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please help me someone

Old 10-07-2015, 03:52 PM
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almaidah
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ok i have a ofna gtp2e and my setup is turnigy trackstar 150a gen 2 esc and 2100 kv motor turnigy also. i dont know if i need to change the settings on the remote or what bt the car moves good when i hold it and throttle but if i put it on the ground it sputters and wont go only about 2mph . i took it all apart thinking it was the diff because it sounds like a broken tooth maybe but its not that it the esc and motor or radio not dialed in right maybe i read some where before to change epa or something on the radio but anyway do anyone have any ideas what to try.. thank you for the help

Last edited by almaidah; 10-07-2015 at 05:08 PM.
Old 10-09-2015, 08:05 PM
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collector1231
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Try recalibrating it as it says in the manual.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...7X53414X36.pdf
Old 10-10-2015, 09:12 AM
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Maj_Overdrive
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Originally Posted by almaidah
i read some where before to change epa or something on the radio but anyway do anyone have any ideas what to try.. thank you for the help
Epa stands for End Point Adjustment and not all radios have it. Epa basically means the total available servo travel for that channel. When connecting an esc instead of a servo you want the epa to be set to the maximum travel. Be aware epa can be adjusted in both directions (left and right or throttle and brake) on each channel, so max out throttle and brake epa. Set the throttle trim to zero and subtrim to zero as well if equipped. Then calibrate the esc to the radio as per the esc instructions.

Now, is your motor sensored or sensorless. If it's sensored you need to have the sensor cable hooked up. If the vehicle ends up going in reverse when you try to go forward don't reverse the throttle channel. Reversing the throttle channel will actually mess up the esc calibration you just did. If your motor is sensorless simply switch two of the motor wires or use the programming box for your esc as it should have an option to reverse motor direction. If your motor is sensored you must use the programming box for your esc to reverse motor direction as each motor wire must be connected to its proper location on the esc or it won't run right.
Old 10-13-2015, 06:13 AM
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almaidah
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Sorry I been having problems logging in but I did recalibrate my tx and still the same thing
Old 10-13-2015, 06:17 AM
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almaidah
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My motor is sensored and the wires are connected right the motor goes forward as it should and I do ha've the sensor cable connected also. I checked my soldering points all is shining I think bad motor
Old 10-14-2015, 04:54 PM
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almaidah
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I'm sure someone had this problem or know of someone who did have this problem I can't be the only one
Old 10-15-2015, 12:19 PM
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Ok so you're sensored, the motor wires go from "A" on the esc to "A" on the motor , "B" to "B" and the sensor wire is connected. If that's the case then try disconnecting the sensor wire from the esc. This should put the esc into sensorless mode and won't harm anything unless you run for an extended period of time. Sensored motors generally don't like running in sensorless mode as the esc usually doesn't get the timing quite right so the motor will heat up over the course of a run. If the motor runs fine with the sensor wire disconnected then you have a problem that's most likely in the motor sensor.

You mentioned having a noise possibly from the center diff. Remove the pinion or adjust the motor so the pinion isn't touching the spur and check the drivetrain for smoothness. Then try running the motor without it connected to the spur gear, just use smooth throttle inputs as sudden throttle without a load on the motor can damage it. Also make sure your mesh isn't too tight. A 1/8 setup should be able to overcome tight mesh and just destroy the spur but you never know, I've seen 1/10 motors that will barely turn when the spur to pinion mesh is too tight.

If all that checks out then you likely have something wrong with the motor or esc. If it's the motor then it's likely a problem in the sensor part, if the windings or something else were messed up the motor wouldn't run at all. If the motor runs fine without the sensor wire there could be a problem with the sensor wire or the esc itself.
Old 10-15-2015, 01:29 PM
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almaidah
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Thanks for the reply but yes wires are connected right and I did try the motor without the sensor and it didn't work and its not the diff because took the motor off and ran the motor and it will go the start sounding funny and stop and go I will try to post a video when I get off so people can hear and see what I mean
Old 10-16-2015, 08:13 AM
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Well Hobbyking's description says the esc can operate sensored and sensorless motors, the instructions collector posted says it does both as well. With the sensor wire disconnected the esc should be able to run a sensored motor in sensorless mode, if it can't there's something seriously wrong. Plus the way the motor is stopping and starting when not connected to anything indicates a serious problem with the esc determining the motors position. I lean towards this being a problem with the esc but whether the cause is the motor or the esc is hard to determine without another motor or esc (any size doesn't matter) to test with your existing ones. Do you have another motor or esc?

I'd stop wasting time on the forums and call or email Hobbyking before any warrantee you may have runs out.

Last edited by Maj_Overdrive; 10-16-2015 at 08:35 AM.
Old 10-20-2015, 05:01 AM
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almaidah
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Ok hi sent a new motor and Iran the motor after soldering but didn't put it in the car and it ran good. Then I put it in the can and its acting up again same as the first one so I guess it's the esc. I don't have any other motors or wax to test so will try to get a replacement esc now. Thanks for everyone help and input
Old 11-01-2015, 01:45 PM
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First, did you resolve your issue yet?
Next, the problem you are describing is called "cogging". It is the result is of insufficient power to the motor. This can be one of the following or a combination of them: bad esc (I have both a 1/8 scale and a 1/18th trackstar esc that were bad when I bought them), bad motor (overheated a castle 2200kv motor and it caused it to sputter "cog"), batteries that don't have a high enough c rating (this will cause cogging and the batteries will heat up quickly, so make sure to check your battery temps). The last thing that it could be is a drive train issue, you can check that by removing the motor and just making sure the wheels roll smoothly. I have run into each of these problems over the past year.
Old 11-01-2015, 03:56 PM
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almaidah
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Mosh8877 Thank you I got a new motor they sent me an New one and I ran the motor only not connected tx the car and it runs now but will keep this info just in case I have any problems when I put it in the car

Last edited by almaidah; 11-01-2015 at 04:31 PM.

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