phmaximus

hey bud good to see ya back into it, I got the plate from ebay australia, but i dont think the guy makes them anymore.
ive been tempted to make some copys of it, hummmmm one day

petere001

I think i might have to get a small sheet of alu and see if i can cut the shape out and "attempt" to make it myself then. Could be a handy thing to have as the UK's roads aint exactly the smoothest...

phmaximus

nar good idear, i found the plate saves the chassis from cracking in a big crash, best upgrade ever

ej257lvr

ok i need some advice... i have an e10 with the stock pinion and plastic spur gear.

the stock spur gear wears out setting it perfectly to the factory specs on the motor mount for a 22 tooth pinion.

i found a metal spur gear made by hot racing http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=62101

i know i need to get an new pinion to use that spur gear because its 48 pitch.

the factory spur gear has 65 teeth and the hot racing spur gear has 78 teeth.

so how many teeth should i go with on the new pinion?

im not looking for it to have a high top speed because im limited on space at the moment,actually the acceleration in stock form is fine for the space i have so i just need opinions on what pinion used with the above mentioned spur gear would be similar. thanks.

junki3

Hi E10ers,

Been awhile since I did anything to my E10. But I recieved my universals yesterday and decided to install them and give her a run.
Unfortunatley I couldn`t find some of the parts although I did install the one way diff and the lock diff.

Maximus is the one way front that bad??? Nice alloys Arms!

phmaximus

hey ej257lvr, dont ever trust the marking on the mount, that are very very wrong.
the idear of the gear mesh is to get it as tight as possible with out draging/slowing the car or making it sound like a coffee grinder.

easyest way is...
loosen the top part only of the mount
cut a thin strip of printer paper
feed it between the spur & pinion gear and sometimes it help to turn the gears
them push the motor over to squish the paper into the gears, hold it so its just tight
tighten the mount back up & check for excessive gear noise.

personally i set mine by ear, so thee is a very slight gear noise, it works fo me

Ive never had to replace my spur gear, even with a 3900kv brushless motor on 11.1v....
the secret is get to know its noise, and allways check the mount before each run to make shure its tight

never had much luck with alloy gears, in 2 on my tamiya cars thay wore excessivly fast & filled the gear gease with alloy shavings
(like powder) making them wear even faster. all my r/c cars run plastic spur gears accept 1 nitro car but thay are very worn but still work. stick with the stock one

phmaximus

junki3, thats looks awesome!!! im a sucker for black cars

well the HPI one way diff looks good, & stronger than the tamiya ones, only thing i really dont like, is the diff does not drive in reverse.
hey it might work geat for you, everyones drift style is diffrent
keeps us updated, huuuuuummmmmmmmm... nearly tempted to try one too
like the idear of only rear brakes[:-]

phmaximus

oh forgot to mention,

I have found the alloy mounts still have a little bit of play, but the adjusting screw come loose very easly & the screw head is very easy to strip, recomend replacing it with a phillips head screw with locktight

im going to test a few spring washes rather than locktight

phmaximus

were did everyone go?

Hows this... the yeahracing rear lower arms now have the hole for the swaybar YAY

DRVNFAST

Hello Everyone. Kick ass thread!

I just got an E10 off CL for 100.00. It has....

The Good
Trinity Duo 13.5T Brushless with Novak GTB ESC.
Aluminum Drive Shaft
Aluminum motor mount
Locked diffs

The Bad
Wheels, tires,hubs/frakes (thats fake brakes), chassis and body are all a bit worn. It runs well, but that damn spur/pinion gear set up is loud!

So I went a bit ebay crazy this weekendand have a new chassis, T-drift tires, 10spoke wheels, aluminum hubs/frake rotors,half shafts, strut bars,YR steering kit. BMW 3series Drift body, LED lighting kit all on order.

After reading this thead it sounds like I need the HPI shocks and sway bar kit.

Pics to follow

Peace!

phmaximus

Dammmm nice score, what a bargain.

Try resetting the gear gap with the paper method, might get rid of some of the noise, Just rember to keep checkin the mount screws, thay have a tendency to come loose.

Sounds like the car has had a birthday, cant wait to see the pic's

Nice work

phmaximus

Update,

well ATM im trying to get a AE86 Levin alloy body made from a place that does rc crawler ones. that way it will show dammage & will scratch easly for that scale look

[link]http://www.aluminumrcbodies.com/index.htm[/link]

DRVNFAST

I cannot get the aluminum hub set from yeah racing to fit. they dont seat properly in the hub carrier. anyone have any suggestions?

DRVNFAST

Ok, I got the fronts to fit but the rear Yeah racing Aluminum Hubs do not fit!

somerenegade

Nice, those aluminum hubs look real sharp! Are the hubs in the rear too small or too big?

Aluminum bodies?? No way!?!

DRVNFAST

Too big, Ive tried with and without the supplied spacers and either wayI cannot get the hub flush to the bearing carrier, thus the frake rotor rubs the frake caliper.

phmaximus

nice, looks good. damm that thing looks new.

I decided against the hubs, mainly because thay are the same size whats with that?
if ya keen post some pics of how these hubs seat.

I emailed the guy about the alloy bodies & no luck he does not make them using a lexen templates anymore bugga.

DRVNFAST

You can see the hubs have the spacer "built in" to the hub.





Here you see stock without spacer, stock with spacer and then the YR hub. No timeto rip the machine apart to show you exactly how it doesnt fit. I think I read earlier in this thread of another poster having problems with the HPI universal shaft. Maybe the driveshaft is the problem? Maybe it only works with YR shafts?

DRVNFAST

Some more pics. LEDS to be installed soon.

phmaximus

with the hub carrier removed from the car does the hub fit inside the bearings??? & does it slide all the way in????
are the alloy dog bones the same lenght as the stock ones???????
Does the dog bone end cap fit in the slot on the hub??????????

somerenegade

Shoot that woulda been neat to see an aluminum body.

It could be the drive shafts. You say the diffs are locked.. how so? With an adaptor or locktite (something similar)? I can't get a good look at the rear driveshafts in your pics, but they don't seem like they are purple..

At the same time, maybe everything is just a tight fit?

Are you buying or making the LED setup? That is the next thing I want to do to my e10.

phmaximus

hey guys, if u are going to put lights, i highly reccomend getting a new body & fitting light buckets like on mine, looks wise its worth it.

also dont wast ya cash on the light kits thay are a bit of a rip... u can get bulk LED's from ebay for next to nothing. or even try ur local electrical store for the LED's & resistors.

If u need just post the voltage of ur power sorce (i used the reciver one) & the specs or the LED's and i can draw a wiring diagram for u including the specs on the resiostors.

If ya keen to put around US$60-$80 into it u can get a light kit with proper working, head lights/tail light, brake light, reverse light, turning lights & police lights that all work of the stock controller.

yeah those alloy bodies are great check this.... Thay even dent & scratch like a real car

DRVNFAST

Yes, very smoothly in fact.

Not using DogBones in back. Using the stock HPI Uni Shafts in back.

Its weird, they just don't fit the rear. Heres some pics

When I get it on, as shown. it sits like this and does not spin the shaft. When I put the wheel on it gees into position, barely. Spins the shaft, but is so tight against the frake caliper that it binds the whole rearend.


Heres whatit looks like stock


Heres the rearend. Not sure just how it is locked. Thats just what the dude i bought it form said.


The shafts


Rear diff removed



Even in stock config the plastic frake rotor rubs a tad on one side

somerenegade

Hmm, I can think of two possible solutions.

The first is if the caliper is the problem then you should shim it in some way or remove it. (I can understand not wanting to remove it as the frake calipers were THE selling point for me over the TT01.)

The second involves getting the Oni-Cam arm set from HPI. The arms are just a bit longer.. I think more than enough to fix your problem. Of course you could gamble and get some alloy arms but I can't say for certain that they will be longer. The Oni-Cam arms are long enough, I will post a pic. 

somerenegade

Here are someshots of the installed Oni-Cam arms versus the stock arm. You can see that the Oni-Cam arm is between a 1/16" and 1/8" longer than the stock arm. I think this may fix your problem.