Official HPI E-10 Thread
#751
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Location: Harleysville, PA
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You could work with a 260mm if the wheel well cut outs allow. I think the body I found is 260mm and it looks fine. Also the width of the body I used is 195mm and I an using some of the spacers that are in the kit to get the wheels flush with the body
Last edited by 860Crawler; 11-18-2014 at 09:06 PM.
#754
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Hi guys I'm new to the forum
ive had my e10 for about 6 years messed with it off one on.
now my kids are into it and I've started setting it up for them.
my question is I've upgraded the battery to a onyx 4200 nimh recently and now the motor runs very hot, hotter than it ever has. Have I used the wrong battery? I'm running all stock electronics with all yeah racing aluminum parts ( the kids like to hit things)
thanks for the help
ive had my e10 for about 6 years messed with it off one on.
now my kids are into it and I've started setting it up for them.
my question is I've upgraded the battery to a onyx 4200 nimh recently and now the motor runs very hot, hotter than it ever has. Have I used the wrong battery? I'm running all stock electronics with all yeah racing aluminum parts ( the kids like to hit things)
thanks for the help
#757

Hey everyone. I'm new to this site and I'd like to ask the community for some help.
At the start of this year I purchased a HPI E10 Drift car. I bought it as I was new to RC Drifting at the time (and yes I know there were better options) so I didn't want to fork out too much cash for something that I was just getting used to. Anyway to the point: recently when I'm trying to steer using full lock the servo seems to almost lose power and only turn to about half lock. Before this the servo made a strange buzzing noise so I bought a new servo (which means the servo isn't the problem here). The servo only 'gives up' as it were when I turn FULL lock left, yet if I steer slightly less than full lock it works fine. Should I buy a new transmitter to try and resolve the issue or is there something I'm missing which could be fixed? Any help / advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
At the start of this year I purchased a HPI E10 Drift car. I bought it as I was new to RC Drifting at the time (and yes I know there were better options) so I didn't want to fork out too much cash for something that I was just getting used to. Anyway to the point: recently when I'm trying to steer using full lock the servo seems to almost lose power and only turn to about half lock. Before this the servo made a strange buzzing noise so I bought a new servo (which means the servo isn't the problem here). The servo only 'gives up' as it were when I turn FULL lock left, yet if I steer slightly less than full lock it works fine. Should I buy a new transmitter to try and resolve the issue or is there something I'm missing which could be fixed? Any help / advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
#758

Id say before buying anything get someone or your local hobby store to let you use another tx/rx to see/eliminate if thats the problem( and I think it might be). Also upgrading to the alum links with bearings is nice.
#759


#760

I'm back again with another question about the HPI E10 Drift: I'm planning on buying the Locked Differential Set http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/11701/ and I'm wondering if I would need to also buy the Universal Drive Shaft Set http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/11702/ to go with it or would I be okay just using the stock drive shafts?
#762
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We are brand new to the RC world. My son was gift the HPI E10 Drift Fail Crew Nissan Skyline R34 GR-R for Christmas. Sadly it has already failed on him. We took a 5 hour return trip to the only NSW authorised repairer for HPI only to be given a 'fix' that hasn't fixed the problem. The front passenger side dog bone keeps falling out. We were given a length of rubber hose to put in there to help but the car started bumping around and the wheel was getting stuck on the body of the car. The dog bone once again fell out. Typically my husband is at work and i've a very sad child awaiting his return.
What exactly do we need to do to fix this? Feeling like I need to post it interstate where it was purchased from and ask for a refund! Surely this shouldn't be happening when the car has been driven for a maximum of 2.5 hours. Would the Yes branded aluminium dog bones correct this problem? My husband has considering heating the plastic dog bone slightly to stretch it out a little to make it fit better, we'd buy a replacement to try this on.
Appreciate your suggestions.
What exactly do we need to do to fix this? Feeling like I need to post it interstate where it was purchased from and ask for a refund! Surely this shouldn't be happening when the car has been driven for a maximum of 2.5 hours. Would the Yes branded aluminium dog bones correct this problem? My husband has considering heating the plastic dog bone slightly to stretch it out a little to make it fit better, we'd buy a replacement to try this on.
Appreciate your suggestions.
#763

Hi there schglobbi
I have never encountered your problem with the stock E10 dog bones, however I did upgrade to some purple aluminium versions to find that they could occasionally pop out due to the metal pin sliding out of the end of ones of the dog bones.
If you do upgrade to the aluminium ones, just beware of this and that you may need to apply some glue to keep them centred in the bone and stop them from falling out.
Hope this helps!
Cheers,
Toni
I have never encountered your problem with the stock E10 dog bones, however I did upgrade to some purple aluminium versions to find that they could occasionally pop out due to the metal pin sliding out of the end of ones of the dog bones.
If you do upgrade to the aluminium ones, just beware of this and that you may need to apply some glue to keep them centred in the bone and stop them from falling out.
Hope this helps!
Cheers,
Toni