Tamiya Mini Coopers - what is the difference?
09-30-2008, 08:34 PM
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Tamiya Mini Coopers - what is the difference?
Alright guys, I'm thinking of picking one of these up to join the local Cooper race scene here in Indy. Looking at Tower, or Amazon, what is the difference between:
1. Mini Cooper Monte Carlo RTR
http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Cooper-Mo...824370&sr=8-21
2. Mini Cooper 2002 XB RTR: M03L
http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Cooper-20...2824556&sr=8-1
3. Mini Cooper S 2006 RTR: M03L
http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Cooper-S-...2824556&sr=8-2
I think the main difference I'm coming up with is the Monte Carlo has the M-03 chassis, which is shorter than the other 2 with m-03L. Is there $40 difference between the '02 and '06? Also, should I purchase one of these as a kit and pick my components more as ala carte? I'm sure that would be more expensive, but what are the recommendations? BTW, I started with surface RC decades ago, then ended up in airplanes and helis, now I'm circling back for something on the ground again!
1. Mini Cooper Monte Carlo RTR
http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Cooper-Mo...824370&sr=8-21
2. Mini Cooper 2002 XB RTR: M03L
http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Cooper-20...2824556&sr=8-1
3. Mini Cooper S 2006 RTR: M03L
http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Cooper-S-...2824556&sr=8-2
I think the main difference I'm coming up with is the Monte Carlo has the M-03 chassis, which is shorter than the other 2 with m-03L. Is there $40 difference between the '02 and '06? Also, should I purchase one of these as a kit and pick my components more as ala carte? I'm sure that would be more expensive, but what are the recommendations? BTW, I started with surface RC decades ago, then ended up in airplanes and helis, now I'm circling back for something on the ground again!
10-01-2008, 01:29 PM
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RE: Tamiya Mini Coopers - what is the difference?
What are the requirements for racing? Do you have to use a stock 27t motor? Then you really only have to get an ESC which doesn't come with the kit anyway. I'd go for one of the M03L chassis ones, they would be a bit more stable but not as nimble.
10-01-2008, 04:27 PM
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RE: Tamiya Mini Coopers - what is the difference?
ORIGINAL: Druss
What are the requirements for racing? Do you have to use a stock 27t motor?
What are the requirements for racing? Do you have to use a stock 27t motor?
10-02-2008, 11:52 PM
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RE: Tamiya Mini Coopers - what is the difference?
Here is the diffrence.
M03 - Is the shortest version of the 3 chassises. It can run bodies like the old mini style body. It also has a largest number or bodies available. This is the most popular version of the Tamiya Mini in the Asian region and Australia. Importing the bodies can get expensive at around $40 to $50 a shell after shipping. The M03 also shares the same front knuckles and C hubs at the TL01. This kits comes with a Mechanical Speed Control. You will want to buy an ESC. This car also comes with the softest rims. You should go ahead and order some diffrent rims, because you will break these. This kit does not include ball bearings.This is often the least expensive version.
M03M - This kits is also know as the Suzuki Swift kit. It is widely considered to be the best "value" Tamiya Mini kits available. It adds a small spacer to the chassis to make it slightly longer than the M03. It uses a diffrent set of front knuckles and c-hubs than the M03. Finding the front kunckles and C hubs is a bit more difficult as they are not the same parts as the TL01. Often times you must resort to ordering these parts from Asia. This kit does come with an electronic ESC. One benefit of the M03m is that it comes with a rear upright with a slight toe in of about 2 degrees. This is very beneficial as it makes the car more stable. This piece can be purchased seperatley and is very inexpensive. The M03M offers the least choice of body selections. The M03M also offers the most durable rims from Tamiya (the 11 spoke). This kit includes ball bearings for the wheels, but not the gear box.
M03L - Is the longest verson of the Tamiya Mini's. It can also run most M04 bodies. The M03L also shares the same front knuckles and c-hubs as the TL01. The reason I keep reffering to these parts is because these parts will break quite often. The TL01's are a popular car, and it makes finding replacement parts easier. This way you aren't ordering $5 parts from Japan and paying $8 in shipping. The M03L comes with an electronic speed control. This kits does not include ball bearings. The rims in this kit are in the middle of the durability range.
M03R - Is the "Race" version of the Mini. It comes with a full set of ball bearings, oil shocks (these are brittle and will be broken), 11 spoke rims, a metal heat sink (bad design, does not work), aluminum knuckles, and aluminum rear uprights with about 1.5 degree tow in.. No speed controlled is included with this kit. This version is a more for show than race. The extra money doesn't buy anymore performance. This version includes all 3 spacers and can be ran as a M03, M03M, and M03L. It does not include a body.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _____________
Here is my advise
Choose the body you like better between the M03 and the M03L.
Buy the Toe-In Rear Upright (part 53345) and also get a full set of ball bearings.
If you buy the M03 also purchase a ESC and a set of 11 spoke rims.
Your last upgrade should be the Super Mini Shocks (part 50746) and the "Tuned Spring Short" (parts 53630, 53631, 53632, 53633)
Do not buy:
Manta Ray Diff - The planetary diff works just fine, but if you must have a ball diff get the TA03 diff (part 53267). The Manta Ray doesn't work well.
The heat sink motor mount - it doesn't work.
Expensive Metal Shocks - you can, but you will not see a big performance diffrence if any.
3 Racing Aluminum Knuckles - They are soft and the bend easier than the stock plastic ones. If you must have some get Top Cad or Tamiya. Be sure to buy the right ones as the M03M will not fit a M03 and vice versa.
Any lightweight parts as this car runs better with more weight. Infact if you run lipo, you will need to add weight.
Set Up
Ride and RP have the best tires available IMHO.
Put softer tires on the back than the front.
Also user softer springs on the back and harder springs on the front.
M03 - Is the shortest version of the 3 chassises. It can run bodies like the old mini style body. It also has a largest number or bodies available. This is the most popular version of the Tamiya Mini in the Asian region and Australia. Importing the bodies can get expensive at around $40 to $50 a shell after shipping. The M03 also shares the same front knuckles and C hubs at the TL01. This kits comes with a Mechanical Speed Control. You will want to buy an ESC. This car also comes with the softest rims. You should go ahead and order some diffrent rims, because you will break these. This kit does not include ball bearings.This is often the least expensive version.
M03M - This kits is also know as the Suzuki Swift kit. It is widely considered to be the best "value" Tamiya Mini kits available. It adds a small spacer to the chassis to make it slightly longer than the M03. It uses a diffrent set of front knuckles and c-hubs than the M03. Finding the front kunckles and C hubs is a bit more difficult as they are not the same parts as the TL01. Often times you must resort to ordering these parts from Asia. This kit does come with an electronic ESC. One benefit of the M03m is that it comes with a rear upright with a slight toe in of about 2 degrees. This is very beneficial as it makes the car more stable. This piece can be purchased seperatley and is very inexpensive. The M03M offers the least choice of body selections. The M03M also offers the most durable rims from Tamiya (the 11 spoke). This kit includes ball bearings for the wheels, but not the gear box.
M03L - Is the longest verson of the Tamiya Mini's. It can also run most M04 bodies. The M03L also shares the same front knuckles and c-hubs as the TL01. The reason I keep reffering to these parts is because these parts will break quite often. The TL01's are a popular car, and it makes finding replacement parts easier. This way you aren't ordering $5 parts from Japan and paying $8 in shipping. The M03L comes with an electronic speed control. This kits does not include ball bearings. The rims in this kit are in the middle of the durability range.
M03R - Is the "Race" version of the Mini. It comes with a full set of ball bearings, oil shocks (these are brittle and will be broken), 11 spoke rims, a metal heat sink (bad design, does not work), aluminum knuckles, and aluminum rear uprights with about 1.5 degree tow in.. No speed controlled is included with this kit. This version is a more for show than race. The extra money doesn't buy anymore performance. This version includes all 3 spacers and can be ran as a M03, M03M, and M03L. It does not include a body.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _____________
Here is my advise
Choose the body you like better between the M03 and the M03L.
Buy the Toe-In Rear Upright (part 53345) and also get a full set of ball bearings.
If you buy the M03 also purchase a ESC and a set of 11 spoke rims.
Your last upgrade should be the Super Mini Shocks (part 50746) and the "Tuned Spring Short" (parts 53630, 53631, 53632, 53633)
Do not buy:
Manta Ray Diff - The planetary diff works just fine, but if you must have a ball diff get the TA03 diff (part 53267). The Manta Ray doesn't work well.
The heat sink motor mount - it doesn't work.
Expensive Metal Shocks - you can, but you will not see a big performance diffrence if any.
3 Racing Aluminum Knuckles - They are soft and the bend easier than the stock plastic ones. If you must have some get Top Cad or Tamiya. Be sure to buy the right ones as the M03M will not fit a M03 and vice versa.
Any lightweight parts as this car runs better with more weight. Infact if you run lipo, you will need to add weight.
Set Up
Ride and RP have the best tires available IMHO.
Put softer tires on the back than the front.
Also user softer springs on the back and harder springs on the front.
10-03-2008, 12:21 AM
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RE: Tamiya Mini Coopers - what is the difference?
Check out these cool hop up's.
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-tl0...th=595_744_707
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-mot...?cPath=293_946
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-mot...?cPath=293_946
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-mot...cPath=293_1021
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-mch...l?cPath=35_898
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-tou...l?cPath=35_957
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-tou...l?cPath=35_957
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-tir...ml?cPath=35_57
Radio/Transmitter
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=LXCXM4**&P=0
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-tl0...th=595_744_707
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-mot...?cPath=293_946
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-mot...?cPath=293_946
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-mot...cPath=293_1021
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-mch...l?cPath=35_898
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-tou...l?cPath=35_957
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-tou...l?cPath=35_957
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-tir...ml?cPath=35_57
Radio/Transmitter
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=LXCXM4**&P=0
10-03-2008, 12:24 AM
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RE: Tamiya Mini Coopers - what is the difference?
If you want to race it, you should first ask the locals the rules they use reguarding ESC, Motors, and Batteries.
No need to buy twice.
No need to buy twice.
10-03-2008, 12:33 AM
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RE: Tamiya Mini Coopers - what is the difference?
Here are some cheaper prices.
http://www.ultimatehobbies.com/istar.asp?a=6&id=TAM57744!1006
http://www.ultimatehobbies.com/istar.asp?a=6&id=TAM57736!1001
http://www.ultimatehobbies.com/istar.asp?a=6&id=TAM58211!1001
http://www.ultimatehobbies.com/istar.asp?a=6&id=TAM58295!1001
http://www.ultimatehobbies.com/istar.asp?a=6&id=TAM58368!1006
Spend over $100 and get free shipping
http://www.ultimatehobbies.com/istar.asp?a=6&id=TAM57744!1006
http://www.ultimatehobbies.com/istar.asp?a=6&id=TAM57736!1001
http://www.ultimatehobbies.com/istar.asp?a=6&id=TAM58211!1001
http://www.ultimatehobbies.com/istar.asp?a=6&id=TAM58295!1001
http://www.ultimatehobbies.com/istar.asp?a=6&id=TAM58368!1006
Spend over $100 and get free shipping
10-03-2008, 09:20 AM
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RE: Tamiya Mini Coopers - what is the difference?
ORIGINAL: thaphillips
Here is the diffrence.
M03 - Is the shortest version of the 3 chassises. It can run bodies like the old mini style body. It also has a largest number or bodies available. This is the most popular version of the Tamiya Mini in the Asian region and Australia. Importing the bodies can get expensive at around $40 to $50 a shell after shipping. The M03 also shares the same front knuckles and C hubs at the TT01. This kits comes with a Mechanical Speed Control. You will want to buy an ESC. This car also comes with the softest rims. You should go ahead and order some diffrent rims, because you will break these. This kit does not include ball bearings.This is often the least expensive version.
M03M - This kits is also know as the Suzuki Swift kit. It is widely considered to be the best "value" Tamiya Mini kits available. It adds a small spacer to the chassis to make it slightly longer than the M03. It uses a diffrent set of front knuckles and c-hubs than the M03. Finding the front kunckles and C hubs is a bit more difficult as they are not the same parts as the TT01. Often times you must resort to ordering these parts from Asia. This kit does come with an electronic ESC. One benefit of the M03m is that it comes with a rear upright with a slight toe in of about 2 degrees. This is very beneficial as it makes the car more stable. This piece can be purchased seperatley and is very inexpensive. The M03M offers the least choice of body selections. The M03M also offers the most durable rims from Tamiya (the 11 spoke). This kit includes ball bearings for the wheels, but not the gear box.
M03L - Is the longest verson of the Tamiya Mini's. It can also run most M04 bodies. The M03L also shares the same front knuckles and c-hubs as the TT01. The reason I keep reffering to these parts is because these parts will break quite often. The TT01's are a popular car, and it makes finding replacement parts easier. This way you aren't ordering $5 parts from Japan and paying $8 in shipping. The M03L comes with an electronic speed control. This kits does not include ball bearings. The rims in this kit are in the middle of the durability range.
M03R - Is the "Race" version of the Mini. It comes with a full set of ball bearings, oil shocks (these are brittle and will be broken), 11 spoke rims, a metal heat sink (bad design, does not work), aluminum knuckles, and aluminum rear uprights with about 1.5 degree tow in.. No speed controlled is included with this kit. This version is a more for show than race. The extra money doesn't buy anymore performance. This version includes all 3 spacers and can be ran as a M03, M03M, and M03L. It does not include a body.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _____________
Here is my advise
Choose the body you like better between the M03 and the M03L.
Buy the Toe-In Rear Upright (part 53345) and also get a full set of ball bearings.
If you buy the M03 also purchase a ESC and a set of 11 spoke rims.
Your last upgrade should be the Super Mini Shocks (part 50746) and the "Tuned Spring Short" (parts 53630, 53631, 53632, 53633)
Do not buy:
Manta Ray Diff - The planetary diff works just fine, but if you must have a ball diff get the TA03 diff (part 53267). The Manta Ray doesn't work well.
The heat sink motor mount - it doesn't work.
Expensive Metal Shocks - you can, but you will not see a big performance diffrence if any.
3 Racing Aluminum Knuckles - They are soft and the bend easier than the stock plastic ones. If you must have some get Top Cad or Tamiya. Be sure to buy the right ones as the M03M will not fit a M03 and vice versa.
Any lightweight parts as this car runs better with more weight. Infact if you run lipo, you will need to add weight.
Set Up
Ride and RP have the best tires available IMHO.
Put softer tires on the back than the front.
Also user softer springs on the back and harder springs on the front.
Here is the diffrence.
M03 - Is the shortest version of the 3 chassises. It can run bodies like the old mini style body. It also has a largest number or bodies available. This is the most popular version of the Tamiya Mini in the Asian region and Australia. Importing the bodies can get expensive at around $40 to $50 a shell after shipping. The M03 also shares the same front knuckles and C hubs at the TT01. This kits comes with a Mechanical Speed Control. You will want to buy an ESC. This car also comes with the softest rims. You should go ahead and order some diffrent rims, because you will break these. This kit does not include ball bearings.This is often the least expensive version.
M03M - This kits is also know as the Suzuki Swift kit. It is widely considered to be the best "value" Tamiya Mini kits available. It adds a small spacer to the chassis to make it slightly longer than the M03. It uses a diffrent set of front knuckles and c-hubs than the M03. Finding the front kunckles and C hubs is a bit more difficult as they are not the same parts as the TT01. Often times you must resort to ordering these parts from Asia. This kit does come with an electronic ESC. One benefit of the M03m is that it comes with a rear upright with a slight toe in of about 2 degrees. This is very beneficial as it makes the car more stable. This piece can be purchased seperatley and is very inexpensive. The M03M offers the least choice of body selections. The M03M also offers the most durable rims from Tamiya (the 11 spoke). This kit includes ball bearings for the wheels, but not the gear box.
M03L - Is the longest verson of the Tamiya Mini's. It can also run most M04 bodies. The M03L also shares the same front knuckles and c-hubs as the TT01. The reason I keep reffering to these parts is because these parts will break quite often. The TT01's are a popular car, and it makes finding replacement parts easier. This way you aren't ordering $5 parts from Japan and paying $8 in shipping. The M03L comes with an electronic speed control. This kits does not include ball bearings. The rims in this kit are in the middle of the durability range.
M03R - Is the "Race" version of the Mini. It comes with a full set of ball bearings, oil shocks (these are brittle and will be broken), 11 spoke rims, a metal heat sink (bad design, does not work), aluminum knuckles, and aluminum rear uprights with about 1.5 degree tow in.. No speed controlled is included with this kit. This version is a more for show than race. The extra money doesn't buy anymore performance. This version includes all 3 spacers and can be ran as a M03, M03M, and M03L. It does not include a body.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _____________
Here is my advise
Choose the body you like better between the M03 and the M03L.
Buy the Toe-In Rear Upright (part 53345) and also get a full set of ball bearings.
If you buy the M03 also purchase a ESC and a set of 11 spoke rims.
Your last upgrade should be the Super Mini Shocks (part 50746) and the "Tuned Spring Short" (parts 53630, 53631, 53632, 53633)
Do not buy:
Manta Ray Diff - The planetary diff works just fine, but if you must have a ball diff get the TA03 diff (part 53267). The Manta Ray doesn't work well.
The heat sink motor mount - it doesn't work.
Expensive Metal Shocks - you can, but you will not see a big performance diffrence if any.
3 Racing Aluminum Knuckles - They are soft and the bend easier than the stock plastic ones. If you must have some get Top Cad or Tamiya. Be sure to buy the right ones as the M03M will not fit a M03 and vice versa.
Any lightweight parts as this car runs better with more weight. Infact if you run lipo, you will need to add weight.
Set Up
Ride and RP have the best tires available IMHO.
Put softer tires on the back than the front.
Also user softer springs on the back and harder springs on the front.
10-08-2008, 07:57 PM
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RE: Tamiya Mini Coopers - what is the difference?
alright, so I finally got an email back from the guy and here's what he said:
"We operate using Tamyia's TCS rules which allow any M-03 or M-04 chassis and any Tamyia only hop ups. The class is limited to a 4200 mah battery or less and the heats a 5 minutes long."
What's my best bet to be competitive (besides being a good driver)? I'm not even familiar with the m-04 chassis. Kit, or RTR from Ultimate? Thanks in advance....
"We operate using Tamyia's TCS rules which allow any M-03 or M-04 chassis and any Tamyia only hop ups. The class is limited to a 4200 mah battery or less and the heats a 5 minutes long."
What's my best bet to be competitive (besides being a good driver)? I'm not even familiar with the m-04 chassis. Kit, or RTR from Ultimate? Thanks in advance....
10-09-2008, 12:34 AM
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RE: Tamiya Mini Coopers - what is the difference?
The M-04 is horrible for racing. TCS rules pretty much mean you can not modify the vehicle in any way shape or form. You are going to be running the stock motors that came with the kit. They are cheap, but very easy to "modify". Read up about "tuning silver cans".
Personally I would get the M03L if I could do it all over again. The only real advantage you will get is to buy a good ESC. If you buy any hop ups they have to be Tamiya (twice as many $$). The other sorry thing means you will also have to buy Tamiya tires.
Check out
<link removed>
Edit: Linking to competing sites in this manner is not allowed per [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_377662/tm.htm]RCU Community Rules[/link]
Personally I would get the M03L if I could do it all over again. The only real advantage you will get is to buy a good ESC. If you buy any hop ups they have to be Tamiya (twice as many $$). The other sorry thing means you will also have to buy Tamiya tires.
Check out
<link removed>
Edit: Linking to competing sites in this manner is not allowed per [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_377662/tm.htm]RCU Community Rules[/link]
10-09-2008, 06:56 AM
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RE: Tamiya Mini Coopers - what is the difference?
The Manta Ray diff will work just fine if you replace the thrust bearing set with a 5x11 bb. I've done this with my son's TA-02 TC.(front and rear) Don
03-10-2009, 06:36 AM
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RE: Tamiya Mini Coopers - what is the difference?
ORIGINAL: thaphillips
Here is the diffrence.
M03 - Is the shortest version of the 3 chassises. It can run bodies like the old mini style body. It also has a largest number or bodies available. This is the most popular version of the Tamiya Mini in the Asian region and Australia. Importing the bodies can get expensive at around $40 to $50 a shell after shipping. The M03 also shares the same front knuckles and C hubs at the TL01. This kits comes with a Mechanical Speed Control. You will want to buy an ESC. This car also comes with the softest rims. You should go ahead and order some diffrent rims, because you will break these. This kit does not include ball bearings.This is often the least expensive version.
M03M - This kits is also know as the Suzuki Swift kit. It is widely considered to be the best "value" Tamiya Mini kits available. It adds a small spacer to the chassis to make it slightly longer than the M03. It uses a diffrent set of front knuckles and c-hubs than the M03. Finding the front kunckles and C hubs is a bit more difficult as they are not the same parts as the TL01. Often times you must resort to ordering these parts from Asia. This kit does come with an electronic ESC. One benefit of the M03m is that it comes with a rear upright with a slight toe in of about 2 degrees. This is very beneficial as it makes the car more stable. This piece can be purchased seperatley and is very inexpensive. The M03M offers the least choice of body selections. The M03M also offers the most durable rims from Tamiya (the 11 spoke). This kit includes ball bearings for the wheels, but not the gear box.
M03L - Is the longest verson of the Tamiya Mini's. It can also run most M04 bodies. The M03L also shares the same front knuckles and c-hubs as the TL01. The reason I keep reffering to these parts is because these parts will break quite often. The TL01's are a popular car, and it makes finding replacement parts easier. This way you aren't ordering $5 parts from Japan and paying $8 in shipping. The M03L comes with an electronic speed control. This kits does not include ball bearings. The rims in this kit are in the middle of the durability range.
M03R - Is the "Race" version of the Mini. It comes with a full set of ball bearings, oil shocks (these are brittle and will be broken), 11 spoke rims, a metal heat sink (bad design, does not work), aluminum knuckles, and aluminum rear uprights with about 1.5 degree tow in.. No speed controlled is included with this kit. This version is a more for show than race. The extra money doesn't buy anymore performance. This version includes all 3 spacers and can be ran as a M03, M03M, and M03L. It does not include a body.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _____________
Here is my advise
Choose the body you like better between the M03 and the M03L.
Buy the Toe-In Rear Upright (part 53345) and also get a full set of ball bearings.
If you buy the M03 also purchase a ESC and a set of 11 spoke rims.
Your last upgrade should be the Super Mini Shocks (part 50746) and the "Tuned Spring Short" (parts 53630, 53631, 53632, 53633)
Do not buy:
Manta Ray Diff - The planetary diff works just fine, but if you must have a ball diff get the TA03 diff (part 53267). The Manta Ray doesn't work well.
The heat sink motor mount - it doesn't work.
Expensive Metal Shocks - you can, but you will not see a big performance diffrence if any.
3 Racing Aluminum Knuckles - They are soft and the bend easier than the stock plastic ones. If you must have some get Top Cad or Tamiya. Be sure to buy the right ones as the M03M will not fit a M03 and vice versa.
Any lightweight parts as this car runs better with more weight. Infact if you run lipo, you will need to add weight.
Set Up
Ride and RP have the best tires available IMHO.
Put softer tires on the back than the front.
Also user softer springs on the back and harder springs on the front.
Here is the diffrence.
M03 - Is the shortest version of the 3 chassises. It can run bodies like the old mini style body. It also has a largest number or bodies available. This is the most popular version of the Tamiya Mini in the Asian region and Australia. Importing the bodies can get expensive at around $40 to $50 a shell after shipping. The M03 also shares the same front knuckles and C hubs at the TL01. This kits comes with a Mechanical Speed Control. You will want to buy an ESC. This car also comes with the softest rims. You should go ahead and order some diffrent rims, because you will break these. This kit does not include ball bearings.This is often the least expensive version.
M03M - This kits is also know as the Suzuki Swift kit. It is widely considered to be the best "value" Tamiya Mini kits available. It adds a small spacer to the chassis to make it slightly longer than the M03. It uses a diffrent set of front knuckles and c-hubs than the M03. Finding the front kunckles and C hubs is a bit more difficult as they are not the same parts as the TL01. Often times you must resort to ordering these parts from Asia. This kit does come with an electronic ESC. One benefit of the M03m is that it comes with a rear upright with a slight toe in of about 2 degrees. This is very beneficial as it makes the car more stable. This piece can be purchased seperatley and is very inexpensive. The M03M offers the least choice of body selections. The M03M also offers the most durable rims from Tamiya (the 11 spoke). This kit includes ball bearings for the wheels, but not the gear box.
M03L - Is the longest verson of the Tamiya Mini's. It can also run most M04 bodies. The M03L also shares the same front knuckles and c-hubs as the TL01. The reason I keep reffering to these parts is because these parts will break quite often. The TL01's are a popular car, and it makes finding replacement parts easier. This way you aren't ordering $5 parts from Japan and paying $8 in shipping. The M03L comes with an electronic speed control. This kits does not include ball bearings. The rims in this kit are in the middle of the durability range.
M03R - Is the "Race" version of the Mini. It comes with a full set of ball bearings, oil shocks (these are brittle and will be broken), 11 spoke rims, a metal heat sink (bad design, does not work), aluminum knuckles, and aluminum rear uprights with about 1.5 degree tow in.. No speed controlled is included with this kit. This version is a more for show than race. The extra money doesn't buy anymore performance. This version includes all 3 spacers and can be ran as a M03, M03M, and M03L. It does not include a body.
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Here is my advise
Choose the body you like better between the M03 and the M03L.
Buy the Toe-In Rear Upright (part 53345) and also get a full set of ball bearings.
If you buy the M03 also purchase a ESC and a set of 11 spoke rims.
Your last upgrade should be the Super Mini Shocks (part 50746) and the "Tuned Spring Short" (parts 53630, 53631, 53632, 53633)
Do not buy:
Manta Ray Diff - The planetary diff works just fine, but if you must have a ball diff get the TA03 diff (part 53267). The Manta Ray doesn't work well.
The heat sink motor mount - it doesn't work.
Expensive Metal Shocks - you can, but you will not see a big performance diffrence if any.
3 Racing Aluminum Knuckles - They are soft and the bend easier than the stock plastic ones. If you must have some get Top Cad or Tamiya. Be sure to buy the right ones as the M03M will not fit a M03 and vice versa.
Any lightweight parts as this car runs better with more weight. Infact if you run lipo, you will need to add weight.
Set Up
Ride and RP have the best tires available IMHO.
Put softer tires on the back than the front.
Also user softer springs on the back and harder springs on the front.
One quick query...is the MO3L a different chassis or does it have a spacer to give the longer wheelbase? If it does have a spacer can this be removed and MO3 bodies fitted ?
D'oh just seen your comment about the M03-R having all the spacers..... I assume an M03L kit can have the spacer removed. M03L it is then.
I must admit to liking the Alfa Guilia M04 body and some of the aftermarket M03 Mini and Fiat 500 bodies.
Thanks in advance...
03-12-2009, 08:09 PM
#19
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RE: Tamiya Mini Coopers - what is the difference?
Most of your questions are answered [link=http://www.rc-mini.net/joomla/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=89&Itemid=113]HERE[/link] and down the bottom of the page [link=http://www.rc-mini.net/joomla/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=44&Itemid=60]HERE.[/link]
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http://www.rc-mini.net
[size=2]Just minis, only minis.
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http://www.rc-mini.net
[size=2]Just minis, only minis.
03-14-2009, 05:23 AM
#20
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RE: Tamiya Mini Coopers - what is the difference?
thaphillips
WELL Today I purchased a MO3-L the front tl-o1 steering knuckles ali's DO NOT FIT they are some 4mm to big NOW I'am PIZZED ( thay are yeahracing made)
Any clues
Cheer's CrocEnd
WELL Today I purchased a MO3-L the front tl-o1 steering knuckles ali's DO NOT FIT they are some 4mm to big NOW I'am PIZZED ( thay are yeahracing made)
Any clues
Cheer's CrocEnd
03-14-2009, 04:53 PM
#21
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RE: Tamiya Mini Coopers - what is the difference?
Which M03L did you buy?
If it's the 2006 Mini Cooper then it has the later model M03M front end - which is completely different. And doesn't need replacement knuckles as the newer ones are much stronger anyway.
http://www.rc-mini.net
[size=2]Just minis, only minis.
If it's the 2006 Mini Cooper then it has the later model M03M front end - which is completely different. And doesn't need replacement knuckles as the newer ones are much stronger anyway.
http://www.rc-mini.net
[size=2]Just minis, only minis.
