinue.

That is a major concern for many that run across older chassis as you have here. The price for it may seem attractive, but to get it back on the road, it may cost more than you're willing to spend, not be able to be reconstructed, because parts are no longer available, or it isn't worth the expense.
Old 09-27-2013, 04:03 PM
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HPI E10
I can tell from that crappy little shaft that spins the rear diff as the EB10 (I had one that I threw in the trash can) used the same piece
Also the screw holes are in the same exact positions on the bottom shot

IMO it is not worth the amount in parts you would need to get it up and running as the chassis wasn't that good. Its also still sold for $190 complete RTR with a body(a Tamiya TT01e would be better IMO).

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Old 09-27-2013, 04:06 PM
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Thanx ToraKitsu but i've been researching for hours since this original post and i found that the HPI E10 has tons of Hop Up parts for this particular chassis. Although i haven't found any all silver or black aliminum parts just the same old purple,this is very close to what i want to build.
Old 09-27-2013, 04:08 PM
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SyCo_VeNoM it feels a little crappy but i think im going to work with it and see how far i can push it but you're definately right it feels crappy.
Old 09-27-2013, 04:15 PM
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You will need a lot of work as the rear had a habit of snapping off.
Also you are limited to brushed motors as brushless will liquify the gears (I tried it) as they are plastic(with no metal options)...
The buggy(diff tires longer arms, and a diff bumper, and body rest was the same) I put over $150 in after market parts trying to make it better, and ended up throwing $350 out into the trash can literally after 2 runs as it snapped chassis's on both runs.

But if you are still willing here is a thing I seen some people do to cause the chassis to stop snapping they run 2 metal rods from shock tower to shock tower, and set them really rigid so it doesn't flex at all. There are pics of it in the E10 thread, but most those people gave up on the thing.
Old 09-27-2013, 04:37 PM
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SyCo_VeNoM wow glad to know that i need to reinforce the chassis and the E10 forum.....you're a genius!
Old 09-27-2013, 05:00 PM
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To be quite honest, SyCo is right, and one thing to give serious consideration to, IF you are going to plunk any amount of money on it is, the E10 chassis tub is BRITTLE. Like bump it into something ONE TIME brittle.

I had, once upon a while back, and updated model of the one in your pics, and the first time I took it out, it ran over a crack in the concrete I ran it on, and upon inspection at home, I found a crack large enough to toss the chassis tub. Needless to say, I didn't repair the chassis, upon finding out that this was not an aberration, but the norm for the E10, so I tossed it. The whole thing. I then chalked it up to a learning experience, and began to study everything about a chassis, before I purchased. I have not been disappointed since.

Friendly advice, and it's up to you, but I would move on to something actually worth the time and money.
Old 09-27-2013, 05:27 PM
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ToraKitsu sounds good....im pretty good at general fabrication so im going to search different options on reinforcing the chassis....you guy are great!
Old 09-27-2013, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by ToraKitsu
To be quite honest, SyCo is right, and one thing to give serious consideration to, IF you are going to plunk any amount of money on it is, the E10 chassis tub is BRITTLE. Like bump it into something ONE TIME brittle.

I had, once upon a while back, and updated model of the one in your pics, and the first time I took it out, it ran over a crack in the concrete I ran it on, and upon inspection at home, I found a crack large enough to toss the chassis tub. Needless to say, I didn't repair the chassis, upon finding out that this was not an aberration, but the norm for the E10, so I tossed it. The whole thing. I then chalked it up to a learning experience, and began to study everything about a chassis, before I purchased. I have not been disappointed since.

Friendly advice, and it's up to you, but I would move on to something actually worth the time and money.
Lol the off road buggy version did the same hit the little divit in the side walk CRACK it was FWD


Hell look at what the toeque of the insanely powerful 35T motor did to the chassis(I'm being extremely sarcastic)

For the record I kept running it after it became FWD (why it got so scratched up)
I tried dumping tons of cash in then the crown gears in the diff stripped (or more like it turned to goo)
I rebuilt it let my nephew drive it 10 seconds later in it did the same thing rear snapped off after one divot. Took shocks, and the electronics off threw it in the trash can.

And note this was the version made for offroad, I can't even remotely imagine the on-road variants brittleness
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Old 09-27-2013, 07:40 PM
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I'm not at all sure why HPI has never corrected this problem with the plastic compound they use for that chassis, and seemingly, that chassis only.

The on-road one is no different, really. look at it sideways and it cracks. This is the biggest reason why I can never recommend it, even as a beginner. With "el cheapo" chassis like madspeeds being thrown all around the market, I just don't see why HPI still markets the E10.

I put it in the same classification as Tamiya resisting changing the molds on some of their more popular models (the M05, for example) to accept square LiPo packs.
Old 09-27-2013, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ToraKitsu
I'm not at all sure why HPI has never corrected this problem with the plastic compound they use for that chassis, and seemingly, that chassis only.

The on-road one is no different, really. look at it sideways and it cracks. This is the biggest reason why I can never recommend it, even as a beginner. With "el cheapo" chassis like madspeeds being thrown all around the market, I just don't see why HPI still markets the E10.

I put it in the same classification as Tamiya resisting changing the molds on some of their more popular models (the M05, for example) to accept square LiPo packs.
Well at least the tamiyas can take a beating (for less) I've sent my brushless TT01e flying from cracking it up into a curb (I mean seriously it flipped like 5 feet into the air) with 0 damage and there are ways around the battery issue like lipos that are the same shape as the stick packs, or simple mods to battery compartments for some of the lipos


Things HPI should have done to make the EB10, and E10 a great RC(as honestly I loved the layout), and sadly they are simple...
1 metal diff gears(or at least an upgrade option)
2 make the chassis out of a stronger material... The arms, shock towers, and everything else is made out of a damn strong nylon, but the thing to hold it all together cheap brittle plastic...
3 none of that metal bonded to plastic diff cup crap (again could have been an upgrade option)
Sad thing is I e-mailed HPI when my diffs turned to plastic goo asking why there was none the reply I got said they are meant for beginners, and they had no plans to ever fix the issues, as they didn't see them as issues... yea chassis snapping in half from driving on cement without hitting a single thing is not an issue

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Old 09-27-2013, 09:05 PM
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That's surprising, considering the support they're known for (I E-mailed them about a failed one-way for the Sprint 2 years back, and they mailed me a new one, no questions asked). I suppose HPI just isn't concerned that much about the E10 past slapping a new flashy body on it and calling it good, and they're right about it being for beginners, the chassis itself looks so cheap, I never gave thought to "upgrading" it, and when the chassis tub cracked, the decision to toss it didn't take much thought.

I've learned a lot since then, but haven't owned another HPI for going on six years. Not because of bad service....they just don't make anything I want.
Old 09-28-2013, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by ToraKitsu
That's surprising, considering the support they're known for (I E-mailed them about a failed one-way for the Sprint 2 years back, and they mailed me a new one, no questions asked). I suppose HPI just isn't concerned that much about the E10 past slapping a new flashy body on it and calling it good, and they're right about it being for beginners, the chassis itself looks so cheap, I never gave thought to "upgrading" it, and when the chassis tub cracked, the decision to toss it didn't take much thought.

I've learned a lot since then, but haven't owned another HPI for going on six years. Not because of bad service....they just don't make anything I want.
Yea they replaced the liquified diff pretty quick, and they were fast to answer e-mails so no complaints there. Just the QC on a few RC's is not there anymore.
Recently though HPI has been releasing a quite a few turds though. I have a few of their older vehicles, and they were tough as hell.
Most recent RC I bought from them made the E10 look tough, I got the mini recon drove it only on cement twice once stock once brushless(the BL wasn't anything insane either maybe like 15% faster) 2nd time I used the stock ESC it went up in smoke, 1st time with BL I clipped a pole broke an A-arm, shock tower, the brace that holds the pin that holds the A-arm on, and shattered a rim (oddly enough it was the one on the opposite side so the crackup had nothing to do with it) repair costs in parts from HPI $20 more then I paid for the thing brand new RTR from my LHS... I bought parts from a diff RC, and put them on, but been too scared to run it since(and bought a RC18b which took over 500X the beating ).
Old 09-28-2013, 11:38 AM
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Yah, know what you mean..... I also lied a bit, about not buying HPI in six years - I got a mini trophy desert truck, and it is so much fun and so tough, I don't think of it as HPI. It's slightly modded for rally, and is great in that capacity, though I have seen guys overdo the power systems they put in them, and that alone destroys the drivetrain pretty quickly. I'm still running the stock ESC with an Orion 15T rebuildable brushed motor with a fan on the ESC, so it runs cool. The thing is NOISY, though! I've replaced parts to make it stronger, like CVD's all-around, Proline powerstroke shocks, lighter wheels and tires, and a "lightening" program, removing as much weight as is possible, without compromising strength anywhere. It's a fun truck, but I don't do much off-road these days, so it sits on the shelf.

As far as on-road, I see they're re-releasing the micro RS4. I say they should have just kept up with the Cup Racer, and called it good.

With HPI's on-road, it's only about new bodies on the same old chassis they have never done anything to improve.
Old 09-28-2013, 02:31 PM
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true dat
I think I own 5 or so HPI vehicles in running shape (hell I got enough parts to probably build 2 more at least)



To the OP sorry about getting it way off track

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