smenton

Just done a search and found a lot of information but not a simple answer... I am just wondering how I can change the steering of my TT-01 to the upgraded TT-01E steering.

Which parts are required?
Thanks

MD6

You can download the TT01E manual.

ElectricGuy007

Im probably gonna end up with one of these cars. Because I bet they are great for bashing since they are shaft drive.
I was gonna run something cheap in it like the Novak Club system $159.

momogt

what are the part numbers for the parts you got foe the upgrade

stevenk27

Hi guys, Let me introduce myself. My name is Steven from sunny South Africa. Im new to the TT-01 world as Ive had my car now for 3 weeks.
Its a RTR Cusco Dunlop Subaru GT3 car, Awesome looking and my favourite car in Gran Turismo 5 on the PS3.
It is standard except for a basher body and foam inserts for racing.
We have a local track that hosts TT-01 class racing twice a month and I raced last Sunday. I ended dead last being stock standard and being way off the pace with incorrect gearing.
I started with a 40sec lap and got it down to 35sec a lap however the opposition run 26sec laps. Im down by 15kph.
I have soldered on some deans plugs and straight connection between the ESC and motor. From my tests before this my car maxed out at 20kph and now hits 22kph. 10% increase is good in my books.
Anyway will update with progress, for now here are a few pics of my car. Enjoy.

qaz393

heres my build.

TT-01E no body.
Sidewinder SV2 5700Kv with TowerHobbies 3000mah NiMh
Tamiya Aluminum Drive Shaft and cups
Tamiya Ball Bearings
Friction Dampers, Stock Tires, Stock Everything else.

Radio:
JR Metal Gear Servo
Futaba 3PL
5 Cell NiMh Battery



Speed Verified with GPS on sony Xperia Ray taped on top of battery hold down running GPS app.

59 KPH (first run fresh charged). Pulls consistent 55 KPH after

dzinehaus

Question... where can i find aluminum or alloy 55t/58t tt01 compatible spur gears? 

The Mad Modder

1. I don't know of any aluminum spur gears currently available for the tt01.
2. No. The tt01 uses standard 190mm sedan bodies(200mm ones will fit, too, with wider offset wheels). Tamiya's M chassis cars are quite a bit smaller.

dzinehaus

Thanks mad modder... I found this for a 52t aluminum spur http://www.ebay.com/itm/400327834013...84.m1423.l2649 and was hoping I could use this. From a buddy's suggestion I grabbed a 80a/10t combo BL motor/esc and he suggested I get aluminum or alloy pinion/gear and drive shaft so I dont pop my drive train in my TT01.

The Mad Modder

No, that spur gear won't work with the tt01. It's made for the 1/18 scale rc18.

You would actually be more likely to damage the rest of the drivetrain gears if you used an aluminum spur gear. It's better for the spur to strip than the diffs because it's easier and cheaper to replace. Also, if the pinion/spur gear mesh is set well, you shouldn't have a problem with a quality plastic spur gear stripping.

dzinehaus

ok thanks, reason why I asked is that I got the tamiya metal spur hop ups, and my buddy that is getting me into r/c suggested I go all alloy or aluminum due to the amount of torque that the motor will generate and that I would want pieces to handle that twist.

The Mad Modder

As long as your pinion/spur gear mesh is set well, I don't think you'll have problem with Tamiya's plastic spur gears. It's good to only use metal parts where necessary as the weight increase really does add up.

It's not worth your time to try to get some metal spurs machined unless you know someone who can do it. Machining companies will charge an arm and a leg for the job and will likely have a minimum order of 10 or more.

For drifting, it's a good idea to use a low gear ratio and/or low kv motor to give you more torque and allow you to break loose the tires easier.

dzinehaus

Mad Modder, My buddy advised to a higher kv motor because I have ultra slippery tires. But from what I understand from what you are saying is that I want my tires to spin less because they are slippery and I want more torque (as much as I can get) mainly using a lower kv motor and a lower pinion/spur setting. 

The Mad Modder

Yeah, if they are extra slippery, you may not need the extra torque.

dzinehaus

yeah they are so slippery I slide with the littlest amount of acceleration. Thats why my buddy suggested more of a drift/racing setup with a higher KV motor.

TT01 is my life

In response to the previous post, I'm using Tamiya Superdriftech tyres (they have practically zero grip through a corner) with a 28/55 gearing and a 28T Lightly Tuned motor. I find it quite capable for drifting.

dzinehaus

ok, that is similar to what I am using. But recently I switched my tires to SPICE hard grip drifting tires with a tread and am using an aluminum drive shaft with a 28/55T on a 80A esc with a 10T brushless with a 3s 5000mAh 20c battery (i play lightly so the 5000 mAh lasts me about 1.5 hours of play time, my 2200mAh gives me about 45m-1hr of play time) and it motors nicely and I can get some really nice high speed drifts.

dj4monie

Okay a couple of things... I sold my other cars and now I want to purchase another car. I have been on the fence and I won't be purchasing until I have saved enough for the budget. I am going with a TT-01E because of its reasonable cost.

I just don't know if it will be RTR or even the completed ES kit. I just don't have the time to construct kits, especially the diffs.

I would race TCS and get the TT-01R but I think its silly you can't run the included tires but must run harder kit rubber. I already have a radio (75Mhz FM), battery (3300mAh NiMH) and Peak Detect charger.

Hobbypartz has horribly cheap BL's, so I may get those along with bearings, Mini Oil Shocks, Speed Gear and Pinion(s).

I also wanted to get into FPV using my MS Sidewinder Steering Wheel with high bandwidth Video, possibly Dragonlink UHL to carry both the video and radio signal. I like the appeal of running the car around beyond LoS with a just over the hood or maybe bumper cam POV.

Question -

Mainly I wanted to know how much Brushless I can get without melting the stock drivetrain (beyond bearings and alum driveshaft)? I've seen 5.5T and 8.5T listed by some users on the forum. I wasn't sure the current gear ratio was available for such a low turn motor. The goal is to get as much speed as possible. Running the car in the street but low traffic areas, I want the top speed 5-10mph above school speed limits (25mph) to avoid getting run over in a emergency. I also wouldn't mind drag racing scale cars up to 60mph but it seem the realistic limit of the gearing/chassis is about 45-50mph.

I haven't posted in a long time, so thanks.

dzinehaus

In all honesty what you are asking... from what I understand... is that you are getting back into 1/10 and buying a TT01-E RTR or pre-made kit... looking for upgrades on the cheap and wondering how to get the best top speed without upgrading the drive shaft?

If that's the question then... upgrade the drive shaft... its the cheapest upgrade you can go for as the rest of the parts are fairly sturdy, but with such a low turn motor and high amp ESC you will have so much flex on the drive shaft it just might snap.

Speaking from my own begginer experience, I put in a 80A esc + 10T brushless sensorless motor with a 55T spur and a 28T pinion. The drive shaft, just on hand held tests, started flexing like you wouldnt believe. i paid a simple 14$ for an alloy drive shaft upgrade and it did all the difference.

As of late, for new body, and other upgrades... I have spent 100$ for the TT01, 14$ for the drive shaft, 22$ for the body, 24$ for the paint, 30$ for the rims & wheels (4 sets), 7$ roll cage, 2$ tie wraps, 8$ light buckets, 15$ light kit, 90$ ESC/motor (80A + 10T), 12$ for front and rear diff planetary gears, 14$ ceramic bearing set. = 341$ for all upgrades so far....

In short, I thought I could get away with 100$ for the car kit and just upgrade a few things... yeah... 200$ over budget later...

lhmai

I too am building my TT01E. My first RC to say as well Got a VW GTI cup car kit for Christmas and pretty much finished building it. All that's left is: radio and rx, servo, battery/charger, paint. It actually came with an ESC (tamiya teu101bk), but I did not realize this so went to the local shop and bought a Dynamite Lipo Tazer 12t waterproof + EC3 to tamiya adapter all for $68 Now trying to decide which one I should keep. Also don't know what charger or radio to go for. Thinking about the Flysky Gt3b/c for radio and Thunder AC6 for charger plus convert an old PC power supply into one for RC use. Oh the world of RC, there's so much to do!

dj4monie

Plans have changed somewhat, I will explain.

I will be getting a TT-01 Type E RTR (XBS) because its cheaper than getting a standard car in reality. I am not interested in ordering from South East Asia or Japan since shipping is expensive and takes too long, when I can pay a little more locally (within the US) and get it in a few days. Shockingly for Southern California almost nobody carries Tamiya's lower end cars just the high end $200+ stuff.

I am familiar with the TT-01 and TT-01E weak points are. I have decided to finally do some Tamiya Championship Racing (TCS) and will start at the shallow end with Spec Novice.

I have priced out #58450 which is the pre-assembled TT-01R Type E vs a standard TT-01E kit with a body I can tolerate and a TT-01ES RTR (XBS). I would save about $10 going with the RTR option.

Not sure about $200 in upgrades. I have focused on what the car needs to be competitive in Spec Novice which uses the stock motor. I have come up with just over $80 in upgrades to make it competition ready, plus a few tricks to make sure I am near the sharp end.

The car with all the right hop-ups is $282 RTR but without a battery. I currently have a 3300mah which I haven't used and I'm being told since its a few years old, it likely won't hold a charge, we shall see.

I am right at the top of my budget for this while FPV is likely going to run about $150 +/- initial investment.

But I have always wanted to race competitively in the TCS, so I am going to go that route and do FPV when I return from my trip.

Question -

What ROAR legal lipo fit in the TT-01 battery area without modification?

dj4monie

I thought the Thunder AC6 was AC powered????

TEU10 is not suitable for low turn motors which, its for the stock motor, lightly tuned motor and sport tuned motors that Tamiya makes.

For now I would just run the stock ESC, its plenty for the stock motor. If the ESC you bought can handle a brushless motor, I would keep it for a future upgrade.

Flysky GT3B gets great reviews, it is the radio I am looking at as well.

dzinehaus

your comments are a bit backwards. You can order from hobbyking.com or towerhobbies and still pay lower than you think. Even buying overseas you can get it there very fast seeing as you are in california.

roar battery go check hobbyking.

im curious to hear what uppgrades you are planning. because the second i upgraded my tt-01 certain stock parts couldnt hold up.

enjoy the shotty steering on a stock build.

cenracer1

I've been following this thread for a while now and it has helped me decide that I will not upgrade the 3 TT01E's that I have to anything more than a slightly modified motor and digital servo's. I run alot of touring cars and my real speed cars are the HPI's. They can handle the brushless motors and higher speeds. The Tamiya class I will run in is stock spec.. so keeping it slower will benefit this car it seems. Here are a couple of the cars I put together for my girls to run in the stock racing class... this one is for my 6 year old.. Monster high...

My older girl 8 loves the Avengers...

The Mad Modder

Those bodies turned out really well, cenracer1.