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1/10 RC Formula 1 Cars...lets see'em

Old 11-14-2008, 05:31 PM
  #226  
Giorno
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Default RE: 1/10 RC Formula 1 Cars...lets see'em

I inquired about a way to protect the gears on my Delphi Indy Car a few weeks ago. Well, I ordered a TRG diffuser and installed it. The mounting holes were a bit off, as Vyger and I were able to determine. It has been driven for over two hours with no problems, aside from the obvious dust buildup! Thanks for the part recommendation.

Old 11-14-2008, 05:38 PM
  #227  
Giorno
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Default RE: 1/10 RC Formula 1 Cars...lets see'em

Also, here are some pictures of my very first R/C car, which also happens to be an Indy car - specifically, a Kyosho Target/Scotch Lola T9300. I believe I was in the fourth grade when I got it - my dad built and painted it, obviously. Suffice it to say, it's been out of commission for well over a decade. I have no idea about parts availability or compatibility with this chassis, but the car only needs a spur gear differential and some new tires to run. If you guys have any input, let me know. It would be pretty interesting to get it running again.









Old 11-14-2008, 06:42 PM
  #228  
drevil
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Default RE: 1/10 RC Formula 1 Cars...lets see'em

Honestly I'd probably just keep the Kyosho as a shelf queen because parts are going to be next to impossible to find for that thing and by the time you buy a few replacement parts off ebay for it you could have just bought an F103 kit. Nice looking car though. I remember drooling over those in the Tower catalog many years ago.
Old 11-16-2008, 07:32 PM
  #229  
Vyger
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Default RE: 1/10 RC Formula 1 Cars...lets see'em

I’m still working on the MP4/7 body. It hasn’t been an easy cut and mount job. I’m just happy I decided to stick with my plan to cut & fit before paint. Trimming the TRG body on the provided trim lines would have been a disaster. So it’s taking a little more time than I was anticipateing.

Since I didn’t feel like working on the body last night I decided to throw together another chassis, I think I’ll need one for the FW-16 body project down the road.

All the chassis I’ve done to date have been from kits and added hop-ups. This time I decided I’d build the car from just spare parts and hop-ups. I also thought I’d try an idea that I’ve had for a while to replace the stock T-plate bulk heads. I figure the car isn’t based on any Tamiya kit and the body is aftermarket, so why not have a little fun with it.

Here are the basic parts I’ve started with. Most of the parts making up the car are hop-ups so I don’t have to scrounge up to many things to get this complete. As you can see I have a carbon chassis, upper deck, aluminum diff joints, TRF Shock, aluminum motor mount, 3-Racing’s adjustable damper post and graphite rear axle, light weight rear hubs and bearings.



I started off with building the rear pod. Dropped the bearings into place, then slid in the graphite axel in. I secured both rear hubs, remember to use a little lock tight on the setscrews, I’ve had these loosen up at a race and it sucks. Then I put a small amount of diff grease on the face of the diff joint. This will keep the diff ring from falling off during assembly. Next I applied a little grease to the diff ring and rubbed it around to coat the surface. After that I slid on the inside diff joint. You’ll notice from the pics I also added some diff grease to the hub. The reason I do this is I’ve noticed over the years that the hub will show signs of wear. It’s not from the bearings because I check those regularly. So my thought is just add a little grease just incase, what can it hurt. Next was the spur gear. I add a little diff grease to each hole, then I drop the balls in and add a little more grease. Once the spur gear is in place I add more grease to the shoulder of the gear and slide on the remaining diff joint. I prefer to use the thrust assembly pictured instead of the rings and balls supplied in the kit. Tamiya sells this part separately and I think it works a little better. I use a very hard grease for this. Something like Associated’s black grease works well.














With the pod complete it was onto the chassis. I used Square Racing’s 3x35mm titanium screws up front for the servo holders. At the rear of the chassis I went a different route. I took some old carbon scrap and cut two cross sections to replace the stock T-plate bulk heads. I used four of the Tamiya F1 shock posts to provide support for the upper deck. The shock posts are threaded from both ends so I didn’t have to use the 3x35mm screws like normal. I secured the post from the bottom using four 3x8mm titanium socket head countersunk screws. Then I mounted the T-plate and shock post. Next was the upper deck. I used the four 3x8 aluminum socket head screws and Tamiya damper spacers as a washer on all six upper deck mounting locations.






For the rear damper I’ve always used a little of the Hard Grease to provide some of the dampening of the adjustable rear post. I just smear a little on the post and slide the body on. The reason I do this is there’s a little play when this is assembled. I use to wrap plumbers tape around the steal post to take up the gap. It worked well, but this works just as good and it’s allot easier. One thing I’d like to point out. The cap that threads on and holds the upper spring can come loose from vibration. I strongly suggest you add a small amount of lock tight to the threads. If you have to replace this part from wear, I’d suggest looking at 3-Racings adjustable damper post. It’s a little cheaper than the Tamiya part and the cap has an o-ring in the center. This really helps to hold the setting and isn’t as messy as the lock tight.













Up at the front end of the car I had to use the old style kingpins to secure the axels. I say old because these are from way back when the F101 was the top dog from Tamiya’s F1 lineup. To use these you have to run a setscrew in the back of the axel, slide the kingpin into place and measure 8.5mm top and bottom, then tighten. I should mention it’s a good idea to use the set screw in the back of the axel even if you’re using the newer kingpins. I do this to remove slop from the front and it means the kingpins are turning when I crank the wheel, not the nylon part. I’ve always thought the nylon could cause some drag. Once the kings pins are in I pull out that hard grease I used on the rear damper and apply it to the kingpins. Again, this will provide some extra dampening in the front end. Remember it’s just a little spring up there. You can use different viscosity greases to find your ideal setup. When those where done I bolted the front end in.









I’m using the Tamiya F103 turnbuckles but I substituted the kit supplied ball ends for the Tamiya Molly ball ends. These are a little more hard then the black plastic ones and shouldn’t stretch as much over time. I’m using the Tamiya black heavy duty servo saver and to this I mounted two 5mm aluminum ball nuts. The problem I ran into the larger ball nuts and molly ball ends rubbed against the servo mount. Because I didn’t want to compromise my original idea I decided I’d trim down the servo mount. I taped it off, dew a diagonal line and cut it using a Tamiya hobby saw (it was sort of late at night and I didn’t want to wake my wife with the Dremel). They came pretty nice and will still secure the servo without any problems. Now the ball ends wont rub against the servo mount and we’re good to go. Chassis complete.













Old 11-16-2008, 08:31 PM
  #230  
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Default RE: 1/10 RC Formula 1 Cars...lets see'em

WOW,.... [X(] ,I'm sure i'm speaking for all of us here, THANKS for the time and effort it takes for you to post your fantastic,commentaried builds..... ,my son and i are learning ALOT from this thread,please keep up the GREAT work.... [8D]
Old 11-17-2008, 12:01 PM
  #231  
Vyger
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Default RE: 1/10 RC Formula 1 Cars...lets see'em

Hey Bob, thanks for saying that. It means allot knowing that it's helping someone. I thought I'd try to show some tuning tips in this one. It's all stuff I learned over the years from racing this class. If you have any questions please feel free to post it up here or shoot me a pm. My next step is getting the body completed on the MP 4/7. Then it's on to project F103L.
Old 11-18-2008, 12:20 AM
  #232  
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Default RE: 1/10 RC Formula 1 Cars...lets see'em

Man some of these cars you guys have done are awsome id get one just to have one the wall, who makes these kits, can some one hook it up with some links to what models are out there???

i dont wanna hijack the thread if you guys dont mind can you PM me the info!!
Old 11-18-2008, 01:53 AM
  #233  
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Default RE: 1/10 RC Formula 1 Cars...lets see'em

It looks like you spend good time racing that car, I am just building mine and will have the same body as yours, I'm painting it like Scott Dixon-Target. Let me know how to resolve the holes on the diffuser, because after reading your post and seeing your car I order one (the carbon look a like)

Run well!
HeliYogi
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Old 11-18-2008, 03:24 PM
  #234  
drevil
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Default RE: 1/10 RC Formula 1 Cars...lets see'em


ORIGINAL: MiamizFinest

Man some of these cars you guys have done are awsome id get one just to have one the wall, who makes these kits, can some one hook it up with some links to what models are out there???

i dont wanna hijack the thread if you guys dont mind can you PM me the info!!
Most of them posted here are based off the Tamiya F103. Tamiya recently re-released the F103 under the F103RM name. Try checking out stellamodels.net or rcmart.com if you want to order one now, otherwise I think Towerhobbies.com has them coming in later this month.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVPZ1&P=7
Old 11-19-2008, 11:57 AM
  #235  
Vyger
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Default RE: 1/10 RC Formula 1 Cars...lets see'em


ORIGINAL: Giorno

I inquired about a way to protect the gears on my Delphi Indy Car a few weeks ago. Well, I ordered a TRG diffuser and installed it. The mounting holes were a bit off, as Vyger and I were able to determine. It has been driven for over two hours with no problems, aside from the obvious dust buildup! Thanks for the part recommendation.

Hey Giorno, I'm happy to see the diffuser worked out. It looks good on there. From the sounds of it, your problem has been solved. Thanls or posting up pics and commenting on the result.
Old 11-19-2008, 05:50 PM
  #236  
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Default RE: 1/10 RC Formula 1 Cars...lets see'em


ORIGINAL: HeliYogi

It looks like you spend good time racing that car, I am just building mine and will have the same body as yours, I'm painting it like Scott Dixon-Target. Let me know how to resolve the holes on the diffuser, because after reading your post and seeing your car I order one (the carbon look a like)

Run well!
HeliYogi
Hey, that's really great. It's a fun car, and like all F1's, takes a quite a bit more finesse to handle than your typical 4wd touring car, which is why they're much more enjoyable, imo.

Yeah, once the lexan has been cut out, you should be able to easily determine a proper mounting position to the t-plate - just make sure the spur doesn't contact the diffuser. I used a body reamer to drill the holes. However, that's the easy part. The diffuser didn't mount in a perfectly centered position relative to the chassis, so the left part of the diffuser was touching the left rear wheel. In the picture above, you can see that I made a smooth contoured section in the diffuser to allow space for the rear wheel. I achieved this using a dremel, which was also necessary for smoothing out the round section of the diffuser. So, I'd highly recommend using a dremel if you have one, to make these modifications - not sure it would be possile, otherwise. Good luck!
Old 11-19-2008, 05:54 PM
  #237  
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Default RE: 1/10 RC Formula 1 Cars...lets see'em

Anybody know anything bout release date of new tamiya F1 car? the F103?
Old 11-19-2008, 08:14 PM
  #238  
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Default RE: 1/10 RC Formula 1 Cars...lets see'em


ORIGINAL: Sprint2Drift

Anybody know anything bout release date of new tamiya F1 car? the F103?
Which one? The F103RM is already out and can be purchased from RCmart or Stellamodels. The F103 Anniversary Edition can be pre-ordered from those two places or Towerhobbies. The anniversary edition should be out later this month.
Old 11-21-2008, 07:38 PM
  #239  
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Default RE: 1/10 RC Formula 1 Cars...lets see'em

In an attempt to try help new people running their F103, I’ve put together a basic setup, a starting point if you will, for a car that isn’t as easy to drive as it is to build. I’ve known quite a few people over the years that buy one these because they look cool, but sell them soon after because of the difficulty to drive and set up.

This isn’t the end all set up for an F103. This is what worked (with limited success) for me. It’s also important to note that this is a NIMH set up, not Lipo. I only recently acquired some Lipo’s and haven’t had a chance to run them in the car. So the setup I’ve described below may vary for the lighter weight battery packs. I’m sure many will disagree with what I’ve written below, that’s fine, everyone’s different and entitled to their own opinion. If you have a better baseline set up, please feel free to share it. If you’re worried about sharing your magic formula and getting beat, you shouldn’t be. It still takes skill behind the wheel to get these cars around the track.

With all that being said here we go…

FRONT END:
I like to use the original style F103 front A-arms. I’m not at all knocked out by the link type. I use the inline axels, black springs, and a small amount Tamiya Hard Grease on the kingpin. This ads a small amount of dampening to the limitted front suspension. I also like to secure the axel to the king pin using a set screw. The back of the axel is already threaded so there’s no problem with getting the set screw in. This allows me to lock the axel down and remove the lower e-clip under the axel. This lowers the front of the car small amount.

DIFF:
Once the front end is done I move to the rear. I like using the 93 tooth, .04 pitch, spur gear, to this I add the carbide diff balls and rings. As I mentioned in an earlier post I put diff grease in the holes, then insert the diff balls, then apply a small amount of grease of the dry side of the diff balls. I also smear a small amount of diff grease on the rings and the diff joint. I use a diff grease from back in the day that you can’t even find anymore. It works great but when it’s out it’s time to find another. I would suggest using Associated’s red labeled diff grease. It works pretty well and is easily obtainable in most hobby shops. For that small thrust assembly that goes in the rear wheel I like to use a harder grease, like the Associated black grease. When the car is fully assembled and ready to go I do a quick test to make sure the diff is set correctly. For me, I like the diff to slip just a little from a standing start. By a little I mean about two to three inches. The diff setup is pretty crucial and care should be given when adjusting. If you run the car with the diff too loose it won’t accelerate out of the turns properly. If the diff is too tight the car will want to spin out on initial acceleration.

T-PLATE:
There are quite a few different T-plates on the market to choose from. I’ve always stuck the Tamiya brand. They offer two different choices the stock one (supplied in the kit) and an “S” for soft type. I’ve found the soft T-plate works very well with foam tires while the stock works well with rubber. I also use the O-ring setup instead of the pivot ball. I think the O-ring offers a more consistent feel to the car, while the pivot ball sort of slowly loads up then rolls all the over and then cars breaks loose. I know a few carpet guys that swear by the pivot ball system. I would suggest trying both out to see what works for you.

I adjust my T-plate by first tightening the front screw. I snug this down fairly tight. The rear screw gets tightened in small amounts and checked frequently. I tighten this up until the T-plate can’t move side to side and stop. I check the front the same way after the rear has been adjusted. I think this is really a crucial area most people over look when dialing their car in. It’s really a fine line between set and missed. If you over tighten the T-plate it makes the car to stiff and the car will want to spin out as if it was on ice. If it’s too loose the car won’t settle to take a turn. If I’m going out with a fresh car this is one of the first things I adjust or check.

Keep in mind if you’re using the O-ring set up this well wear out and oblong the holes in your T-plate after some use. The T-plate will need to be replaced periodically, it’s a wear item.

REAR DAMPER PLATE & SHOCK
As I mentioned before I use a small amount of the hard grease on the shaft bolted to the upper deck. This takes out some of the slop and allows the damper plate to react more quickly (at least I think it does). Once I’ve done this I drop the threaded damper post over the top, followed by the lower spring (I use the gold spring it’s a little more firm than the silver one and works well for my driving. I had to crank the silver one down really far to get the car to handle the way I drive. The gold one didn’t have to be tightened as much and made the car feel a little more planted),

Then I mount the damper disk. I generally use the black plastic ones. I’ve used the white teflon disks before and found they warp over time or wear unevenly. Since I use damper grease I didn’t see any advantages to using the teflon disk and the black ones are included in the kit. For damper grease I pretty much only use the Tamiya damper grease. They make (or made) a set of soft, medium and hard greases. I typically stick to the hard grease, if it’s really cold outside I’d go to a softer grease to try and get that same left to right feeling. The reason I use it is for dampening the rear suspension. It helps control the roll of the rear T-plate. I’ve noticed if you don’t use it or use too light of grease the car acts a little squirrelly. By adding a small amount of grease to the damper disks that flighty/unstable feeling is settled down.

With the damper lubed up and everything in place I put on the damper nut. I usually measure this with some calipers so my starting point is always the same. I run the nut down about 6mm. This is further adjusted once I’m at the track and the car has been run to get a basic feel.

The shock, for years I used the standard F103 Aluminum Shock. It works well and shouldn’t be tossed aside for a newer version unless it really needs to be replaced or you have access to a stock room full of the new ones. With that being said I will use the newer type of shock for this write up. I assemble the shock just like the instruction say, accept I the final e-clip that is used to secure the piston to the shock shaft, I give this a little bend. This removes that small amount of play end to end. Does it help? Not sure but it can’t hurt. You can also use a small shim to get the same effect. When assembling the end of the shock with the O-ring and spacers I use a small amount of Associated’s Green Slime. This keeps the shock from weeping any oil by providing a better seal for the O-rings and spacers and allows the shock shaft to move very smoothly on the car. I use the three hole piston with 25-30 weight oil. I also use the lightweight aluminum spring retainer end with that is 1mm lower than the standard spring retainer, the reason is the aluminum collar (the ring that screws onto the shock body) that ads or subtracts pressure to the spring is pretty thick. I like the run the car with very little tension on the spring. I’ve found when I use the stand spring retainer and the aluminum collar it bows the center of the car because of the extra load on the spring. When the shock is built and mounted to the car put the battery in it, check it from the side to see if the chassis is sagging or drooping in the center. You can adjust this out by preloading the spring, but it should be pretty flat as is.

CHASSIS:
Make sure your car is flat when bolting on the upper deck. Because there are two separate decks it’s very possible to assemble them tweeked or twisted. You may need to ask a buddy to push down on the center of the upper deck while you tighten the screws. I tighten them up like you would lug nuts on a wheel, alternating corners until each one is tightened down. Also check your damper plate to make sure it’s straight. This piece is made with a slight gap in the screw holes so they don’t bind when assembling. This gap can allow the damper plate to be mounted off center. Again, not sure if it helps, but it certainly can’t hurt.

As I said before, I’m not saying this is the “end all be all” set up, I’m simply trying to help others get there cars set up for a starting point. I would suggest talking to others you run with to see what there doing and don’t be afraid to try things, you can always put the car back to the way it was. I hope this helps someone and good luck!
Old 11-22-2008, 05:01 AM
  #240  
HeliYogi
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Default RE: 1/10 RC Formula 1 Cars...lets see'em

Thanks Vyger!

As a beginner in F1-RC I appreciate your enthusiasm, keep posting so we can benefit form your experience.

I just got my F103RM Wednesday and started punting it together
Play some classic music, take out the tools and enjoy an hour or so a day except for Thursday.

I am practicing on my GT-01 chassis which I hoop-up with bigger tiers and a sport 370 motor, I run it without the 934 body (got 40% faster than stock). its rear drive so maybe I'm getting a little taste of the real deal!


Here is a question: As I was trying to portray in the 2nd photo I have not tighten up the motor tray to the base because I think that is where a diffuser that I bought from rcmart (TRG carbon look alike) goes. This piece has not arrived. Should I wait for it (to save time and effort putting it back together again) or will it make no difference if I install it latter?

Cheers!

PD. Can we have a set by step body paint and decal placing lesson?
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Old 11-23-2008, 09:32 AM
  #241  
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Default RE: 1/10 RC Formula 1 Cars...lets see'em

i borrowed an f1 car to race at my local club last night, then at the end of the night i bought a used one myself, it needs some work doing to it, but i cant wait to get it done.

there were 6 people racing, and in the 4 races, my positions were, 2,3,2,2, i was pleased with myself to say i havent driven a 2wd on-road car for about 2 years.

i will post some pics of my car later, i think it's just a standard F103, but i'm not sure.

I'm getting a HPI shell and wings for it, and Zen tyres
Old 11-23-2008, 10:00 AM
  #242  
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Default RE: 1/10 RC Formula 1 Cars...lets see'em

heres some pics of it

does anyone know what make the shell is ??

it has mercedes benz wrote on the side

is the chassis just a standard F103 ?

also,

does anyone know where i can get a copy of the build manual online ? aka, a free one
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Old 11-23-2008, 10:03 AM
  #243  
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Default RE: 1/10 RC Formula 1 Cars...lets see'em

a couple more
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Old 11-28-2008, 10:39 AM
  #244  
xzavin
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Default RE: 1/10 RC Formula 1 Cars...lets see'em

Hey guys, getting car maybe heres my set up what ya think?

So far can't find a new F103RM, thanks alot vyger I know you bought all 13 that RC-Mart had because they all went away within 2 weeks when they hadn't sold for months! If anybody can find me please tell me?

Other stuff:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXNCV8&P=ML

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSFL6&P=7

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVRC5&P=7

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=LXEDP161&P=7

Alright thanks!
Old 11-28-2008, 11:23 AM
  #245  
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Default RE: 1/10 RC Formula 1 Cars...lets see'em

sure!

http://www.stellamodels.net/catalog/...oducts_id=3713
Old 11-28-2008, 01:32 PM
  #246  
xzavin
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Default RE: 1/10 RC Formula 1 Cars...lets see'em

sick dude which is L type is that the norm?
Old 11-28-2008, 03:04 PM
  #247  
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Default RE: 1/10 RC Formula 1 Cars...lets see'em

i dont know the difference, it is low stock, so if you wait, you will miss out.
Old 11-28-2008, 09:49 PM
  #248  
xzavin
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Default RE: 1/10 RC Formula 1 Cars...lets see'em

Alright and for a motor?
Old 11-29-2008, 02:18 AM
  #249  
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Default RE: 1/10 RC Formula 1 Cars...lets see'em

this should fit the bill, not crazy fast, but you dont need crazy fast to have fun with this chassis.

http://www.stellamodels.net/catalog/...oducts_id=3010
Old 11-30-2008, 04:15 PM
  #250  
drevil
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Default RE: 1/10 RC Formula 1 Cars...lets see'em


ORIGINAL: xzavin

sick dude which is L type is that the norm?
L type comes with the Ligier body.

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