Official HPI E-10 Thread
11-27-2008, 11:23 PM
#27
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RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread
ORIGINAL: agor94
ok i just got a new RX-7 E-10 drift car and i want to know what the cheapest way to transform it to a touring model.
ok i just got a new RX-7 E-10 drift car and i want to know what the cheapest way to transform it to a touring model.
I have the Aston Martin DB9 shell, which I will probably try on the E10.
But also have a HBXrival Post 5, which has a Lancer body shell and does look more like a Touring Car.
Have a look around for 1/10th body shells.
Edit:
What tyres have you got on the drift?
Carson do some very cheap, wheel and tyre combo's.
They come pre-glued.
11-27-2008, 11:35 PM
#28
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RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread
First if you look in your manual it shows you how to convert it to a touring car. Its really easy, move the motor and everything like it says , and get yourself some touring wheels . If you look at www.hpiracing.com and do a e10 search you can see I believe they have pictures of the two. You really dont need to change bodies just use what you have . Hope this helps . Btw I just got a hpi e10 Lamborghini and it already came with full bearing . Its their new upgrade so you dont need to put bearing in .
11-29-2008, 03:57 AM
#29
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RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread
ORIGINAL: drewpyfz6
Got a questions for people that have had the E10 a while.
While having a first drive outside (the weather has been poor).
I noticed the car grounds a lot on my flagged drive.
I lifted the body up, as high as the pegs adjust.
But still seemed to get some scape...
Noticed its marking the underside of the chassis as well.
Anyway, I have also noticed the wheels seem to wobble a little.
I thought at first the wheel screws may have been loose, but they are not.
I can hold a wheel and it moves a couple of mm. After checking, all the wheels do this, and it seems to be the round block the wheels are fastened to? Not sure what its called, but the drive part goes through it. May be a knuckle?
Are they supposed to be a little loose and wobbly?
I am fairly new to this hobby, so still learning.
None of my other RC vehicles are like this.
Many thanks in advance,
Drew
Got a questions for people that have had the E10 a while.
While having a first drive outside (the weather has been poor).
I noticed the car grounds a lot on my flagged drive.
I lifted the body up, as high as the pegs adjust.
But still seemed to get some scape...
Noticed its marking the underside of the chassis as well.
Anyway, I have also noticed the wheels seem to wobble a little.
I thought at first the wheel screws may have been loose, but they are not.
I can hold a wheel and it moves a couple of mm. After checking, all the wheels do this, and it seems to be the round block the wheels are fastened to? Not sure what its called, but the drive part goes through it. May be a knuckle?
Are they supposed to be a little loose and wobbly?
I am fairly new to this hobby, so still learning.
None of my other RC vehicles are like this.
Many thanks in advance,
Drew
also i played around with mine today & i checked the wheels for woobling thay seem fine, but i did notice the steering slop makes them wooble, there should be no wooble from the wheel to the steering knuckle, but there is wooble from the knuckles to the steering swing arms, on the pic below, the red arrows are where i found movement & the parts with the circle around them i found them to have twisting movement in them, but Atomic hobbies do sell some alloy swing arms the will reduce this alot, & im currently devoliping some alloy turnbuckles that will replace where the red outer arrows are, this will also reduce the steering slop/wooble & allow for toe in/out adjustments, so keep an eye out for these parts
11-29-2008, 04:13 AM
#30
Thread Starter
RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread
ORIGINAL: agor94
ok i just got a new RX-7 E-10 drift car and i want to know what the cheapest way to transform it to a touring model.
ok i just got a new RX-7 E-10 drift car and i want to know what the cheapest way to transform it to a touring model.
well it is a touring car, im shure u have noticed is comes with a few spare parts,(gear cover) that will allow u to move the motor from the rear to the front, this means u change the weight ballance depending on ur driving style, just like a race car some are mid mount, rear mount & some are front mount engines. so to turn it into a touring car use the supplyed non-drift rubber wheels, then try the motor in the front then try it in the rear, see whats works best for ur style, (ive also got a 1/10 touring nitro car all i do when i want to drift it is put drift wheels on it) as for ur body its fine (the RX7 was a well knowen race car before people started drifting in it) use the rear wing for max down force & it should be a great touring car, there is no diffrences in the drift & touring car bodys, only really the paint jobs & stickers, i hope this help
ORIGINAL: djr01974
Btw I just got a hpi e10 Lamborghini and it already came with full bearing . Its their new upgrade so you dont need to put bearing in .
Btw I just got a hpi e10 Lamborghini and it already came with full bearing . Its their new upgrade so you dont need to put bearing in .
11-29-2008, 06:15 AM
#31
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RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread
ORIGINAL: phmaximus
i would reccomend getting the upgraded shocks i mentioned on the 1st page, u can make them longer witch makes the car higher,
also i played around with mine today & i checked the wheels for woobling thay seem fine, but i did notice the steering slop makes them wooble, there should be no wooble from the wheel to the steering knuckle, but there is wooble from the knuckles to the steering swing arms, on the pic below, the red arrows are where i found movement & the parts with the circle around them i found them to have twisting movement in them, but Atomic hobbies do sell some alloy swing arms the will reduce this alot, & im currently devoliping some alloy turnbuckles that will replace where the red outer arrows are, this will also reduce the steering slop/wooble & allow for toe in/out adjustments, so keep an eye out for these parts
i would reccomend getting the upgraded shocks i mentioned on the 1st page, u can make them longer witch makes the car higher,
also i played around with mine today & i checked the wheels for woobling thay seem fine, but i did notice the steering slop makes them wooble, there should be no wooble from the wheel to the steering knuckle, but there is wooble from the knuckles to the steering swing arms, on the pic below, the red arrows are where i found movement & the parts with the circle around them i found them to have twisting movement in them, but Atomic hobbies do sell some alloy swing arms the will reduce this alot, & im currently devoliping some alloy turnbuckles that will replace where the red outer arrows are, this will also reduce the steering slop/wooble & allow for toe in/out adjustments, so keep an eye out for these parts
If you hold a wheels they can be wobbled, as if the wheel nuts are loose, but they aren't, have checked them.
It seems to be where the drive shaft goes in the 'wheel holder'? see picture....
All the wheels seem to be the same?
11-30-2008, 02:28 AM
#32
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RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread
hummmmm.... ive got ballbearings & the alloy cv drive shafts fitted on mine maby its a better fit with them? maby try getting a bearing kit & see if that helps, thay might hold the shafts better. but then againe it could be the disc's not seating correctly on the stock drive shafts shafts. hummmm mistery, oh hows, not really related but i had one of the front wheel retaining screws come loose & it broke off the tabs of the back of the disc's, so it might pay to get the alloy shafts so the wheel screws can be locked on with thread lock.
11-30-2008, 01:35 PM
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RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread
Here is my e10 . As you can See I removed the cheap radio and put in a nice fm radio and I also removed the plastic mount that everything was mounted on . I installed the esc with sticky tape , I used tamiya servo holders to secure the steering servo and I used sticky tape to mount the receiver . I also installed a traxxas connector.
11-30-2008, 10:11 PM
#34
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RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread
ORIGINAL: drewpyfz6
Thanks for the reply, its not really related to the steering or shocks I dont think?
If you hold a wheels they can be wobbled, as if the wheel nuts are loose, but they aren't, have checked them.
It seems to be where the drive shaft goes in the 'wheel holder'? see picture....
All the wheels seem to be the same?
ORIGINAL: phmaximus
i would reccomend getting the upgraded shocks i mentioned on the 1st page, u can make them longer witch makes the car higher,
also i played around with mine today & i checked the wheels for woobling thay seem fine, but i did notice the steering slop makes them wooble, there should be no wooble from the wheel to the steering knuckle, but there is wooble from the knuckles to the steering swing arms, on the pic below, the red arrows are where i found movement & the parts with the circle around them i found them to have twisting movement in them, but Atomic hobbies do sell some alloy swing arms the will reduce this alot, & im currently devoliping some alloy turnbuckles that will replace where the red outer arrows are, this will also reduce the steering slop/wooble & allow for toe in/out adjustments, so keep an eye out for these parts
i would reccomend getting the upgraded shocks i mentioned on the 1st page, u can make them longer witch makes the car higher,
also i played around with mine today & i checked the wheels for woobling thay seem fine, but i did notice the steering slop makes them wooble, there should be no wooble from the wheel to the steering knuckle, but there is wooble from the knuckles to the steering swing arms, on the pic below, the red arrows are where i found movement & the parts with the circle around them i found them to have twisting movement in them, but Atomic hobbies do sell some alloy swing arms the will reduce this alot, & im currently devoliping some alloy turnbuckles that will replace where the red outer arrows are, this will also reduce the steering slop/wooble & allow for toe in/out adjustments, so keep an eye out for these parts
If you hold a wheels they can be wobbled, as if the wheel nuts are loose, but they aren't, have checked them.
It seems to be where the drive shaft goes in the 'wheel holder'? see picture....
All the wheels seem to be the same?
Mine stock e10 also does this. I think like phmaximus mentioned, that the alloy shafts/cvs would improve it. Ive run mine for a little while now as is and it still drifts well, so im not sure it matters atm.
12-04-2008, 04:04 AM
#36
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RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread
UPDATE
ive replaced some of the screws with alloy ones thay are heaps lighter ive ordered some more & will post pics & the weight diffrences soon
ive replaced some of the screws with alloy ones thay are heaps lighter ive ordered some more & will post pics & the weight diffrences soon
12-31-2008, 01:42 PM
#38
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RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread
i will sound very stupid for this, but i honestly dont know.
when u all refer to bushings and bearings, where do those go? with the wheels or with the drive?
when u all refer to bushings and bearings, where do those go? with the wheels or with the drive?
12-31-2008, 03:42 PM
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RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread
Yeah tower has a complete set for the entire car for 30 bucks. Also if u just got it pull the wheels and check Hpi upgraded to bearings the only bearing you will need is the diffs.
01-01-2009, 06:58 PM
#45
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RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread
ive reaplaced all the bushes with bearings, this includes the 4 in each diff, & the 8 wheel onesi think thats right cant rember with out taking it appart, thay seem to be great. ive just orered the atomic alloy steering arms, cant wait
01-08-2009, 04:03 PM
#46
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RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread
hey new guy here ...... i just got my first e10 drift car.
And the only thing i have done to it so far is a aluminum drive shaft.
But want to do plenty more to it.
the one thing that i dont like about it is......
that the battery life is not that long
Is there any way that i can make the battery last a little bit longer???????
the battery only lasts me about 30 min.s at best!!
please help!
And the only thing i have done to it so far is a aluminum drive shaft.
But want to do plenty more to it.
the one thing that i dont like about it is......
that the battery life is not that long
Is there any way that i can make the battery last a little bit longer???????
the battery only lasts me about 30 min.s at best!!
please help!
01-16-2009, 12:06 AM
#48
Thread Starter
RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread
30min that good, do u know how manny mAh it is??? I would reccomend getting a battery over 3300mAh & also a IMAX b5 charger u can change the rate of charge i can charge my nimh 3300mAh in under 2 hours & if u have 2 of them it makes it more fun, im currently using a 3000mAh 7.4v Lipo with Novak Lipo Cut off, works sweet for me.
yay my atomic steering support arms arrived the other day, ive fitted them & fitted the rest of the alloy screws, looks kinda cool
just waiting on some purple turnbuckles & ballends so i can replace the steering arms & adjust the tow
yay my atomic steering support arms arrived the other day, ive fitted them & fitted the rest of the alloy screws, looks kinda cool
just waiting on some purple turnbuckles & ballends so i can replace the steering arms & adjust the tow
01-18-2009, 02:16 PM
#49
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RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread
i hate it when people give a one line negative post like that... i dont think the e-10 is the best, but im not gonna diss it. besides, who cares what i say right?
